Formulation and evaluation of multicomponent herbal peel off mask

ROLE OF INGREDIENTS

4.1 Activated Charcoal

Adsorbs dirt, oil, toxins

Cleans pores deeply

Used widely due to strong adsorption capacity .

4.2 Green Tea Powder

Rich in antioxidants (catechins)

Anti-aging and anti-inflammatory

Proven antioxidant activity in peel-off masks .

4.3 Pomegranate Extract

Antioxidant and anti-acne

Contains flavonoids and phenolics

Effective against Staphylococcus species.

PROCEDURE

Step 1: Preparation of the Polymer Base (Phase A)

1. Heat Distilled Water: Take the distilled water (62g) in a heat-resistant glass beaker and heat it to approximately 80°C.

2. Dissolve PVA: Slowly add the Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA) to the hot water while stirring continuously with a glass rod or mechanical stirrer. Maintain the temperature until the PVA is completely dissolved and the solution is clear and lump-free.

3. Hydrate Xanthan Gum: In a small separate container, pre-mix the Xanthan Gum with a little Glycerin (to prevent clumping) and add it to the PVA solution. Stir until a uniform, thickened base is formed.

Step 2: Addition of Plasticizers & Humectants (Phase B)

1. Cooling: Allow the mixture to cool down to about 40°C-45°C.

2. Add Humectants: Stir in the remaining Glycerin and Propylene Glycol. These ensure the mask doesn't become too brittle and is easy to peel off.

3. Preservation: Dissolve the Methyl and Propyl Parabens into the Isopropyl Alcohol and add this mixture to the base. (The alcohol also helps the mask dry faster on the face).

Step 3: Incorporation of Actives (Phase C)

1. Add Adsorbent: Slowly add the Activated Charcoal. Stir vigorously to ensure even dispersion so there are no black streaks or lumps.

2. Add Extracts: Incorporate the Pomegranate liquid extract and the Green Tea powder (or Honey).  Ensure the powder is finely sifted before adding to prevent grittiness.

Step 4: Neutralization and Final Mixing

1. pH Adjustment: Use Triethanolamine dropwise while stirring. Check the pH using a digital pH meter or indicator strips. Aim for a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 (skin-compatible).

2. Homogenization: Continue stirring for another 10-15 minutes to ensure the mask is completely homogeneous and smooth.

Step 5: Packaging

1. Let the mixture stand for a few hours to allow any trapped air bubbles to escape.

2. Transfer the finished 100g product into a clean, air-tight plastic tube or jar.

EVALUATION TEST

1. Organoleptic Evaluation

This is the initial sensory assessment of the physical characteristics.

Color: The mask should be a uniform, deep jet-black. Streaks indicate poor dispersion of the 2.50g of Activated Charcoal.

Odor: Check for any "chemical" smell from the Isopropyl Alcohol. It should be neutral or characteristic of the Pomegranate/Green Tea extracts.

Consistency: It should be a smooth, semi-solid gel. It must be thick enough to stay on the face but fluid enough to spread easily.

2. Physicochemical Analysis

PH Determination: Use a digital pH meter. The ideal range for a facial mask is pH 5.5 to 6.5. If the pH is too low, it may irritate the skin; if too high, it may feel "slimy" and won't dry correctly.

Viscosity: This measures the "flow." If the mask is too runny, the 1.00g of Xanthan Gum may need to be increased. If it's too thick to squeeze out of a tube, the water content is likely too low.

3. Functional (Performance) Testing

This is the most critical stage for a peel-off formulation.

Spreadability: Apply a small amount (approx. 1g) to a 5cm diameter circle on the forearm. It should spread uniformly without "rolling"  or clumping.

Drying Time: Monitor how long it takes for the film to become non-tacky.

Standard: 15-20 minutes.

Issue: if it takes > 30 mins, increase the Isopropyl Alcohol or decrease the Glycerin.

Peel-ability: Once dry, the mask is peeled from the edges.

Ideal: It should come off in a single, continuous sheet.

Failure: If it breaks into small flakes, you need more Propylene Glycol (Plasticizer). If it is too stick↓ hurts to remove, you may need more..A or less Honey.

The formulation was subjected to several physicochemical tests:

• Organoleptic Properties: The mask exhibited a smooth, uniform black texture with a glossy finish and a pleasant botanical odor.

• pH Determination: The digital pH meter recorded a value of 5.8, ensuring compatibility with the acid mantle of human skin (\bm{pH} range \bm{4.5–6.5}).

• Drying Time: A thin film applied to a glass slide dried completely within 18 minutes, meeting the commercial standard of 15–20 minutes.

• Peelability: The mask demonstrated high tensile strength, peeling away in a single, non-fragmented sheet.

4. Stability Testing

Accelerated Stability: Place a sample in a glass jar at 40°C with 75% relative humidity for 1-3 months.

Check for: Phase separation (water leaking out), mold growth (preservative failure), or "skinning" (the top layer drying out in the jar).

Centrifugation: Spin the mask at 3000 RPM for 30 minutes. If the charcoal settles at the bottom, the Xanthan Gum network isn't strong enough to suspend the particles.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The formulation showed good film formation and easy peelability

No irritation observed on skin

Provided deep cleansing and smooth texture

Antioxidant and antibacterial properties improved skin condition

CONCLUSION

The developed herbal peel-off mask containing pomegranate extract, activated charcoal, and green tea powder is effective, safe, and stable. It provides multiple benefits such as deep cleansing, anti-acne activity, and skin rejuvenation. This formulation can be used as a natural cosmetic product.

REFERENCES

1. Shukla P. et al., Formulation and Evaluation of Activated Charcoal Peel Off Mask, JPSR (2023)
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