A Safer Approach to Hair Care: Formulating Natural Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Alternatives

Nearly half of the population is affected by dandruff, a widespread scalp condition that can afflict people of any sex or ethnicity and frequently results in itching.[1, 3.]

Evidence suggests that keratinocytes play a pivotal role in dandruff development by expressing and producing immunological responses.  Most cases of dandruff can be remedied with the use of a specialised shampoo.[4 ]

Hair, which has long been connected to social distinction and beauty, contributes significantly to the overall attractiveness of the human body. There are countless examples from all artistic disciplines that demonstrate the unique importance that people from almost every era and society place on hair.[5]

 The goal of many hair care products is to clean the hair, alter its texture and colour, revive damaged hair, nourish it, and make it look healthy. 6

 People who deal with dandruff often find that it affects their social lives and self-esteem, necessitating emotional and physical support.  To wash hair, you can use shampoo, which is a mixture of soap and water or a cream.  Hair care products like shampoo, which often take the shape of a thick liquid, are used to wash the hair.  Herbal shampoo, like regular shampoo, is a hair and scalp wash that uses cosmetic ingredients derived from plants.  Herbal shampoos are a supposed substitute for synthetic hair wash, yet cosmetics are crafted from totally natural substances.7

 Hair care solutions are formulated with active ingredients that are known to protect, nourish, and cleanse the skin, therefore reducing the risk of skin damage.  Protecting plants from herbivores, animals, and fungus are just a few of the many biological functions performed by the many chemical compounds found in plants.

Dandruff is treated with moringa. The tree known as moringa is found in many tropical and subtropical nations. It is grown for commercial use in Mexico, South and Central America, Africa, and India. Moringa oliefera lam is a synonym. It is made from pods' immature seeds. Is a member of the Morigaceae family. Vitamins A, C, E, K, and B, minerals, amino acids, antioxidants, and saponins are all found in moringa. In addition to being edible, moringa has long been utilised as a traditional medical source. It is known as a "miracle vegetable" since all of its parts—pods, seeds, steam, and leaves—have been used to heal a variety of illnesses. Moringa oleifrera has been studied for a number of medicinal purposes, including anti-inflammatory, anti-dandruff, anti-cancer, anti-microbial, anti-diabetic, and antioxidant effects.[8, 9.]

Normal hair growth cycle

Hair grows about 10 centimetres annually. A hair follicle grows in three stages in a cyclical fashion.

Anagen

Hair length is determined by the growth phase, which can last anywhere from two to eight years.

Catagen

This phase, known as regression or transition, lasts roughly ten days. The hair enters this phase at the conclusion of the growth phase. The hair follicle separates from the dermal papilla and shrinks.

Telogen

This period, referred to as the resting phase, lasts roughly five to six weeks [Figure 1]. The transitional phase is followed by this one. Both the dermal papilla and the hair follicle stay in the resting phase. At the end of this phase, both of them unite, and fresh hair growth starts. The old hair is forced out by the new one, and the hair follicle resumes its growth phase.

Diagram1. Hair cycle [10]

Need for natural alternatives in hair:        

1. Hair Weathering

"Hair weathering" describes the gradual loss of hair's structural integrity due to physical or chemical damage, which in turn raises the probability of breakage.  Damage can occur due to a variety of causes, including improper hair care, cosmetic procedures, or environmental elements such prolonged exposure to UV light.  Hair fibres could be more structurally and chemically damaged by overly drastic cosmetic operations.  Bleaching, perming, relaxing, and straightening are chemical procedures that are known to severely damage hair strands.  On the other hand, hair loss can occur as a result of ineffective everyday hair care practices. Inadequate brushing or combing, as well as blow drying at very high temperatures, might cause physical harm. Weathering of hair is a gradual process of degradation that impairs the cortex's capacity to hold onto moisture and causes the hair shaft to lose the outer defence that the cuticles offer. This first causes a loss of softness and shine, but as the damage worsens, the hair may become weaker and less elastic, and ultimately lose its entire structural integrity, which can lead to breakage. Throughout its life, hair is continuously subjected to different types of weathering. Therefore, compared to newly created hair shafts, older hair will show more damage. Therefore, compared to the tips of long hair, the hair close to the scalp exhibits a more intact structure. We provide examples of hair samples that exhibit striking damage to the hair shaft over the length of the fibre. Close to the scalp, the hair possesses entire cuticles, and the overlapping scales completely envelop the hair shaft. The hair gets more damaged the farther it is from the scalp. The cortex of the fibre is visible due to the partial removal of some cuticles, and the surface seems rough. Because it was exposed to external insults for a longer period of time during its existence, the cuticle layers were completely removed, leaving no cuticles visible near the tip. The amount of damage might differ from one individual to another, depending on factors such as their daily care regimen and how exposed they are to weathering events.  Mechanical, chemical, thermal, or environmental stressors, or a mix of these, are the four main causes of hair fibre degradation.  While the severity of damage from any external assault is ultimately dependent on the victim's actions, chemical reactions are often more likely to cause degradation than environmental factors.

2. Mechanical Insults

The most frequent kind of damage is mechanical damage, which happens all the time when people comb their hair with things like plastic or wood combs or brushes.  Over time, the cuticle edges will peel off and finally disappear entirely due to the constant brushing on the same area, especially on the fiber's outside edges.  Haircuts, especially when done with the wrong tools, can also be considered mechanical insults.  Cutting using a razor instead of sharp or even dull scissors results in a less precise cut and an increased risk of cuticle tearing.

Shampoos are designed to keep hair clean and in good condition, but the act of washing itself can cause harm to the hair by bending the fibres and rubbing the hairs against one another, which can lead to distortion and abrasion/erosion. Furthermore, the strong cleansing properties of shampoos' anionic surfactants can aid in the breakdown of proteins and structural lipids.

3. Environmental Insult:

By absorbing and filtering UV rays, the pigment molecules—also known as melanin—found in hair shafts provide photo protection. The proteins are largely protected from radiation degradation by this filtering, but the pigments are bleached or destroyed, changing the hair's appearance.  Due to their higher radiation exposure and the fact that melanin is exclusively present in the cortex, cuticles are more prone to photodamage.  Damage to the ends occurs when the outer layers burst and separate as a consequence of amino acid changes caused by sun exposure, especially in the cuticles.  Furthermore, it causes the hair to dry out, become brittle, dull, and eventually have a harsh texture.  Photochemical degradation causes proteins to lose their structural integrity.  As a result of carbonyl groups reacting with amino groups both within and between structural units, disulphide bonds between structural units break and new bonds are generated.  Hair colour changes are produced by UVA radiation, whereas protein loss is mostly caused by UVB radiation, and this is true regardless of the hair type.  Even though the type of damage is only defined by the radiation's wavelength, the extent to which it manifests differs across hair types.

 The photostability of various hair types can be explained by differences in the kind and concentration of melanin.  Black hair seems to be more photostable than blond hair and provides better protection against UV light in the melanin-rich cortex, with only a small modification of fibre proteins following irradiation.  When comparing photodamage in the cuticles of black and light-brown hair, the lack of melanin at the fibre surface explains why both hair types show equivalent protein loss.  Colour changes, which are more apparent in lighter hair colours than in black, are also affected by the hair type.

4. Chemical Insults

Chemical straightening, bleaching, and colouring are examples of hair style techniques that can cause serious damage to hair, particularly if not carried out by qualified specialists. Chemical straightening, for instance, is a chemical process that has been used as a durable substitute for heat straightening. It is carried out using chemical relaxers that alter the hair's cysteine disulphide bonds, giving it a straight appearance. Weaker hair with lower tensile strength results from structural damage to the hair shaft caused by changes in keratin's connections in addition to the rearrangement of disulphide bonds.By oxidising the melanin pigments found in the cortex, bleaching is the process that makes hair lighter. The cuticles become more porous and disulphide bonds are broken as a result, which lowers their tensile strength and gives them a brittle appearance. Because oxidising melanin eliminates its photoprotective properties, bleached hair is more vulnerable to further UV damage. The colour of the hair fibres can be altered with permanent dyes. Their impact is based on oxidation events that take place inside the hair shaft, just like bleaching. Alkaline solutions, such as ammonia, are applied to the hair shaft to allow them to penetrate and break down the cuticle's protective layer, leaving the hair particularly vulnerable to further harm. When alkaline treatments are used, the 18-MEA layer is removed, which increases the hydrophilicity and friction of the hair. Hair becomes more fragile and loses its smooth appearance when this hydrophobic layer is lost.

5. Thermal Insults

It's normal practice to use blow dryers to dry hair. However, the hair shaft is harmed by frequent use. Blow-dried hair exhibits more damage than air-dried hair, which has a well-protected surface. As the temperature rises, more damage is done to the hair surface. The cuticle layer splits when the hair is blow-dried, resulting in concave scale edges. Blow-drying causes structural alterations that extend beyond the fibres' surface and take place in between the layers of inner cuticle. Heat has an effect on hair colour as well; after several shampoos and dryings, the colour becomes lighter. After only ten blow-drying cycles at 95 °C, these colour changes become apparent.11

ANTI-DANDRUFF:

pertaining to or characterising goods, methods, or components that stop, lessen, or get rid of dandruff, a common scalp ailment marked by the production of crusts, scales, or flakes as a result of excessive dead skin cell shedding.

Purpose and scope of the study:

Purpose:

1. Analyse the safety and effectiveness of anti-dandruff shampoos.
2. Examine various formulations and active components.
3. Examine the mechanisms of action against bacteria that cause dandruff.
4. Evaluate user compliance and satisfaction.
5. List any possible adverse effects and restrictions.

Scope:

1. Clinical studies: Test anti-dandruff shampoos on people.
2. Research antibacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities in vitro.
3.  Literature reviews: Examine previous studies on shampoos that prevent dandruff.
4. Formulation development: Develop fresh or enhanced formulas for anti-dandruff shampoos.
5. Quality control: Evaluate the stability of the product and the manufacturing procedures.

Advantages of anti-dandruff shampoo:

1. Effective dandruff management: Lessens scaling, flaking, and itching.
2. Reduces irritation of the scalp: Reduces redness and inflammation.
3. Stops fungal development: Stops the growth of fungus Malassezia, which is main cause of dandruff.
4. Promotes scalp health: Balances the pH of the scalp and lessens oiliness.
5. Easy to use: Easy to incorporate into regular hair care routine and convenient.
6. Range of choices: Comes in many forms (shampoo, conditioner, and scalp scrubs).
7. Reasonably priced: Typically, the cost is comparable to that of standard shampoos.

Disadvantages of anti-dandruff shampoo:

1. Dryness and irritation: Certain substances, such salicylic acid and sulphur, can cause the scalp to become dry or irritated.
2. Harm to hair: Excessive usage of harsh anti-dandruff shampoos might cause harm to hair.
3. Colour fade: Colour-treated hair may become less vibrant after using some anti-dandruff shampoos.
4. Build-up and residue: Product accumulation may result from excessive use.
5. Not appropriate for all hair types: It could not be mild enough or effective enough for damaged or sensitive hair.

6. Possible allergens: Certain substances, such as dyes and scents, may trigger allergic reactions.
7. Extended use: Extended use of a product may result in dependence. 12

Common side effects:

1. Itching or redness

2. Dryness or flakiness

3. Hair loss (rare)

4. Allergic reactions (rare)

Precautions:

1. Read labels and instructions carefully at all times.
2. Before utilising a new product, perform a patch test.
3. Use a moderate, soft solution first.
4. Refrain from using too many anti-dandruff products or combining them.
5. See a dermatologist if your hair loss or discomfort doesn't go away.

Hair Diseases

1. Dandruff
2. Hair Loss
3. Follicalitis
4. Scalp Ringworm
5. Head lice
6. Alopecia Areata
7. Female Baldness
8. Male Blandness 12

Dandruff:

Definition: Clusters of corneocytes with a high cohesive power generate dandruff, an itchy scalp ailment defined by flaky white to yellowish scales.  3.  During the most active period of the sebaceous glands, which typically occurs between puberty and middle age, dandruff tends to form 7.

Although it does not provide a serious health danger, dandruff is a skin condition that can lead to shame and a negative social reputation.13

Scaly scalps might appear messy and unclean. The victim might experience embarrassment and self-consciousness. Dandruff has an impact on confidence and self-worth. Dandruff itching also makes the person who has it feel quite embarrassed in public14. As a chronic, non-inflammatory scalp condition characterised by severe scaling of the scalp tissue, dandruff is one of the most common dermatological skin conditions 15.

Causes and symptoms of dandruff:

Causes:

Dandruff may be caused by the fungus Pityrosporum ovale, which grows naturally on scalp and other skin areas. This fungus usually does no harm. But as the weather, hormones, and stress vary, the scalp will create more oil, which will lead to the growth of the fungus P. ovale. Dandruff is a by-product of the fungal infection, which causes irritating skin cells and the gradual loss of hair follicles on the scalp.  The current consensus holds that the formation of lipases is the specific process via which dandruff develops. The Malassezia fungus produces oleic acid from sebum by means of these enzymes.  Oleic acid accelerates skin cell turnover in susceptible individuals by penetrating the outermost layer of skin, the epidermis.  Redness, irritability, and dandruff flakes are the subsequent symptoms.

Diagram 2. Causes of dandruff

Symptoms:

• Occurrence of fragments (scaling)
• The Burning of scalp
• Redness around scalp.

It is difficult to distinguish the spectrum of dandruff since it overlaps with seborrhoeic     dermatitis and a few other scaly disorders 10

Etiology of dandruff:

All of the recognised and documented causes of dandruff should be highlighted when talking about the condition and its aetiology. There are both microbial and non-microbial triggering factors. It is quite challenging to determine which of the several recognised causes—a single cause or mixes of numerous causes—contribute to the development of dandruff.

Dandruff is said to be brought on by exposure to the sun. It’s interesting to note that Malassezia is said to be killed by sunlight. Given these contradictory accounts, is dandruff distinct from Malassezia Throughout dandruff, many Malassezia cells have consistently been observed with copious scaling. It's hard to say whether the yeast cells are facilitated by the abundant scaling or if more yeast cells lead to more scaling.

A dry scalp is another factor that is linked to dandruff. Since Malassezia is a real lipophilic fungus, it's worth noting once more that seborrhoeic skin is known to exacerbate pityriasis versicolour and dandruff. It's unclear how the dry scalp skin makes Malassezia more likely to cause dandruff. According to the findings of Harding et al., dandruff is made easier when the stratum corneum has less ceramide 1 and more ceramide 6i and 6ii.  Enhanced dandruff, reduced barrier function, and elevated intracellular lipid levels in the stratum corneum of the scalp have all been documented.

Excessive shampooing and combing too often are two other non-specific reasons for dandruff. This argument has some validity because it is known that both excessive shampooing and frequent combing damage the scalp stratum corneum barrier. No creature can form an adhesion on skin that is undamaged. But this doesn't explain why, despite its well-established anthropophization, commensal flora hasn't adapted to stick to the scalp. as anthropophization been established at all by the species of Malassezia? The only fungus that can have several different morphologies even when parasitised, according to mycology, is Malassezia. It can manifest as mycelial, yeast, or both. When skin infections occur, particularly in chromic.  While the yeast type is most prevalent in dandruff, the mycelial form is more prevalent in tinea versicolour. The organism's diverse morphological forms suggest that its evolution may have been incomplete in terms of anthropophization. To put it another way, a variety of triggers may be helping the organism transition from commensal to saprophytic. We firmly believe that when there is an abundance of scaling and no parasitic stage for Malassezia, the organism transitions from commensal to saprophytic condition.

We suggest splitting dandruff into two separate stages based on what is currently known about it, namely:

1. Primary stage:

  a. A number of host-specific risk factors
  b. A variety of non-specific, non-microbial triggering factors
 2. Secondary stage:

a. Aetiology of several microbes
b. A variety of reaction patterns unique to each individual.

Each patient should receive individualised treatment for dandruff, which calls for a logical approach and comprehension. Any antifungal treatment must be preceded by confirmation of the fungus's aetiology. To determine the best course of treatment, the disease's primary or secondary status must be established. Dermatologists must treat dandruff as soon as possible because if they don't, an unidentified "tertiary" stage of the condition could develop later on and provide a bigger issue to the medical community 16.

Diagram 3. Etiology of dandruff 10

Common scalp diseases called dandruff and seborrhoea dermatitis (D/SD) are essentially the same, with the primary difference being the degree to which they manifest.  Prescribing a person to the disease is generally unrelated to genetics.  An in-depth analysis of the pathophysiological changes in the stratum corneum (SC) in these conditions at the macro (signs and symptoms), micro (physiological structure and function), and biomolecular levels may allow for a more complete and accurate evaluation of the scalp's state and the therapeutic responses to treatment that recover homeostasis. When these three informational layers are combined, the pathophysiology of the D/SD condition is described in greater detail. This combination may cause a paradigm change in the way that what is meant by a return is defined.

There are various advantages to a more thorough definition of "scalp health" that includes novel biomolecular markers in addition to the current clinical parameters:

1. Contributes to advancement of knowledge regarding condition's bio pathology;
2. Offers a framework for evaluating the comprehensiveness of treatments;
3.  Permits use of additional clinical endpoints beyond normally experiential signs and symptoms; and
4. Identifies pertinent sub-clinical parameters that can be used to augment clinical observations.

In order to categorise the unique biomolecular and structural abnormalities associated with D/SD, the following four pathophysiological stages are helpful:

• The ecosystem of Malassezia and its connection to the skin's surface.
• The start and progression of inflammation.
• The inhibition of the skin's natural processes of cell division and proliferation.
• The breakdown of the skin's protective barrier.

Each stage of the pathophysiology can be examined in turn at the three levels of information, beginning with symptoms and signs and progressing to structure and function and biomolecular, with an emphasis on in vivo observations on D/SD populations to guarantee clinical relevance.  You might think of the four pathophysiological phases and the three informational layers as different angles from which to examine the whole D/SD dataset. These perspectives are combined to create an organisational model that classifies each independent measure according to its informational stratum and pathophysiological phase. This classification makes it easier to compare measurements within a phase and between strata, or the other way around. A more comprehensive model of scalp health is revealed, one that takes into account the pathophysiology's circular character and shows how subsequent susceptibility is increased by compromised barrier integrity. First, the distinctions between D/SD and normal populations will be the main focus in order to facilitate a thorough explanation of the pathophysiology underpinnings of the D/SD syndrome. In order to assess treatment efficiency more precisely than is feasible with conventional methods, the available therapy data will be analysed at the end. This will enable the identification of which measurements reflect valuable clinical parameters 17.

Diagram 4. Pathophysiology of dandruff 18- 19

Factors affecting on dandruff:

Microbial Factors:

1. Fungal: Malassezia furfur is believed to be the most prevalent dandruff-causing agent.  There are two ways in which the fungus Malassezia can induce dandruff:  In the scalp, Malassezia stimulates the activity of the Lipase enzyme.  The enzyme converts sebum triglycerides into saturated and unsaturated fatty acids through an oxidation process.  For their own development and reproduction, fungus rely on saturated fatty acids.  Eleic acid and arachidonic acid are two kinds of unsaturated fatty acids.  In contrast to oleic acid, which irritates human skin, arachidonic acid participates in amplifying inflammatory responses.  In turn, the breakdown of fatty acids causes inflammation, irritation, and fungal proliferation on the scalp.  Dandruff, which are flaky, dry hair, is another side effect of these.
2. Bacterial: The percentage of two primary bacterial societies on scalp is out of balance. Dandruff may also be caused by Staphylococcus epidermidis and Propionibacterium acnes.

B) Non-microbial Factors:

1. Hairline injuries the epidermis 

2. Oleic acid sensitivity in individuals.

3. Scalp dryness.

4. Hyperpigmented or inflamed skin.

5. Debris builds up as a result of infrequent shampooing.

6. Delicate reaction to hair dyes and other salon products.

7. Other skin issues affecting the scalp, such as eczema or psoriasis

Diagram 5. Schematic of HCPF hydrogel for dandruff treatment.21

Commonly used Plants in herbal shampoos:

Table1. Plants commonly used in herbal shampoos 10, 22, 25, 26.

Formulation:

Table2. Formulation 7, 6, 23, 24