Composition And Assessment Of Facial Gel Cleanser From Rooster Comb And Extracts Of Papaya Seed Oil

COSMETICS

Cosmetics are composed of mixtures of chemical compounds derived from natural sources or synthetically created ones. They have various purposes including personal and skin care. Cosmetics are natural or synthetic products that are used to maintain hygiene and include externally applied products used to enhance appearance. They are pharmaceutical products that are used for improving skin appearance and body odour. A cosmetic is an item intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance. These products are available in various forms like lotions, gels, creams, powders etc. They are designed for skin care and used for cleansing, protecting, exfoliating and moisturizing the skin.

Uses of various cosmetics

• Cosmetics are used as a cleansing, moisturizing and beautifying agent.
• They help in enhancing attractiveness of the body
• They help in altering the appearance of the body without affecting its functions.
• Acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes and other skin imperfections are treated or repaired by cosmetics.
• It is designed to enhance one's appearance can be used to conceal blemishes, enhance natural features, or add colour to a person's face.

CLEANSER

Cleanser is the products which are used to cleanse face without drying it out. They are very helpful in removing dirt, oil and provide moisture to the dry skin. It is found to be equally good for all skin type. The term cleanser refers to the product that cleans or removes dirt and other substances. A cleanser dissolves away excess oil makeup and grime from your face. Cleanser does the vital job of keeping skin clean, germ free smooth and fresh and moisturizes the horny layer without any harshness to the skin. There are many types of cleansers that are produced with a specific objective. Types of cleanser are gel cleansers, cream cleansers, oil cleansers, foam cleansers, clay cleansers, powder cleansers, micellar cleansers.

FACIAL GEL CLEANSER

Gel cleansers is good for eliminating surface oil and acne-causing bacteria as well as giving the skin a deeper clean. This cleanser will work to clear away impurities and prevent future breakouts. They are activated by water, so start by dampening the product in your hands with some water. Then proceed to foam up your gel cleanser using gentle circular massaging motions onto your face for a thorough clean. Rinse off with warm water. Gel cleanser is a different texture than foaming cleanser and are usually thicker and provide a small amount of foaming. They provide a lighter cleaning experience, which makes them ideal for sensitive skin type. It clears and pores without stripping them of your normal skin oil. Many gel cleansers have a cooling and refreshing formula which can soothe your skin. Facial gel cleanser is a great way to start and end your day and ensure that your skin is clean. [2]

FUNCTION OF GEL CLEANSER

• Cleansing: Removes dirt, oil, makeup, and impurities from skin.
• Foaming: Creates a rich lather that helps to lift and remove impurities.
• Moisturizing: Hydrates the skin and leaving it feeling soft and supple.
• Exfoliating: Removes dead skin cells, revealing brighter and makes smoother skin.
• Antibacterial: Helps control the growth of harmful bacteria on skin.
• Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness and swelling in skin.
• Antioxidant: Protects skin from environmental stressors and damage caused by free radicals.
• Prepares skin for further products: Allows for better absorption of subsequent skincare products.

ADVANTAGES

• Deep cleansing Gel cleansers can unclog pores and remove dirt and excess oil without irritating the skin.
• Acne fighting gel cleansers can treat bacterial acne with their antiseptic qualities. they can also help to prevent future breakouts.
• Extra hydrating: A Gentle gel formula can help keep your pores clear and provide hydration without leaving any residue behind.
• Softens skin: Face gels can hydrate your skin while also making it look bright, and clean.
• Balancing: gel cleansers cleanse the skin without disrupting its nature moisture balance.
• Exfoliating face gel cleanses, detoxicates, and improves the skin qualities.
• Removing makeup Gel cleansers can soften and dissolve makeup, making it easy to remove.

DISADVANTAGES

• Gel cleanser not effective for removing makeup or sunscreen
• May be too drying for dry skin
• May leave a residue

APPLICATION

• Facial gel cleansers remove dirt, makeup, sunscreen, pollution, and dead skin cells from the skin. They also help to exfoliate the top layer of skin.
• Unclog pores: Larger pores are more likely to get clogged with oil and impurities.
• Remove excess oil: Gel cleansers can remove excess oil without drying out the skin or leaving a greasy residue.
• Eliminate acne-causing bacteria: Gel cleansers can provide a deeper clean than other types of cleansers.
• The cleanser will work to clear away impurities, prevent future breakouts and also reduce scarring.
• It provides nutrients to the deeper layers of the skin. Gel cleansers are clear and have a gel- like consistency, and are ideal for oily or acne-prone skin.
• It helps reduce the appearance of acne scars and increasing collagen production.
• Eliminates surface oil and acne-causing bacteria as well as giving the skin a deeper clean.
• Fight ageing problems that is the blood circulation stimulates and boosts the face and it helps to fight ageing issues. [8]

PLANT PROFILE

Carica Papaya

Carica papaya is species of fruit-bearing plants and belong to the family known as Caricaceae. It was first domesticated in Mesoamerica, within modern-day southern Mexico and Central America. The papaya is a small, sparsely branched tree, usually with a single stem growing from 5 to 10 m (16 to 33 ft.) tall, with spirally arranged leaves confined to the top of the trunk. The plant is cultivated in Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Hawaii, and Florida. Carica papaya seeds are high in vitamin C, contain antioxidants such as phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Incorporating papaya seed extract or oil into skincare formulations may help combat signs of aging and environmental damage. Papaya seed oil is rich in moisturizing fatty acids, such as oleic acid and linoleic acid, which can help hydrate and nourish the skin. It is often used in moisturizers, creams, and lotions to provide long-lasting hydration and improve skin texture.[4]

       
           
       
    Fig no 1 Papaya seed

Family: Caricaceae Genus: Carica.

 Species: Cariappa

ANIMAL PROFILE

Gallus gallus domesticus is the scientific name for the domestic chicken. Gallus gallus domesticus are thought to have been domesticated from wild junglefowls in Southeast Asia. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a linear, non-sulfated polysaccharide mostly extracted from rooster comb.[26] Hyaluronic acid, a sugar molecule found in chicken combs, can help keep human skin moist and elastic. It's a key ingredient in skin care products because it hydrates the skin and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Also, its antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties accelerate the formation of newer skin cells and it helps to protect the skin from UV radiation, which can cause premature aging. [26]

Family: Phasianidae Genus: Gallus

Species: Gallus gallus domesticus

       
           
       
    Fig no 2 Gallus Gallus domesticus

METHODOLOGY

Preparation and extraction

1. Preparation and extraction of Carica papaya seed oil by Clevenger apparatus

The fresh papaya seed were initially washed and then dried under shade for 5 to10 days and then powdered [17]. The powder sample was weighed and stored in air tight container and perform extraction using Clevenger apparatus.[23]

• 300ml of water was added into the round bottom flask of Clevenger apparatus. 50g of powdered papaya seed was added to the flask and fitted into the Clevenger extractor and allowed to run the apparatus for 6 hours at 40°C.
• The mixture in the set-up was heated and vapor produced was subsequently condensed by water flowing in and out of the condenser. The supernatant layer formed is the papaya seed oil and the down layer is water
• At the end of extraction, we can easily separate the oil. The process was continued until a sufficient amount of papaya seed oil was obtained.

2. Preparation and extraction of hyaluronic acid from gallus gallus domesticus

The rooster comb was separated from hen and washed using normal water to remove dirt and dust and then stored it in an ice box. The extraction of hyaluronic acid from rooster comb is done by chemical extraction which include defatting, precipitation, filtration, centrifugation, desiccation.[19][26]

• • Grounded 125g of frozen rooster combs was and placed in 250ml of acetone in a refrigerator to remove fat in it. After 2 h, the acetone was drained and fresh acetone was added. This was repeated 10 times.
  • After the last extraction and draining, the remaining acetone was evaporated in a stream of air. 20g of dried and defatted rooster combs was obtained.
  • This rooster combs were extracted ten times with 250ml of 5% sodium acetate solution at every 2 h interval. Each time the viscous fluid was collected by squeezing through a cotton cloth and rooster comb residue was discarded.
  • Add 375 ml of ethanol, the precipitate was centrifuged, and dissolved in 5% sodium acetate solution, and centrifuged again. Impurities such as protein were removed from the supernatant solution by shaking it with 25 ml chloroform for four times. The solution was precipitated with ethanol again and then the precipitate was dried using desiccator. The dried hyaluronic acid was collected.

FORMULATION OF FACIAL GEL CLEANSER

Phase A:

Xanthan gum was dispersed in distilled water with continuous stirring and kept the beaker aside to swell the xanthan gum to form a gel.

Phase B:

To distilled water, required quantity of Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl Alcohol was dissolved by heating on water bath and then the solution was cooled. Propylene glycol, Sodium cocoyl glutamate, Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and Cocamidopropyl betaine was added into it.

Phase C:

Further required quantities of extracts were homogenized and both mixtures were then added into xanthan gum gel base with continuous stirring. Triethanolamine was added drop wise to the formulation for the adjustment of required skin pH and to obtain the gel of required consistency. [1,32]

PREPARATION OF FACIAL GEL CLEANSER:

In this study, six formulations were prepared. These preparations are denoted as FGC1, FGC2, FGC3, FGC4, FGC5, and FGC6.

Physical evaluation

The physical properties such as appearance, colour and consistency were determined visually. The physical appearance of a facial gel cleanser is an important aspect of its overall quality and acceptability. [22]

Washability

The washability of a facial gel cleanser can be evaluated through a series of tests that assess the ability to be easily rinsed off the skin without leaving any residue. Washing can be done by rinsing the substrate with water using a massaging motion.[2][11]

Measurement of pH

pH of the facial gel cleanser is important to evaluate as it affects the skin natural pH balance and causes irritation. Calibrate the pH meter properly with buffer solutions before measuring the sample. Measure the pH by inserting the pH electrode in to the gel solution and record the value. Facial gel cleanser was measured by using a calibrated pH meter at constant temperature and average pH is calculated.[2][11]

Homogeneity

The formulation is set on a Container and homogeneity was tested by visual inspection. Visual evaluation includes Evaluation of appearance by observing the gel cleanser’s colour, clarity and consistency in transparent container.[10]

Spreadability

The formulation of gel was placed over one of the slides. The other slide was placed on the top of the gel, such that the gel was sandwiched between the two slides. The spread ability is expressed in terms of time in occupied by a distance of 6 cm the slide. The weight of 100gm was placed on the upper slide, so that the gel between the two slides was pressed evenly to a thin layer. The weight was removed and the excess of the gel adhering to the slides was scrapped off. The two slide in position were fixed to stand without slightest disturbance and in such a way that only the upper slide to slip off freely by the force of weight tied to it. The weight of 20 gram was carefully attached to the upper slide. The time taken for the upper slide to travel the distance of 6 cm and separated away from the lower slide under the influence of the weight was noted. The experiment was repeated three times on both formulated gels. Spread ability was calculated by using the following formula,[2][21][11]

 Irritancy test

 Where,

S=M×L/T

S-Spread ability

M-Weight on the upper slide (20gm) L-Length of the glass (6.5cm)

T-Time in sec [4]

 The irritancy of a facial gel cleanser can be evaluated through various test these includes. Patch tests in which the gel was applied on left hand dorsal side surface of 1sq.cm and observed in equal intervals up to 24hrs for irritancy, redness and oedema.[10]

Grittiness

The grittiness of a facial gel cleanser refers to the principle of presence of particles or grains that can cause a rough or abrasive sensation on the skin. Test procedure includes samples preparation of gel cleanser in sufficient amount and then visually inspect the cleanser for any visible particles then perform touch test by applying a small amount of gel cleanser to the sensitive area of skin.[10]

Viscosity

The viscosity of a facial gel cleanser is important physical property that affects its texture, spread ability. The value of viscosity is recorded in centipoise (cP) the viscosity of facial gel cleanser was determined by using digital Brookfield viscometer. 50ml of gel cleanser is taken into 100ml of beaker and spindle 64 attached to the viscometer. Then it dipped into the beaker, adjust the speed into 100rpm and record the viscosity reading. [10][24]

Foam ability

 The foam ability of facial gel cleanser is an important property that effects its cleaning efficacy. Small amount of gel has been taken and suitable foam generation method is selected. Sample is added into a measuring cylinder containing water. Initial volume was noted, cylinder was shaken for ten times and the final volume was noted. Observe and record the foam stability over a specified time period.[2]

FTIR (fourier transform infrared) spectroscopy

When infrared radiation passes through a sample, some of the radiation is absorbed and radiation that passes through the sample is recorded [9]. FTIR is the preferred method of infrared spectroscopy for several reasons:

• It does not destroy the sample.
• It is faster than older techniques.
• It is significantly sensitive and precise.

Based on the FTIR spectrum, identify the presence of key ingredient such as surfactants, moisturizers and preservatives. It determines the level of purity or contamination in the sample. It compares the spectrum to that of a standard or reference material to evaluate the products authenticity or consistency [9]. Some common functional groups and their corresponding FTIR spectral regions are:

• Hydroxyl group (-OH):3500-3200 cm? ?
• Carboxyl group (-COOH):1700-1500 cm? ?
• Carbonyl (-C=O):1800-1600cm cm? ?

Analysis of antioxidant activity

A standard solution of ascorbic acid was prepared in the concentration of 2 mg/ml in methanol. The standard calibration curve was obtained using different working standards and was made up of 3ml with methanol. DPPH (2, 2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) solution (500µl) was then added and mixed vigorously. Similar steps were followed for the extract. The reaction mixture was incubated for about 45min in dark condition and absorbance was measured at 517 nm using spectrophotometer. The standard curve was obtained using ascorbic acid [2][14]. Antioxidant activity was expressed as percent Scavenging of DPPH and it was calculated by using formula:[25]

Where,

% Scavenging capacity of DPPH = (A0-A1)/A0×100

 A0 = absorbance of control A1 = Absorbance of sample

RESULT AND DISCUSSION

Physical evaluation

The physical properties such as appearance, colour and consistency of the prepared facial gel cleanser are visually tested. Gel cleanser formulation was white viscous gel preparation with a smooth homogenous texture and glossy appearance. Consistency and appearance were found to be good. Also, both characteristics was found to be appreciable in formulation FGC5.

The washability of prepared facial gel cleanser was tested and it was found to be easily washable.

The pH of gel cleanser was found to be satisfactory and it is in the range of 5.5 to 5.8 which is most suitable for skin. By comparing all prepared formulations, FGC5 formulation found to have better.

Homogenity

Under visual inspection of the prepared formulation indicates no lumps or aggregate presents. And the formulation is found to have uniform colour dispersion and free from any particles.

The value of Spread ability indicate that the gel is easily spreadable by small amount of shear. From the result of evaluation, it shows that FGC5 given the higher percentage of spread ability compared to other formulation.

The irritancy test was performed and the facial gel cleanser did not cause any skin irritation or reactions.

The gel cleanser is smooth and free of grittiness, indicating a uniform and consistent texture.

The viscosity measurement was performed and recorded using Brookfield viscometer. The viscosity was recorded for 6 different concentrated formulations. The viscosity of FGC5 was found to have appropriate viscosity.

The foam ability of gel cleanser is performed and found that FGC5 exhibits moderate foaming performance (provides a small amount of foam) and acceptable foam stability.

IR radiation passes through the sample, some of the radiation is absorbed. The radiation that passes through the sample is recorded. The FTIR spectrum of the facial gel cleanser suggests that it contains a blend of Carica papaya oil and hyaluronic acid, as evidenced by the presence of hydroxyl (OH) and carboxyl (COOH) functional groups.

Antioxidant activity of Carica Papaya seed oil and hyaluronic acid

Antioxidant activity of formulation