Design Development and Evaluation of Under Eye Herbal Serum Citrullus Lanatus with Kojic Acid

Cosmetic Science:

Cosmetic science is an interdisciplinary field that focuses on the research, development, formulation, manufacturing, and evaluation of cosmetic products intended to enhance or alter the appearance, texture, and health of skin, hair, nails, and other external body parts. It encompasses both the art and science of creating products that are safe, effective, aesthetically pleasing, and compliant with regulatory standards.

Skincare Products

• Moisturizers, serums, cleansers, exfoliants, sunscreens, and anti-aging treatments.
• One of the fastest-growing segments due to increasing consumer focus on skin health and wellness.

Haircare Products

• Shampoos, conditioners, hair oils, styling products, and hair colorants.
• Driven by trends in fashion, hair loss solutions, and gender-neutral products.

Makeup or Color Cosmetics

• Foundations, lipsticks, eyeliners, blushes, and nail polish.
• Highly influenced by fashion, celebrity endorsements, and social media trends.

Fragrances

• Perfumes, body sprays, deodorants, and scented lotions.
• Represents a blend of artistry and chemistry.

Personal Hygiene and Toiletries

• Soaps, toothpaste, deodorants, shaving products, and sanitary goods.

Cosmeceuticals and Dermatological Products

• Hybrid products that combine cosmetic and therapeutic benefits (e.g., anti-acne serums, retinol creams).
• Prohibition of misbranded, adulterated, and spurious drugs
• Penalties for non-compliance

Herbal Under-Eye Serums

In the context of “Design, Development and Evaluation of Under-Eye Herbal Serum”, the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is crucial because:

• It ensures that the formulated serum is safe for the delicate under-eye area.
• Herbal ingredients like aloe vera, cucumber, and licorice must comply with safety and quality norms.
• The product must not make false therapeutic claims unless substantiated by research.
• It must meet labelling requirements (ingredient list, batch number, manufacturing date, expiry, etc.)

Recent Developments

With the growing herbal and Ayurvedic cosmetic market, the regulatory framework continues to evolve:

• The Ministry of AYUSH plays a role in regulating Ayurvedic, Siddha, and Unani drugs and related cosmetics.
• There's an increasing emphasis on cruelty-free, non-toxic, and sustainable cosmetics.
• BIS has updated guidelines for natural and organic cosmetics.

Introduction to under-eye herbal formulation

The human eye is one of the most expressive and sensitive areas of the face, and the skin surrounding it—particularly the under-eye region—is delicate, thin, and vulnerable to various dermatological concerns. The under-eye area is often the first place to show visible signs of aging, stress, fatigue, dehydration, and environmental damage. Common concerns include dark circles, puffiness, fine lines, wrinkles, and under-eye bags, which can significantly affect an individual’s appearance and confidence. In response to these challenges, the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries have invested heavily in developing topical solutions that are both safe and effective. Among these, under-eye serums, especially those formulated using herbal or botanical ingredients, have gained remarkable attention for their gentle yet targeted therapeutic action.

Under-eye herbal serums represent a new frontier in the convergence of traditional herbal medicine and modern cosmetic science. These formulations are lightweight, fast-absorbing liquids enriched with concentrated active ingredients derived from medicinal plants. Unlike conventional creams and moisturizers, serums are designed to penetrate deeper into the skin, delivering potent herbal actives directly to the affected tissues. Their non-greasy texture and high efficacy make them ideal for use in the sensitive periocular region, where heavy creams may lead to pore clogging or milia formation.

Rationale for Herbal-Based Formulations

The growing inclination toward natural and organic skincare products has significantly influenced consumer preferences in recent years. This shift is driven by increasing awareness of the side effects associated with synthetic ingredients, including allergies, irritation, and long-term toxicity. Herbal ingredients, on the other hand, are biocompatible, environmentally friendly, and offer multifunctional benefits. Plants like Aloe vera, Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Green tea (Camellia sinensis), and Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) have demonstrated anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, depigmenting, and soothing properties that are especially valuable in under-eye treatments.

For example, Aloe vera is known for its skin-hydrating and anti-inflammatory effects, making it ideal for reducing puffiness and fine lines. Licorice extract contains glabridin, a natural skin-lightening agent that helps reduce hyperpigmentation and dark circles. Cucumber has a high-water content and cooling effect that alleviates swelling and refreshes tired eyes. The use of such herbs aligns with Ayurvedic and naturopathic traditions, while also being supported by modern pharmacological studies.

Market Trends and Demand

The global cosmetic industry has seen a substantial increase in the demand for targeted eye care products. According to market research, the eye care segment within the skincare industry is projected to grow steadily due to increased awareness of eye aesthetics, especially among the urban population. The demand for under-eye serums is being fueled by:

• Rising exposure to screens and blue light, which accelerates eye fatigue and dark circles.
• Stressful lifestyles, poor sleep, and pollution.
• Aesthetic consciousness among both men and women.
• A preference for non-invasive alternatives to cosmetic surgery.

Herbal formulations offer a niche yet growing market segment that combines efficacy with safety, a combination highly favored by health-conscious consumers. These products also cater to vegan, cruelty-free, and chemical-free trends, thus expanding their appeal globally.

Scientific Foundation and Formulation Challenge

Despite the popularity of herbal ingredients, designing an effective under-eye herbal serum involves several scientific challenges. These include:

• Selecting the right combination of herbs based on their pharmacological action and compatibility.
• Ensuring the stability of bioactive components, which may degrade upon exposure to light, heat, or air.
• Achieving a formulation with appropriate pH, viscosity, and absorption properties suitable for the sensitive eye area.
• Preventing microbial contamination, as water-based herbal formulations are susceptible to microbial growth.

Hence, a well-designed under-eye serum requires a multidisciplinary approach encompassing pharmacognosy, pharmaceutics, dermatology, and cosmetic science. Scientific evaluation through in vitro and in vivo studies is crucial to validate its safety and efficacy. Additionally, sensory testing and user acceptability are essential to ensure commercial viability.

Regulatory and Quality Considerations

The production and marketing of herbal cosmetics in India are regulated by the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940, and subsequent amendments. Although herbal serums fall under the cosmetic category, they must comply with quality and safety standards, including microbial limits, preservative use, and labelling requirements. Compliance with Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) and quality testing (e.g., pH, viscosity, skin irritation, and patch tests) is necessary to ensure consumer safety.

Table no.1: Summary of Under-Eye Problems with Symptoms, Causes, and Herbal Remedies

Table no. 2:  Types of Under-Eye Herbal Serums

MATERIAL & METHODS

Watermelon Extract

fig No1: Watermelon Extract

• Botanical Name: Citrullus lanatus
• Synonyms: Watermelon
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Cucurbitales

Family: Cucurbitaceae

Genus: Citrullus

Species: C. lanatus

• Biological Source: Fruit pulp of Citrullus lanatus.
• Geographical Distribution: Widely cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions worldwide
• Chemical Constituents: Lycopene, citrulline, vitamins A and C
• Uses: Hydrating and antioxidant properties; helps in moisturizing and revitalizing the under-eye area

Kajoic acid

fig no 2:- kajoic acid

• Botanical Name: Aspergillus flavus
• Synonyms: Pyranone
• Taxonomical Classification

Kingdom: Fungi

Phylum: Ascomycota

Class:Eurotiomycetes

Order:Eurotiales

Family:Trichocomaceae

Genus: Aspergillus

Species:Aspergillus oryzae

• Biological Source: A secondary metabolite obtained from the fermentation of various species of fungi, mainly Aspergillus oryzae
• Geographical distribution: The fungi producing kojic acid are commonly found in: Japan (widely used in traditional fermentation industries),China,Korea,India. Other tropical and subtropical regions where the fungi can grow in agricultural and industrial fermentation setups.

• Chemical Constituents

Uses: Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Uses: Skin Whitening, Hyperpigmentation Treatment, and Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, Anti-inflammatory

Liquorice Powder

Fig.no.3:Liquorice Powder

• Botanical Name: Glycyrrhiza glabra
• Synonyms: Liquorice, Sweet Root
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Fabales

Family: Fabaceae

Genus: Glycyrrhiza

Species: G. glabra

• Biological Source: Dried roots and rhizomes of Glycyrrhiza glabra
• Geographical Distribution: Native to Southern Europe and parts of Asia; cultivated in India, Iran, and China
• Chemical Constituents: Glycyrrhizin, liquiritin, glabridin, flavonoids
• Uses: Anti-inflammatory and depigmenting properties; effective in reducing dark circles and puffiness under the eye.                                                                 

Aloe Vera Gel

Fig no 4. Aloe Vera Gel with (vitamin C) & (Cucumber extract)

• Botanical Name: Aloe barbadensis Miller
• Synonyms: Ghrit Kumari
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Liliopsida

Order: Asparagales

Family: Asphodelaceae

Genus: Aloe

Species: A. barbadensis

• Biological Source: Gel extracted from fresh leaves
• Geographical Distribution: Native to North Africa; cultivated globally in tropical and subtropical regions
• Chemical Constituents: Polysaccharides, vitamins (A, C, E), enzymes, amino acids
• Uses: Soothing and moisturizing effects; reduces puffiness and provides a cooling sensation to the under-eye area

Ascorbic Acid

• Botanical Name Vitamic C
• Synonyms L-Ascorbic acid
• Taxonomical Classification

Kingdom:Plantae

Phylum:Magnoliophyta (Angiosperms)

Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons)

Order:Malpighiales

Family:Phyllanthaceae

Genus:Phyllanthus

Species:Phyllanthus emblica

• Uses-to treat and prevent vitamin C deficiency, including scurvy

Potato Starch Extract

fig no 5. Potato Starch Extract

• Botanical Name: Solanum tuberosum
• Synonyms: Potato
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Solanales

Family: Solanaceae

Genus: Solanum

Species: S. tuberosum

• Biological Source: Tuber
• Geographical Distribution: Cultivated worldwide
• Chemical Constituents: Starch, vitamin C, phenolic compounds
• Uses: Natural bleaching agent; helps in lightening dark circles and reducing under-eye puffiness

Avacado Oil

Fig no 6 Avocado Oil

• Botanical Name: Persea americana
• Synonyms: Avocado
• Taxonomical Classification

Kingdom : Plantee

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Laurales

Family: Lauraceae

Genus: Persea

Species: P. americana

• Biological Source: Fruit pulp
• Geographical Distribution: Native to Central America; cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions
• Chemical Constituents: Oleic acid, vitamins A, D, E, lecithin
• Uses: Deeply moisturizing; enhances skin elasticity and reduces lines

Jojoba oil

Fig no 7. Jojoba Oil

• • Botanical Name: Simmondsia chinensis
  • Synonyms: Goat Nut, Deer Nut, Pignut
  • Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Caryophyllales

Family: Simmondsiaceae

Genus: Simmondsia

Species: S. chinensis

• Biological Source: Seeds
• Geographical Distribution: Native to Southwestern United States and Northern Mexico
• Chemical Constituents: Liquid wax esters, vitamin E, fatty acids
• Uses: Mimics skin's natural sebum; provides long-lasting moisture and helps in reducing under-eye dryness

Olive oil

Fig no 8. Olive Oil

• Botanical Name: Olea europaea
• Synonyms: Olive
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Lamiales

Family: Oleaceae

Genus: Olea

Species: O. europaea

• Biological Source: Fruit
• Geographical Distribution: Native to the Mediterranean region; cultivated worldwide
• Chemical Constituents: Oleic acid, polyphenols, squalene
• Uses: Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties; nourishes and protects the delicate under-eye skin.

Almond oil

Fig no 9. Almond Oil

• Botanical Name: Prunus amygdalus
• Synonyms: Sweet Almond
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Rosales

Family: Rosaceae

Genus: Prunus

Species: P. amygdalus

• Biological Source: Seeds (kernels)
• Geographical Distribution: Native to the Middle East and South Asia; cultivated globally
• Chemical Constituents: Oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E
• Uses: Lightens dark circles; provides deep nourishment and improves skin tone under the eyes

Sandalwood Oil

Fig no 10 Sandalwood Oil

• Botanical Name: Santalum album
• Synonyms: Indian Sandalwood, White Sandalwood
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Santalales

Family: Santalaceae

Genus: Santalum

Species: S. album

• Biological Source: Heartwood
• Geographical Distribution: Native to Southern India and Southeast Asia
• Chemical Constituents: α-santalol, β-santalol
• Uses: Soothing and cooling effects; reduces inflammation and puffiness around the eyes

Saffron Oil

fig no11. Saffron oil

• Botanical Name: Crocus sativus
• Synonyms: Saffron Crocus
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Liliopsida

Order: Asparagales

Family: Iridaceae

Genus: Crocus

Species: C. sativus

• Biological Source: Stigmas of the flower
• Geographical Distribution: Cultivated in Iran, India (Kashmir), Greece, and Spain
• Chemical Constituents: Crocin, safranal, picrocrocin
• Uses: Natural skin brightener; helps in reducing dark circles and enhancing skin radiance

Tea tree oil

fig no.12-Tea Tree Oil

• Botanical Name: Melaleuca alternifolia
• Synonyms: Tea Tree
• Taxonomical Classification:

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Tracheophyta

Class: Magnoliopsida

Order: Myrtales

Family: Myrtaceae

Genus: Melaleuca

Species: M. alternifolia

• Biological Source: Leaves
• Geographical Distribution: Native to Australia
• Chemical Constituents: Terpinen-4-ol, cineole
• Uses: Antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties; should be used with caution in under-eye formulations due to potential sensitivity

Methyl Paraben

fig 12 Methyl Paraben

• Chemical Name: Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate
• Synonyms: Methylparaben, Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate
• Chemical Formula: C?H?O?
• Biological Source: Synthetic (though parabens occur naturally in some fruits like blueberries)
• Geographical Distribution: Widely manufactured globally
• Chemical Properties: Esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid
• Uses:
  • Commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and foods
  • Prevents growth of bacteria and fungi
  • Caution: Can cause skin sensitivity or allergic reactions in some individuals; usage in sensitive areas (like under-eye) should be minimal

Glycerin

Fig-13 Glycerine

• Chemical Name: Glycerol
• Synonyms: Glycerine, 1,2,3-Propanetriol
• Chemical Formula: C?H?O?
• Biological Source: Obtained from plant oils or synthesized from petrochemical sources
• Geographical Distribution: Universally produced and available
• Chemical Properties: Colorless, odorless, viscous, hygroscopic liquid

• Uses: Used as a humectant, emollient, and solvent in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food, Helps retain moisture in skin and products

• Caution: Generally safe, but may cause mild irritation in very sensitive skin, especially in concentrated or occluded formulations near the eyes

Vitamin E

• Chemical Name: Tocopherol (commonly d-α-tocopherol in natural form)
• Synonyms: Tocopherol, α-Tocopherol
• Chemical Formula: C??H??O?
• Biological Source: Extracted from vegetable oils (e.g., wheat germ, sunflower, safflower)
• Geographical Distribution: Globally sourced from natural and synthetic origins
• Chemical Properties: Fat-soluble antioxidant
• Uses: Acts as an antioxidant in formulations, protecting skin and product ingredients from oxidative damage. Provides moisturizing and anti-inflammatory benefits
• Caution: In high concentrations, may cause contact dermatitis or clog pores in sensitive individuals; use with care in delicate skin areas like around the eyes

Table No. 1: Under-Eye Herbal Serum Formulation Table

Total Volume:

• Aqueous Phase: 10 ml
• Oil Phase: 10 ml
• Final Volume: 20 ml cucumber extract, green tea, almond oil, etc.).

Table No. 2: Formulation Table of Herbal Eye serum

Procedure

• Preparation of Under Eye Serum

Fig. no15. Weighing of ingredients

Preparations of Phases

Phase A: - Aqueous Phase

Mixed Liquorice Powder, Potato starch Extract, kojic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Aloe Vera gel, Glycerine, Watermelon Extract, Methyl Paraben in water with continuous stirring at 30-40C

Phase B: - Oil Phase

Mixed Avocado oil, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Almond Oil, Vitamin E, Tea Tree Oil with continuous stirring. Add Oil phase in Aqueous phase drops wise with continuous stirring at 40c until get the homogeneous phase.

Fig.no: 16   mixing of Oil & Aqueous phase in magnetic stirrer

Evaluation of herbal serum:

Density is calculated with the help of specific gravity bottle.

Weight of empty bottle (W1)

Weight of bottle + eye serum(W2)

Weight of bottle+ water (W3)

PH is observed with the help of pH meter.

Evaluation Table:

Fig.no 17.Formulations F1,F2,F3,F4.