Development and Evaluation of a Chamomile Enriched Antiaging Face serum For Skin Regeneration

Aging is a natural biological process characterized by the gradual decline in skin elasticity, hydration, and structural integrity. Factors such as oxidative stress, environmental exposure, and Reduced collagen synthesis contribute to the formation of fine lines, wrinkles, and overall skin  Aging. To counteract these effects, skincare formulations enriched with natural antioxidants and Soothing agents have gained significant attention. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is widely recognized for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant And skin-soothing properties, making it an excellent ingredient in anti-aging formulations. Rich in flavonoids, terpenoids, and essential oils, chamomile extract helps reduce oxidative stress, promote skin regeneration, and enhance skin barrier functions.[1] This study focuses on the formulation and evaluation of a chamomile-infused anti-aging face Serum. The serum is designed to combine chamomile’s skin-rejuvenating benefits with other Potent anti-aging ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid for hydration, vitamin C for collagen Synthesis, and vitamin E for antioxidant protection. The formulation is assessed for stability, Efficacy, and sensory attributes to ensure its effectiveness and consumer acceptability. The serum is developed using a blend of chamomile extract, polyglutamic acid (PGA), and other Bioactive ingredients to promote skin rejuvenation. The formulation process involves optimizing Ingredient concentrations to achieve maximum efficacy while ensuring stability and safety.[2]

1.2 Chamomile Face serum

A serum is a concentrated, lightweight skincare product that delivers active ingredients deep into the skin, targeting specific concerns like aging, acne or hyperpigmentation. With its high concentration of active ingredients and non-greasy texture, serums provide benefits such as hydration, brightening and anti-aging, promoting healthier and more radiant skin.Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is widely recognized for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties, making it an excellent ingredient in anti-aging formulations. Rich in flavonoids, terpenoids, and essential oils, chamomile extract helps reduce oxidative stress, promote skin regeneration and enhance skin barrier functions.[3]

1. Scientific Name-Matricaria chamomilla
2. Synonym-Matricariarecutita, Chamomilla

Recutita, Matricaria suaveolens

3. Family-Asteraceae

Chemical Constituent Chamazulene,  Apigenine, Bisabolol and Flavonoids.

2] Plant Profile

2.1 Botanical Description

Chamomile’s botanical charm translates beautifully into skincare, particularly in a face serum for anti-aging. This gentle herb’s soothing and calming properties can help reduce inflammation and redness while its antioxidant powers protect the skin from environmental stressors and damage. By incorporating chamomile into a face serum, you can potentially improve skin elasticity and firmness, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The serum can also hydrate and nourish the skin, leaving it looking smoother and more radiant. With its anti-inflammatory properties, chamomile face serum can be especially beneficial for sensitive skin, providing a calming and protective effect that promotes healthier, more youthful-looking skin[4]                     

2.2 Chemical Constituents

Chamomile’s therapeutic properties can be attributed to its rich chemical constituents, including sesquiterpene lactones, flavonoids and essential oils. Key compounds like chamazulene, bisabolol and apigenin contribute to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and soothing effects. Chamazulene, in particular, is responsible for chamomile’s blue color and has potent anti-inflammatory properties. Bisabolol, on the other hand has antimicrobial and anti-irritant properties, while apigenin has been shown to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. These bioactive compounds work synergistically to provide chamomile’s calming, protective and regenerative benefits making it a popular ingredient in skincare and herbal remedies [5].

3] MATERIAL AND METHODS

1] MATERIAL

Table No: 3.1 Experimental Material And Their Uses

3.1.1 Polyglutamic acid

Therapeutic Applications

1. Skin care: PGA is used in skincare products for its moisturizing and humectant properties, helping to retain skin moisture and improve skin elasticity.
2. Wound healing: PGA’s ability to retain moisture and promote tissue repair makes it useful in wound healing applications.
3. Drug delivery: PGA can be used as a carrier for drugs, allowing for controlled release and improved efficacy.[6]

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Fig No. 3.1 Polyglutamic acid

3.1.2 Glycerine

? Therapeutic Uses of Glycerin

1. Moisturizing: Glycerin is a humectant that helps retain moisture in the skin, making it an effective ingredient in skincare products for dry, sensitive or irritated skin.
2. Skin hydration: Glycerin helps to lock in moisture reducing dryness and improving skin elasticity.[7]

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Fig No:  3.2 Glycerine

3.1.3 Vitamin C

? Biological Source :Vitamin C is abundantly found in various fruits and vegetables. Citrus fruits like oranges, lemons and limes, Berries such as strawberries, kiwis and blueberries are also rich in vitamin C.

? Traditional Uses

1. Supporting immune function and overall health.
2. Enhancing skin health and appearance.
3. Vitamin C is wisely used to boost immunity and protect against oxidative stress.
4. The antioxidant properties of Vitamin C make it a wise choice for supporting skin health and reducing signs of aging

3.1.4 Vitamine E

? Biological sources -Sources of Vitamin E is found in plant-based sources like vegetable oils sunflower, safflower, and wheat germ oil.

? Traditional uses

1.Anti-aging : Reducing signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

2.Skin health: Protecting skin from damage and promoting wound healing.

3.Antioxidant properties: Neutralizing free radicals and reducing oxidative stress[8].

3.1.5 Panthenol

? Biological Sources -Panthenol is derived from Pantothenic acid, also known as Vitamin B5. It can be found naturally in various food sources, including Meat (organ meats, poultry Fish,Whole grains and Legumes.

? Therapeutic uses

1. Moisturizing: Attracts and retains moisture, leaving skin feeling soft and supple.
2. Skin soothing: Helps to calm and soothe irritated skin.
3. Wound healing: May help to promote wound healing and tissue repair.
4. Skin elasticity: Supports skin elasticity and firmness [9].

3.1.6 Jojoba oil

? Biological Source -Simmondsia chinensis plant Specifically, the oil is derived from the seeds of this desert shrub, native to the south western United States and northern Mexico.

? Family – Buxaceae

? Traditional Uses

1. Moisturizing: Hydrates and softens skin
2. Skin balancing: Balances skin’s natural pH and oil production
3. Anti-inflammatory: Soothes and calms irritated skin
4. Antioxidant: Protects skin from environmental stressors[10].

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            <img alt="Jojoba Oil.png" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250513212716-10.png" width="150">
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Fig No. 3.3 Jojoba Oil

1. 1. 7. Sodium Benzoate

Sodium benzoate powder is accepted as a preservative by some of the worlds toughest natural product certification. Using sodium benzoate in Face serum preservative is a safe and effective technique to protect against bacteria and mold forming the bottles.

? Type of ingredient – preservative

? Uses – it can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, potentially contributing to its anti-aging benefits [11].

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Fig No. 3.4 Sodium Benzoate

2] METHOD

 A] Extraction of Chamomile Infusion (Water-Based Method) 

Chamomile infusion is a simple and effective way to extract its beneficial compounds for use in skincare formulations like face serums.

1. Preparation of Plant Material

• Collect and clean the plant material (e.g., leaves, roots, flowers).
• Dry the plant material to remove excess moisture.
• Grind or chop the plant material into small pieces to increase the surface area.

2. Selection of Solvent

• Choose a suitable solvent based on the desired extract and the properties of the plant material.
• Common solvents include water, ethanol, glycerin and propylene glycol.

3. Infusion (Water Based method)

• Combine the plant material and solvent in a container (e.g., glass jar, stainless steel vessel).
• Ensure the plant material is completely submerged in the solvent.

4. Separations and Filtration [12].

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            <img alt="Infusion Process.png" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250513212716-8.png" width="150">
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Fig No: 3.5 Infusion Process               Fig. No:3.6 Extract of chamomile

3] Process

1.  Phase 1: Water phase preparation

• Measure the required amount of distilled water.
• Dissolved sodium benzoate in distilled water by stirring well.
• Add panthenol vitamin c to the water phase mix until dissolved.
• Stir in chamomile extract and ensure it evenly blended.

1.  Phase 2: Oil phase preparation

• Measure jojoba oil and vitamin E.
• Mix the oil phase well to evenly distributed vitamin E

2. Phase 3: Emulsification 

• Incorporated oil phase into water phase while stirring continuously.
• Add polyglutamic acid into formulation and add sodium benzoate as preservative.
• Transfer the serum into clean bottle [13].

4] Evaluation Test

4.1 Organoleptic Evaluation:

Organoleptic evaluation assesses the product sensory characteristics including:

4.1.1 Visual Evaluation

4.1.1.1. Colour : The Chamomile face serum colour is Slightly yellow or golden  

4.1.1.2. Clarity: The Face serum clarity is can refer to its texture, consistency and  it’s ability to clarify, brighten the skin and lightweight or water to thicker.

4.1.1.3 Texture: The Face serum texture is evaluated for smoothness, absorption rate and        spreadability.

4.1.2 Olfactory Evaluation

4.1.2.1 Odour: The Face serum is Mild and soothing Scent aroma is assessed for intensity, character, and acceptability.

4.1.2.2 Fragrance: The presence and type of fragrance are evaluated to ensure it is pleasant Visual inspection of the serum’s colour, clarity and consistency.[14].

4.2 pH (Potential of Hydrogen)

The pH test of a face serum is a simple procedure used to determine its acidity or alkalinity, ensuring it aligns with the skin’s natural pH range of 4.5 to 5.5. This test involves dipping a pH strip into the serum and comparing the resulting color change to a reference chart. A balanced pH helps maintain the skin’s protective barrier and prevents irritation, making this test crucial for evaluating the serum’s safety, effectiveness and compatibility with the skin.[15]

4.3 Viscosity

Measurement of the serum’s thickness and flow ability,The viscosity of a face serum refers to its thickness or resistance to flow, which plays a crucial role in how the product feels on the skin and how effectively it delivers active ingredients. The viscosity of a chamomile face serum affects its texture, stability and user experience. Viscosity measures the serum’s resistance to flow, impacting how easily it spreads and absorbs into the skin. A serum with optimal viscosity should have a smooth, consistent texture, allowing for effortless application and absorption. Measuring viscosity ensures the serum meets quality and performance standards, providing a pleasant user experience and effective delivery of chamomile’s benefits

4.4 Spredability Test

Spreadability is an important characteristic of topical formulations, such as face serums, as it affects ease of application, uniformity of distribution, and overall user experience. An ideal serum should spread easily with minimal effort, forming a thin, uniform layer over the skin.

4.4.1 Process

1. Sample Preparation: A fixed amount of the chamomile face serum (e.g., 1 gram) was placed between two glass plates of known dimensions (e.g., 20 cm × 20 cm).
2. Weight Application: A standard weight (e.g., 500 grams) was placed on the top plate.
3. Measurement: After 1 minute, the diameter (or area) of the spread serum was measured in two perpendicular directions (length and width) using a ruler or caliper.
4. Calculation: Spreadability was calculated using the formula

Spredability = weight applied× diameter / time [16].                    

4.5 Solubility Test

The solubility test of chamomile face serum in ethanol and water evaluates the ability of chamomile extract to dissolve uniformly in these solvents. A satisfactory solubility test indicates that the chamomile extract is properly dispersed and dissolved, ensuring consistent delivery of its active compounds. The test assesses solubility in Following Solvent :

• Ethanol: Evaluating solubility in organic solvents
• Water: Assessing solubility in aqueous solutions
  6. Non-Irritancy: Serum was applied to this area and the time was noted. Then, every 24 hours, irritation, redness and possible swelling are checked and reported. [17].

4.7 Identification test 

The identification test of chamomile flower powder in which main chemical active component are such as chamazulene , bisabolol, Apigenine, flavanoid compound and more are used to treat on anti aging , skin moisturizering and skin regeneration Enhance skin properly.

4.7.1 Chamazulene : Chamazulene is a sesquiterpene hydrocarbon derived from matricin during steam distillation. It is not present in the fresh plant but forms during processing Chamazulene gives chamomile oil a light blue color.

4.7.2 Luteoline : Luteolin, a flavonoid compound in chamomile face serum responsible for an orange color, Further research might be needed to identify specific orange-colored constituents.

4.7.3 Bisabolol : Bisabolol is a monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, found in high concentrations in German chamomile. Bisabolol shows up as a spot (color varies depending on the reagent, often deep blue  after spraying)

4.7.4 Apigenin : is a natural plant flavonoid found in high concentrations in chamomile, parsley, celery, and other herbs.  It plays a significant role in the therapeutic properties of chamomile, especially for skin health. Apigenin shows a  green coloration due to its conjugated double bond system and flavonoid structure.[18].

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Fig No:4.1 Identification test serum

4.8 Phase separation

The phase separation test is a stability test used to assess whether a face serum remains physically uniform over time or under different storage conditions. Serums, especially those containing both oil and water components, can be prone to separation if the formulation isn’t stable. Phase separation occurs when the ingredients in a like oils, water, extracts  and emulsifiers start to separate into distinct layers instead of remaining as a single, smooth mixture. This can affect the serum appearance, texture and performance.

 4.8.1 Phase Separation Test Process

1. Sample Preparation: Pour the chamomile face serum into clear containers and seal tightly.
2. Storage Conditions: Store samples under different conditions e.g., 4°C (refrigeration), 25°C (room temp), and 40°C (accelerated conditions).
3. Observation Period: Monitor over a period of days to weeks.
4. Observation: Visually inspect for any signs of separation, such as layers, oil pooling, or sedimentation.
5. Documentation: Record the time and conditions under which phase separation occurs.[19].

4.9 Anti microbial Assay

An antimicrobial assay is a laboratory test used to evaluate the ability of a substance to inhibit the growth of or kill microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi or yeast. This type of test is essential in assessing the antimicrobial properties of products like face serums, especially those containing natural extracts or preservatives.

One common method is the agar diffusion assay, where the test substance is applied to an agar plate inoculated with a specific microorganism. If the substance is effective, it creates a clear zone around it, known as the zone of inhibition, indicating microbial growth suppression. These assays help ensure the product’s safety, stability and effectiveness in preventing microbial contamination.

4.9.1 Antimicrobial Assay Process for Face Serum

1. Preparation of Nutrient Agar

2. Inoculation of Microorganism

3. Application of Face Serum:

Incubate the plates at 35–37°C for 24–48 hours [20].

5] RESULTS

Chamomile face serum shows promise in anti-aging skincare by formulation and evaluation of chamomile face serum are promising, With potential advancements in anti-aging skincare. The optimized formulation may lead to Enhanced skin elasticity, reduction in fine lines and improved collagen synthesis due to the Synergistic effects of chamomile, polyglutamic acid (PGA) and other bioactive ingredients.

1. Colour: The Chamomile Face serum exhibited a slightly Yellow or golden color, indicating a clean and pure formulation.
2. Odour: The   Face serum had a Mild and soothing Scent, likely due to the presence of Chamomile extract, which is known for its distinct aroma.
3. Texture: The texture of the Chamomile face serum was smooth, lightweight and easily absorbed formulation.
4. pH [potential of hydrogen]

pH of is evaluated by pH meter. The pH meter was calibrated with a standard buffer solution. Almost 1 ml of facial serum was accurately weighed and dissolved in 50 ml of distilled water and finally its pH was calculated. The skin has an acidic range and the pH of the skin serum should be in the range of 5.1 which is slightly acidic and suitable for skin application.

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            <img alt="pH Test of Face Serum.png" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250513212716-5.png" width="150">
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Fig No: 5.2 pH Test of Face Serum

5. Viscosity Test

The chamomile Face serum had a smooth consistency and range of viscosity is 220 cp of formulation. For an anti-aging face serum, optimal viscosity ensures smooth application, efficient absorption of active ingredients and a pleasant texture, enhancing the overall effectiveness of the product in reducing signs of aging.

6. Spreadability Test: The spreadability of the  was measured at 7-10 g cm/sec, suggesting a good balance between viscosity and flow ability.

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            <img alt="Spreadability Test.png" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250513212716-4.png" width="150">
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Fig No: 5.3 Spreadability Test

7. Solubility Test: The Chamomile Face serum was soluble in water and ethanol indicating its potential for easy removal and cleansing.

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Fig No:5.4 Solubility

8. Non-Irritancy Serum was applied to this area and the time was noted. Then, every 24 hours, irritation, redness and possible swelling are checked and reported. According to the result, there were no signs of irritation, erythema or swelling in the composition.

9. Identification test: The identification test of chamomile flower powder in which main chemical active component are such as chamazulene, bisabolol, Apigenine, flavonoid compound and more are used to treat on anti-aging , skin moisturize ring and skin regeneration Enhance skin properly .