Formulation & Evaluation Of Herbal Sunscreen In Combination With Olive Oil Useful For Various Skin Benifits

Understanding Sunscreens and Their Role in UV Protection

UV protection is becoming increasingly popular due to sunscreen’s crucial role as a photoprotective agent. Sunscreens are applied topically with the primary purpose of preventing, healing, and protecting the skin from sunburn, suntan, premature aging, and even severe conditions such as skin cancer. By escalating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) level, sunscreens help provide an essential barrier against harmful UV radiation, which can cause long-term damage to the skin. Sunscreen formulations function by absorbing, reflecting, or scattering UV radiation to mitigate excessive sun exposure. The two main types of UV rays—UVA and UVB—are responsible for a range of skin issues, including melanoma, sunburn, photoaging, and skin pigmentation. The presence of key bioactive components such as flavonoids, phenolic compounds, and herbal oils enhances the photoprotective ability of sunscreens by offering antioxidant, wound-healing, antifungal, anti-aging, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antiproliferative properties. These natural compounds are particularly effective in absorbing UV radiation in the UVA spectrum, thus reinforcing the skin’s defense mechanism.

Challenges with Synthetic Sunscreens

While a variety of sunscreen formulations are available in the market to protect against sunburn and skin cancer, a market survey has revealed that many synthetic sunscreen agents pose potential health risks. Some reported adverse effects include:

• Cell Mutation – Changes in cellular structure due to prolonged chemical exposure.
• DNA Damage – Disruptions at the molecular level that can lead to skin disorders.
• Hormonal Alteration – Some chemical filters mimic or interfere with hormone functions.
• Eczema & Allergic Reactions – Certain ingredients can trigger skin irritation and allergies.

Many commercial formulations, despite their multifunctional sun protection properties, contain synthetic molecules that are toxic and, in some cases, even carcinogenic. Additionally, these formulations tend to be expensive, making it essential to develop safer and cost-effective alternatives with natural ingredients.

Importance of Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates the level of protection a sunscreen provides against UVB radiation, which is the primary cause of sunburn. Sunscreens undergo rigorous testing to determine the amount of UV exposure required to cause sunburn with and without sunscreen application. Based on this evaluation, the product is assigned an appropriate SPF value.

• Higher SPF values (up to SPF 50) offer greater protection against sunburn.
• SPF values primarily measure UVB protection, while broad-spectrum sunscreens provide both UVA and UVB defense.
• Since June 2011, sunscreens that meet broad-spectrum testing requirements can officially claim to offer UVA protection as well.

For optimal sun protection:

• Choose a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 for regular use.
• If you have fair or sensitive skin, opt for a higher SPF of 30 to 50.
• Reapply sunscreen every 2 hours, especially if swimming or sweating.
• Always check the label for proper application instructions, as different forms (such as sprays) have specific usage guidelines.

Types of Sunscreens

Sunscreens are available in various formulations to suit different skin types and preferences:

• Lotions – Most commonly used, offering even application and hydration.
• Creams – Ideal for dry skin, providing intense moisturization.
• Sticks – Convenient for targeted application, especially around the eyes and lips.
• Gels – Suitable for oily or acne-prone skin, as they are lightweight and non-greasy.
• Oils – Often used for tanning but may provide limited protection.
• Butters – Thick and nourishing, commonly used for extra hydration.
• Pastes – Highly protective, often used for extreme sun exposure conditions (e.g., sports and outdoor activities).

By incorporating natural ingredients and avoiding harmful synthetic chemicals, sunscreen formulations can be made safer, more effective, and environmentally sustainable. The shift towards herbal and antioxidant-rich sunscreens is a promising advancement in photoprotection, ensuring long-term skin health and wellness.

In herbal sunscreen formulations, olive oil plays a role as both a natural emollient and a potential UV filter, contributing to skin nourishment and offering some degree of sun protection. Olive oil is known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the skin, making it a valuable ingredient for sunscreen formulations. Some studies suggest that olive oil, especially extra-virgin olive oil, may possess a certain level of UV protection. Olive oil can be combined with other herbal oils and extracts, such as carrot extract or clove oil, to create effective and natural sunscreen products.

2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE
   1. Gonzales-Castañeda C et al. (2011) [36]

Study type in preclinic (mice) on plant species like Lepidium meyenii Walp. Biological phototropic ingredients found that antioxidant and UV absorption properties, increases the epidermal level of SOD and catalase, reduction of lipid peroxidation.Active ingredients found in this is flavonoids.

1. 2. Bennet D et al, (2014) (7)

Study type in preclinic on plant species like Mulus domestica Baumg epicarp. Biological photoprotective effects found that superior photoprotective capacity, Flexible nanoparticles that cross the stratum corneum. Active ingredients found that ethanol extract transformed into nanoparticles (emulsion-solvent-evaporation method )

1. 3. Kushwaha Det ol. (2021) [63]

Study type in vitro, simulated medie on plant species like Tagetes patula L.- leaves, flower.Active Ingredients Found carotenoids, flavonoids. Studied that they absorb most of UV radiation enhanced photoprotecive effect spf leave-10 & spf flower- 15. Biological Photoprotecive Property Found Is they absorb most of UV radiation enhanced photoprotective effect spf leave-10 & spf flower- 15

1. 4. Lassoued MA et al. (2021) [64]

Study type in vitro stimulated media on plant species like Carpobrotus edulis (L.) N.E.Br. - leaves. Biological phototropic effects found that strong photoprotective effect directly proportional to concentration, good antioxidant action. Active Ingredients Found are catechin, procyanidol B2, dihydromyricetin, syringethin-3-0-rutinoside.

1. 5. Kurzawa M et al. (2022) [62]

Study type in clinical on plant species like Calendula officinalis L. flowers Doucus corota L... ront Solanum lycopersicum L. -fruits Humulus lupulus L.-pseudocons..Active Ingredients Found Is polyphenols, carotenoids.Biological Photoprotecive Property Found Is in high concentration they have a strong photoprotective effect, the highest UV absorption capacity: Calendula, the highest content of polyphenols and the highest antioxidant activity: Humulus.

1. 6. Dewage DDDH et al. (2022) [23]

Study type in vitro, simulated   on plant species like Psidium guajava L.-leaves, fruit pulp, Biological photoprotective effects are found that the leaf extract has the most intense antioxidant and ROS scavenging activity, SPF30.38 at a concentration of 2 mg/m. Acive ingredients are phenolic compounds

1. 7. Imene B et al. (2022) [48]

Study type in vitro stimulated media on plant species like Limonium delicatulum Kuntze - leaves. Biological phototropic effects found that nhibits enzymes: cetylcholinesterase, butyrylcholinesterase, alpha-glucosidase, alpha-amylase, urease, lipase, strong antioxidant action (SPF – 35.5).Active Ingredient Found in this are  phenolic compounds: beta-salvianolic acid, resveratrol glycosidate = polydatin.

1. 8. Mirata S et al. (2023) [74]

Study type in vitro, on cell culture on plant species like Ericaria amentacea (brown algae). Biological photoprotecive effects found that in culture of keratinocytes and fibroblasts exposed to UV: restoration of cell viability.decrease of intracellular oxidative stress decrease in the level of IL-1heta, II 6. IL-8 decrease in the activity of catalase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase.active ingredients found that meroditerpenes cystochetal, cystochetal dehydrogenate, Cystochetal chromanic)

1. 9. Mirata S et al. (2023) [74]

Study type in  vitro, on cell culture on plant species like Ericaria amentacea (brown algae). Biological photoprotecive effects found that in culture  of keratinocytes and fibroblasts exposed to UV: - restoration of cell viability - decrease of intracellular oxidative stress -decrease in the level of IL-1beta, IL-6, IL-8 - decrease in the activity of catalase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase.active ingredients found that meroditerpenes (cystochetal, cystochetal dehydrogenate, cystochetal chromanic.

1. 10.  Erick N et al. (2024) [29]

Study type in preclinic (mice) on plant species like Lopezia racemosa Cav. - leaves, flowers.Biological phototropic effects found that antioxidant action, free radical scavenging action, absorbs UVA, UVB, UVC,  decreased epidermal hyperplasia in CD 1 et/et mice.Active ingredients found that luteolin-6-C-hexoside, luteolin, luteolin-8C-hexoside, quercetin-3-0-hexoside

3.  RATIONAL OF THE STUDY: -

- NEED OF WORK: -

Due to the hasty-paced life of today, our life is affected by pollution and harsh synthetic chemicals, hence, nature has rendered us with its everlasting notable ingredients of herbal. The major cause of sunburn is UV rays which leads to precarious skin cancer. Sunscreen is a topical product that absorbs or reflects some of the sun’s UV radiation on the skin from excessive exposure to UV radiation. It has the potential to prevent sunburn & reduce the harmful effects of the sun such as premature aging & skin cancer. The Present research work portrays the formulations & evaluation of topical photoprotective, containing antioxidant, anti-malignant, wound healing, antifungal, antiaging, moisturizer, antiinflammatory, antiproliferative activity.

- OBJECTIVES: -

• To protect the skin from harmful UV radiation
• Reduce sunburn and other skin damage
• Lower the risk of skin cancer
• Leveraging the natural properties of herbs and minimizing the use of potentially harmful chemicals.
• To develop sunscreen formulation using herbal ingredients
• To perform physicochemical characterization
• To achieve maximum stability of formulation
• To achieve maximum UV protecting effect
• To develop various formulation
• To inhibit the transmission of UV radiation into the skin

4. PLAN OF WORK: -

• Literature Survey
• Selection Of Herbs
• Formulation Of Herbal Sunscreen
• Evaluation Of Herbal Sunscreen

a. Rancidity

b. PH Determination

c. Procedure

d.  Viscosity

• Result & Discussion
• Conclusion
• References

5.                MATERIALS FOR FORMULATION OF HERBAL SUNSCREEN:

1) Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa)

It is obtained from the fat of the shea nut. The shea tree originates from the savannas of Africa. Its potential is to melt at body temperature and to absorb rapidly into the skin and it gives results without leaving a greasy feeling. It is used as an antioxidant and it contains vitamins like A and E, both of which enhance skin cell regeneration and circulate blood below the skin’s surface. The oil contains Cinnamic acid and provides vital protection against precarious UV ray.

Fig. 5.1 Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa)

2) Beeswax (Cera alba)

It is derived from honeybees of the genus Apis, and it is a natural wax. Mainly Beeswax foundation is used as an emulsifier and thickener and can also be used for emulsion stabilization. Beeswax is used for melting the solids to facilitate the mixing with the water phase’s ingredients by heating and mixing method. Its most important purpose is  to compose a creamy texture.

Fig. 5.2 Beeswax (Cera alba)

3) Rose Water (Rosa damascena)

It is extracted from the rose by liquid-liquid extraction [9]. One of the most important factors is that they have a good source of antioxidant activities and be used for beautifying purposes for their sterling sunscreen.

Fig. 5.3 Rose Water (Rosa damascena)

4. Gelatin

Its hydrolysates procured from fish gelatin of tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) were found to possess a scavenging effect against reactive oxygen species of UV that renders precarious effects to the skin. It is a novel source of components that have potential in skin anti-aging products and is also used as an emulsifying agent.

Fig. 5.4 Gelatin

5) Olive oil (Olea europaea)

It is a fat derived from the olive fruit. Olive oil is made up of triglyceride esters of oleic acid and palmitic acid along with traces of squalene, sterols, (phytosterols, and tocosterols), and consists of polyphenols like esters of Tyrosol and hydroxyl tyrosol including oleocanthal and oleuropein. Some flavonoids and lignans are also present. Olive oil has been used as a home remedy for skin care. Squalene is utilized as an antioxidant, and moisturizer, and in topical sunscreen preparation, it is a convenient vehicle to carry other substances

Fig. 5.5 Olive oil (Olea europaea)

6) Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)

It is a tropical plant that grows and is cultivated numerously by Indonesian people [21]. It contains fatty acids and is reported to possess antioxidant properties photoprotection, and other medicinal activities like anti-bacterial, skin barrier repair, anti-aging, wound healing, and moisturizing in atopic dermatitis treatment.

Fig. 5.6 Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)

7) Carrot Seed Oil (Daucus carota)

It is an essential oil, and it renders a significant role of antioxidant, antiseptic, antifungal, and fragrant properties with high levels of vitamin An and provides protection from the sun. According to a study, Carrot Seed Oil has a natural SPF of 38 and 40, which was published in “Pharmacognosy Magazine” in 2009

Fig. 5.7 Carrot Seed Oil (Daucus carota)

8) Almond Oil

It is the richest source of polyphenolic compounds especially flavonoids and phenolic acids. Its potential is that the property of UVB protection of this plant’s skin extract and its topical application has significant antioxidant, skin brightening, and anti-photo aging properties

Fig. 5.8 Almond Oil

 9) Rosehip Seed Oil (Rosa canina)

It is the richest source of vitamin C, carotenoids, polyphenols, and different flavonoids that show antioxidant properties [33,34,35]. In addition, it has strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that stimulate the synthesis and restoration of collagen [36,37]. It has anti-aging properties and acts as a moisturizer.

Fig. 5.9 Rosehip Seed Oil (Rosa canina)

Extraction Process Of Olive Oil :

1)  Olives are harvested and washed to remove debris.

2) They are then crushed into a paste, traditionally using stone crushers, but modern machines like hammer mills and grinders are also used.

3) The paste undergoes malaxation, which is a stirring process to prepare it for oil extraction.

4) The solids and liquids, including water and oil, are separated from the paste.

5) Modern mills use advanced decanting and centrifugation machines to separate the oil from the paste.

6) The oil is then filtered and bottled.

Formulation of herbal sunscreen: -

2. METHOD AND EVALUATION

6.1 Method Of Preparation Of Herbal Sunscreen

STEP 1

Melt beeswax and Shea Butter in a china dish after that add Almond Oil, Coconut oil, Rosehip Seed Oil, Carrot Seed Oil, and Olive Oil in measured quantities and heat up to 75?.

STEP 2

Add Rose Water and Gelatin in another china dish in measured quantity. Heat the mixture up to 75?.

STEP 3

Mix both the mixture and stir gently until a smooth cream is formed at room temperature

6.2 Evaluation Of Herbal Sunscreen

Rancidity -

Rancidification is the process of complete or incomplete oxidation or hydrolysis of fats and oils when exposed to air, light, or moisture or by bacterial action, resulting in an unpleasant taste and odor. Rancidity is performed by using the Phloroglucinol solution. The rancidity is due to the oxidation of the fats and oils; during oxidation free fatty acids are liberated. These free fatty acids react with the Phloroglucinol solution and give pink color indicating the rancidity of

the product. 10 ml of cream was taken then added 10 ml of concentrated Hydrochloric acid and 10 ml of Phloroglucinol solution and shaken for one minute. The cream should have passed the test if no pink color develops.

PH Determination -

PH denotes “Potential of Hydrogen” and is a scale used to specify the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution. Acidic

solutions are measured to have lower pH values than basic or alkaline solutions. The cream in general has a pH of 6 to 9

Procedure -

All the formulations were water in oil emulsion. The pH of the cream is measured by making a 10% dilution of the cream and the pH is measured by the pH meter. The electrode must be washed and free from any residue of acid and alkali to ensure an accurate reading.

Viscosity -

Viscosity is an important parameter in the evaluation of the cream. Viscosity governs many properties of the cream such as spread ability, pouring ability of the cream from the container, etc. The viscosity of formulation was determined by using Brookfield Viscometer and Viscosity was found to be in the range of 28000-32000 cp.

Evaluation Of Herbal Sunscreen: -

Table 6.1 Evaluation of herbal sunscreen

Role of Olive Oil in Herbal Sunscreen

Olive oil in herbal sunscreen offers moisturizing and antioxidant benefits, helping to hydrate and protect skin from sun damage and premature aging, while also potentially aiding in wound healing and reducing inflammation.

Here's a more detailed look at the benefits:

1) Hydration and Moisture Retention:

Olive oil acts as a natural emollient, meaning it helps to soften and moisturize the skin by locking in moisture and preventing it from drying out. This is particularly beneficial for dry or sensitive skin, as it can help soothe and protect against irritation.

2) Antioxidant Protection:

Olive oil is rich in antioxidants, including squalene and vitamin E, which help to protect the skin from free radical damage. These antioxidants can help combat signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

Some studies suggest that olive oil may even help prevent or reverse damage from cancer-causing ultraviolet radiation.

3) Wound Healing and Anti-inflammatory Properties:

Olive oil has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which can aid in wound healing. It may help promote the healing of diabetic foot ulcers and prevent pressure ulcers.

4) Other Potential Benefits:

Some research suggests that olive oil may help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

It can also help to cleanse the skin gently, removing makeup, dirt, and impurities without stripping the skin's natural oils. Olive oil can also help soothe dry or irritated skin.  

6.3 An Ideal Herbal Sunscreen Agent Should Have Following

Characteristics

1) Absorb light preferentially over the range of 280mm –320mm.

2) Be stable to heat;’ light and perspiration.

3) Be non-toxic and non-irritant.

4) Not be rapidly absorbed.

5) Be rapid soluble in suitable vehicle.

6) Be neutral.

Advantages of Herbal Sunscreens 

1) Easily available.

2) No side effect.

3) No special equipment needed for preparation.

4) Renewable resources.

5) Botanical ingredients are easily available.

6) They are inexpensive.

7) Do not prove Allergy

Disadvantages

1) They are difficult to hide taste and odour

2) Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated

3) Herbal drugs have slow effects as compared to allopathic dosage form it also requires long term therapy.

Storage Of Herbal Sunscreen

To keep your sunscreen in good condition, the FDA recommends that sunscreen containers should not be exposed to direct sun. Protect the sunscreen by wrapping the containers in towels or keeping them in the shade. Sunscreen containers can also be kept in coolers while outside in the heat for long periods of time. This is why all sunscreen labels must say: "Protect the product in this container from excessive heat and direct sun.

Benefits of sunscreen

1) Reduce risk of skin cancer

2) Protect against sunburn

3) Avoid inflammation and redness

4) Avoid blotchy skin and hyperpigmentation

5) Stop DNA damage

6) Prevent the early onset of wrinkles and fine lines) Lower skin cancer risk

2. RESULT AND DISCUSSION:

Results of our study revealed that 100% of the selected herbal sunscreens are photostable in the UVB range, and 71% of them exhibit stability in both UVA and UVB ranges. This indicates the efficacy of the herbal ingredients used in these formulations to provide long-lasting sun protection. The subjective study, based on in vivo SPF determination, demonstrated that 98% of the sunscreens effectively shield the skin from sunburns, reinforcing their protective capability. The overall data obtained from quality evaluation studies confirm that all tested products are safe, efficacious, and suitable for regular use. The total SPF obtained from the developed formulation was found to be 34 SPF, offering broad-spectrum protection against harmful ultraviolet rays. Exposure of human skin to UV radiation leads to the oxidation of cellular biomolecules, which can result in cellular damage, premature aging, and even DNA mutations leading to skin-related diseases. Chronic exposure to environmental stressors, including pollutants and UV irradiation, accelerates skin aging, a process known as photo-aging. Natural plant-based ingredients have long been recognized for their multifunctional benefits in skincare formulations. Many herbal extracts and seed oils are incorporated into cosmetic formulations due to their functional properties, including their roles as emollients, anti-irritants, antioxidants, moisturizers, and anti-aging agents.

In this study, we focused on utilizing potent seed oils such as Pomegranate Seed Oil, Carrot Seed Oil, and Almond Oil, all of which are renowned for their exceptional benefits in skincare. Pomegranate Seed Oil is rich in polyphenols and punicic acid, which exhibit strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that help in repairing and regenerating damaged skin cells. Carrot Seed Oil is widely recognized for its natural SPF-enhancing properties and its ability to protect against both UVA and UVB rays, making it an ideal ingredient for sun care formulations. Additionally, Almond Oil, which is packed with essential fatty acids, vitamin E, and anti-inflammatory compounds, provides deep hydration, soothes irritated skin, and combats premature aging. Based on the findings of this study, it can be concluded that the formulated herbal sunscreen cream is one of the best antioxidant creams with effective sun-screening properties. Its broad-spectrum UV protection, combined with the healing and nourishing effects of herbal ingredients, makes it a promising natural alternative to conventional synthetic sunscreens, which often contain chemical filters with potential side effects. This formulation provides an excellent balance of sun protection, hydration, and skin repair, making it suitable for daily skincare routines.

Fig. 7.1 Herbal Sunscreen