Formulation and evaluation of Polyherbal face scrub using dragon fruit

The skin is the largest organ of the body and protects it from physical, chemical, and microbial harm. The outermost skin layer, called the stratum corneum, is made of dead cells that are naturally removed over time ^[1]. However, pollution, sunlight, excess oil, and poor hygiene can cause dead cells and dirt to build up on the skin ^[2]. This buildup can cause acne, dullness, uneven skin, and early aging ^[3]. In cosmetic products, mainly skin-care formulations such as cleansers, moisturizers, scrubs, and masks etc. are widely used to maintain the skin healthy and prevent dermatological problems ^[4].Definition of cosmetic as per Food drug and Cosmetic act: Cosmetics are defined as Article meant to be poured, rubbed, sprinkled, Sprayed, or injected into the human body for Cleansing, beautifying, boosting attractiveness, or Altering appearance without harming structure of Function ^[1].A face scrub is a semi-solid cosmetic product that contains small exfoliating or abrasive particles. These particles help to remove dead skin cells, dirt, and excess oil from the skin surface by gentle rubbing action ^[5]. This process of exfoliation helps to clean the skin deeply, make the skin surface smooth, and improve blood circulation in the skin. Scrubbing also helps other skincare products penetrate better into the skin, making them more effective ^[6].Gels are semi-solid dosage forms and are widely used among cosmetic preparations because of their light texture and easy application. Face scrubs prepared in gel form offer several advantages, such as being non-greasy, easy to spread, and comfortable on the skin. The presence of fine exfoliating particles in gel scrubs increases their popularity, as they effectively remove dead skin cells and impurities while leaving the skin healthy, fresh, and naturally glowing ^[7].Herbal scrubs use natural exfoliating agents which are biodegradable and gentle on the skin. Herbal face scrubs are considered safer, more eco-friendly and better suited for sensitive skin than chemically formulated scrubs. Because of safety concerns and the growing preference for natural cosmetics, herbal face scrubs have become more popular in modern skincare ^[8].On the other hand, many synthetic scrubs contain microplastic beads or strong chemicals that can irritate the skin and harm the environment. Therefore, the formulation and evaluation of herbal face scrubs have gained much attention in cosmetic science ^[9].

BENEFITS OF FACE SCRUB GEL

• It helps to prevent premature aging of skin.
• It prevents the formation of wrinkles, fine lines and sagging of skin.
•  The harmful effects of pollution and harsh climates can be reduced by the use of scrub gel.
•  The scrub gels are used regularly for glow, improve skin texture and complexion.
• It helps to restore the lost shine and glow of skin in short span of time.
• Helps to reduce, acne, pimple, scars and marks [10].

MATERIALS AND METHOD

Materials: Red dragon fruit powder, alovera gel, carbapol 940, phenoxyethanol, triethanolamine, SLS, rose water, turmeric, poppy seed, distilled water

Equipment’s: beaker, measuring cylinder, glass road

Instruments: Digital weighing balance, Mechanical stirrer

HERBAL INGREDIENTS

1. Dragon Fruit Powder

Figure No: 1 Dragon fruit powder

• Synonym: pitaya, pitahaya, strawberry pear.
• Biological source: Dragon fruit is obtained from the dried pulp of the fruits of Hylocereus undatus (white-fleshed variety) or Hylocereus polyrhizus.
• Family: Cactaceae
• Description: Colour - pinkish red to deep magenta (depending on variety), Odor- mild, pleasant, Taste- slightly sweet and earthy.
• Constituents: contains betalanins (betacyanins, betaxanthins), vitamin C, polyphenols, flavonoids, dietary fibers, and minerals such calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus. The red variety rich in antioxidant.
• Uses:  > Acts as a natural coloring agent in cosmetic formulations.

   >Possess anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory,       and anti-ageing property [11]

    2. Turmeric powder

Figure No:2 Turmeric powder

• Synonym: Haldi, Haridra, Curcumin.
• Biological source: Turmeric consist of dried as well as fresh rhizomes of the plant Curcuma longa.
• Family: Zingiberaceae.
• Description: Colour- Brilliant yellow, Odor- mildly aromatic, Taste- Pleasantly bitter and earthy.
• Constituents: Non-volatile curcuminoids and the volatile oil Curcuminoids contain, curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin.
• Uses: > Anti-septic.

         > Anti-inflammatory.

        >Anti-bacterial.[13].

3. Aloe vera gel

Figure No: 3 Aloe vera gel

• Synonym:  Aloe barbadensis Mill,Curacao Aloe,Cape Aloe (from Aloe ferox), Socotrine Aloe, Indian Aloe.
• Biological source: Aloe consists of the dried latex (juice) obtained from the leaves of Aloe barbadensis Miller.
• Family: Asphodelaceae (formerly Liliaceae).
• Description:  Parenchymatous tissue of the leaf) Colourless, mucilaginous, transparent pule. Contains no bitter taste (distinguishing it from latex).
• Constituents: Acemannan (β-(1→4)-acetylated mannan), Glucomannans, Pectins, Vitamins (A, C, E, B-complex), Amino acids, Sterols (lupeol, campesterol, β-sitosterol)
• Uses: >Wound healing, burns, skin hydration, Anti-inflammatory, soothing effect

         > Used in cosmetics, dermatology products, Promotes tissue repair

          > Reduces acne and pigmentation.

          > promotes glowing skin

         >Used in digestive health supplements [12].

4. Poppy seed

Figure No: 4 Poppy seed

• Synonym: Khash khash, Post dana, Papaver somniferum.

• Biological source: Poppy seed is obtained from the dried ripe fruits (capsules) of Papaver somniferum.
• Family:  Papaveraceae.
• Description: Color – Greyish white to bluish black.

                       Odor – Mild, nutty aroma.

                       Taste – Sweet and nutty.

• Constituents: Poppy seeds contain fixed oil (30–50%), proteins, carbohydrates, and minerals such as calcium, iron, and phosphorus.
• Uses:  > Used as a natural emollient

           > skin conditioner in cosmetic and    pharmaceutical formulations.

           >It helps to moisturize dry skin, reduce irritation

           > promote a soft and smooth texture.

           >A natural,gentle exfoliant that helps to removes dead skin cells ^[15].

EXCIPIENTS

FORMULATION TABLE.

Table no 1: Formulation of polyherbal face scrub gel;

PROCEDURE FOR POLYHERBAL FACE SCRUB  

PREPARATION OF GEL BASE: Weigh required quantity of distilled water and rose water together in a clean beaker at room temperature. Sprinkle required quantity of carbapol 940 slowly into the water with continuous stirring to avoid lumps. Allow it to hydrate for 24 hours. If it contains small lumps, use a homogenizer (use moderate speed) or a spatula to break them up.

PREPARATION OF FACE SCRUB: Dissolve required amount of SLS into a small portion of water and then add into the prepared gel with stirring. Mix dragon fruit powder, turmeric powder in a separate small container to get an even blend. Slowly incorporate these powders into the hydrated carbapol gel while mixing to avoid clumping. Add alovera gel into the above mixture and stir continuously until it mixes properly. Slowly add triethanolamine dropwise while stirring. Gelation will occur; viscosity will increase. Monitor pH-target pH 5.5-6.5. add TEA bit at a time-stop when desired viscosity and pH are reached. Add phenoxy ethanol into the gel and mix gently. Finally add poppy seed and mix slowly evenly suspend them. Check final pH, viscosity and appearance.

EVALUATION OF POLYHERBAL FACE SCRUB

The evaluation of a face scrub is necessary to ensure its quality, safety, effectiveness, and acceptance by users. This evaluation parameter provides information about the stability, quality, usability, and skin safety of the face scrub formulation ^[14].

1.Organoleptic Properties

Visual observation of face scrub was done to evaluate the following parameters;

• Color

• Oduor

• Texture

• Consistency

2.Consistency
The consistency of the formulation and particles were used to check the texture and other properties of the preparation on the skin such as stiffness, greasiness effect. Preparation found semisolid in nature ^[15].

3.Spreadability
The sample was taken and applied between two glass slides and it was made to compress by keeping 100g weight for 5 minutes then the slide is removed and spreadability was measured ^[16].

S = ml/t

Where,

• S= spreadability.

• m= weight placed on slide.

• l= length of glass slide.

• t= time taken in seconds.

4. Viscosity

Viscosity of the formulation was determined by brook field viscometer at 100 rpm, using spindle number 7. The scrub sample was placed in the sample holder of the viscometer and allowed to settle for 5 minutes, and viscosity measured ^[17]

5. Irritability Test

A small amount of scrub can be applied on the skin and kept for few minutes, check whether there is irritancy ^[18].

6. Washability

Take a little amount of prepared scrub and applied it on the skin, then rinsed with normal water ^[19].

7. Grittiness

The grittiness test for face scrub involves evaluating the texture and abrasiveness of its exfoliating particles. This test is carried out by inspecting the product visually and also, by rubbing a small amount between fingers to assess the grittiness of the particle ^[20].

8. Foamability

Foamability shows how well the face scrub produce foam during use, especially in formulations containing surfactants ^[21].  It is tested by shaking a diluted sample in a measuring cylinder and noting the amount of foam formed. Good foamability helps in better cleansing and user satisfaction ^[22].

9. Stability Studies

The objective of stability studies is to ensure that product will remain stable still the consumer has used the entire product. The stability not only indicates stability of base formulation but also indicates the stability of other ingredients present in formulation. So, the stability study of prepared face scrub was carried out at room temperature and accelerated condition to check the physical characteristics such as color, odor, pH and consistency ^[23].

10. Evaluation of pH of Face Scrub

The pH was determined by using a digital pH meter with pH value was found in the range of 3-6 for the scrub, which are considered to be acceptable to avoid the risk of irritation ^[24].

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The formulated face scrub was evaluated for various physicochemical parameters. The results obtained from these evaluation studies are given below;