IVM's Krishnarao Bhegade Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research, Talegaon Dabhade, Pune Maharashtra, 410507.
As the body’s largest organ, skin protects against germs, regulated body temperature and enable touch (tactile) sensations. The skin’s main layers include Epidermis, Dermis and Hypodermis and is prone to many problems, including skin cancer, acne, wrinkles and rashes. A moisturizing cream is a cosmetic preparation used for protecting, moisturizing and lubricating the skin. These functions are normally performed by sebum produced by healthy skin. A Moisturizer is also called as Emollient. The word “Emollient” is derived from the Latin verb “Mollire” means “to soften”. In human body, water constantly evaporates from the deeper layers of the skin through an effect known as Transepidermal Water Loss. Moisturizers modify the rate of water loss, with active ingredients of moisturizers falling into one of two categories – Occlusives and humectants. Rice Water, Aloe Vera and Coconut Oil are used as the main ingredients in moisturising cream. It was evaluated and analysed based on physiochemical parameters such as efficiency, stability studies.
Creams are considered an important part of cosmetic product as topical preparations from time immemorial due to their ease of application to the skin and their removal. From cosmetic purposes, pharmaceutical creams have a variety of applications such as cleansing, beautifying, altering appearance, moisturizing etc. to skin protection against bacterial, fungal infections as well as healing cuts, burns, wounds on the skin. These semi solid preparations are safe to use by the public and society. The human skin is easily vulnerable to injury but it has the capability to heal on its own. However, the natural healing process can take time and there is also risk of infection especially in the early stages of injury. In such cases, medicated creams can be applied to the site of injury to speed up the healing process as well as protect the wound from infection. In this review, we have focused on the use of topical drug delivery system i.e. pharmaceutical creams for wound healing with detailed discussion relating to the wound healing process, suitable methods of preparation of creams, their classification based on their function, their advantages and disadvantages, characteristics and the various types of creams, ingredients used in the formulation of creams and their various evaluation parameters (1). Moisturizers are commonly used to reduce fine lines, smoothen and hydrate skin which may improve a patient’s social life, psychological satisfaction, and quality of life. Moreover, either normal skin or dermatoses with dry skin symptoms may both gain optimal benefit from proper utilization of moisturizers. Impression of skin dryness consist of visible and tactile changes of the skin as well as alteration in skin’s sensory components, which presents as dry skin symptoms. These symptoms include dryness feeling and discomforts; consist of tightness, pain, itch, stinging, and tingling. Moisturizers work effectively to overcome dry skin underlying dermatoses, interrupting dry skin cycle while maintaining skin smoothness (2).
Moisturizers also have several benefits aside from skin moistening. Some of the possible functions provided by moisturizers are as follows:
Water-based moisturizers provide cooling effect from water evaporation on the skin surface, and some moisturizers may contain menthol as additive, which provides cooling sensation and therefore reducing itch symptoms (3).
Mineral oils possess low-grade epidermal antimitotic properties and bring therapeutic benefit for dermatoses with increased epidermal mitotic activity such as psoriasis.
Hyaluronic acid has been demonstrated to promote wound healing acceleration (2).
ADVANTAGES:
1. The main advantage of herbal moisturizer is that it enhances the Skin Dryness without any Side effects.
2. It reduces the further chances of skin problems.
3. This moisturizer helps to fight wrinkles (4).
4. Less greasy compared to other ointments.
5. Moisturizing help your skin stay young.
6. With small quantity they are very effective as compared to synthetic cosmetics (5).
DISADVANTAGES:
1. Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosages form Also it requires long term therapy.
2. Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated (5).
3. Most of herbal drugs are not easily available.
4. They are difficult to hide taste and odour (6).
Skin Anatomy:
Skin is the largest organ in the body and covers the body’s entire external surface. It is made up of three layers, the epidermis, dermis, and the hypodermis, all three of which vary significantly in their anatomy and function. The skin’s structure is made up of an intricate network which serves as the body’s initial barrier against pathogens, UV light, and chemicals, and mechanical injury (46). It also regulates temperature and the amount of water released into the environment. This article discusses the relevant anatomical structures of the skin’s epidermal layer, its function, embryology, vascular supply, innervation, surgical considerations, and clinical relevance (7).
Layers of Epidermis:
The layers of the epidermis include the stratum basale (the deepest portion of the epidermis), stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum, and stratum corneum (the most superficial portion of the epidermis).
Fig. No. 1: Structure of the skin
1) Keratinocytes
2) Melanocytes
3) Langerhans’ cells
4) Merkel’s cell
Keratinocytes are the predominant cell type of epidermis and originate in the basal layer, produce keratin, and are responsible for the formation of the epidermal water barrier by making and secreting lipids. Keratinocytes also regulate calcium absorption by the activation of cholesterol precursors by UVB light to form vitamin D.
Melanocytes are derived from neural crest cells and primarily produce melanin, which is responsible for the pigment of the skin. They are found between cells of stratum basale and produce melanin. UVB light stimulates melanin secretion which is protective against UV radiation, acting as a built-in sunscreen. Melanin is produced during the conversion of tyrosine to DOPA by the enzyme tyrosinase. Melanin then travels from cell to cell by a process that relies on the long processes extending from the melanocytes to the neighbouring epidermal cells. Melanin granules from melanocytes are transferred via the long processes to the cytoplasm of basal keratinocyte. Melanin transferred to neighbouring keratinocytes by “pigment donation” involves phagocytosis of tips of melanocyte processes by keratinocytes (11).
Langerhans cells, dendritic cells, are the skins first line defenders and play a significant role in antigen presentation. These cells need special stains to visualize, primarily found in the stratum spinosum. These cells are the mesenchymal origin, derived from CD34 positive stem cells of bone marrow and are part of the mononuclear phagocytic system. They contain Birbeck granules, tennis racket shaped cytoplasmic organelles. These cells express both MHC I and MHC II molecules, uptake antigens in skin and transport to the lymph node (45).
Merkel cells are oval-shaped modified epidermal cells found in stratum basale, directly above the basement membrane. These cells serve a sensory function as mechanoreceptors for light touch, and are most populous in fingertips, though also found in the palms, soles, oral, and genital mucosa. They are bound to adjoining keratinocytes by desmosomes and contain intermediate keratin filaments and their membranes interact with free nerve endings in the skin.
Dermis:
The dermis is connected to the epidermis at the level of the basement membrane and consists of two layers, of connective tissue, the papillary and reticular layers which merge without clear demarcation. The papillary layer is the upper layer, thinner, composed of loose connective tissue and contacts epidermis. The reticular layer is the deeper layer, thicker, less cellular, and consists of dense connective tissue/ bundles of collagen fibers. The dermis houses the sweat glands, hair, hair follicles, muscles, sensory neurons, and blood vessels (12).
Hypodermis:
The hypodermis is deep to the dermis and is also called subcutaneous fascia. It is the deepest layer of skin and contains adipose lobules along with some skin appendages like the hair follicles, sensory neurons, and blood vessels (11).
Moisturizing Cream:
Moisturizer is a cosmetic preparation used for protecting, moisturizing, and lubricating the skin.
These are creams which restore water (moisture) to the stratum corneum.
Classification:
There are four main types of moisturizers depending on their mechanism of action.
1) Emollients
2) Humectants
3) Occlusives
4) Protein rejuvenators
1. Emollients:
2. Humectants:
3. Occlusives:
4. Protein rejuvenators:
Various types of marketed Moisturizing Creams:
Fig. No. 2: Types of Marketed Moisturizing Cream
Role of Moisturizers:
Mechanism of action:
Ideal characteristics of moisturizing cream:
1. Reduce and prevent further TEWL.
2. Restore the lipid barrier, i.e., duplicating and enhancing the skin’s moisture retention mechanisms (20).
3. Hypoallergenic, non-sensitizing, fragrance-free.
4. Absorbed immediately, providing immediate hydration.
5. Cosmetically acceptable (19).
Advantages of using moisturizing cream:
1. Moisturizing reduces the chances of skin problems.
2. Moisturizing can reduce the appearance of other blemishes.
3. Moisturizing helps your skin stay young (21).
4. Moisturizing fights wrinkles.
5. It is the perfect end to a hot shower (43).
6. Non-irritating when applied to the skin.
7. Easily water washable (20).
8. Less greasy compared to ointment.
9. Easy to spread on the skin’s surface (22).
Disadvantages of using moisturizing cream:
1. Stability is not as good as ointment.
2. They are less hydrophobic than other semi-solid preparations, so the risk of contamination is higher than the others (20).
3. Skin irritation or contact dermatitis may occur due to the drug and/or excipients.
4. Poor permeability of some drugs through the skin. Possibility of allergic reactions (19).
5. Can be used only for drugs which require very small plasma concentration for action (22).
3. Literature Survey
1. Prachi. D. Barsagade (2020): Rice herbal face cream is a skincare item made with rice-based ingredients that are reputed to provide positive skincare effects. Antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals found in rice are said to nourish the skin, keep it hydrated, and encourage a more even complexion. Additionally, rice-based herbal extracts may be relaxing and anti-inflammatory, which may be able to calm sensitive skin and lessen redness.
2. Joana Marto, Angela Neves (2018): The rice water obtained after boiling the rice presented in-vitro biological antioxidant activity comparable to that of ascorbic acid and remarkable elastase inhibition activity. Its incorporation into a cream formulation has led to the development of a semisolid dosage form suitable for topical application and with adequate cosmetic properties. Rice Water should be considered as an anti-aging ingredient to be used in skincare products.
3. Yash Chaudhari, Yachika Chaudhari (2023): Rice herbal face cream is a skincare item made with rice-based ingredients that are reputed to provide positive skin care effects. Antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals found in rice are said to nourish the skin, keep it hydrated, and encourage a more even complexion. Additionally, rice-based herbal extracts may be relaxing and anti-inflammatory, which may be able to calm sensitive skin and lessen redness.
4. Cynthia Cobb, Royce. G. Morse (2019): Rice Water - The water left over after you cook rice has long been thought to promote more beautiful skin. It is said to soothe and tone your skin, and even improve different skin conditions. Rice Water contains substances known to help protect and repair your skin.
5. Zawn Villines (2020): Rice water consists of the starchy liquid left over after soaking or boiling rice. Rice Water may have some benefits for the skin. It was found that rice water reduced the activity of elastase, an enzyme involved in skin aging.
6. Maja Wilna (2023): Rice (Oryza sativa L) constitutes a fundamental food product for almost half of the world’s population. It is a complex matrix composed of carbohydrates, proteins, fibres, vitamins, and numerous essential elements including Ca, Cu, Mg, Mn, etc. Rice is not only a popular food product but also a promising ingredient in skin or haircare products and cosmetics.
7. Reema Patel (2020): Many people use rice water for the skin either to improve its appearance or to ease conditions such as eczema. Rice water consists of the starchy liquid left over after soaking or boiling rice. Some beauty companies claim Rice Water has anti-aging properties.
8. Krisha Dev (2021): Skin Care cosmeceuticals such as facewash, moisturizers, creams, sunscreens, etc are meant for modify and treat skin imperfections. These preparations have both therapeutic and cosmetic effects.
9. J. Manosroi, C. Chankhampan (2020): The Cream containing rice extract gives not only the suitable in-vitro antioxidant activity and physical stability of the active anthocyanins, but also the superior in-vivo anti-aging activity on human skin compared to the cream base and before application which can be further developed as a novel anti-aging cosmeceutical products.
10. Suekanya Jarupinthusophon (2022): Rice is used as a traditional medicinal plant against beriberi, inflammation, gastrointestinal and skin ailments. Rice also provides a source of nutritional benefits such as thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin E, iron, zinc, etc.
4. Aim and Objectives
Aim: The aim of our work is to formulate and evaluate herbal Moisturizing Cream.
Objective:
1. Identification and collection of required Ingredients.
2. Preparation of herbal Moisturizing Cream.
3. To study the evaluation parameters of herbal Moisturizing Cream.
5. Need of Work
Increasing environmental degradation due to improper waste and skincare product disposal calls for the development of safe, biodegradable, and natural alternatives.
Many consumers are unaware of the harmful effects of synthetic skincare products, necessitating educational efforts through product innovation and research.
With a growing trend toward herbal and chemical-free products, there is a strong need to formulate effective and safe herbal moisturizing creams.
The prevalence of skin conditions like dryness, irritation, and sensitivity highlights the demand for moisturizing creams that soothe and protect naturally.
The use of herbal and natural ingredients supports environmental sustainability and reduces reliance on non-renewable resources.
Utilizing traditional herbal ingredients promotes indigenous knowledge systems and encourages their scientific validation.
Natural moisturizers are generally safer and have fewer side effects compared to synthetic creams, making them ideal for sensitive skin.
There is a continuous need for research in cosmetic sciences to create improved formulations with enhanced therapeutic and aesthetic benefits.
This project contributes to the growing cosmeceutical industry by introducing a herbal moisturizing formulation with proven evaluation parameters.
6. Material and method of preparation
Ingredients used in Moisturizing Cream:
A) Rice water:
Fig. No. 3: Rice Water
Rice water preparation by three different procedures:
1) Water prepared by the boiling process (RWB): 400 g of paddy rice whole grains were boiled in 1 L of deionized water for 30 min. Rice water was filtered through cotton gauze and frozen at -30 °C until used.
2) Water prepared with the intact grain (RWM): 400 g of paddy rice whole grains were mixed with 1 L of deionized water and left to shake, at room temperature, for 24 hrs. Rice water was then filtered through cotton gauze and frozen at -30 °C until used.
3) Water prepared with the crushed grains (RWS): 400 g of paddy rice grains were ground into smaller pieces using a kitchen robot for 10 s, mixed with 1 L of deionized water, and left to shake at room temperature for 24 hrs. Rice water was then filtered through cotton gauze and frozen at -30 °C until used (23).
Synonyms:
Biological Source:
Oryza sativa L.
Family:
Poaceae
Uses:
B) Aloe Vera:
Fig. No. 4: Aloe Vera
The botanical name of Aloe vera is Aloe barbadensis miller. It belongs to Asphodelaceae (Liliaceae) family, and is a shrubby or arborescent, perennial, xerophytic, succulent, pea-green colour plant. It grows mainly in the dry regions of Africa, Asia, Europe and America. In India, it is found in Rajasthan, Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Maharashtra and Tamil Nadu (25).
Uses:
C) Rose Water:
Fig. No. 5: Rose Water
Rose water is created by distilling rose petals with steam. Rose water is fragrant, and it is sometimes used as a mild natural fragrance as an alternative to chemical-filled perfumes (29).
Uses:
One of the greatest benefits of rose water is its strong anti-inflammatory properties. These properties can help treat multiple ailments, both internal and external. It may even help soothe the irritation of eczema or rosacea (28).
Rose water has been used as a beauty product for thousands of years, so it is no surprise that it can improve your complexion and reduce skin redness. The antibacterial properties may help reduce acne. The anti-inflammatory properties can reduce skin redness and puffiness (30).
Rose petals and rose oil contain a number of powerful antioxidants, which can help protect cells from damage. One study found that these antioxidants had potential lipid peroxidation inhibitory effects. This provides powerful cell protection as a result (29).
Rose water is often found in beauty products aimed to reduce wrinkles. That’s because it may actually have anti-aging effects. In addition to soothing irritated skin, it may reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically (31).
D) Coconut Oil:
Fig. No. 6: Coconut Oil
Glycerine:
Fig. No. 7: Glycerine
E) Vitamin E:
Fig. No. 8: Vitamin E
Formulation table:
Table No. 1: Formulation Table of Herbal Moisturizing Cream
Sr. no. |
Ingredients |
Quantity |
Role |
1. |
Rice water |
5ml |
Anti-ageing agent |
2. |
Aloe Vera |
3gm |
Smoothening agent |
3. |
Rose water |
2ml |
Perfume |
4. |
Coconut oil |
1ml |
Conditioning agent |
5. |
Glycerine |
2ml |
Moisturizing agent |
6. |
Vitamin – E |
0.1ml |
Preservative |
7. |
Bees wax |
4gm |
Emulsifying agent |
8. |
Liquid paraffin |
2ml |
Lubricating agent |
Preparation of herbal Moisturizing Cream:
Formulation can be prepared by adding two different phases which are as follows:
Phase -1: (Oil phase)
Weigh 4 gm beeswax, 3 ml liquid Paraffin and 1 ml coconut oil. Add above ingredients into a china dish. place this China dish into a water bath for about 10-15 minutes at 65-70°C. Mix and heat the content until the bees wax melts completely. Here forms the oil phase (36).
Phase-2: (Aqueous phase)
For phase-2, take 5 ml prepared rice water in a beaker. Add 3 gm aloe Vera into the beaker. Mix the contents properly (37).
Phase -3: (Mixing)
Mix the aqueous phase into the oil phase.
Phase-4: (Add excipients)
After complete mixing, add preservatives like Vitamin-E (0.1 ml) Also add Glycerine (2 ml) and Rose Water (2 ml) for Moisturizing and perfume purpose (36).
7. Evaluation parameters
The organoleptic properties like colour, odour, and physical appearance of the cream should be observed (38).
Fig. No. 9: Physical Evaluation
Weigh 0.5gm of cream is dissolved in 50 ml of distilled water, and the pH is measured with the help of a digital pH Meter (39).
Viscosity of the Cream is determined with the help of a viscometer.
Homogeneity is studied via visual appearance and test (42).
Fig. No. 10: Homogeneity
The cream sample is applied between two glass slides and compressed. A 100-gm weight is placed on top for 5 minutes, and additional weight is added to the weighing pan. The time in which the upper glass slide moves over the lower glass slide is measured. In this way, the Spreadability test is performed (40).
Fig. No. 11: Spreadability test
Mark an area on the left-hand dorsal surface. The cream is applied on the specified area, and the time is noted. Irritancy, edema, and erythema are checked after 24 hours of the application of the cream (41).
Fig. No. 12: Irritancy Test
Fig. No. 13: Washability Test
8. RESULT AND DISCUSSION
Parameter |
Observation |
Discussion |
Homogeneity |
Cream showed good homogeneity |
Indicates uniform distribution of ingredients, contributing to smooth texture and ease of application. |
Texture |
Smooth |
Enhances user experience and application comfort. |
Spreadability |
Optimal Spreadability |
Allows easy application over skin with minimal effort, increasing user compliance. |
pH |
Skin-friendly range |
Suitable for topical application; does not disturb natural skin pH. |
Washability |
Easily washable |
Convenient for users; leaves no greasy residue. |
Stability |
Stable |
Maintains its physical and chemical properties over time, important for shelf life and effectiveness. |
Moisturization |
Enhanced hydration due to rice water, aloe vera, glycerine |
Natural ingredients provide prolonged moisturization and soothing effect. |
Anti-aging |
Effective due to antioxidants from rice water and Vitamin E |
Reduces signs of aging, improves skin elasticity and texture. |
Eco-friendliness |
Herbal ingredients support sustainability |
Promotes use of biodegradable, non-toxic components which are environmentally friendly. |
Cost-effectiveness |
Budget-friendly formulation |
Utilizes readily available natural ingredients, lowering production costs. |
9. CONCLUSION
Natural beauty is a valuable blessing, and cosmetics play a significant role in enhancing and presenting the beauty and personality of individuals. In traditional times, people used various methods such as lepa, alepa, pralepa, udavartan, and prakshalan as part of their saundryaprasadan karma (beautifying rituals). Among the natural ingredients used, rice water stands out as a potent element due to its richness in antioxidants, Vitamin E, and essential amino acids necessary for maintaining healthy skin. Today, herbal cosmetics have gained immense popularity owing to their multiple advantages. These products are widely accepted for daily use because they are believed to be effective and safe, unlike many synthetic alternatives that often come with side effects. The growing preference for natural over chemical-based personal care items has contributed to the rise in demand for herbal cosmetics. They are not only safe and effective for all skin types but also cruelty-free, budget-friendly, and available in a wide variety. As a result, herbal cosmetics have become a prominent and preferred choice in modern skincare regimes.
REFERENCES
Darshan Patkar*, Priyanka Panmand, Akshada Karad, Chaitanya Gaikwad, Kaveri Jigjeni, Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Moisturizing Cream, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2025, Vol 3, Issue 7, 3720-3737. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.16522490