P. R. Patil Institute of Pharmacy.
This study aims to formulate and evaluate a peel-off facial mask using fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) as a primary active ingredient. Fenugreek seeds possess potent anti- inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties, making them suitable for topical application in skincare products. The mask formulation was evaluated for its physicochemical properties, skin compatibility, efficacy in oil and impurity removal, and user satisfaction. Results suggest that fenugreek-based peel-off masks have significant potential in improving skin texture and reducing acne without causing irritation. . We have made these formulation using PVA, preservative, humectant, fenugreek, SLS, etc. In this study, F1, F2, F3 formulation batches of peel off mask were prepared and evaluated by checking its viscosity, pH, spreadability, color, odor, etc. After doing evaluation of these batches, batch F3 was showing optimum result and safe for skin radiance and rejuvenation. Therefore, these fenugreek-based peel off mask would be a good alternative instead of other peel off gel mask.
Herbal cosmetics are defined as the beauty products which pass desirable physiological activity such as healing, soothing, appearance, enhancing skin glow and conditioning properties because of herbal ingredients. These herbal cosmetics that can repair revitalize and protect skin. One of the most common disorders found among youngsters usually 18-25 years of age is Acne, aging [1]. As we get older, the skin will experience an aging process. It is caused by various factors from within and outside the body. Factors from outside the body, such as exposure to sunlight, can cause skin damage. The process of damaging the skin will appear dull and wrinkled, the skin will age faster, and black spots will appear. Exposure to sunlight from ultra violet rays and it is a components that contributes to various diseases of skin [2]. Peel-off mask have been developed especially for cosmetic treatment which is used in beauty salon. Peel-off mask is applied directly on the skin because the formulation is in ready to use form. When it applied on skin and it slowly hardens, moisture collects in the horny layer under the elastic mask film, through which air and water is not allowed to permeate. At the same time,the main active substances and other are able to penetrate well into the skin and intensively supply the substances within a short space of time[3]. Skin is a very sensitive and protective layer of the human body, which is exposed to environmental pollution hence, it is very essential to protect the skin. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of facial skin to overcome the problem associated with it, one of which is taking care of facial skin by using face masks. Peel-off mask is applied as a liquid film that thinly spreads with fingers on the face and peels-off as a thin plasticized film after complete drying without leaving any residues. It can repair, refresh, and tighten facial skin, provides deep pore cleansing and skin debris removal. Peel-off can also provide slight moisturizing action and enhances the occlusive effect, improving blood circulation [4]. UV light is oxidative because it can induce oxidative stress by producing free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS). The presence of ROS that accumulates in the skin is believed to be an inducer of cell damage, premature aging, erythema, and skin cancer. Antioxidants can inhibit oxidation or radical reactions caused by oxygen or peroxide so that these free radicals can be suppressed. Currently, the use of synthetic antioxidants used in industry is being avoided due to the health risks and toxicity. Therefore, the use of antioxidants from natural sources can be formulated to prevent oxidation to replace synthetic antioxidants [2]. The use of cosmetics containing antioxidant compounds can prevent premature aging due to free radicals. Various types of skin care cosmetic preparations have been circulating in the market in attractive dosage forms and packaging, including the peel-off gel mask. Peel-off facial masks are unique in that they form a film after the mask is dry and provide several benefits including easy use, improving the appearance of facial skin by providing a skin tightening effect, and cleansing the skin of impurities. Anti-aging are preparations that function to inhibit the process of damage to the skin (degenerative), and to inhibit the appearance of signs of aging on the skin. One type of preparation that can be used in anti-aging products is a peel-off mask preparation[2].
1.1 Anatomy of Skin:
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Figure 1: Longitudinal Section Of Skin
Skin, also known as the integumetary system, is the largest organ in our body, covering the entire external surface; measuring up to 2m and weighing approximately 4.5−5kg in an average adult (or about 12−15% of total adult body weight).Skin is the first physical barrier protecting us from the external environment. Skin is made of three layers: the outermost layer the epidermis, the structure below it, the dermis and the structure below the dermis known as the subcutaneous tissue[5].
A. Epidermis: Consists of epithelial cells. Among these cells, both living cells and dead cells can be found. These new cells at the bottom of epidermis divide fast and push the older cells upward. The epidermis does not have any direct source of blood veins to provide nutrition. It takes its nutrients from the diffusion of necessary molecules from a rich vascular network in the underlying dermis. Epidermal cells are connected very strongly by desmosomes.
Epidermis consists of five layers, namely from inside to outside; stratum germinativum (basal layer) stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum and stratum corneum. Stratum corneum is the outer most layer of epidermis and has a thickness of 10-20 µm when it is dry and 40 µm when it is hydrated and becomes swollen. Stratum corneum has a structure of “bricks and mortar” arrangement. In this model the keratin rich corneocytes (bricks) are sitting in the intracellular lipid rich matrix Corneocytes (the bricks) create 85 % of stratum corneum and intracellular lipids (15%) are arranged in 15-20 layers. Stratum corneum consists of 70% proteins, 15% lipids and only 15% water. Molecules can basically permeate through skin by two different pathways. The first pathway is called transapendagle route. In this route the molecules should permeate through skin by permeation through sweat glands and across the hair follicles. The number of molecules which can penetrate through this pathway is very limited. The second pathway of penetration through skin is the trans epidermal pathway. In this pathway molecules should pass through stratum corneum as multi-layered barrier. This pathway has two micro pathways; the intracellular micro pathway and the transcellular micro pathway [ 6].
B. Dermis:
Dermis is positioned under epidermis and is characterized by lots of elastin fibres that provide the stretching ability as well as lots of collagen that provides the strength to the skin. Blood vessels found in dermis provide nutrients for both dermis and epidermis. Dermis also plays a major role in temperature regulation. Nerves present there are responsible for pressure and pain sensations34. Dermis has a thickness of 3-5 mm. In addition to elastin fibres, blood vessels an nerves, an interfibrillar gel of glycosaminoglycan, salt, water, lymphatic cells and sweet glands are parts of dermis.
Cell types found in dermis are:
C. Hypodermis: The hypodermis is the subcutaneous layer lying below the dermis; it consists largely of fat. It provides the main structural support for the skin, as well as insulating the body from cold and aiding shock absorption. It is interlaced with blood vessels and nerves [8].
1.2 Function and Physiology Of Skin:[9]
‘Beauty is skin deep’, is a common adage. The health and colour status of the skin not only reflects its health status but skin as an organ also has a number of vital roles in the physiology of the body. Many significant functions of the skin are mentioned below:-
1.3 Common Disorder of The Skin:[10]
As we mentioned earlier that cosmetics are basically for beautification and masking, prevention or overcoming common disorder, it is necessary to have knowledge of common disorder of the skin. Common disorder of skin can be classified as follows:
[A] Pigmentary disorder
[B] Disorder of sebaceous and sweat glands
[C] Skin scaling disorder
1.4 Aging:[11]
Aging is a lifelong process of growing up and growing old. It begins at conception and ends with death. So, in this sense, we are all aging from the time of birth. In our younger years, aging is called by other names. For example, in our infant years, we call aging “growth and development.” In our teenage and young adult years, we refer to aging as “maturation.” After age 30, our physical body begins to wear out and our functioning declines. This is called “senescence.”
A. Growth and development: In our infant years
B. Maturation: In our teenage and young adult years and
C. Senescence: After age 30. So, aging should be explained based on these three parts.
1.Chronological Aging
2.Biological Aging
3.Psychological Aging
4.Social Aging
5.Functional Aging
1.5 Anti-Aging:[12]
Skin aging is characterized by features such rough-textured appearance. This aging process is accompanied with phenotypic changes in cutaneous cells as well as structural and functional changes in extracellular matrix components such as collagens and elastin. Cutaneous aging is induced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging is an inevitable physiological process that results in thin, dry skin, fine wrinkles, and gradual dermal atrophy, while extrinsic aging is engendered by external environment factors such as air pollution, smoking, poor nutrition, and sun exposure, resulting in coarse wrinkles, loss of elasticity, laxity, and rough-textured appearance. The decrease of moisture content of the skin will lead to the decine of protease activity, causing the skin peeling, so moisture is an essential part of anti-aging. Moisturizing agents currently used in anti-aging cosmetics mainly include: pyrrolidone, sorbitol, glycerol, polyethylene glycol, cholesterol and, hyaluronic acid and other. The photoaging and natural aging together, cause the skin barrier degradation and the formation of wrinkles and pigmentation.
1.6 Peel Off Mask Gel: [ 13]
Peel-off facial masks gel are known for their unique characteristics inherent to the use of film-forming polymers that, after complete drying, create a very cohesive plastic layer allowing for the manual removal of the product without leaving any residue. In addition, the firming action of these formulations leads to a sensation of clean skin. Moreover, it also provides slight moisturizing action and enhances the effect of the active compounds on the epithelium, especially as a result of the occlusive effect caused by the plastic polymeric layer Peel-off masks work by penetrating deep into your pores and gently removing the dead cells in the outermost layer of your skin, along with any impurities sitting over it. Removing dirt, bacteria, debris, and overall impurity is essential to have balanced, toned, healthier skin. This is where peel-off masks shine.
1.6.1 Types of Facial mask divided into four groups:[4]
1. Peel off: Applied to the skin, allowed to dry for 15 minutes then peeled off as one continuous sheet. They are ideal to provide a purifying and renewing perception as well as action. They effectively remove the very outer layer of old, dead skin cells.
2. Sheet: Sheet masks are the most versatile because they are effective serum formulations with actives added to achieve the product purpose, e.g: • Anti-sebum • Whitening • Anti-aging [14].
3. Charcoal/clay: These types of masks are essential cream cleansers with the charcoal or clay added. This also helps build the viscosity [15].
4. Leave-on: These kinds of masks come in crème-gel or cream forms that are extremely moisturizing. They are applied to the skin, kept on for 15 to 30 minutes (or overnight), and then the remaining product is rubbed in. They are meant to deliver more moisture and emollience than regular creams, hence they have greater lipid and humectant content[16].
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Figure 2: Types Of Peel Off Mask
1.7 What Is The Right Way To Use A Peel-Off Mask [17]
1.Start with clean, dry skin. Ensure that your face is free from makeup, dirt, and oil.
2.Open the peel-off mask tube and squeeze out an adequate amount of product onto your fingertips.
3.Apply the mask evenly to your face, avoiding the eye area.
4.Allow the mask to dry completely. This usually takes around 15-20 minutes.
5.Once the mask is fully dry, gently start peeling it off from the edges. Start from the bottom and peel upward in an upward motion.
6.Rinse off any residue with lukewarm water and pat your skin dry.
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Figure 3: Peel Off Face Mask
1.8 Ideal Properties:[18]
1.9 Advantage of Peel Off Gel Mask [19,20]
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Figure 4: Advantages Of Peel Off Mask
1.10 Do or Don’t Peel Off Mask:
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Figure 5: Do Or Don’t of Peel Off Mask
Literature Review:
3. Objective:
Objectives: -
4.2 Ingredients Table:
Table 1: Ingredient Table:
Ingredients |
Category |
Fenugreek powder |
Anti-aging |
Sandalwood |
Soothing & Aromatic |
Polyvinyl Alcohol |
Film former |
Propylene Glycol |
Plasticizer & Humectant |
Glycerin |
Moisturizer |
Sodium lauryl Sulphate |
Surfectant |
Methyl Paraben |
Preservatives |
Propyl Paraben |
Preservatives |
Disodium EDTA |
Antioxidant & Chelating Agent |
Triethanolamine |
pH Adjuster |
Orange Oil |
Fragrance |
Water |
Base |
4.3 Drug Profile:
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<img alt="Fenugreek Seed.png" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-12.png" width="150">
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Figure 6: Fenugreek Seed
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<img alt="Sandalwood Powder.jpg" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-11.jpg" width="150">
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Figure No 7: Sandalwood Powder
PVA full form is polyvinyl alcohol. Polyvinyl alcohol is a man-made or synthetic polymer. PVA polymer molecule contains vinyl and alcohol groups. It is a very useful polymer due to its adhesive properties. PVA is water soluble, crystalline and flammable in nature. Presence of alcohol group in it makes it flammable.
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<img alt="Polyvinyl Alcohol.jpg" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-10.jpg" width="150">
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Figure 8: Polyvinyl Alcohol
Physical Properties of PVA:
PVA shows high tensile strength and flexibility. It is soluble in water and has no odour. PVA molecular weight or polyvinyl molecular weight ranges between 26,00030,000. Its melting point is 185°C. It is insoluble in organic solvents but slightly soluble in ethanol. Chemical Properties of PVA Polyvinyl alcohol can react with butyraldehyde and formaldehyde. It is atactic type material and resistant to oil and grease.
Act as plasticizer. Maintain elasticity of formulation.
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<img alt="Propylene Glycol.jpg" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-9.jpg" width="150">
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Figure 9: Propylene Glycol
It is a simple triol compound. It is humectant,a type of moisturizing agent that pulls water into outer layer of skin from deeper levels of your skin and the air.
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<img alt="Glycerin.jpg" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-8.jpg" width="150">
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Figure 10: Glycerin
It is used as a preservative in the formulation.
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<img alt="Methyl Paraben.jpg" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-7.jpg" width="150">
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Figure 11: Methyl Paraben
It is also used as a preservative in the formulation.
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<img alt="Propyl Paraben.jpg" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-6.jpg" width="150">
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Figure 12: Propyl Paraben
(chemical formula - C10H16N2Na2O8) is a chelating agent, used to sequester and decrease the reactivity of metal ions that may be present in a product. This white, water-soluble solid is widely used to bind to metal ions like iron and calcium ions and prevent the deterioration of cosmetics and personal care products. Disodium EDTA thus enhances stability of cosmetics.
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Figure 13: Disodium EDTA
It acts as an alkali in the formulation. It is also used to raise the pH of certain mixtures, as well as acts as an emulsifier.
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<img alt="Triethanolamine.jpg" height="150" src="https://www.ijpsjournal.com/uploads/createUrl/createUrl-20250426184050-4.jpg" width="150">
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Figure 14: Triethanolamine
4.4 Method of Preparation: -
Experimental Procedure:[20]
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Figure 15: Filteration Of fenugreek Extract
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Figure 16: Formulation Of Peel Off Mask
4.5 Formulation of Peel Off Mask:
Table 2: Formulation Of Peel Off Mask
Ingredients |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
Fenugreek |
1gm |
1gm |
1gm |
Sandalwood |
0.5gm |
0.5gm |
0.5gm |
Polyvinyl alcohol |
8gm |
7gm |
10gm |
Propylene glycol |
2ml |
2ml |
2ml |
Glycerin |
5ml |
5ml |
5ml |
Sodium lauryl sulphate |
0.25gm |
0.25gm |
0.25gm |
Methyl paraben |
0.1gm |
0.1gm |
0.1gm |
Propyl paraben |
0.025gm |
0.025gm |
0.025gm |
Disodium EDTA |
0.05gm |
0.05gm |
0.05gm |
Triethanolamine |
Q.S. |
Q.S. |
Q.S. |
Orange Oil |
Q.S. |
Q.S. |
Q.S. |
water |
100ml |
100 ml |
100 ml |
4.6 Evaluation of Peel Off Gel:
1] Organoleptic properties:[27]
We have done visual inspection of product and observed that it was: -
a) Colour: - yellowish
b) Odour: -scanted
c)State: -semi solid
d)Consistency: -smooth and thick
2] pH:[40]
Skin's natural pH is slightly acidic, around 4.5 to 5.5. A peel-off gel slightly above skin’s natural pH (but still under 7) is effective at removing impurities and gentle enough to avoid irritation, dryness, or disruption of the skin barrier.
3] Spreadability Test: [41]
Spreadability: -M*L/T
Where,
4] Drying Time: [35]
5] Folding endurance: [4]
The formulation film was applied onto the skin .After drying, a portion of film (3*3cm)was cut and folded it at the Small place until it was broken. Folding endurance can be defined as the value of number of times the film can be folded without folding.
6] Skin Compatibility & Irritation Test: [4]
5. RESULT AND DISCUSSION: -
The prepared peel-off mask formulations (F1, F2, and F3) were evaluated based on various parameters such as pH, washability, spreadability, skin irritation, peeling time, stability, tensile strength, and film-forming ability. The results are tabulated in Table 4 and discussed below:
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Figure 17: - Evaluation Test
5.Peeling Time: The time required for the mask to peel off was 17 minutes for F1, 16 minutes for F2, and 15 minutes for F3. F3 demonstrated the quickest drying time, which could enhance user compliance, especially for time-conscious consumers.
6.Stability: F1 was only partially stable, F2 was moderately stable, and F3 was highly stable. Stability is a critical factor for product shelf-life and effectiveness, indicating that F3 is the most reliable in this regard.
7.Tensile Strength: Tensile strength was moderate for F1 and F2, and good for F3. This suggests that F3 forms a stronger and more elastic film, which aids in uniform peeling without breakage.
8. Film-Forming Ability:F1 showed mild film-forming ability, while F2 and F3 showed good and very good film-forming properties respectively. A good film is essential for the mask’s effectiveness in removing dirt and impurities from the skin.
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Figure 18: - Strength Of Peeling
Table 3: Evaluation Parameters for Peel Off Gel
Parameter |
Colour |
Odour |
Consistentancy |
Washability |
F1 |
Yellowish |
Orange |
Semi solid |
Good |
F2 |
Yellowish |
Orange |
Semi solid |
Good |
F3 |
Yellowish |
Orange |
Semi solid |
Good |
Table 4: Evaluation Parameter Data
Parameter |
Observation |
Observation |
Observation |
Formulation |
F1 |
F2 |
F3 |
pH |
4 |
5.9 |
6 |
Washability |
Washable |
Washable |
Washable |
Spreadability |
6 cm |
7 cm |
6 cm |
Skin irritation |
Yes |
No |
No |
Peeling time |
17 min |
16 min |
15 min |
Stability |
Partially stable |
Moderate stable |
Highly stable |
Tensile strength |
Moderate |
Moderate |
Good |
Film forming ability |
Mild |
Good |
Very Good |
Topical peel-off gel formulation was prepared by using Fenugreek powder as the main drug, which was already known for its Anti-aging, Anti-acne, Anti- inflammatory activity and also having the property to treat oily skin and other skin related problems. There are 3 batches of topical peel-off gel formulation were prepared. Among all batches F1, F2 and F3, batch F3 can be considered the optimal formulation for peel off mask, balancing efficacy, safety, and user satisfaction. Thus, this fenugreek-based peel-off gel formulation could be the safe and efficacious remedy for treating this skin related disorders and could be the safe alternative for other peel off gel mask .
REFERENCES
Nandini Band, Nikhil Samarth*, Mohit Sonare, Mahesh Gadge, Research Article on Formulation and Evaluation of Peel Off Mask Using Fenugreek Seeds, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2025, Vol 3, Issue 4, 3236-3255 https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.15287366