SSS’s Divine College of Pharmacy, Satana, Nampur Road, Satana, Nashik, Maharashtra, India 423301.
This review aims to evaluate the cosmetic and exfoliating properties of Linum usitatissimum L. (flaxseed) and to highlight its potential as a natural, sustainable skincare ingredient. A comprehensive literature review was conducted using scientific databases to collect data on the phytochemistry, mechanisms of action, cosmetic formulations, and exfoliating properties of flaxseed. The study analyzed bioactive components such as alpha-linolenic acid, lignans, mucilage, and phenolic compounds for their dermatological relevance. Additionally, evidence from in vitro, ex vivo, and limited clinical studies was critically assessed to understand flaxseed’s multifunctional role in hydration, anti-aging, and exfoliation. Flaxseed oil demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties due to its rich content of omega-3 fatty acids and lignans. Mucilage polysaccharides showed strong film-forming and moisturizing abilities, enhancing skin hydration and barrier function. Ground flaxseed particles served as effective, biodegradable exfoliants, while mucilage-based systems promoted gentle enzymatic desquamation. The combination of these effects supports skin smoothness, elasticity, and rejuvenation. However, formulation stability, standardization of bioactives, and variability in extraction processes remain key challenges that need further optimization. Flaxseed is a promising botanical for cosmetic use, offering biocompatible, eco-friendly, and multifunctional benefits. Continued research and standardization can establish flaxseed as a reliable natural alternative to synthetic cosmetic agents in modern skincare formulations.
Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.), commonly referred to as linseed, is one of the oldest cultivated plants known for its multifaceted applications in nutrition, medicine, and cosmetics. Belonging to the family Linaceae, flaxseed has gained renewed scientific and industrial interest due to its rich composition of bioactive compounds such as alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), lignans (notably secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, SDG), phenolic acids, flavonoids, and mucilage polysaccharides[1]. Traditionally valued for its nutritional and therapeutic effects, flaxseed is increasingly recognized in the cosmetic industry for its skin-conditioning, moisturizing, and exfoliating properties that align with the global shift toward natural and sustainable ingredients[2,3].
In cosmetic formulations, flaxseed oil and extracts serve as potent emollients and antioxidants. The high content of ω-3 fatty acids contributes to the restoration of skin barrier function, reducing transepidermal water loss and promoting elasticity [4]. The mucilage fraction, a hydrocolloid polysaccharide, forms a protective film over the skin surface, providing hydration and soothing effects ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. Lignans and polyphenols further enhance anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits by neutralizing reactive oxygen species, mitigating photoaging, and improving overall skin texture. These attributes make flaxseed a versatile ingredient for creams, serums, masks, and exfoliating formulations [5].
The exfoliating potential of flaxseed arises from its mild abrasive nature when ground, combined with its enzymatic and mucilaginous activity that assists in gentle desquamation. Unlike synthetic exfoliants, flaxseed-based scrubs offer a biodegradable and skin-friendly alternative that supports both physical and biochemical renewal of the stratum corneum. Furthermore, its bioactives aid in balancing sebum production, promoting cell turnover, and alleviating inflammatory skin conditions such as acne and eczema [3].
Given the increasing consumer demand for botanical, eco-friendly cosmetics, flaxseed represents a promising natural resource that merges efficacy with sustainability. This review aims to compile and critically analyze existing literature on the cosmetic and exfoliating properties of flaxseed, elucidating its mechanisms of action, formulation potential, and future prospects in skin care applications [6].
Fig. 1: Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.)
Table No. 1: Profile of Flaxseed
|
Parameter |
Details |
|
otanical Name |
Linum usitatissimum L. |
|
ommon Names |
Flaxseed, Linseed |
|
Family |
Linaceae |
|
Plant Type |
Annual herb |
|
Origin |
Middle East, cultivated worldwide |
|
Seed Type |
Small, oval, brown or golden |
|
Key Nutrients |
Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), lignans (SDG), fiber, protein, vitamins (B1, B6), minerals (Mg, Mn, P) |
|
Bioactive Compounds |
Omega-3 fatty acids, lignans, phenolic acids, flavonoids, mucilage |
|
Health Benefits |
Cardiovascular protection, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, digestive health, antidiabetic potential |
|
Cosmetic Uses |
Skin hydration, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, hair conditioning |
|
Traditional Uses |
Laxative, wound healing, respiratory support |
|
Forms Available |
Whole seeds, oil, powder, extracts |
|
Mechanism of Action (Key Bioactives) |
ALA: anti-inflammatory; SDG lignans: antioxidant; mucilage: emollient and soothing |
|
Precautions |
May interact with blood thinners; high doses may cause gastrointestinal discomfort [1-6]. |
2. Phytochemistry of Flaxseed
The functionality of flaxseed in topical formulations is attributable to several chemical classes:
Oils:
Lignans:
Mucilage:
Phenolics and Peptides:
3. Mechanisms Relevant to Skin Health
4. Cosmetic Applications
5. Exfoliating Potential: Mechanisms and Formulations
Exfoliation refers to removal of dead stratum corneum cells to improve texture and appearance. Flaxseed itself is not inherently keratolytic like alpha-hydroxy acids but contributes to exfoliation:
Fig. 2: Function Application of Flaxseed Mucilage Gum
Fig. 3: Flaxseed Mechanisms of action
Physical exfoliation:
Enzymatic synergy:
Film-forming and desquamation modulation:
Fig. 4: Flaxseed Products Consumption
Safety considerations emphasize controlling particle size to avoid micro-tears and irritation, and patch testing for sensitive skin [28, 29 & 30].
6. Formulation Strategies and Product Development
Successful incorporation of flaxseed components hinges on extraction, stabilization, and compatibility:
7. Safety, Toxicology and Regulatory Considerations
Topical application of flaxseed constituents is generally well tolerated in available studies, but considerations include:
8. Analytical Methods and Standardization
Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.) is increasingly recognized not only for its nutritional and medicinal properties but also for its potential in cosmetic and skincare applications. The reliable characterization of its bioactive constituents is essential to ensure reproducibility and efficacy in formulations. Flaxseed contains a complex mixture of compounds, including fatty acids, lignans, and polysaccharide mucilage, each contributing to its multifunctional properties such as hydration, anti-inflammatory effects, and antioxidant protection. Comprehensive analytical approaches are therefore necessary to accurately profile these components, standardize their content, and predict their behavior in cosmetic formulations [42].
A primary focus in flaxseed characterization is its lipid profile, particularly the content of α-linolenic acid (ALA), an omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) known for its anti-inflammatory and skin barrier-supporting effects. Gas chromatography coupled with flame ionization detection (GC-FID) and mass spectrometry (GC-MS) are the most widely employed techniques for the precise quantification and structural elucidation of fatty acids in flaxseed oil. GC-FID allows the sensitive and accurate determination of fatty acid composition by separating methylated derivatives based on their volatility and molecular structure, providing a quantitative profile of ALA, linoleic acid, oleic acid, and minor fatty acids. Meanwhile, GC-MS offers complementary capabilities by providing mass spectra that enable the identification of unknown or minor fatty acid constituents, making it particularly valuable for quality control and detection of adulteration. The combination of these chromatographic methods ensures that flaxseed oil used in cosmetic formulations meets consistent compositional standards, a crucial factor for reproducible skin benefits [43].
Another critical component of flaxseed is lignans, especially secoisolariciresinol diglucoside (SDG), which is recognized for its antioxidant and phytoestrogenic activities. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) is the method of choice for lignan quantification. HPLC allows the separation of SDG from other phenolic compounds and minor lignans with high sensitivity and accuracy, enabling precise standardization of cosmetic ingredients. Accurate measurement of SDG content is vital because its antioxidant potential directly contributes to the protection of skin against oxidative stress, free radical damage, and premature aging. Variability in SDG concentration can lead to inconsistent antioxidant efficacy, highlighting the importance of rigorous chromatographic analysis in ensuring reproducible outcomes in cosmetic applications [42].
In addition to chromatographic techniques, spectroscopic analyses such as Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy play a pivotal role in characterizing flaxseed components. FTIR provides rapid, non-destructive identification of functional groups in lipids, lignans, and polysaccharides, offering insight into molecular interactions and chemical stability. By examining characteristic absorption bands, researchers can verify the presence of ester bonds, hydroxyl groups, and conjugated double bonds, which are indicative of fatty acids, lignans, and mucilage polysaccharides, respectively. FTIR also facilitates the monitoring of chemical modifications during processing or formulation, such as oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids or changes in polysaccharide structure, which can impact cosmetic performance. When combined with chromatographic data, FTIR enhances the overall reliability of flaxseed ingredient characterization [44].
The rheological properties of flaxseed mucilage represent another critical aspect of characterization, particularly for topical formulations. Mucilage is a hydrophilic polysaccharide fraction that contributes to the texture, viscosity, and hydration potential of flaxseed-based products. Rheological assays, including viscosity measurement, flow behavior analysis, and gelation studies, are essential to determine how the mucilage will perform in creams, gels, or serums. Viscosity not only influences product stability and spreadability but also affects the release and bioavailability of bioactive compounds, thereby modulating the overall cosmetic efficacy. Standardization of mucilage viscosity is therefore imperative to ensure consistent moisturizing and skin-conditioning effects across different batches of flaxseed extracts [42 & 44].
Microbiological assays constitute an additional layer of quality assurance, ensuring that flaxseed ingredients are safe for topical application. Given the hydrophilic and nutrient-rich nature of flaxseed mucilage, it can be susceptible to microbial contamination during extraction, processing, or storage. Routine microbial testing, including total plate counts, yeast and mold detection, and assessment of specific pathogens, guarantees that cosmetic formulations remain free from harmful microorganisms. This is particularly important for products designed for sensitive skin, where microbial contamination can trigger irritation or infection. Integration of microbiological evaluation with chemical and physical characterization establishes a comprehensive framework for the reliable standardization of flaxseed-derived ingredients [45].
Standardization of critical parameters such as SDG content, ALA percentage, and mucilage viscosity is fundamental for translating flaxseed’s biochemical potential into practical cosmetic benefits. Variability in raw materials, extraction methods, and storage conditions can influence the concentration and stability of these bioactives. For instance, unsaturated fatty acids like ALA are prone to oxidation, which can diminish their anti-inflammatory and barrier-supportive properties. Likewise, incomplete extraction or degradation of SDG can reduce antioxidant activity, and fluctuations in mucilage viscosity may alter product texture and hydration performance. By applying chromatographic, spectroscopic, rheological, and microbiological analyses in a systematic manner, manufacturers can establish robust quality control protocols that ensure reproducible efficacy, safety, and consumer satisfaction [46].
Furthermore, these analytical approaches facilitate the development of innovative formulations and guide optimization of processing parameters. For example, GC and HPLC data can inform the selection of extraction solvents, temperature, and duration to maximize recovery of lipids and lignans while preserving their chemical integrity. FTIR and rheological assessments can help in designing formulations with desirable consistency, spreadability, and bioactive release profiles. Microbiological testing ensures that such formulations remain stable and safe over their shelf life. Together, these tools enable a science-based approach to harnessing the full potential of flaxseed in skincare and cosmetic applications [43].
The comprehensive characterization of flaxseed ingredients relies on an integrated suite of analytical techniques, including chromatographic methods (GC-FID, GC-MS, HPLC), spectroscopic analysis (FTIR), rheological assessment, and microbiological testing. Accurate measurement of fatty acids, lignans, and mucilage properties, coupled with rigorous standardization of SDG content, ALA percentage, and viscosity, is essential to ensure consistent cosmetic performance. These methodologies not only safeguard product quality and efficacy but also provide insights for formulation development and innovation. As interest in natural and multifunctional cosmetic ingredients continues to grow, the systematic characterization and standardization of flaxseed components will remain a cornerstone for translating its biochemical richness into safe, effective, and reproducible skincare solutions [47].
9. Market Trends, Sustainability and Commercialization
The growing consumer demand for plant-based and sustainable cosmetic ingredients has significantly influenced the development of flaxseed-based products. Flaxseed, derived from Linum usitatissimum L., has emerged as a promising ingredient in the cosmetic industry due to its multifunctional properties and environmental advantages. Consumers are increasingly seeking formulations that are natural, ethically sourced, and environmentally responsible. This trend aligns with broader global shifts toward green and sustainable beauty, emphasizing transparency in sourcing, minimal environmental impact, and multifunctionality in ingredients. Flaxseed meets these demands through its diverse range of bioactive components, which have been demonstrated to support skin health, hydration, and overall cosmetic efficacy.
One of the major advantages of flax as a raw material is its status as a low-input crop. Flax can grow in a variety of soil types with relatively modest requirements for water and fertilizers, making it an environmentally sustainable option compared to other oilseed or botanical crops. Its adaptability to diverse climates and resilience against certain pests and diseases further reinforces its potential as a sustainable agricultural commodity. Moreover, flaxseed cultivation generates multiple co-products, including oil, meal, and mucilage, each of which can be utilized in different aspects of cosmetic formulation. Flaxseed oil, rich in omega-3 fatty acids such as alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), provides potent anti-inflammatory and skin barrier-supporting properties. Flax meal, containing proteins, lignans, and fibers, can serve as a natural exfoliant or as a stabilizer in emulsions. Mucilage, a polysaccharide-rich component, offers moisturizing, film-forming, and texture-enhancing effects. The ability to derive value from these multiple fractions aligns with circular economy principles, reducing waste while maximizing the utility of a single crop.
Despite its potential, the integration of flax-based ingredients into commercial cosmetic products faces several challenges. One key limitation is the variability in bioactive composition between flax cultivars and growing conditions. Factors such as soil nutrients, climate, harvest timing, and post-harvest handling can all influence the levels of fatty acids, proteins, lignans, and mucilage in flaxseed. This variability can lead to inconsistencies in efficacy, stability, and sensory properties of the final cosmetic formulations. Ensuring batch-to-batch reproducibility is therefore a critical consideration for cosmetic manufacturers aiming to meet regulatory and consumer quality standards.
Another significant challenge is the development of scalable, cost-effective extraction and processing technologies. Flaxseed bioactives are sensitive to temperature, oxidation, and hydrolytic degradation, making careful selection of extraction methods essential. Cold-pressing, solvent extraction, and enzymatic treatments are among the methods employed, each with trade-offs in yield, purity, and environmental footprint. Moreover, maintaining the bioactivity of sensitive compounds during processing, storage, and formulation requires innovation in stabilization techniques and packaging solutions. Addressing these technological challenges is essential to translate flaxseed’s biochemical potential into commercially viable, high-performance cosmetic products.
Flaxseed represents a compelling candidate for sustainable, multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. Its low-input cultivation, versatile co-products, and rich bioactive profile make it attractive from both environmental and formulation perspectives. However, achieving consistent quality and developing efficient, scalable extraction methods remain essential for widespread adoption in the cosmetic industry. Continued research and innovation in cultivar selection, processing technologies, and formulation strategies are likely to expand the role of flaxseed in the growing plant-based beauty market, fulfilling consumer demand for natural, sustainable, and efficacious products.
10. Future Directions and Research Gaps
To establish the therapeutic and cosmetic potential of flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.) in topical applications, several areas of research warrant rigorous investigation. Firstly, there is a pressing need for well-designed randomized controlled trials (RCTs) that directly compare standardized flaxseed-based topical formulations with conventional emollients and keratolytic agents. Such trials should assess both efficacy and tolerability across various dermatological conditions, including dry skin, hyperkeratosis, and mild exfoliation needs. By employing standardized formulations, these studies would provide robust evidence on whether flaxseed-derived products can offer comparable or superior outcomes relative to existing skin care options, thereby facilitating their integration into mainstream dermatology and cosmeceutical practice.
Secondly, mechanistic studies are essential to elucidate how flaxseed components, particularly mucilage, interact with the skin’s stratum corneum. Mucilage, a complex polysaccharide, is believed to influence corneocyte cohesion and modulate enzymatic desquamation. Understanding these interactions at a molecular and cellular level could clarify the pathways through which flaxseed exerts moisturizing, barrier-supportive, and mild exfoliating effects. Such insights would also inform formulation strategies that maximize these benefits while minimizing potential adverse effects, ultimately improving product performance and predictability.
Thirdly, long-term safety evaluations are critical to ensure that flaxseed-derived topical products are well-tolerated across diverse populations. Comprehensive sensitization studies, including patch testing on individuals with different skin types and underlying conditions, would help identify any risk of irritation, allergic response, or cumulative toxicity. Such studies are particularly important given the increasing popularity of natural and plant-derived skincare, where variability in composition can impact safety profiles.
Fourthly, optimization of extraction and stabilization methods is necessary to preserve the integrity and activity of flaxseed bioactives. Compounds such as alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), secoisolariciresinol diglucoside (SDG), and mucilage are prone to degradation under certain processing and storage conditions. Developing standardized protocols for extraction, purification, and formulation would minimize batch-to-batch variability, ensuring consistent efficacy and quality of topical products.
Finally, the development of standardized analytical methods and reference materials is paramount. Accurate quantification of SDG, ALA, and mucilage properties would enable reliable quality control, regulatory compliance, and reproducibility of research findings. Establishing such standards would facilitate comparative studies, support claims of efficacy, and foster confidence among clinicians, researchers, and consumers alike.
11. CONCLUSION
Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.) demonstrates remarkable potential as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient, offering hydrating, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and exfoliating benefits. Its rich composition of alpha-linolenic acid, lignans, phenolic compounds, and mucilage supports skin barrier repair, enhances elasticity, and promotes gentle exfoliation without irritation. The biodegradable and biocompatible nature of flaxseed-based formulations aligns with current trends toward sustainable and natural skincare. Mucilage-based gels provide deep hydration and film-forming protection, while ground flaxseed serves as an eco-friendly physical exfoliant. Despite its proven efficacy, challenges such as standardization, stability, and variability in bioactive composition require further research. Advances in extraction, stabilization, and analytical standardization will ensure consistent performance and safety. With continued scientific validation and formulation innovation, flaxseed can play a pivotal role in the future of botanical cosmetics, exemplifying a natural, effective, and environmentally responsible approach to skin care and exfoliation.
REFERENCES
Pooja Pagar*, Mayuri Pol, Dr. Sunil Mahajan, A Review of the Cosmetic and Exfoliating Properties of Flaxseed (Linum Usitatissimum L.), Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2025, Vol 3, Issue 11, 1724-1740 https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.17581903
10.5281/zenodo.17581903