Development and Evaluation of a Herbal Cosmetic Cream for Multi-Functional Skin Benefits

In recent years, the popularity of herbal cosmetics has grown significantly due to their natural origins and perceived safety compared to synthetic products. Often referred to as "natural cosmetics," these products are formulated using cosmetic bases combined with herbal extracts to deliver specific skin benefits. Unlike synthetic alternatives, herbal cosmetics are celebrated for their ability to enhance skin health while minimizing the risk of adverse effects[1]. This rising demand is fueled by increased awareness of the side effects associated with synthetic chemicals and a global shift toward sustainable and environmentally friendly options. Cosmetics play a crucial role in protecting the skin from environmental damage, reducing wrinkles, managing acne, controlling oil secretion, and enhancing the skin's overall appearance[2,3]. The development of products such as sunscreens, anti-aging creams, and anti-wrinkle treatments increasingly incorporates natural ingredients to address these concerns effectively while promoting long-term skin health[4,5]. One key challenge in developing cosmetic formulations, including those made with herbal ingredients, is ensuring preservation[6]. Products containing water, oils, polysaccharides, or proteins provide an ideal environment for microbial growth, which can compromise their safety and effectiveness[7]. To address this, preservatives are added to maintain product stability[8,9]. Regulatory guidelines, such as the European Union’s 7th Amendment to the Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC, emphasize the importance of declaring a product’s shelf life if it is less than 30 months, further highlighting the need for robust preservation methods in cosmetic products[10,11]. Herbal extracts differ from purified synthetic agents in several ways. They are often less concentrated but contain a mix of active compounds that work together to deliver therapeutic and cosmetic benefits. This synergy makes herbal formulations especially effective for addressing complex skin issues[12,13]. Traditional medicine systems like Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine, and Unani have long utilized these multi-component remedies, favoring polyherbal combinations for their enhanced efficacy[14,15]. Polyherbal cosmetic formulations have been widely accepted in countries such as India, China, Pakistan, and Brazil, where traditional herbal remedies have a deep cultural and historical significance[16,17]. This study focuses on developing a herbal cosmetic cream using Daucus carota (carrot) and Ocimum sanctum (Tulsi), two well-known plants with established skin-care benefits. Carrots (Daucus carota) are rich in Vitamin A, Vitamin C, and beta-carotene, which are essential for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. Vitamin A acts as a powerful antioxidant that slows down aging by neutralizing free radicals responsible for cellular damage[18,19]. Vitamin C supports collagen production, enhancing skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles, while beta-carotene imparts a natural glow and provides mild sun protection. Together, these components make carrots a valuable ingredient for skincare products[20,21]. Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum), also known as Holy Basil, is highly regarded in traditional medicine for its therapeutic and cosmetic properties. Tulsi leaves are rich in bioactive compounds, including ursolic acid, apigenin, luteolin, rosmarinic acid, eugenol, and ?-caryophyllene[22,23]. These compounds offer antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory benefits, making Tulsi an effective remedy for dark spots, uneven skin tone, and microbial infections. Additionally, Tulsi detoxifies the blood, eliminates toxins, and combats free radicals, which helps prevent premature aging and maintain a youthful complexion[24,25]. Research has shown that combining herbal extracts can enhance the effectiveness of cosmetic formulations[26,27]. Polyherbal creams take advantage of the synergistic effects of multiple herbs to address a variety of skin concerns, such as improving fairness, providing sun protection, reducing wrinkles, and delivering antibacterial benefits[24,28]. The purpose of this study was to formulate and evaluate a herbal cosmetic cream using extracts of Daucus carota and Ocimum sanctum. The aim was to create a multipurpose cream that improves skin health, offers protection against environmental damage, and addresses common skin concerns. This study also evaluated the cream’s stability, safety, and user experience, ensuring that it meets the demands of modern consumers seeking natural, effective, and reliable skincare solutions.

MATERIAL AND METHOD:

Ocimum sanctum procured from All Herbscare Naroda, GIDC, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, Daucus carota procured from Namashram Industries Bopal, Ahmedabad-380058, Gujarat, India, Ethanol procured from alpha chemika Andheri,Mumbai , Maharshtra.

Preparation of Extract

To prepare the herbal extracts, 1000 grams of air-dried, coarsely powdered Ocimum sanctum (Tulsi) and Daucus carota (Carrot) were processed separately. The powdered materials were placed in a Soxhlet extractor and first extracted using petroleum ether. This step helps isolate non-polar compounds like essential oils and other hydrophobic substances while also removing impurities. After the petroleum ether extraction, the plant materials were further processed with ethanol as the solvent. Ethanol, being a polar solvent, effectively extracts key bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, phenolics, and glycosides, which contribute to the therapeutic and cosmetic properties of the plants. Using these two solvents ensures a comprehensive extraction of both non-polar and polar components. The extracts obtained from each solvent were then concentrated under reduced pressure using a rotary evaporator at a controlled temperature. This process carefully removes excess solvent while preserving heat-sensitive compounds. Once concentrated, the extracts were collected, transferred to clean containers, and stored in a refrigerator to maintain their freshness and bioactive properties until they were ready for use in the formulation. This methodical approach ensures that the extracts are rich in active ingredients, making them ideal for creating an effective herbal cosmetic cream.

Preparation of cream :

To prepare the cream, an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion-based formula was created to achieve a smooth and semisolid texture. First, the oil phase was prepared by dissolving stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, and almond oil, which are oil-soluble ingredients, in a container. These were heated to 75°C until they were fully dissolved and blended. In a separate container, the aqueous phase was prepared by mixing methylparaben and propylparaben (preservatives), triethanolamine (a pH regulator), and propylene glycol (a humectant), along with ethanol extracts of Ocimum sanctum (Tulsi) and Daucus carota (Carrot). This aqueous phase was also heated to 75°C to ensure that all water-soluble ingredients dissolved properly.Once both phases reached the desired temperature, the aqueous phase was slowly added to the oil phase in small portions, with continuous stirring to promote the formation of a stable emulsion. The emulsifier worked to blend the two phases as the mixture cooled, resulting in a smooth, homogeneous cream. This process allowed the herbal extracts to be evenly distributed throughout the cream, ensuring their active ingredients were effectively incorporated. The final product was a stable and well-emulsified cream, ready for application, with beneficial properties for skin hydration, nourishment, and protection.

Table 1: Composition of cream

Cream Evaluation and Testing

pH of the Cream:
The pH meter was calibrated using a standard buffer solution. Approximately 0.5 grams of the cream was weighed and dissolved in 50 mL of distilled water. The pH of the resulting solution was then measured using the calibrated pH meter.

Viscosity:
The viscosity of the cream formulation was assessed using a Brookfield viscometer. The measurement was conducted at a speed of 100 rpm using spindle number 7 to determine the cream's resistance to flow[30].

Dye Test:
To determine the type of emulsion, scarlet red dye was mixed into the cream. A drop of the cream mixture was placed on a microscope slide, covered with a cover slip, and examined under a microscope. If the emulsion is oil-in-water (O/W), the dispersed globules will appear red, while the surrounding area remains colorless. Conversely, in a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, the dispersed globules will appear colorless, with the background showing the red hue[31].

Homogeneity:
The cream’s homogeneity was assessed both visually and by touch to ensure that the formulation had a smooth and even consistency without any separation or inconsistencies[32].

Appearance:

The cream’s overall appearance was judged based on its color, pearl-like sheen, and smoothness. These attributes were used to grade the cream’s visual appeal and quality[33].

After Feel

The sensory properties of the cream were checked by evaluating its emolliency (softness), slipperiness, and the residue left on the skin after applying a fixed amount. These qualities are important for assessing the product's skin feel[34].

Type of Smear:

After applying the cream to the skin, the type of film or smear it left behind was observed to determine how well it spreads and adheres to the skin[35].

Ease of Removal:

The ease with which the cream could be removed was tested by washing the area where the cream had been applied with tap water, ensuring that the product could be easily rinsed off without excessive effort[36].

Acid value:

Take 10 grams of the substance and dissolve it in 50 mL of a mixture consisting of equal volumes of alcohol and solvent ether, in a flask connected to a reflux condenser. Slowly heat the mixture until the sample is completely dissolved. Once dissolved, add 1 mL of phenolphthalein to the solution. The mixture is then titrated with 0.1N NaOH, shaking the solution for 30 seconds after each addition, until a faint pink color persists[37].

 Acid value  =  n*5.61/w

n =  the number of ml of  NaOH required.       

w = the weigh of substance.

Saponification value:

Take 2 grams of the substance and heat it with 25 mL of 0.5 N alcoholic KOH under reflux for 30 minutes. After the reaction, add 1 mL of phenolphthalein to the mixture, then titrate it immediately with 0.5 N HCl until the endpoint is reached[38].

Saponification value  =  (b-a)*28.05/w

The volume in ml of titrant = a

The volume in ml of titrate = b

The weigh of substance in gm = w

Irritancy Test:

A 1 cm?2; area was marked on the dorsal surface of the left hand. The cream was applied to this area, and the application time was recorded. The skin was then monitored for signs of irritancy, such as erythema (redness) and edema (swelling), at regular intervals over a 24-hour period, and any reactions were documented[39].

Accelerated Stability Testing:

The stability of the two most stable formulations, formulation number F1 and F2, was tested under accelerated conditions. These formulations were stored at room temperature for 7 days, and then placed at 40°C ± 1°C for 3 months. The formulations were observed at regular intervals (0th, 5th, 10th, 15th, 30th, 45th, 60th, 75th, 90th day) for various parameters, both at with the formulations maintained at both room temperature (25°C) and the elevated temperature (40°C ± 1°C).

RESULTS:

pH of the Cream: The pH of the cream was found to be in range of 6.5 – 6.8 which is good for skin pH. All the formulations were shown pH desired to skin required

Table 2: pH of cream base

Viscosity:

The viscosity of the cream formulations ranged from 27023 to 27027 cps, indicating that the cream has a smooth consistency and is easily spreadable with minimal force. Among the various formulations, F1 and F2 demonstrated superior spreadability compared to the other samples. This suggests that these formulations have a more desirable texture, allowing them to be applied with ease and without requiring excessive effort. The spreadability of a cream is crucial for consumer satisfaction, as it ensures the product can be evenly distributed over the skin, providing optimal coverage and effectiveness.

Table 3: Viscosity of Cream

Dye Test:

The dye test was conducted to confirm the emulsion type of the formulations. The results showed that all the formulations exhibited characteristics of an Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsion. In an O/W emulsion, the oil droplets are dispersed in the water phase, which is evident when the dye stains the continuous water phase, leaving the dispersed oil globules colorless. This confirms that the formulations consist of an oil phase dispersed in a water phase, which is the typical structure of an O/W emulsion. O/W emulsions are often preferred for cosmetic creams as they provide a lighter, non-greasy texture and are easily absorbed by the skin.

Acid value and Saponification value:

The results of acid and saponification value of all formulation of cream are presented in table 4, and showed appropriate values.

Table 4: Acid value and saponification value of all the formulation

Irritancy test: 

The formulations F1, F2, and F3 showed no signs of redness, edema, inflammation, or irritation during the irritancy studies. This indicates that these formulations are safe and suitable for use on the skin. (Table5).

Table 5: Adverse effect of formulations

Homogeneity:

All formulations demonstrated a uniform distribution of herbal extracts within the cream. This was verified both visually and through tactile examination, ensuring a consistent texture and blend across the formulations (Table 6).

Appearance:

Upon prolonged storage, no noticeable change in the color of the cream was observed. This stability in appearance suggests that the formulation maintains its original visual characteristics over time (Table 6).

After-feel:

The emolliency, slipperiness, and the amount of residue left after applying a fixed amount of cream were evaluated. The formulation provided a smooth and non-greasy after-feel, leaving minimal residue on the skin after application (Table 6).

Type of Smear:

After applying the cream, the type of smear left on the skin was evaluated as non-greasy, indicating that the cream offers a light, non-oily texture that is easy to absorb (Table 6).

Removal:

The cream was easily removed from the skin by simply washing with tap water, confirming that the formulation does not leave behind any persistent or stubborn residues (Table 6).

Rheological Studies:

The rheological behavior of the cream was studied, confirming that it exhibited pseudo-plastic flow characteristics. This means the cream's viscosity decreases under stress, making it easier to spread. Additionally, none of the formulations displayed thixotropic properties, indicating they do not undergo significant changes in viscosity after shear stress is applied, ensuring smooth application without fluctuating consistency.

Table 6: Physical Parameters of F1 and F2 Creams at Room and Accelerated Temperatures