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Abstract

Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs) in Cosmeceutical & Pharmaceutical preparations is novel approach in order to improve the therapeutic efficacy of drug by characterizing its pharmacokinetic properties with lesser adverse effects. NLCs offers effective drug loading capacity and stability, making them highly effective for delivery system. This chapter thoroughly summarises not only how the integration of nanotechnology with lipid-based carriers has revolutionized modern delivery strategies in pharmaceuticals but also in cosmeceutical industry they gained much in terms of skin hydration, improved penetration of bioactives. Process parameters also play important role to get effective NLCs in terms of particle size and drug loading capacity. Their potential in vaccine delivery system gained attention to improved antigen stability. This review also discussed different future aspects in terms of market size, improvement techniques to enhance release, expected growth of NLCs in both pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industry.

Keywords

Nanostructured Lipid Carriers, Cosmeceuticals, pharmacokinetic, therapeutic efficacy, novel

Introduction

Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs) are lipid-based Drug Delivery system consists of appropriate lipid, surfactants and other excipients. [1] NLCs are mainly used to deliver the lipophilic drugs, containing liquid mixture with solid, lipid (liquid) in their matrix. In Drug Delivery system mainly, researchers search for suitable biodegradable, biocompatible lipid, surfactants and other excipients. Thus, with NLCs many characteristics of drug & parameters can be improved in terms of its drug release, adverse effects. [2]

Cosmeceuticals term described by Dr. Albert Kligman, identified the products lying spectrum between drug & cosmetics. In Simpler terms cosmetic products providing pharmaceutical therapeutic benefits but not in terms of biological therapeutic benefits. Therefore, from last decades Cosmeceutical products gained much popularity world-wide. Many marketed products are available to reduce skin problems like wrinkles, fine lines, acne, dark spots, skin pigmentation. [3] NLCs applications are investigated in different cosmeceuticals like anti-aging, skin brightening, moisturizing creams, sunscreen formulations.[4]

Dermatologists must grasp the theoretical mechanisms underlying cosmeceuticals. This knowledge will empower dermatologists to assist patients in sifting through the complex landscape of an expanding array of products and to set realistic expectations when contemplating the incorporation of cosmeceuticals into their skincare routines. [5]Cosmeceuticals, like cosmetics, are applied to the skin, but they contain powerful ingredients that can affect the skin's biological processes and provide essential nutrients for healthier skin. The use of cosmeceutical products during the recovery phase of cosmetic surgery is becoming increasingly popular to achieve the best results and ensure patient satisfaction, particularly with cleansers, moisturizers, and products designed to conceal imperfections. [6]

The cosmetic industry manufactures cosmeceutical products for hair, nails, lips, and eyelashes to promote growth, as well as sun-protective lip balms that incorporate the required ingredients such as steroids in lip balms.[7]

In the development of sophisticated and efficient cosmeceuticals, nanotechnology holds a prominent role. It is thought in the cosmetics field that smaller particles can be absorbed by the skin more readily, allowing for easier and more effective repair of damage.[8]

STRUCTURAL TYPES AND DESIGN OF NLCS

  1. Imperfect crystal type – formed by blending solid and liquid lipids with different chain lengths, creating structural imperfections that enhance drug accommodation.
  2. Multiple oil-in-fat-in-water (O/F/W) type – containing nano-compartments of liquid lipid within a solid lipid matrix, suitable for highly lipophilic drugs.
  3. Amorphous type – designed to prevent crystallization and drug expulsion by maintaining the lipid matrix in an amorphous state. [27]

 

 

 

Fig no. 1 Schematic diagram illustrating structures of NLCs (1, 2, and 3 are disorder structure, amorphous structure and multiple structure, respectively)

 

PREPARATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF NLCS

Across the uploaded studies, high-pressure homogenization (HPH) and microemulsion-based techniques are the most commonly employed methods for NLC preparation. These methods are scalable and reproducible, supporting industrial translation. [27]

  1. High Pressure Homogenization (HPH)

 

 

 

Fig No. 2 High pressure homogenization

 

Table: Research Articles on HPH Technique in NLC Preparation

Ref. No.

Authors

Title

Journal

Year

Key Contribution

28

Galindo-Rodriguez S, Puel F, Briançon S, et al.

Optimizing SLN and NLC by 2² full factorial design: Effect of homogenization technique

Materials Science and Engineering C

2012

Studied influence of HPH parameters on particle size and stability of NLCs

29

Kasongo KW, Müller RH, Walker RB

The use of hot and cold high-pressure homogenization to enhance loading capacity and encapsulation efficiency of NLCs

Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy

2012

Compared hot and cold HPH for hydrophilic drug loading in NLCs

30

Duong VA, Nguyen TTL, Maeng HJ, Chi SC

Nanostructured lipid carriers containing ondansetron hydrochloride by cold high-pressure homogenization

Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology

2019

Cold HPH method for sustained-release hydrophilic drug-loaded NLCs

31

Lüdtke FL, Stahl MA, Gigante ML, et al.

Optimization of high-pressure homogenization conditions to produce nanostructured lipid carriers using natural and synthetic emulsifiers

Food Research International

2022

Optimization of pressure, cycles, and emulsifiers in NLC preparation

32

Gorle A, Pawar T, Mahhirao J

Design, development and characterization of nanostructured lipid carriers by HPH method loaded with anticancer drug

Journal of Drug Delivery and Therapeutics

2023

Application of HPH-based NLCs for anticancer drug delivery

33

Elmowafy M, et al.

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) as drug delivery platform

Nanomaterials

2021

Review detailing HPH as a primary industrial method for NLC production

34

Duong VA, et al.

Preparation of solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers and the effects of preparation parameters

Pharmaceutics

2020

Comprehensive review of hot and cold HPH techniques

35

Viegas C, et al.

Solid lipid nanoparticles versus nanostructured lipid carriers

Pharmaceutics

2023

Comparison of SLNs and NLCs with emphasis on HPH processing

 

  1. Microemulsion-based techniques

 

 

 

Fig No. 3 Microemulsion based techniques

 

Table: Research Articles on Microemulsion Technique in NLC Preparation

Ref

No

Title of Research Article

Drug / System Studied

Method Used

Key Findings

Journal & Year

36

Nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) based gel of celecoxib

Celecoxib

Microemulsion template technique

Produced NLCs with nanosize and enhanced skin permeation; prolonged anti-inflammatory activity

Int. J. Pharm., 2008

37

Development of valdecoxib-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers

Valdecoxib

Microemulsion template technique

High entrapment efficiency and sustained drug release for topical application

Int. J. Pharm., 2006

38

Nanostructured lipid carriers from microemulsion templates for topical delivery

Model drugs

Microemulsion template method

Demonstrated controlled particle size and improved stability of NLCs

Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, 2009

39

Formulation and evaluation of NLC-based gel for topical delivery

Anti-inflammatory drugs

Hot microemulsion technique

Improved permeation and prolonged release compared to conventional formulations

AAPS PharmSciTech, 2010

40

Fabrication of nanostructured lipid carrier-based gels using microemulsion template

Lipophilic drugs

Microemulsion-based technique

Stable NLC gel system suitable for dermal drug delivery

Journal of Dispersion Science and Technology, 2012

41

Preparation of nanostructured lipid carriers by microemulsion method

Various lipophilic drugs

Microemulsion method

Narrow particle size distribution and high drug loading

Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 2013

42

Nanostructured lipid carriers for topical drug delivery

NSAIDs

Microemulsion-based preparation

Enhanced bioavailability and reduced dosing frequency

Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2015

43

Microemulsion-based preparation of nanostructured lipid carriers

Review with experimental data

Microemulsion technique

Highlights advantages of low-energy microemulsion approach for NLC formation

Advanced Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2022

 

CHARACTERIZATION PARAMETERS

 

Characterization Parameter

Technique Used

Reference No.

Particle size & PDI

Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS), PCS

44,45,46

Zeta potential

Electrophoretic light scattering

47,48

Entrapment efficiency (EE%)

Ultracentrifugation, dialysis

49,46

Drug loading (DL%)

UV–Vis spectrophotometry, HPLC

50,51

Morphology & shape

TEM, SEM, AFM

52,53

Crystallinity & polymorphism

DSC, XRD

54,47

Drug–lipid interaction

FT-IR, Raman spectroscopy

45,49

In-vitro drug release

Dialysis bag method

46

Physical stability

Storage studies, size monitoring

44,45

 

PERSONALIZED COSMECEUTICALS
NLCs enable customization of lipid composition and active loading, supporting personalized skincare products based on individual skin type, age, and environmental exposure.

ENCAPSULATION OF SENSITIVE BIOACTIVES
Advanced NLC systems will improve protection and stability of oxidation-sensitive actives such as retinoids, vitamins, peptides, and natural antioxidants.

 

Properties

Key Ingredients

Ref

Moisturizing, hyadration

Shea butter, Rose oil, Rose oil, Vit. E

9

Hydration, prevents chippy lips from cold conditions

Caffeine, other excipients

10

Improved natural lip colour, hydration, plumping effect

Peptides, hyaluronic acid, niacin, palmitoyl, tripeptide, and ceramides

11

Provides nourishment, glow to lips

Almond scrub, Orange peel powder, Bees wax, Aleo vera, Beetroot extract

12

Sun Protection

virgin coconut oil, crude palm oil, Candelilla wax

13

Treatment of hyperpigmentation, protects from dehyadration and cracking

Dacus Carota, Crocus Sativus, Carrot Oil, Camelina Oil

14

Combat Staphylococcus aureus, antibacterial

Clitoria ternatea L, Azadirachta indica

15

Exfoliation (oily skin)

Jojoba meal, polyethylene beads

16

Antioxidant activity

Garcinia mangostana L

17

Improves skin texture, astringent

Aloe barbadensis miller (Aloe), Cucumissativus (Cucumber)

18

Anti-acne

Turmeric Kombucha

19

Sun protective lotion

Titanium dioxide, Isocetyl stearoyl stearate, Octyl methoxycinnamate

20

Acts as a mineral shield to reflect and scatter UV rays; highly photostable

Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide (ZnO)

21

Absorbs UV radiation and converts it into harmless heat; provides cosmetic elegance with thinner, easier-to-spread formulations

Oxybenzone, Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Octyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC)

21

Enhances SPF through an "occlusive effect" that hydrates skin; prevents chemical filters from penetrating the bloodstream.

Lipid-encapsulated OMC or Physical/Chemical blends

21

Restores the skin's natural barrier and reduces trans epidermal water loss (TEWL)

Hyaluronic acid, Ceramides, Glycerin

22

Neutralizes free radicals and treats conditions like androgenic alopecia or environmental damage.

Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Melatonin, Quercetin

23

Promotes collagen production and uses NLCs to provide a sustained release of active compounds.

Retinoids, Peptides, Resveratrol

21

Delivers high concentrations of medication to specific skin layers for conditions like inflammation or hair loss.

Diclofenac, Clotrimazole, Melatonin

22

Treats Androgenic Alopecia by enhancing antioxidant levels at the follicle and improving hair density

Melatonin, Antioxidant Oils (e.g., Rosemary, Almond)

23

Mimics natural hair sebum to repair the hair shaft and provide an "occlusive effect" that prevents moisture loss

Beeswax, Squalene, Lecithin

24,25

Protects the scalp from UV-induced damage and DNA mutations; NLC formulations prevent the "white cast" on hair and scalp

Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide (ZnO)

21, 26
 

CONCLUSION

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) have established themselves as advanced lipid-based systems with significant potential in both cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical drug-delivery applications. Their unique solid–liquid lipid matrix enables high drug loading, improved physicochemical stability, and controlled release of a wide range of bioactive compounds. In cosmeceuticals, NLCs enhance skin hydration, penetration, and long-term efficacy of actives such as antioxidants, vitamins, and sunscreens while maintaining excellent skin compatibility. In drug delivery, NLCs offer improved bioavailability, targeted delivery, and reduced systemic side effects. Although challenges related to large-scale manufacturing, regulatory approval, and long-term stability remain, ongoing research and technological advancements strongly support the future translation of NLC-based systems into effective, safe, and innovative therapeutic and cosmeceutical products.

FUTURE ASPECTS

Recent studies indicate that the future of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) lies in advanced and patient-centric drug delivery applications. Souto et al. emphasized targeted and personalized NLC systems using surface functionalization and optimized lipid matrices [55]. Haider et al. and Khan et al. highlighted the potential of NLCs for gene, vaccine, and CNS drug delivery due to their biocompatibility and loading versatility [56,57]. Stimuli-responsive and smart NLCs for cancer therapy were reported by Tapeinos et al. [58]. Furthermore, challenges related to large-scale manufacturing and long-term stability were discussed by Doktorovová and Souto, indicating future translational opportunities [59]. For cosmeceuticals it’s expected to formulate and deliver NLCs according to different skin types which called as personalized skin formulation [67]. Next generation NLCs application as per stimuli response is prominent area of study for anti-ageing and sunscreen products with respect to release of bioactives according to UV exposure, pH and temperature. Future formulation includes NLCs penetration via transfollicular and trans- appendageal pathways, that improves delivery across skin barriers. [68] Long term toxicity and wider acceptance of NLCs in cosmeceuticals is also prominent area of study to establish global regulatory compliance [69] NLCs market size is projected to grow from USD 19.7 million in 2025 to USD 52.2 million by 2035 in which skin care will have market share of 10.4% [70] Global market statistics of nanparticles was USD 231.0 million in 2024 and estimating to grow at compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 15% from 2024-2030. [71]

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Reference

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  2. Khan, Shadab, Ajay Sharma, and Vikas Jain. "An overview of nanostructured lipid carriers and its application in drug delivery through different routes." Advanced pharmaceutical bulletin 13.3 (2022): 446.
  3. Choi, Christine M., and Diane S. Berson. "Cosmeceuticals." Seminars in cutaneous medicine and surgery. Vol. 25. No. 3.
  4. Assali, Mohyeddin, and Abdel-Naser Zaid. "Features, applications, and sustainability of lipid nanoparticles in cosmeceuticals." Saudi Pharmaceutical Journal 30.1 (2022): 53-65. 
  5. Choi, Christine M., and Diane S. Berson. "Cosmeceuticals." Seminars in cutaneous medicine and surgery. Vol. 25. No. 3.
  6. Brandt FS, Cazzaniga A, Hann M. Cosmeceuticals: current trends and market analysis. InSeminars in cutaneous medicine and surgery 2011 Sep 30 (Vol. 30, No. 3, pp. 141-143). WB Saunders.
  7. Dureja H, Kaushik D, Gupta M, Kumar V, Lather V. Cosmeceuticals: An emerging concept. Indian Journal of Pharmacology. 2005 May 1;37(3):155-9.
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Aakanksha Gaikwad
Corresponding author

Department of Pharmaceutics, St. Wilfred Institute of Pharmacy, Panvel

Photo
Pratiksha Bij
Co-author

Department of Pharmaceutics, St. Wilfred Institute of Pharmacy, Panvel

Photo
Dr. Sanket Dharashivkar
Co-author

Principal and Campus Director, YNP College of Pharmacy, Asangaon

Aakanksha Gaikwad, Pratiksha Bij, Dr. Sanket Dharashivkar, Formulation and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCS) Drug Delivery System: Current Status & Future Aspects, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2026, Vol 4, Issue 5, 572-583, https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.20022575

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