Review on Formulation and Evaluation of Polyherbal Antidandruff Hair Mask

Dandruff is a common scalp disorder characterized by flaking, itching, and irritation, often caused by fungal overgrowth (Malassezia spp.), excessive sebum production, or dry skin. Dandruff represents one of the most prevalent scalp disorders globally, affecting nearly 50% of the adult population.[1] This multifactorial condition manifests clinically through visible flaking, persistent pruritus, and scalp irritation, primarily.[2] To overcome these limitations, herbal anti-dandruff hair masks offer a natural, sustainable alternative. These formulations leverage the antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and nourishing properties of medicinal plants to address dandruff at its root while promoting overall scalp and hair health. In recent years, there has been a growing shift toward natural, plant-based solutions that provide effective dandruff control without adverse effects.[3]

1.2 Structure of hair

Human hair is a remarkable biological filament, typically 50–100 micrometers (μm) in diameter, that emerges from the skin. Despite its delicate appearance, hair is a complex structure designed for strength and resilience.[4] Human hair is a complex biological structure composed primarily of keratin, a tough fibrous protein that provides strength and elasticity. Each hair strand consists of three main layers: the cuticle, cortex, and medulla.[5] The cuticle, the outermost protective layer, is made of overlapping keratinized scales that shield the inner layers from damage and moisture loss. Beneath it lies the cortex, which forms the bulk of the hair and contains melanin (responsible for hair color) as well as keratin bundles that determine hair's strength, texture, and flexibility.[6] The innermost layer, the medulla, is a soft, spongy core present only in thicker hairs, though its exact function remains unclear. Hair grows from follicles embedded in the scalp, where living cells divide and push older cells upward, gradually hardening into the hair shaft we see. This unique multi-layered structure gives hair its durability, elasticity, and ability to withstand daily wear and environmental stress.[7]

1.3 Benefits of herbal hair mask [8,9]

• Relieves Itchy, Irritated Scalp
• Eliminates Dandruff-Causing Microbes
• Balances Oil Production
• Fortifies Hair Strands
• Deeply Hydrates Scalp
• Boosts Scalp Health
• Uses of Herbal Plants

2.1 Amla Powder

FIG. NO.1: Emblica officinalis

Amla powder, derived from the Indian gooseberry (Emblica officinalis), is a powerhouse of nutrients and bioactive compounds, making it a staple in Ayurveda and modern herbal remedies. Rich in vitamin C (ascorbic acid), tannins (emblicanin A and B), flavonoids, and polyphenols, it offers potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory benefits.[10] These constituents help neutralize free radicals, slow aging, and enhance immunity. Additionally, amla contains minerals like iron, calcium, and phosphorus, along with gallic acid and quercetin, which support digestion, liver function, and cardiovascular health. Its high fiber content aids in gut health, while its hypoglycemic properties help regulate blood sugar levels. Topically, amla powder strengthens hair by preventing breakage, promoting growth, and reducing dandruff, while its astringent and antimicrobial properties benefit skin health by reducing acne and brightening complexion. Whether consumed or applied, amla powder is a versatile natural remedy with wide-ranging therapeutic effects. [11]              

2.2 Reetha:

FIG. NO.2: Reetha (Sapindus mukorossi)

Reetha (Sapindus mukorossi),[12] also known as soapnut, is a natural hair care ingredient rich in bioactive compounds like saponins (10-11%), which act as a gentle, chemical-free cleanser by forming a lather that removes unclean and excess oil without stripping natural moisture. It also contains flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic compounds,[13] which exhibit antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, helping to treat dandruff, scalp infections, and itchiness. The presence of natural oils and mucilage conditions hair, reducing frizz and enhancing shine. Additionally, Ritha's low pH helps maintain scalp health, strengthens hair roots, and prevents hair fall. Its mild exfoliating action unclogs hair follicles, promoting healthier growth while preventing premature graying. Regular use of Reetha as a hair wash or mask can result in softer, stronger, and naturally cleansed hair, making it a popular Ayurvedic alternative to synthetic shampoos. [14]

2.3 Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

FIG NO.3: Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

Shikakai (Acacia concinna) is a revered Ayurvedic herb packed with beneficial phytochemicals that promote hair health. Its key bioactive constituents include saponins, which act as a mild, natural cleanser by gently removing dirt and excess sebum without stripping the scalp's natural oils. Rich in flavonoids, tannins, and glycosides, Shikakai exhibits anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, helping to combat dandruff, scalp irritation, and fungal infections. The presence of vitamin C, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids nourishes hair follicles, strengthens strands, and reduces breakage.[15] Additionally, its low pH helps maintain the scalp's natural balance, preventing dryness and frizz while enhancing hair's natural shine. Regular use of Shikakai as a hair wash or mask can promote softer, thicker, and healthier hair, making it a popular natural alternative to harsh chemical shampoos. Its conditioning properties also help detangle hair, reduce split ends, and support sustainable hair growth.[16]

2.4 Hibiscus (Rosa-sinensis)

FIG. NO. 4:  Hibiscus (rosa-sinensis)

Hibiscus (rosa-sinensis) is a powerhouse of bioactive compounds that offer exceptional benefits for hair health. Rich in flavonoids, anthocyanins, and phenolic acids, it provides potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects that protect hair follicles from oxidative stress and premature aging. The presence of mucilage acts as a natural conditioner, imparting smoothness and shine while reducing frizz and split ends. Hibiscus is also packed with vitamin C, amino acids, and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs),[17] which stimulate collagen production, strengthen hair roots, and promote faster hair growth. Its natural protease enzymes help cleanse the scalp by removing dead skin cells and excess sebum, preventing dandruff and scalp infections. Regular use of hibiscus in hair masks or rinses can result in thicker, longer, and lustrous hair, making it a prized Ayurvedic remedy for maintaining healthy, vibrant hair naturally. [18]

2.5 Curry leaves

FIG. NO.5 : Curry leaves (Murraya koenigii)

Curry leaves (Murraya koenigii) powder is a treasure trove of bioactive compounds that offer remarkable benefits for hair health. Rich in antioxidants like beta-carotene and flavonoids, along with essential proteins, amino acids, and vitamins (A, B, C, and E), it nourishes hair follicles and promotes healthy growth [19]. The presence of alkaloids (like mahanimbine) and phenolic compounds helps combat scalp inflammation, dandruff, and premature graying. Its iron and folic acid content strengthens hair roots, reducing breakage and excessive shedding. Additionally, curry leaf powder contains essential oils and tannins, which improve scalp circulation, stimulate dormant follicles, and add natural shine to hair.[20] When used in hair masks or oils, it conditions the scalp, prevents thinning, and restores vitality to dull, damaged hair. Regular application can lead to thicker, stronger, and more resilient hair, making it a potent Ayurvedic remedy for maintaining luscious locks naturally.[21]

2.6 Bhringraj

FIG. NO. 6 : Bhringraj (Eclipta prostrata)

Bhringraj (Eclipta prostrata) is a revered Ayurvedic herb packed with bioactive compounds that offer exceptional benefits for hair health. Rich in wedelolactone, ecliptine, and flavonoids, it exhibits potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties that combat scalp infections, dandruff, and hair follicle damage. The presence of nicotine, coumestans, and sterols stimulates blood circulation to the scalp, promoting hair growth and preventing premature graying. Bhringraj is also abundant in iron, magnesium, and vitamin E, which strengthen hair roots, reduce breakage, and improve hair texture.[22] Its natural oils and proteins deeply condition the scalp, preventing dryness, split ends, and excessive hair fall. Regular application of Bhringraj powder or oil can revitalize dormant follicles, enhance hair density, and restore shine, making it a cornerstone of traditional hair care for thicker, longer, and healthier hair. Its adaptogenic properties also help reduce stress-related hair loss, solidifying its status as a holistic remedy for hair rejuvenation.[23]

2.7 Jaborandi oil

FIG. NO 7: Jabrandi oil (Pilocarpus microphyllus )

Jaborandi oil, derived from the leaves of Pilocarpus microphyllus (a shrub native to Brazil), is rich in bioactive alkaloids, primarily pilocarpine, along with isopilocarpine, pilocarpidine, and jaborine. These imidazole alkaloids are responsible for its pharmacological effects, including stimulating sweat glands and promoting hair follicle activity. The oil also contains essential oils, flavonoids, and tannins, which contribute to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. For hair care, Jaborandi oil is prized for its anti-hair loss and growth-stimulating benefits. It works by improving blood circulation to the scalp, which strengthens hair roots and reduces shedding. Additionally, its sebum-balancing properties help combat dandruff and dry scalp conditions. The oil is often used in hair tonics, serums, and anti-dandruff formulations to promote thicker, healthier hair. Unlike harsh chemical treatments, Jaborandi oil offers a natural, non-irritating alternative for those struggling with thinning hair or scalp disorders. However, due to its potent nature, it should be diluted with carrier oils (like coconut or jojoba oil) before topical application to avoid irritation.[24]

2.8 Fenugreek

FIG. NO. 8 : Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum)

Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) seeds, when ground into powder, are a powerhouse of bioactive compounds beneficial for hair health. Rich in proteins (30%) and amino acids (lysine, L-tryptophan), they strengthen hair keratin, reducing breakage and split ends. The powder also contains nicotinic acid (stimulates blood circulation), lecithin (moisturizes and conditions), and flavonoids (antioxidants that combat oxidative stress). Additionally, fenugreek is packed with vitamins (A, C, K) and minerals (iron, zinc, selenium), which nourish follicles and promote growth.[25] For hair care, fenugreek powder is renowned for its anti-hair fall, dandruff-fighting, and growth-enhancing properties. When mixed into masks or pastes, it soothes scalp inflammation, reduces flakiness, and prevents premature graying. Its mucilage content acts as a natural emollient, adding shine and softness to dry, frizzy hair. Regular use can thicken hair strands, reduce split ends, and stimulate dormant follicles, making it a popular Ayurvedic remedy for hair loss.[26] It’s often blended with yogurt, aloe vera, or coconut milk for deep conditioning. Unlike synthetic treatments, fenugreek powder is gentle, making it suitable for sensitive scalps.[27]

2.9 Tulsi

FIG NO.9 : Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum)

Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum), revered in Ayurveda, is a potent herb rich in bioactive compounds that benefit hair health. Its leaves contain essential oils (eugenol, ursolic acid, and carvacrol), which exhibit antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Tulsi also boasts flavonoids (orientin, vicenin), tannins, and vitamins (A, C, and K), which nourish the scalp and strengthen hair follicles.[28] For hair care, Tulsi is prized for its ability to combat scalp infections, reduce dandruff, and soothe irritation caused by fungal or bacterial imbalances. Its ursolic acid stimulates blood circulation, promoting hair growth and preventing premature graying. Tulsi's astringent properties help regulate excess oil (sebum) production, making it ideal for oily scalps, while its moisturizing effects prevent dryness and breakage. Regular use of Tulsi-infused hair masks or rinses can reduce hair fall, add shine, and improve scalp health. It’s often combined with coconut oil, aloe vera, or neem for enhanced benefits.[29]

2.10 Ginger

FIG NO. 10:  Ginger (Zingiber officinale)

Ginger (Zingiber officinale) is a powerhouse of bioactive compounds that promote hair health. Its key constituents include gingerol (a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent), shogaols, zingiberene, and essential oils rich in vitamins (A, C, E) and minerals (magnesium, phosphorus, zinc). These compounds work synergistically to stimulate blood circulation in the scalp, ensuring better nutrient delivery to hair follicles.[30] For hair care, ginger is renowned for its ability to combat hair loss, strengthen roots, and prevent thinning. Its antimicrobial properties help treat scalp infections and dandruff, while its anti-inflammatory effects soothe irritation and reduce follicular damage. Ginger also inhibits 5-alpha-reductase, an enzyme linked to androgenetic alopecia (pattern baldness). [31] When applied topically (often blended with carrier oils like coconut or olive oil), it revitalizes dormant follicles, reduces breakage, and adds shine. Regular use can thicken hair, curb excessive shedding, and promote healthier growthmaking it a natural alternative to chemical treatments.[32]

3.1 MATERIAL AND METHODS: -

The whole collection of organic compounds used in this research i.e., Amla, Bhringraj, Shikakai, Curry leaves, Reetha, ginger were purchase from a trusted local market in dried, powdered form to ensure purity and potency. Each powder was carefully selected based on traditional Ayurvedic efficacy and modern scientific validation for hair health benefits.[32]

3.2 Method of Preparation: -

Amla, Bhringraj, Shikekai, Curry leaves, reetha are components are in dry form grinded to make fine powder

• Weighing: -All the required herbal powders for hair mask preparation were accurately weighed individually by using digital balance.
• Mixing: - All these fine ingredients were mixed thoroughly by mixer to form a homogenous fine powder.
• Sieving; - The fine powder was run through sieve no. 80, to obtain the required amount of fine powder.
• Collection and storage; -Powder mixture was stored in appropriate plastic container and utilized for performing evaluation parameters.[33]

3.4 Evaluation Parameter [34]

The prepared herbal anti-dandruff hair mask was evaluated by following parameters.

1. Organoleptic evaluation  

Organoleptic evaluation involves the use of sensory organs—such as the eyes and nose—to assess the formulation based on its macroscopic characteristics. This includes the examination of attributes such as colour, odour, texture, and overall appearance of the product.

B. Physiochemical Assessment

a)  pH measurement: pH of a 1% aqueous solution of the formulation was determined using a properly calibrated digital pH meter under constant temperature conditions.

b) Determination of Moisture Content (Loss on Drying)
Approximately 1.5 grams of the powdered sample was accurately weighed and transferred into a pre-weighed shallow porcelain dish. The sample was dried in a hot air oven at a temperature between 100°C and 105°C until consistent weight was achieved (i.e., the difference between two successive weighing’s was no more than 0.5 mg). After drying, the sample was cooled in a desiccator and reweighed. The decrease in weight was recorded as the moisture loss.

c) Determination of Ash Content

A quantity of 2–4 grams of the powdered, air-dried plant material was carefully weighed and placed into a previously ignited and tared crucible (made of either silica or platinum). The sample was evenly spread and subjected to gradual heating, raising the temperature to 500–600°C until a white ash appeared, indicating complete combustion of organic matter. The crucible was allowed to cool in a desiccator and then weighed.
If a white ash was not achieved, the residue was moistened with approximately 2 ml of water or a saturated solution of ammonium nitrate, followed by drying over a water bath and hot plate. It was then reignited to a constant weight. The crucible was cooled again in a desiccator for 30 minutes and weighed promptly. The total ash value was expressed in milligrams per gram of air-dried sample.

C. Phytochemical Screening [35]

A series of qualitative tests were carried out to detect the presence of bioactive phytochemicals within the formulation. Each medicinal plant is known to possess specific chemical constituents that contribute to its therapeutic properties. These Phyto compounds exhibit a wide range of beneficial physiological effects

C. Phytochemical Analysis

a) Identification of Carbohydrates

Molisch’s test: Take 2–3 ml of the aqueous extract and add a few drops of α-naphthol dissolved in alcohol. Carefully layer concentrated sulfuric acid along the side of the test tube. The formation of a purple or violet ring at the junction indicates the presence of carbohydrates.

Fehling’s Reaction: Prepare an equal mixture of Fehling’s solution A and B (1 ml each) and boil for a minute. Add an equal amount of the test solution, then heat in a water bath for 5–10 minutes. The gradual formation of a yellow to brick-red precipitate suggests the presence of reducing sugars.

b) Identification of Alkaloids

Hager’s Reagent Test: To 2–3 ml of the filtrate, add Hager’s reagent. A yellow precipitate implies the presence of alkaloid compounds

Mayer’s Reagent Test: Mix a few drops of Mayer’s reagent with 2–3 ml of the extract filtrate. A creamy or pale-white precipitate indicates alkaloid content.

c) Foam Formation Test (for Saponins): Vigorously shake the drug extract or its powdered form with water. The development of stable, persistent foam indicates the existence of saponins.

d) Identification of Volatile Oils: Approximately 2–4 grams of the hair mask formulation is treated with an alcoholic solution of Sudan III. A red coloration is produced if volatile oils are present.

e) Rheological Properties

a) Tapped Density: Tapped density refers to the denser packing achieved when a container filled with powdered material is subjected to mechanical tapping. After noting the initial volume, the container is tapped continuously for about a minute or until the volume stabilizes.
Formula:
Tapped Density = Weight of Powder / Tapped Volume (g/ml)

b) Bulk Density: Bulk density represents the ratio of the mass of a loose powder sample to the volume it occupies. A specific amount of dry powder is filled into a 50 ml graduated cylinder without compression. The cylinder is then dropped at 2-second intervals from a height of 1 inch onto a firm surface. The volume and mass are recorded to calculate the bulk density.
Formula:
Bulk Density = Weight of Powder / Bulk Volume (g/ml)

c) Angle of Repose: The angle of repose is described as the steepest angle relative to the horizontal plane at which a material can be piled without slumping. It provides insight into the powder's flow characteristics.

D. Rheological Assessment

a) Angle of Repose: The angle of repose is the steepest angle formed between the horizontal surface and the slope of a pile of powder, indicating its flow characteristics. To perform the test, a known quantity of dry powder is placed into a cylindrical tube open at both ends and set vertically on a flat surface. The powder is allowed to flow from the tube to form a conical heap. The height (h) and radius (r) of the pile are measured. The angle of repose (θ) is calculated using the following for

0 = tan-1 (h/r)

Where:

• θ = Angle of repose
• h = Height of the pile
• r = Radius of the pile’s base

b) Hausner’s Ratio: This parameter indicates the flowability of the powder. It is the ratio of tapped density to bulk density:

Hausner's Ratio = Tapped Density / Bulk Density

A Hausner’s ratio greater than 1.25 suggests poor flow properties.

e) Carr’s Compressibility Index: Carr’s Index provides a measure of the compressibility of a powder and is calculated as:

Carr's Index Tapped Density - Bulk Density x 100

A lower Carr’s Index value indicates better

E. Stability Testing [36]

The powdered formulation was subjected to storage under controlled environmental conditions—specifically at temperatures of 35°C and 40°C with varied humidity. The samples were observed periodically for changes in physical appearance, texture, and other characteristics to assess formulation stability over time.

F. Microbial Assay for Antifungal Activity [37]

To evaluate antifungal efficacy, Candida albicans was used in a cup plate diffusion assay. The culture was maintained on agar slants. After the medium in the Petri dish solidified, two wells of 6 mm diameter were created.

• One well was loaded with the test sample.
• The other was inoculated with the fungal strain.

The plates were incubated at 37°C for 24 hours, and antifungal activity was assessed by measuring the zone of inhibition around the wells.

TABLE:-3.1

4.0 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

To establish the effectiveness and quality of the prepared herbal hair mask, various evaluation parameters were carried out.

4.1 Organoleptic Evaluation

The herbal hair mask underwent organoleptic assessment, with the findings presented in Table 2. The formulation exhibited a greenish-brown color, which is visually acceptable for herbal cosmetic products. It emitted a distinctive, characteristic odor, aligning with the expectations for natural cosmetic preparations. The texture and overall appearance of the formulation were also found to be suitable and met the desirable standards for cosmetic applications.

TABLE: - 3.2 Organoleptic Evaluations

TABLE NO. 3.4  : Organoleptic Evaluations