Development And Evaluation Of Herbal Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Containing Trigonella Foenum-Graecum And Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis

Fig. no.1 Types of dandruff

1.3 ANATOMY OF HAIR:

 Hair grows from hair follicles situated within the fatty layer of the scalp. At the base of each hair follicle is a hair bulb where the growth mechanism for producing hair occurs. Hair Follicle get their nourishment from the blood vessels within the dermis. The cells divide and develop to produce the hair shaft. While the hair is still developing underneath the epidermis, it maintains a soft form. Once the pushes past the epidermis, its outside layer hardens into keratin. The hair follicle anchors the hair In to the scalp and Is made up the papilla and bulb, which are located beneath the scalp. The bulb can be found at the bottom of each strand containing the active cells which grow the hair around the papilla.

Parts of the Hair:

1. Hair Papillae: The papilla is responsible for regulating the hair cycle and hair growth, and is also comprised of androgen receptor that is sensitive to the presence of DTH.

 2. Matrix: The matrix surrounds the dermal papillae and contains all the active cells needed for hair growth and for development of the different parts of the hair, particularly the outer root sheath, the inner root sheath and their hair shaft.

3. Hair Shaft: The hair shaft is the solitary part of the hair follicle that fully exist the surface of the skin. The hair shaft is made of three layers: the medulla, cortex, and the cuticle.

 a) Medulla: The medulla is described as an unsystematic and unstructured area located in the innermost region of the hair shaft and is not always present

 b) Cortex: The cortex is made up of keratin and is responsible for giving hair its strength and durability, as well as water uptake.

 c) Cuticle: The cuticle is the hair’s outer protective layer and is connected to the internal root sheath. It is a complex structure with a single molecular layer of lipids that helps hair repel water.

Fig no. 2. Structure of hair

HAIR PHYSIOLOGY:

• Anagen (growth phase): Most hair is growing at any given time. Each hair spends several years in this phase.
• Catagen (transitional phase): Over a few weeks, hair growth slows and the hair follicle shrinks.
• Telogen (resting phase): Over months, hair growth stops and the old hair detaches from the hair follicle. A new hair begins the growth phase, pushing the old hair out.

Fig. no. 3 Hair physiology⁴

1.4 Herbal Shampoo:

Definition of herbal shampoo:

  Shampoos are most probably used as beautifying It is a hair care product that is used for cleanse scalp and hair in our daily life.  Shampoos are most likely utilized as beautifying agents and are sticky solution of detergents containing suitable additives preservatives and active Ingredients. It is usually applied on wet hair, Massaging into the hair, and cleansed by rinsing with water.  The purpose of using herbal shampoo is used to remove dirt that is make up on the hair without stripping out much of the sebum.  Many artificial shampoos are present in the current market both medicated and non medicated, however, shampoo popularized due to natural origin which is safe, increases consumers demand and free from side effects.  HS is defined as a preparation with surfactant (surface active material) in-suitable form liquid solid or power which when used under the conditions specified will remove surface grease, dirt an skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without affecting adversely the hair, scalp or health of the user.  HS has so many types are powder, liquid, lotion, cream, jelly, aerosol, specialized HS (Conditioning, Anti-dandruff,). But the future of HS is going to be herbal Shampoo. It contains the natural ingredients with herb extract.  It helps hairs to improvise their standard of moisture, shine, growth, thickening, strength of hair roots.  Shampoos are may be the most widely used the cosmetic product for cleansing hairs and scalp in your daily life.  A shampoo is Shampoos are may be the most widely used the cosmetic product for cleansing hairs and scalp in your daily life.⁵

1.5 Herbal Antidandruff Shampoo:

 A herbal antidandruff shampoo is a cosmetic preparation that contains plant- based ingredients with antifungal, antibacterial, cleansing, and conditioning properties. It is formulated using natural extracts like Neem, Tulsi, Aloe vera, Shikakai, Lemon, and Rose extract, which not only cleanse the scalp but also nourish hair roots, promote growth, and prevent dandruff recurrence.

1.6 Advantages of Herbal Antidandruff Shampoo:

Advantages

 ▪ Natural and safe – Free from harsh chemicals like sulfates and parabens.

▪ Biodegradable and eco-friendly – Do not pollute the environment.

 ▪ Mild and non-irritant – Gentle on scalp and suitable for long-term use.

 ▪ Multifunctional action – Provide antifungal, antibacterial, and hair- conditioning effects.

▪ Cost-effective and easily available – Herbs are commonly accessible and economical.

Disadvantages:

 ▪ Short shelf life – Absence of strong preservatives reduces product stability.

▪ Batch-to-batch variation – Herbal extracts may vary in potency depending on source and season. ▪ Less foam formation – Due to natural surfactants, the lathering is lower than synthetic shampoos. ▪ Longer treatment duration – Results may appear slowly compared to chemical products.

 ▪ Be stable, safe, and easy to rinse off.

1.7 Concept of Herbal Anti-Dandruff Shampoo:

 The concept of a herbal anti-dandruff shampoo is based on the idea of using natural plant-derived ingredients to cleanse the scalp, remove dandruff, and maintain the overall health of hair without causing adverse effects. Unlike synthetic shampoos that contain harsh chemicals, herbal shampoos use ingredients obtained from medicinal plants, which are rich in bioactive compounds like alkaloids, flavonoids, glycosides, saponins, and essential oils. In ancient systems of medicine, especially Ayurveda, herbs such as Neem, Tulsi, Aloe vera, Shikakai, and Lemon have been used for centuries to treat scalp disorders. The herbal concept focuses not only on removing visible dandruff flakes but also on treating the root cause which may be fungal infection (Malassezia furfur), excess sebum production, or poor scalp hygiene.⁶

1.8 Types of Shampoo:

 Shampoos are of the following types:

 Powder Shampoo: It is available in the form of dry powder, initially it was prepared from dry soaps, but nowadays dry synthetic detergents are used for their preparation.Powder shampoo is prepared where addition of water or other solvent reduces the activity of the components, especially in case of medicated shampoo. Nowadays, these shampoos are not used due to the difficulty experienced in their application.

 Liquid Shampoo: These are clear liquid preparations that are most widely used. They are usually made by using detergent of low cloud point. Some of these shampoos may be transparent.

Cream Shampoo: These are called as lotion shampoos which are modification of clear liquid cream shampoos. Solubilizing agents such as magnesium stearate is also used to dissolve the added pacifiers.

 Jelly shampoo: These are transparent and thick usually made by incorporating a gelling agent, (e.g. Cellulose). There is great use in hair salons and beauty parlors. The principle ingredient is detergent which can be used either alone or in combination with soap. By altering the proportion of detergent, gel of required consistency can be obtained. Addition of methyl cellulose to clear liquid shampoo and its subsequent thickening also gives rise to gel shampoo.

 Aerosol Shampoo: They are called aerosol shampoos because they are packed in aerosol containers. Their formulation, preparation and packing is complicated as an additional propellantis included. The propellant added must be compatible and should not reduce the activity of shampooing ingredients. The container opening is provided with a valve. Shampoo comes out as foam when the valve is pressed. Hence also called as foam type shampoo.

 Keratin Shampoo: When your shampoo(or any hair care product) is infused with keratin oil, you reap benefits that nourish and condition the hair. This helps it look shiny and smooth. It also helps to fight frizz, tame fly always, and protect against damage caused by styling tools like a straightening iron or blow dryer.

Specialized shampoo: Specialty shampoos are marketed to people with dandruff, color- treated hair, gluten or wheat allergies, an interest in using an organic product, infants and young children ("baby shampoo" is less irritating).

Conditioning shampoo: Conditioning shampoos are formulated to provide the dual benefit of a shampoo as well as conditioner. It is a sophisticated hair care product, which has a shampoo and conditioner in one. Along with gentle cleaning of hair to remove dirt, conditioning shampoos condition the hair to keep it shiny and flexible.

 Anti-Dandruff shampoo: A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable forms- liquids, solids or powder which when used under the specialized condition will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair and scalp without affecting users.⁶

 1.9 Ideal characters of shampoo:

 • It should effectively and completely remove dust, excess sebum.

• You should wash your hair thoroughly.

• More foam should be produced

• The shampoo should be easily removed by washing with water.

 • They should leave the hair dry, soft, shiny and manageable.

 • You must give the hair a pleasant smell.

 • It should not make the hand rough and cracked.

• It should not cause side effects or cause irritation to the skin or eyes.⁹

1.10 Composition of herbal shampoo:

• Active agents
• Foaming agents
• Conditioning agents
• Thickening agents
• Colors, perfumes and preservatives.⁷

2. LIST OF INGREDIENTS USED IN FORMULATION

Table no 1: List of Ingredients used in formulation

3. DRUG AND POLYMER PROFILE

1. Fenugreek

Fig no. 4 Fenugreek

 🔹 Scientific name :Trigonella foenum-graecum

🔹 Synonyms: Methi, Greek hay, Fenugreek

🔹 Biological Source: It consists of dried ripe seeds of Trigonella foenum-graecum

🔹 Family: Fabaceae

🔹 Morphological Characters:

• Seeds are yellowish-brown, hard and angular
• Characteristic bitter taste
• Swells in water forming mucilage

🔹 Chemical Constituents:

• Saponins (diosgenin)
• Alkaloids (trigonelline)
• Proteins and fixed oils

🔹 Uses:

• Acts as natural conditioner due to mucilage
• Reduces dandruff and scalp dryness
• Strengthens hair roots

2. Hibiscus

Fig.no.5 Hibiscus

🔹 Synonyms: China rose, Jaswand

🔹 Biological source: consists of fresh or dried of hibiscus rosa-sinensis

🔹 Morphological Characters

• Large red colored flowers
• Soft petals with mucilaginous nature
• Slightly slimy texture in water

🔹 Chemical Constituents

• Anthocyanins (color pigments)
• Flavonoids
• Mucilage
• Organic acids

🔹 Uses

• Promotes hair growth
• Provides shine and smoothness
• Helps in anti-dandruff activity

4. METHODOLOGY

 4.1 MATERIAL AND METHOD:

Table no.2 : formulation table of herbal anti-dandruff shampoo

5. PROCEDURE:

Collection of powder: Powder are collected from local market.

Preparation of herbal extract:

Fig.no. 6 Extraction of fenugreek and hibiscus

1.Fenugreek extract:

• Cleaning: Wash seeds to remove impurities
• Soaking: Add seeds to water, keep 12-24 hours (overnight)
• Crushing: lightly crush softened seeds
• Filtration: Filter through muslin cloth, filter paper.
• Collection: collect viscous (gel like) extract.

Fig.no. 7 fenugreek seeds grind                                            Fig.no.8 fenugreek extraction process

2. hibiscus extract:

• Weighing: Take hibiscus powder/flower
• Soaking: add water, keep 30-60 min (or overnight).
• Filtration: filter through muslin cloth/filter paper
• Collection: collect reddish extract

Fig.no. 9 Hibiscus extraction process

Preparation of herbal anti-dandruff shampoo:

1.  Prepare Thickener Solution: Take 30–40 g distilled water, Add thickener slowly (sprinkle)

Stir for 5–10 min, allow to hydrate (15–30 min), Forms viscous base

 2. Add Surfactant:Add required SLS slowly, Stir gently to avoid foam

3. Add Humectant:Add glycerin, Mix properly

 4. Add Herbal Extracts: Add fenugreek extract, Add hibiscus extract, Stir for uniform mixing

 5. Add Preservative: Dissolve methyl paraben in small warm water/glycerin, Add to mixture

 6. Adjust pH:Dissolve citric acid in little water, Add dropwise, Adjust pH to 5–6

 7. Fragrance:  Add rose oil at the end, Mix gently

 8.  Make up Weight: Add distilled water q.s. to 100 ml, mix gently to get uniform shampoo

 9. Packaging: Transfer into clean container, Label properly

Fig.no. 10.  Prepared herbal anti dandruff shampoo

 6. EVALUATION PARAMETER

To evaluate the prepared formulations, quality control tests including visual assessment and physicochemical controls such as pH, density, viscosity, surface tension, foam volume, foam stability and wetting time were performed using standard protocols.

1) Physical appearance/visual inspection:

 The formulation prepared was evaluated for the clarity, color, odor and foam producing ability and fluidity.

• Appearance
• Color
• odour
• Transparency

2) Consistency:

The consistency of formulated cream were determined by hand. Take pinch of shampoo and rubbed it with finger.

5) Foaming ability or foam stability:

Method: Take 5 mL of shampoo from each batch, dilute with water, and shake for 15–20 seconds. Observe the foam formation.

 Expected Result: The shampoo should produce a rich, stable lather.

Method:

• Take 5 mL of shampoo from each batch.

• Dilute with 10 mL of distilled water in each test tube.

• Shake vigorously for 15–20 seconds.

 • Measure foam height and assess stability after 1 minute.

6) Skin Irritation Test:

 Prepared herbal shampoo was applied on skin for 5 minutes after that washed. It showed no irritation or inflammation to the skin. So it passed irritation test.

7) Washability test:

The ease of removal of the shampoo applied was examined by washing the applied part with water.

Easily washable

8) Determination of pH:

A 10% v/v shampoo solution was constituted in distilled water and the pH of the solution was measured by using a calibrated pH meter.

Method: Measure the pH of each batch using a digital pH meter.

 • Expected Result: The pH should fall within the range of 4.5–6.5 to ensure scalp safety and effectiveness.

 RESULT

Table no. 3. Evaluation parameter