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Oriental college of Pharmacy, Sanpada, Navi Mumbai
Facial skin cleansers are vital for everyday skincare since they effectively remove debris, oil, and impurities. They contain surfactants, such as sodium lauryl or sodium laureth sulfate, which, when rinsed with water, bind with and remove pollutants due to their hydrophilic and lipophilic qualities. Cleansers frequently contain emollients, such as glycerin and fatty alcohols, to assist in maintaining skin hydrated and offset the drying effects of surfactants. Hyaluronic acid and other humectants are added to draw moisture to the skin after cleansing, improving skin hydration. For skin health, facial cleansers' pH balance is essential. To preserve the skin's protective acid mantle, these cleansers should ideally have a pH of about 5.5, which is near the skin's natural pH. This barrier is essential for defending against dangerous microbes and environmental pressures. High pH cleansers have the potential to break down this barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, and weakened skin. In general, facial skin cleansers are designed to strike a compromise between skin protection and cleaning effectiveness. They help to maintain a healthy pH balance, promote hydration, and enhance overall skin health and resilience against outside aggressors by efficiently eliminating pollutants.
Throughout human history, hygiene has undergone tremendous change, evolving from simple cleanliness to a ritual with cultural, religious, and individual importance. Beyond its original intent of preventing disease, cleaning is now used as a self-care practice that promotes skin health and beauty while also promoting relaxation and renewal.[1] From each angle, it's imperative to find a fine balance between washing the skin and maintaining its inherent stability and balance.[2]
INTRODUCTION TO SKIN [4]
The biggest organ in the body, the skin makes up roughly 16% of the total weight of the body. It has a surface area of between 1.2 and 2.2 m² overall. Its thickness ranges from 0.05 mm to 15 mm thick, depending on the area.
Functions of Skin:
Structure of skin:
The skin has three layers:
Layers of skin:
Fig. No.1. Layers Of Skin
Epidermis:
Five different keratinized cell layers make up the epidermis:
1. Statum corneum, often known as the cornified layer or horny layer.
2. The clear layer, or stratum lucidum.
3. The Granular Layer, or stratum granulosum, is twice as thick as the stratum corneum.
4. Stratum spinosum, or the layer of squamous cells, has a spiny look.
5. The basal Layer or stratum basale/germinativum (Growing Cells)
1) Stratum corneum: No cytoplasmic organelles or nuclei just flattened dead cells packed with keratin that resemble a wall ten cells thick on top of a living epidermis.
2) Stratum lucidum: - Another name for it is the clear layer. Situated in the lowest depth of the stratum corneum The skin of the palms and soles is thick because this layer is mostly found in those areas. This layer is very acidophilic, meaning that it absorbs acid dyes when stained.
3) Stratum granulosum: - Proportionate to the thickness of the stratum corneum, its thickness is made up of layers of long, flattened cells. Has basophilic keratohyalin granules; single cell thickness on thin skin, up to 10 cell thickness on palms and soles.
4) Stratum spinosum – Squamous layer: - · 4-10 layers polygonal cell with a large round nucleus.
· Cells in this layer have numerous evenly spaced intercellular bridges called tonofilaments each with a central thickening. Many such thickenings Come together to form desmosomes.
· Desmosomes give a spiny appearance and hence are also called the Prickly layer. The desmosomes keep breaking and reforming.
· Function: Forms the bulk of the epidermis, lipid contents act as a barrier to water.
5)Stratum Basale or germinativum Malpighian layer:
• A single layer of melanin-containing cuboidal or low columnar cells with an extended nucleus Functionalities include:
• mitotic activity and proliferation • all keratinocyte formation
• replacement time for the epidermis as a whole is 42 days
• replacement time for the stratum corneum is 14 days
• this time reduced in psoriatic skin, i.e., abnormally rapid transformation of basal cells to horny cells of the stratum corneum in psoriasis.
Cells of the Epidermis
• Keratinocytes, or Keratinized Cells
• Cells that are not keratinized:
1. Melanocytes
2. The Langerhans cell
3. Merkel cells, or tactile cells, are touch-sensitive cells Two types of sensory receptor cells are present in the Merkel cell-neurite complex. Different components of touch reactions are mediated by the combination of neurons and Merkel cells.
Fig. No.2.Layers Of Epidermis
1.Cells of the Epidermis: The deepest layer of the epidermis contains stem cells, which are undifferentiated cells that give rise to keratinocytes. Most epidermal cells are keratinocytes, which produce keratin. Melanocytes produce melanin and are only present in the lowest stratum. The deepest layer contains tactile cells, which have touch receptors connected to dermal nerve fibers. Dendritic cells move from bone marrow and resemble macrophages. They protect the body from bacteria, poisons, and other infections.
2. Dermis: It is composed of the protein collagen, together with reticulin and elastin, and it provides mechanical support to the epidermis. Its thickness ranges from 0.3 to 3 mm. There are two layers to it. I. The papillary layer connects the reticular layer II to the epidermis by acting as a FIG.2.EPIDERMIS LAYER network structure. Deeply penetrates the subcutaneous layer to form the reticular layer. The dermis has a large number of specialized appendages, including blood veins, sensory receptors, and hair follicles.
3. Hypodermis Subcutaneous layer: • The loose alveolar tissue that lies under the dermis is packed with yellow fat containing cells that serve as a cushion between the skin and underlying tissues. • It also acts as an insulator, enabling surface cooling to regulate heat loss. Dermal cell types:
1. Granules in the cytoplasm are a defining characteristic of mast cells. Many allergies or other conditions cause mast cell rupture, which results in the release of histamine. Histamine release is linked to skin conditions such as inflammation and irritation.
2. Fibroblasts are spindle-shaped cells that secrete collagen and a ground substance that contains embedded collagen fibers. • The amount of collagen and ground material decreases with age. • Collagen is a prevalent bodily component found in heart valves, cartilage, and connective tissues.(3)
TYPES OF SKIN [30]
· Normal skin
· Oily skin
· Dry skin
· NORMAL SKIN: - Normal skin is thought to be in the best possible health and balance. It has a silky feel, and great elasticity, and maintains a balanced moisture content. People who have normal skin don't have many skin care issues because their skin isn't too oily or too dry. The skin looks clear, with moderately sized pores and a consistent tone, because sebum production is managed and hydrates the skin efficiently without being overly oily.
· OILY SKIN: - Oily skin is characterized by excessive sebum production, which makes the skin appear glossy or greasy, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin). Larger pores are typical, and because of pore obstruction from abundant oil, the skin is prone to acne, blackheads, and whiteheads. Notwithstanding these difficulties, oily skin has natural defenses against the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and ages more slowly overall.
· DRY SKIN: - Lack of moisture causes tightness, flakiness, and a harsh texture in dry skin, which frequently looks parched and drab. People who have dry skin can feel uncomfortable and sensitive, which can sometimes irritate them. Dry skin can be caused by several things, including aging, genetic predisposition, environmental causes, and not drinking enough water. Restoring moisture levels and maintaining a strong skin barrier requires regular moisturizing because extreme dryness can lead to skin disorders like dermatitis or eczema.
TYPES OF SKIN CLEANSING PRODUCTS:
1. Gel Cleanser: Designed to eliminate excess sebum and unclog pores, gel cleansers have a light, clear, gel-like substance. They are packed with moisturizing elements and extremely hydrating, leaving the skin feeling renewed and nourished. An ideal option for those with oily or acne-prone skin is a gel cleanser.
2. Oil-based Cleansers: Deeply penetrating pores to dissolve undesirable oils and germs, oil-based cleansers gently remove sunscreen, excess sebum, and makeup from the skin. They also add vital vitamins to the skin.
3. Cream Cleansers: If you have sensitive or dry skin, cream cleansers are ideal for you. They usually contain hydrating ingredients and have a thick, creamy consistency. The skin is softly cleansed by these cleansers without losing its natural oils. They might also be offered in "lotion" or "milk" form.
4. Clay Cleansers: Clay cleansers help remove extra oil, extract pollutants from the face, and guarantee deep pore cleaning, making them perfect for oily and combination skin types.
WHY WE NEED CLEANSER?
Water alone is not always an easy way to remove cosmetic residues and many environmental toxins. To solve this, materials that can emulsify these insoluble contaminants into smaller particles—thus rendering them water soluble—are needed. Here's where cleansers come into play. Cleansers function as surface active agents by reducing the skin's surface tension. This allows them to efficiently eliminate bacteria, emulsified exfoliated corneum cells, debris, sebum, and oil from makeup products. The goal of the perfect cleanser should be to preserve the skin's moisture balance rather than harm or irritate it to accomplish these goals.[4]
CONSTITUENTS OF SKIN CLEANSER [25]
MOISTURIZERS:
The term "moisturizer" is often used broadly in skincare marketing to highlight a product's ability to hydrate the skin. However, in dermatological terms, moisturizers encompass various components—primarily humectants, emollients, and occlusives—each serving distinct functions in skin hydration and barrier protection.
Humectants: These ingredients attract moisture from the environment or deeper skin layers into the outermost layer of the skin. Common humectants include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and aloe vera. They are particularly effective in humid environments, where they can draw moisture from the air into the skin.
Emollients: Emollients work by filling the spaces between skin cells with lipids, thereby smoothing and softening the skin. They enhance skin flexibility and are particularly beneficial for dry or flaky skin. Examples of emollients are shea butter, squalane, and ceramides.
Occlusives: These substances form a protective barrier on the skin's surface, preventing water loss. Occlusives are especially useful for very dry or compromised skin. Petrolatum and beeswax are typical occlusive agents.
In practice, many skincare products combine these components to provide comprehensive hydration: humectants draw in moisture, emollients smooth the skin, and occlusives lock in the hydration. [29]
SURFACTANT: A molecule with two properties is called a surfactant, which is short for a surface active agent: hydrophilic (attracting water) and hydrophobic/lipophilic (attracting oil). Surfactants are used as detergents in facial cleansers for cosmetic purposes. Their main function is to lessen the interfacial tension at the interfaces between skin and water and dirt and water, which effectively removes dirt from the skin's surface. After the dirt has been released, it can be cleaned in an emulsified state [5] Micelles are structures that surfactants tend to assemble into. The polar heads of the surfactant molecules in these micelles face outward and interact with water, while the hydrophobic parts of the molecules are orientated toward the center of the cluster. Micelles are polar aggregates with low surface activity and high water solubility. It's crucial to remember that only single surfactant molecules, or monomers, can reduce surface tension. [5], [6],[7], [8], [9], [10], [11]
SURFACTANT ARE CLASSIFIED INTO FOUR GROUPS:
1. ANIONIC SURFACTANT
2. CATIONIC SURFACTANT
3. NONIONIC SURFACTANT
4. AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT
Anionic surfactants are the most widely utilized variety, accounting for around 60% of the yearly production of surfactants worldwide. Their heads are hydrophilic and negatively charged. Anionic surfactants are well known for their strong lathering, excellent wetting, and powerful cleaning qualities. They are recognized, meanwhile, to have the propensity to irritate the skin and eyes. [6] [12] Soap, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and sodium laurate sulfate (SLES) are some of the anionic surfactants that are most frequently used. The most common kind of surfactant is still soap, which is composed of a variety of alkali metal salts that are formed from carboxylic acids that are obtained from either vegetable or animal fats. One well-known soap cleanser on the market is the well-known Shiseido Senka Perfect Whip Cleansing Foam. Wetting agent and detergent sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is well-known for irritating skin and potentially damaging the skin barrier. Meanwhile, because of its economical and efficient washing properties, sodium laurate sulfate (SLES) is used as the main surfactant in several commercial products, including body wash, shower gel, and shampoo. As an illustration, consider Sweet I Love La Roche-Posay Effaclar Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser and Juicy Shampoo. It's crucial to remember that SLES can irritate skin as well. [13], [14], [15]. Because they are reasonably priced and, more importantly,because they may be blended with polymers and other surfactant kinds to reduce their potential for irritation, anionic surfactants are frequently used as the principal surfactant in formulations.[7], [8], [16]
CATIONIC SURFACTANT: Compared to anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants are positively charged and usually show less detergency. However, because of their strong bactericidal action against a wide range of microbes, they have noteworthy antibacterial qualities that make them appropriate for use as preservatives. [10] AMINE SALT [17] IS AN EXAMPLE OF A CATIONIC SURFACTANT. Microcrystalline water is made with the addition of cetrimonium bromide.
NON-IONIC SURFACTANT: The second biggest class of surfactants are non-ionic surfactants, which do not have an electrical charge on their heads. They are therefore compatible with all other types of surfactants due to this property. Non-ionic surfactants also have a wide range of uses; they are used as emulsifiers and suspending agents in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetics industries, as well as thickeners in shampoos.[18] They cause less skin irritation.[12] As such, they are often used in eye makeup remover formulas (e.g., PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, found in treatments such as Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water). Temperature has a significant impact on ethoxylated compounds' physicochemical properties. Polyoxyethylene chaincontaining non-ionic surfactants show a temperature-dependent solubility in water, displaying a reversal solubility characteristic. The interactions between the oxyethylene groups and the water diminish as the temperature rises, resulting in the development of two phases. The cloud point is the temperature at which this separation takes place. The hydrophobic chain length has less of an impact on the cloud point than the number of oxyethylene units.[12]
AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT: Usually, amphoteric surfactants have two charged groups that have opposing signs. As pH levels rise from low to high, they go through a transition from a net cationic state to a zwitterionic state and finally to a net anionic state. This naturally occurring pH-dependent change affects the foaming, wetting, and detergency of surfactants. Amphoteric surfactants are often used in shampoos and other cosmetic formulations due to their gentle nature on the skin and minimal tendency to irritate the eyes. For instance, La Roche-Posay Effaclar Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser's skin-friendliness was improved by combining coco-betaine with SLES. Nevertheless, their high price occasionally limits their use.[19]
PRESERVATIVES:[3]
Cosmetic items are prevented from spoiling by the use of preservatives. There are two primary rationales for averting spoilage:
1. Microbial growth resulting from the oxidation of lipids and oils.
2. Products without preservatives are more likely to degrade and have an unfavorable stability profile.
Ideal properties of preservatives:
1. With the formulation, it ought to be compact.
2. It ought to have no color and no smell.
3. At the concentration employed, it should not be irritating, poisonous, or allergenic.
4. It must be stable to maintain its antibacterial activity
FACTOR AFFECTING MICROBIAL PRESERVATIVE EFFICACY:
1. DISSOCIATION AND pH
2.CONCENTRATION
3. SUSCEPTIBILITY OF MICROORGANISM
4. INTERFERENCE BY INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS
5. INFLUENCE OF SOLID PARTICLES
1.DISOSIATION AND pH: Microorganisms exhibit varying growth preferences based on pH levels; some thrive in acidic conditions, while others prefer alkaline environments, with only a few capable of surviving in neutral pH. Preservatives are designed to be effective across a broad pH range. They typically demonstrate higher activity in acidic conditions compared to alkaline ones. Preservatives that function well in both acidic and alkaline environments tend to be highly reactive. The effectiveness of preservatives is significantly influenced by pH. For instance, the amount of benzoic acid required at pH 6 is approximately 60 times greater than at pH 3
2. CONCENTRATION: The effectiveness of preservatives is directly proportional to their concentration. When antimicrobial agents are included, lower concentrations of preservatives suffice. Substances like mucilage enhance microbial growth, necessitating higher concentrations of preservatives. Recommended effective concentrations typically range from 0.5% to 1%. Several factors influencing preservative efficacy include permeability and pKa (acid dissociation constant). When two preservatives are combined, their concentrations can be reduced if each remains within its effective range.
3.SUSCEPTIBILITY OF MICROORGANISM: Various antimicrobial agents exhibit differential activity against microbial species. For example, hydroxybenzoate demonstrates heightened efficacy against fungi, yeast, and molds, yet their activity against.
4. INTERFERENCE BY INGREDIENTS OF COSMETICS: Several non-ionic surfactants like Tween 80, PEG 400, and PEG 100 can interfere with the activity of preservatives by providing protective effects to microorganisms. Soap and ionic surfactants, when present in low concentrations, promote the growth of gram-negative bacteria. Hydrophilic polymers such as PEG (polyethylene glycol), CMC (carboxymethyl cellulose), PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), and methylcellulose typically have minimal impact on reducing the efficacy of the majority of antimicrobial agents.
5. INFLUENCE OF SOLID PARTICLES: Many cosmetic preparations contain insoluble solid particles such as talc and zinc oxide. Preservative12s can adsorb onto the surface of these solid particles. The degree of adsorption depends on the nature of the solid particles and the pH of the product. Preservatives can also interact with plastics. For instance, quaternary ammonium compounds have been observed to undergo reactions with polyurethane.
Table.1. Recommended preservatives and theirconcentration
INGREDIENTS CAUSING SAFETY CONCERNS/ CONTROVERSIAL INGREDIENTS: · PARABEN
· FORMALDEHYDE LIBERATORS
· DIOXANE
PARABEN [26]
Parabens are widely utilized as preservatives in personal care products, encompassing items like shampoo, lotion, and scrubs. Despite their ubiquity, they have sparked controversy due to health concerns such as endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity, and allergic reactions. Parabens, including Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Methylparaben, and Propylparaben, are esters of P-hydroxybenzoic acid commonly found in cosmetic formulations like shampoos, moisturizers, and toothpaste, as well as in food additives. The safety of parabens has been debated; while the American Cancer Society and FDA consider them relatively safe with negligible risk to the endocrine system and potential allergenicity, they can mimic hormones in the body and disrupt endocrine functions. Regulatory bodies like the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) have set limits on paraben concentrations in cosmetics to ensure consumer safety, determining that methylparaben and ethylparaben are safe at specified maximum concentrations, while butylparaben and propylparaben are also considered safe when used as preservatives in finished cosmetic products. An effective alternative to parabens is Phenoxyethanol, permissible at concentrations up to 1.0% across various product categories. Another viable option includes Sodium Benzoate, often used in conjunction with Potassium Sorbate, with levels up to 2.5% in rinse-off products, over 1.7% in oral care products, and above 0.5% in leave-on products. Benzyl Alcohol also serves as a suitable substitute, demonstrating similar properties through its chemical composition.
DIOXANE [27]
1,4-Dioxane is primarily found in cosmetic products as an inadvertent impurity rather than an intentional component of formulations. It emerges as a secondary product during the industrial synthesis of various cosmetics, notably including shampoos, liquid soaps, and bubble baths. Before regulatory measures were implemented, finished cosmetic items generally contained an average concentration of 50 parts per million (ppm) of 1,4-dioxane, with levels varying from 2 to 279 ppm.
TRICLOSAN [28]
Triclosan, commonly employed in antiseptic soaps, toothpaste, toothbrushes, and body cleansers, undergoes absorption by the body and is detectable in urine. Its efficacy as an antiseptic has been scrutinized. Animal studies have suggested potential endocrine-disrupting effects, although these findings have not been conclusively replicated in human subjects. Triclosan is also implicated in provoking bronchial hyperreactivity and exacerbating asthma. European regulations impose concentration limits of 0.15-0.2% in mouthwashes and 0.3% in nail cleansing products.
TYPES OF CLEANSERS:
1. *Soaps*: Cleansing agents produced through the saponification of fats or oils with alkalis like sodium or potassium hydroxide.
2. *Superfatted Soaps*: Soaps enriched with additional fats or oils to enhance moisturizing properties.
3. *Beauty Bars*: Solid cleansing bars formulated with various additives to cleanse and moisturize the skin, often containing fragrances.
4. *Dermatological Bars or Cakes*: Specialty cleansing bars tailored for specific skin types or conditions, such as acne-prone or sensitive skin.
5. *Liquid Cleansers*: Fluid formulations including facial liquid cleansers, typically containing surfactants and water to cleanse dirt, oil, and makeup from the skin the predominant form of soap is derived from a blend of oils and lipids, sourced from either botanical or animal origins, combined with alkali substances such as sodium or potassium salt[20]. The primary anionic surfactant, soap, upon dissolution in water forms soap salts that efficiently emulsify surface impurities on the skin while elevating its pH. However, these soap salts have been observed to induce swelling within the stratum corneum, potentially leading to depletion of water and natural moisturizing factors, thereby compromising the skin's barrier function and resulting in dryness. To mitigate skin dryness, enriching additives such as glycerin, sweet almond oil, or lanolin can be incorporated into formulations of beauty bars and superfatted soaps.[21] Dermatological bars or cakes, unlike conventional soaps, incorporate modified detergents to enhance their efficacy. To counteract potential skin dryness, weak organic acids, emollients, and anionic surfactants are often added to adjust product pH and maintain skin hydration. Liquid cleansers consist of complex blends of various surfactants including silicone-based, anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic compounds. These formulations aim to preserve the skin's natural pH while utilizing surfactants to emulsify and encapsulate microorganisms for effective removal, thereby providing antibacterial benefits. Research indicates that a liquid cleanser achieved an 85% reduction in bacterial load after hand cleansing, whereas bar soap achieved only a 65% reduction.[22] A relationship between the pH of the skin's surface, the amount of bacterial microflora, and the effects of skin cleansers has been shown in another study. The application of an acidic liquid cleanser led to a reduction in the number of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) bacteria on the skin as well as inflammatory acne lesions. [23] [24]. Liquid cleansers often have an acidic pH, are mild, and have excellent rinsing powers.
PRODUCT TYPES OF CLEANSERS:
· BAR SOAP
· SYNDET BARS
· GELS
· SCRUB
· CREAMS AND LOTION
· TONER
· MASKS
· CLEANSING WIPES
· BATH SALTS
· BATH OIL
· BUBBLE BATH
COMPARISON OF COSMETICS LIQUID CLEANSERS
Table.2. Comparison of cosmetics liquid cleansers
CLEANSER |
SURFACTANT |
MOISTURIZERS |
PRESERVATIVES |
COST |
POSSIBLE ADVERSE EFFECT |
Cetaphil® GENTLE |
Sodium lauryl sulfate |
Cetyl alcohol, propylene glycol, stearyl alcohol |
Parabens (butyl, methyl, propyl) |
$15.99/460ml |
Disrup skin barrier irritant derma |
Derma Jel® |
5 anionic sodium-based surfactants (including sodium laurate sulfate), amphoteric and nonionic Surfactants |
glycerin, glycol distearate, laureth-10. PEG- 150 distearate. |
DMDM hydantoin, Quaternium-15 |
$10.99/500ml |
Disrup skin barrier irritant derma |
Neutrogena? Liquid Facial Cleanser |
4 anionic sodium-based surfactants, amphoteric surfactants |
glycerin |
BHT, Lauraimide DEA |
$10.99/200ml |
Disrupt skin barrier irritant derma |
Toleraine® |
capryl glycol |
capryl glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, octyl palmitate, octoxyglycerin |
capryl glycol, octoxyglycerin |
$17.00/200ml |
Disrup skin barrie irritan derma |
Four cosmetic liquid cleansers are listed in Table 2, representing a combination of physicians' recommendations and Canadian consumers' favorites. It is important to note that some goods may not be available outside of Canada. One such product is Derma Jel®, which is the in-store brand for Shopper's Drug Mart, a well-known national chain of pharmacies. While most Canadian merchants compete with Spectro Jel® by selling store-brand cleansers, a close look at the ingredients shows significant variations across the products.
There are different types of make-up removers:
MICELLAR WATER
It has been recognized as the latest multifunctional treatment to reduce skin irritation. [31].Micellar water, originating over a century ago in France, has gained popularity among skincare enthusiasts, cosmetics professionals, and online influencers as a gentle alternative to traditional water-based cleansers. Unlike plain water, micellar water has a distinct texture and viscosity due to its composition of micelles—small cleansing molecules, which we will delve into shortly. These micelles effectively capture and remove pollutants from the skin's surface without causing dryness. Thus, micellar water serves as a gentle cleanser and makeup remover that eliminates the need for rinsing post-application. Due to its mild and nourishing properties, micellar water is particularly suitable for individuals with dry or sensitive skin.The foaming process is driven by surfactants, crucial components found in detergents, shampoos, and soaps. Surfactants exhibit dual characteristics: one end is hydrophilic, attracting water molecules and repelling oils, while the other end is lipophilic, attracting oil molecules and repelling water molecules.[32] The effects of surfactants can vary; some can cause irritation and damage to the epidermal barrier.[33] Micelles are aggregates formed when an appropriate concentration of surfactants is dispersed in water, as seen in micellar water. These minute structures possess the ability to attract and encapsulate cosmetics, oils, dirt, and impurities.Due to their non-covalent assembly, micelles can readily reorganize without forming a singular molecule.[34]Micelles are assemblies formed when an optimal concentration of surfactants is introduced into water, as exemplified in micellar water. These minute structures exhibit the capacity to attract and solubilize grime, grease, dirt, and makeup. Due to their non-covalent nature, micelles can dynamically reorganize without forming a singular molecule.[35]
FORMULATION OF VITAMIN B MICELLAR WATER[36].
Since gentle cleansing solutions effectively remove pollution and excess sebum from the outer world, they are crucial for maintaining clear, healthy, and beautiful skin. While some prefer the relaxing properties of micellar waters, others prefer their cleaning products to be gels, powders, or foams. Micellar waters offer a gentle yet effective cleansing step in beauty regimens. Despite having a clear, liquid form, they differ from facial toners because they contain surfactants, which are active surface agents that aid in removing debris, makeup, and oil from the skin's surface. Due to the nature of these surfactants, dirt is drawn to the lipophilic side of the surfactant and their hydrophilic part is easier to rinse off. Micellar waters are commonly supplemented with humectants and other beneficial chemicals in addition to surfactants.
ROLE OF NIACINAMIDE: -
Niacinamide is the active form of vitamin B3, and it's utilized a lot in cosmetic products because of its amazing efficacy. Because of its remarkable capacity to minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and to brighten the skin by regulating melanosome activity, it is often incorporated into anti-aging products. Additionally, niacinamide possesses antioxidant properties that aid in preventing oxidative processes in the skin, including the oxidation of proteins. Furthermore, it contributes to the reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which lowers inflammation and redness, and the strengthening of the lipid barrier.
Ingredients in our Vitamin B Micellar Water include:
100g is the suggested starting batch size.
Method: The use of cold processing.
It lasts for around fifteen minutes.
Difficulty: Simple, easily adjustable formulation that may be tailored to each person's preferences.
Required Tools:
1. Precision scales
2. pH meter
3. Glass beakers, stirring rods, and spatulas
4. Pipettes
5. Appropriate storage vessel
PHASE |
INGREDIENTS |
INCI |
WEIGHT (G) |
A |
Distilled Water |
Aqua |
61.90 |
A |
Helichrysu M Hydrosol |
Helichrysum Italicum Distillate |
20.00 |
A |
Pa-3 Chelator |
Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol |
0.10 |
A |
Pentylene Glycol |
Pentylene Glycol |
2.00 |
A |
Glycerin |
Glycerin |
2.00 |
B |
Vitamin B3 |
Niacinamide |
4.00 |
C |
Cucumber Hydro Extract |
Glycerin, Cucumis, Sativus Fruit Extract, Aqua |
5.00 |
D |
Decyl Glucoside |
Decyl Glucoside |
4.00 |
E |
Euxyl K 903 |
Benzyl Alcohol, Benzoicacid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Tocopherol. |
1.00 |
F |
pH Adjuster (Lactic Acid) |
Lactic Acid |
Q.S. |
Manufacturing Procedure:
Preparation:
By following these steps meticulously, you can ensure the precise formulation of the product while maintaining quality and safety standards.
MARKETED MICELLAR WATER
Table.no.3. Marketed micellar water
MARKETED PRODUCT |
INGREDIENTS |
MANUFACTURE BY |
Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water |
AQUA_/ WATER, HEXYLENE, GLYCOL GLYCERIN, DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE DISODIUM EDTA, MYRTRIMONIUM BROMIDE, POLOXAMER 184 (F.I.L. B178838/0) |
L'Oreal India Pvt. |
MAMAEARTH Micellar water |
Rose Water, Glycolic AcidGlycerin, citric acid disodium EDTA, d-panthenol, sodium PCA Glycerin. |
Indo Herbal Products |
SIMPLE Micellar Water |
Vitamin B3, Vitamin C, Hexylene Glycol |
AERO PHARMA |
BIODERMA DERMATOLOGICAL MICELLAR WTER |
Aqua/Water/Eau, Peg-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Fructooligosaccharides, Mannitol, Xylitol, Rhamnose, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Propylene Glycol, Cetrimonium Bromide, Disodium Edta. |
NAOS SKIN CARE INDIA PVT.LTD |
LAKME MICELLAR WATER |
Water, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Propanediol, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium EDTA, |
HINDUSTAN UNILEVER LIMITED |
CONCLUSION
Cleansers now provide gentleness and moisture in addition to their primary function of eliminating bacteria, oils, and debris from the skin. Modern wash-off treatments try to limit damage to the skin while investigating ways to deliver additional skin care advantages, in contrast to soap-based choices that can cause dryness and irritation by reacting with skin components. A breakthrough that was developed about fifty years ago, called Syndet bars, dramatically decreased the risk of skin harm. Though they are usually rinsed away, properly blending moisturizing ingredients into cleansers is still a technological difficulty. Emollients are essential for limiting barrier damage because they restore lost lipids and proteins after cleansing and lessen the interaction between surfactants and skin constituents. New developments in non-woven technology and liquid cleansers offer intriguing ways to improve moisturization during the process of cleaning. Emollients, occlusives, humectants, and nutrients are already combined in skin cleansing solutions that are now available on the market. Current wash-off system research endeavors to broaden the scope of skincare advantages, propelling the creation of novel technologies and product compositions in the coming years.
REFERENCES
Bushra khan, Naazrein Sayyed, Juned khan, Dr. Sudha Rathod, Anjali Rai, Facial Skin Cleansers, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2025, Vol 3, Issue 6, 2404-2418. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.15648181
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