Formulation And Evaluation of Herbal Sunscreen Cream: A Review

Human skin acts as the primary barrier against environmental hazards and ultraviolet radiation. Continuous exposure to solar radiation causes oxidative stress, premature aging, inflammation, hyperpigmentation, DNA damage, and skin cancer [1,2]. Ultraviolet radiation is categorized into UVA (320–400 nm), UVB (280–320 nm), and UVC (100–280 nm). While UVC is largely absorbed by the ozone layer, UVA and UVB reach the earth’s surface and contribute significantly to skin damage [3,4].

Sunscreens are topical preparations designed to protect the skin from UV radiation by absorbing, reflecting, or scattering UV rays. Conventional sunscreens contain chemical filters such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, avobenzone, and octocrylene or physical filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide [5]. However, concerns regarding skin irritation, hormonal disruption, photoinstability, and environmental toxicity have encouraged the search for safer alternatives [6].

Herbal sunscreen creams utilize phytochemicals with UV-absorbing and antioxidant properties. Plant-derived compounds such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, carotenoids, tannins, and terpenoids provide natural photoprotection and may enhance skin health through anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects [7–9].

2. Skin and Ultraviolet Radiation

2.1 Structure of Skin

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and serves as a protective barrier against environmental factors, microorganisms, chemicals, and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. It also plays a vital role in thermoregulation, sensation, immune defense, and maintenance of fluid balance. Structurally, the skin consists of three major layers: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis (subcutaneous tissue).

 

 

Fig- Structure of Skin

Together, these three layers function as an integrated protective system that shields the body from physical, chemical, microbial, and ultraviolet damage while maintaining physiological homeostasis. For sunscreen formulations, the epidermis and dermis are particularly important because ultraviolet radiation primarily affects these layers, causing sunburn, photoaging, pigmentation disorders, and skin cancer.

The epidermis contains keratinocytes and melanocytes responsible for pigmentation and protection against UV radiation [10].

2.2 Effects of UV Radiation

UVA Radiation

• Penetrates deeply into the dermis
• Causes photoaging and wrinkles
• Generates reactive oxygen species (ROS)

UVB Radiation

• Causes sunburn and erythema
• Directly damages DNA
• Responsible for skin carcinogenesis

UVC Radiation

• Highly energetic
• Mostly absorbed by atmospheric ozone [11].

3. Need for Herbal Sunscreen Creams

The growing awareness of skin health, environmental sustainability, and the potential adverse effects associated with synthetic sunscreen agents has led to increased interest in herbal sunscreen formulations. Consumers are increasingly seeking natural, safe, and multifunctional cosmetic products that not only protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation but also promote overall skin health. As a result, herbal sunscreen creams have emerged as promising alternatives to conventional sunscreens due to their ability to provide photoprotection along with several additional therapeutic benefits.

Ultraviolet radiation, particularly UVA and UVB rays, is a major environmental factor responsible for skin damage. Prolonged exposure to UV radiation can cause erythema (sunburn), hyperpigmentation, photoaging, immune suppression, oxidative stress, DNA damage, and skin cancer. Conventional sunscreens containing synthetic UV filters such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, avobenzone, and octocrylene are effective in preventing UV-induced skin damage; however, concerns regarding skin irritation, allergic reactions, hormonal disruption, photoinstability, and environmental toxicity have encouraged researchers to explore safer alternatives.

Herbal sunscreen creams utilize plant-derived extracts, oils, and bioactive compounds that possess natural UV-absorbing and antioxidant properties. Medicinal plants are rich sources of flavonoids, polyphenols, tannins, carotenoids, anthocyanins, and terpenoids, which can absorb ultraviolet radiation and neutralize free radicals generated during sun exposure. These phytochemicals help minimize oxidative damage to skin cells and reduce the harmful effects of UV radiation.

One of the major advantages of herbal sunscreen creams is their strong antioxidant activity. UV radiation stimulates the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which can damage cellular proteins, lipids, and DNA, accelerating the aging process. Herbal ingredients such as green tea, turmeric, Aloe vera, pomegranate, licorice, and Calendula officinalis contain powerful antioxidants that scavenge free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

In addition to photoprotection, herbal ingredients exhibit significant anti-inflammatory properties. Exposure to UV radiation often results in inflammation, redness, swelling, and irritation of the skin. Natural compounds such as curcumin, aloe-emodin, glycyrrhizin, and catechins help reduce inflammatory responses by inhibiting the release of pro-inflammatory mediators. Consequently, herbal sunscreens not only protect against UV damage but also soothe irritated and sensitive skin.

Another important benefit of herbal sunscreen creams is their moisturizing effect. Many plant extracts contain polysaccharides, essential fatty acids, and natural humectants that help maintain skin hydration and prevent dryness caused by prolonged sun exposure. Ingredients such as Aloe vera, cucumber extract, almond oil, and coconut oil contribute to improved skin softness, elasticity, and barrier function.

Herbal sunscreens also possess wound-healing and skin-repair properties. Continuous exposure to sunlight can impair the skin's natural healing mechanisms and damage structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. Herbal constituents promote tissue regeneration, stimulate collagen synthesis, and accelerate the repair of damaged skin cells. These properties make herbal sunscreen formulations particularly beneficial for maintaining healthy and youthful skin.

The increasing popularity of herbal sunscreens is also driven by environmental concerns. Certain synthetic sunscreen chemicals have been reported to adversely affect aquatic ecosystems, particularly coral reefs. Plant-based sunscreen ingredients are generally biodegradable and environmentally friendly, making them more sustainable alternatives for long-term use.[12].

Advantages include:

• Natural origin
• Better consumer acceptance
• Reduced skin irritation
• Antioxidant protection
• Biodegradability
• Eco-friendly nature

Limitations include:

• Batch-to-batch variability
• Stability issues
• Limited regulatory guidelines

• Lower SPF compared with some synthetic filters [13].

4. Mechanism of Photoprotection by Herbal Constituents

Plant-derived compounds protect skin through:

4.1 UV Absorption

Flavonoids and polyphenols possess conjugated aromatic structures capable of absorbing UVA and UVB radiation [8,14].

4.2 Antioxidant Activity

UV exposure generates ROS that damage cellular proteins, lipids, and DNA. Antioxidants neutralize these radicals and reduce oxidative stress [15].

4.3 Anti-inflammatory Action

Many herbal constituents inhibit inflammatory mediators induced by UV exposure, reducing erythema and tissue damage [16].

4.4 DNA Protection

Certain phytochemicals prevent DNA mutations and support cellular repair mechanisms [17].

5. Herbal Ingredients Used in Sunscreen Creams

5.1 Aloe vera

Aloe vera contains vitamins, polysaccharides, amino acids, and antioxidants that soothe the skin and reduce UV-induced damage [18].

Functions

• Moisturizing agent
• Anti-inflammatory effect
• Antioxidant activity

5.2 Curcuma longa (Turmeric)

Curcumin exhibits strong antioxidant and photoprotective properties.

Functions

• UV absorption
• Anti-inflammatory activity
• Anti-aging effect [19]

5.3 Green Tea (Camellia sinensis)

Rich in catechins and polyphenols.

Functions

• Scavenges free radicals
• Prevents photoaging
• Enhances SPF value [20]

5.4 Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice)

Contains glabridin and flavonoids.

Functions

• Skin lightening
• Anti-inflammatory effect
• Photoprotection [21]

5.5 Calendula officinalis

Provides antioxidant and wound-healing activities.

Functions

• Skin repair
• Anti-inflammatory action
• UV protection [22]

5.6 Sesame Oil

Contains lignans and vitamin E.

Functions

• Natural UV filter
• Emollient property
• Antioxidant effect [23]

6. Formulation of Herbal Sunscreen Cream

6.1 Selection of Ingredients

Oil Phase

• Stearic acid
• Cetyl alcohol
• Beeswax
• Liquid paraffin

Aqueous Phase

• Distilled water
• Glycerin
• Herbal extracts

Preservatives

• Methyl paraben
• Propyl paraben

Fragrance

• Rose oil
• Lavender oil

6.2 Method of Preparation

Step 1

Prepare oil phase and heat to 70–75°C.

Step 2

Prepare aqueous phase separately.

Step 3

Mix both phases with continuous stirring.

Step 4

Add herbal extracts and fragrance.

Step 5

Homogenize and cool to room temperature [24].

7. Evaluation of Herbal Sunscreen Cream

7.1 Physical Appearance

Examined for:

• Color
• Odor
• Texture
• Homogeneity

7.2 pH Determination

Ideal pH range: 5.5–7.0.

7.3 Spreadability

Determines ease of application on the skin.

7.4 Viscosity

Measured using Brookfield viscometer.

7.5 Washability

Determines ease of removal with water.

7.6 Skin Irritation Test

Assesses safety on human or animal skin [25].

8. Determination of Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

SPF indicates the ability of a sunscreen to protect against UVB radiation.

The Mansur equation is commonly used:

SPF = CF × Σ EE(λ) × I(λ) × Abs(λ)

Where:

CF = Correction factor

EE = Erythemal effect spectrum

I = Solar intensity spectrum

Abs = Absorbance

UV spectrophotometry is widely used for in vitro SPF determination [26].

9. Recent Research on Herbal Sunscreen Creams

Numerous studies have demonstrated significant SPF values using herbal extracts.

• Curcumin-based formulations showed enhanced photoprotection.
• Aloe vera incorporated creams exhibited moisturizing and antioxidant effects.
• Green tea polyphenols improved SPF and anti-aging activity.
• Sesame oil and sea buckthorn oil formulations demonstrated SPF values ranging from 6–21 [27].
• Multi-herbal creams showed better UVA and UVB protection due to synergistic phytochemical effects [28].

10. Advantages of Herbal Sunscreen Cream

• Broad spectrum protection
• Antioxidant activity
• Anti-aging benefits
• Reduced adverse effects
• Skin nourishment
• Environmental sustainability

11. Challenges and Future Prospects

Challenges include:

• Stability of phytoconstituents
• Standardization of extracts
• Regulatory approval
• Scale-up difficulties

Future research should focus on:

• Nanotechnology-based herbal sunscreens
• Clinical efficacy studies
• Standardized phytochemical markers
• Combination of herbal and mineral UV filters [29].

CONCLUSION

Herbal sunscreen creams represent a promising alternative to conventional synthetic sunscreens. The presence of flavonoids, polyphenols, carotenoids, and other phytoconstituents provides photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging benefits. Numerous medicinal plants such as Aloe vera, Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Calendula officinalis, and Camellia sinensis have demonstrated significant UV-protective potential. Proper formulation and evaluation are essential to ensure efficacy, stability, and safety. Continued research and clinical validation will support the development of effective herbal sunscreen products with improved SPF and consumer acceptance.

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