Formulation & Evaluation of Aegle marmelos Cream Scrub

The skin, the body’s largest organ, plays a crucial role in providing a physical barrier against harmful environmental agents, regulating water loss, and maintaining immunological and homeostatic functions. For optimal physiological performance, particularly in the stratum corneum—the outermost layer—the skin requires adequate hydration, generally maintained at a minimum of 10% water content. This hydration is essential for preserving skin elasticity, structural integrity, and barrier function^[1]

In addition to its physiological roles, skin health significantly influences an individual's aesthetic appearance and psychosocial well-being. Skin conditions such as dryness, rough texture, dullness, and premature aging are often manifestations of oxidative stress induced by reactive oxygen species (ROS). These free radicals can result from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pollution, and other environmental stressors, leading to damage of cellular proteins, lipids, and DNA. Antioxidants play a pivotal role in counteracting oxidative damage by neutralizing ROS and supporting cellular repair mechanisms^[2]

Although the human body produces endogenous antioxidants, their quantity is often insufficient to combat prolonged or excessive oxidative stress. Hence, exogenous supplementation through topical applications has gained attention as a supportive strategy for skin protection and rejuvenation. Among the various topical formulations, body scrubs serve a dual function: mechanical exfoliation of dead skin cells and enhancement of microcirculation, both of which contribute to improved skin texture and appearance

In recent years, there has been a paradigm shift in consumer preference toward natural and plant-based skincare products. This transition is fueled by growing concerns about the environmental and health impacts of synthetic ingredients. Consequently, research and development in the cosmetic and dermaceutical industries have focused on botanical alternatives that offer bioactivity with minimal side effects and ecological footprint^[3]

Aegle marmelos (Bael), a medicinal plant extensively used in Ayurvedic formulations, exhibits potent antioxidant properties attributed to its rich content of flavonoids, phenolic compounds, and vitamins. These constituents are known to protect against UV-induced oxidative stress, reduce inflammation, and support dermal regeneration. Despite its well-documented pharmacological potential, the application of Aegle marmelos in topical cosmetic formulations remains underexplored^[4]

Papaver somniferum (poppy) seeds, on the other hand, are recognized for their gentle exfoliating capability and moisturizing benefits due to their natural oil content and fine granularity. These characteristics make them an ideal physical exfoliant for inclusion in body scrub formulations, particularly for sensitive or dry skin types

Given the synergistic potential of combining the antioxidant-rich Aegle marmelos with the exfoliating and emollient properties of poppy seeds, the present study aims to develop and evaluate a novel herbal cream scrub formulation. The formulation is designed to deliver enhanced antioxidant defence, effective exfoliation, and skin moisturization, while ensuring formulation stability and consumer acceptability. This investigation further aligns with the global trend of promoting sustainable, plant-based skincare solutions with reduced ecological impact^[5]

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Plant Materials

The careful selection of plant-derived raw materials is a fundamental step in the development of herbal cosmetic formulations, as the therapeutic and cosmetic efficacy of the final product depends largely on the bioactive phytoconstituents present. In the present study, two botanicals of high pharmacological and cosmetic relevance were employed: Aegle marmelos (commonly known as Bael) and Papaver somniferum (poppy seeds). Both species have a long history of use in traditional medicine systems and have been scientifically reported to possess skin-beneficial properties, making them suitable for incorporation into exfoliating and antioxidant-rich cosmetic products.

1. Aegle marmelos (Bael)

Aegle marmelos (L.), commonly known as Bael, is a culturally revered and medicinally significant plant belonging to the family Rutaceae. Native to the Indian subcontinent, it is a medium-sized, deciduous tree characterized by aromatic trifoliate leaves and greenish-yellow fruits. It thrives in dry forests, plains, and cultivated areas across India and other tropical regions of South and Southeast Asia. Ethnopharmacological records indicate that almost all parts of the plant—including the roots, bark, leaves, fruit, and seeds—are extensively used in Ayurvedic, Unani, and Siddha formulations for their diverse therapeutic applications.

In the context of skincare, Aegle marmelos leaves are particularly valued for their high content of bioactive phytoconstituents, such as flavonoids, tannins, saponins, alkaloids, and coumarins. These compounds have been scientifically reported to exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound-healing activities. Flavonoids, in particular, play a critical role in combating oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals, thereby protecting skin cells from premature aging. Tannins provide astringent effects that help tighten skin pores, while alkaloids and coumarins contribute to antimicrobial and photoprotective benefits^[6]

Topical application of Aegle marmelos leaf extract has been associated with:

• Reduction of UV-induced oxidative damage and prevention of photoaging
• Soothing of skin irritation and reduction of erythema
• Acceleration of healing in minor cuts, abrasions, and infections
• Inhibition of microbial growth, making it beneficial for acne-prone skin
• Protection against environmental pollutants through antioxidant defense mechanisms

For the present formulation, Aegle marmelos leaf extract was obtained via ethanolic maceration to ensure efficient extraction of both polar and non-polar phytoconstituents. Ethanol was selected as the extraction solvent due to its broad-spectrum solubility, ability to preserve thermolabile compounds, and compatibility with cosmetic formulations. This extraction process enhances the bioactivity and stability of the final herbal cream scrub, ensuring its efficacy in delivering antioxidant protection, anti-inflammatory effects, and overall skin rejuvenation.

2. Papaver somniferum  (Poppy Seeds)

Papaver somniferum L., a member of the family Papaveraceae, is an annual herbaceous plant cultivated globally for its seeds and medicinally relevant alkaloids^[7,8]. The seeds are small, kidney-shaped, and oil-rich, with a long history of use in both culinary and therapeutic applications^[7,9]. In topical cosmetic formulations, poppy seeds are recognized for their gentle exfoliating capability, owing to their fine granular texture, which facilitates the removal of dead skin cells without causing mechanical irritation or microtears^[8,10].

Poppy seeds are a valuable source of essential fatty acids, notably linoleic acid and oleic acid, which play a critical role in maintaining the skin barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL)^[9,10]. They also provide micronutrients such as zinc, calcium, and magnesium, which are important for enzymatic processes involved in skin regeneration and repair^[8,10]. Furthermore, the seeds contain natural antioxidants, including phenolic compounds and tocopherols, which help mitigate oxidative stress induced by ultraviolet radiation and environmental pollutants, thereby slowing the onset of premature skin aging^[9,11].

Due to their mild abrasive nature and nutrient profile, poppy seeds are particularly suitable for sensitive and dry skin types, offering effective exfoliation while simultaneously nourishing and softening the skin^[10]. When incorporated into an herbal cream scrub alongside Aegle marmelos leaf extract, they contribute synergistically to a multifunctional cosmetic product that delivers exfoliation, hydration, antioxidant protection, and skin rejuvenation^[8,9].

For the present study, poppy seeds were sourced from authenticated suppliers, thoroughly cleaned, and gently processed to preserve their nutrient integrity^[7]. The combination of Aegle marmelos and poppy seeds in the cream scrub reflects a targeted approach to herbal cosmetic formulation, emphasizing safety, efficacy, and alignment with clean and green cosmetic trends^[8,10].

Preparation of Aegle marmelos Extract^[12]

10 grams of market-purchased Aegle marmelos leaf powder was soaked in 100 mL of 70% ethanol in a sealed glass container. The mixture was stored at room temperature for 7 days, with occasional shaking during the maceration process. After the extraction period, the mixture was filtered first through muslin cloth and then through Whatman filter paper. The filtrate was concentrated using a water bath at 40–50 °C, followed by drying to obtain a semi-solid ethanolic extract. The extract was stored in an airtight container under refrigeration until use.

Formulation and Development of Body Scrub

Table I: Master formula of Cream Scrub

All ingredients were accurately weighed prior to the initiation of the formulation process. The components were divided into two primary phases: oil phase and aqueous phase.

• Oil Phase: Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, shea butter, coconut oil, emulsifying wax, and coco glucoside were transferred into a clean beaker and heated in a water bath to 70–75 °C. Continuous stirring was performed until complete melting and uniform blending of all constituents was achieved.
• Aqueous Phase: Distilled water was heated separately to 70–75 °C in another beaker. Aegle marmelos extract and ascorbic acid were dissolved into the heated distilled water with gentle stirring.

Once both phases reached the target temperature, the aqueous phase was slowly incorporated into the oil phase with continuous homogenization to obtain a stable emulsion. The mixture was allowed to cool to 45–50 °C, at which stage poppy seeds were incorporated to impart exfoliating properties. On further cooling to below 40 °C, methyl paraben (as a preservative) and essential oil (as a fragrance agent) were added. The formulation was mixed until a uniform, smooth, and creamy texture was achieved. The finished cream scrub was then transferred into pre-sterilized containers and stored at ambient conditions for further evaluation.

Evaluation Parameters

The prepared cream scrub was subjected to evaluation based on its physical and sensory attributes. The following parameters were assessed:

The organoleptic evaluation was conducted to assess the physical appearance of the formulation, including colour, odour, and consistency. The colour and consistency were examined visually under adequate lighting conditions, while the odour was assessed by olfactory perception to determine its acceptability.

Fig 1: Organoleptic properties

pH Determination^[14]

The pH of the formulated cream scrub was determined to assess its compatibility with the skin’s natural pH range. A small quantity of the formulation was applied to pH indicator paper, and the value was recorded. The observed pH range of 5.0–6.0 falls within the acceptable limit for dermal preparations, ensuring minimal risk of irritation and optimal product stability.

Spreadability Test^[14]

Spreadability was evaluated to determine the ease of topical application and uniform distribution over the skin surface. Approximately 1 g of the formulation was placed at the center of a clean glass plate. Another glass plate was gently positioned over the sample and left undisturbed for 1 minute, after which the spread diameter was measured. Subsequently, a 50 g weight was applied to the upper plate, and the final spread diameter was recorded.

The spreadability coefficient (S) was calculated using the formula:

S = m × l/t

As per cosmetic formulation standards, an ideal spreadability diameter of 5–7 cm indicates an optimal consistency that facilitates ease of application and consumer acceptability.

Washability Test^[15]

Washability was assessed by applying a small amount of the scrub to the skin, followed by rinsing with water at ambient temperature. The ease and completeness of removal were qualitatively evaluated, which is essential for ensuring consumer satisfaction and practical usability.

Skin Irritation Test^[15]

Dermal irritation potential was evaluated using the open patch test method. A defined quantity of the formulation was applied to a demarcated forearm area (2.5 × 2.5 cm) and allowed to dry. The test site was examined for erythema, edema, or other signs of irritation at 0, 24, 48, and 72 hours post-application. The absence of visible dermal reactions indicated good skin tolerance of the formulation.

Foamability Test^[16]

Foamability was assessed to evaluate the product’s ability to generate foam upon contact with water. A measured quantity of the scrub was mixed with water in a measuring cylinder and gently shaken. The height and stability of foam formation were recorded, providing an indication of surfactant efficiency and consumer perception attributes.

Homogeneity Test^[16]

The homogeneity of the cream scrub was evaluated by applying 0.1 g of the formulation onto a clean glass slide and observing it visually under adequate illumination. A homogeneous preparation was characterized by the absence of aggregates, lumps, or phase separation, ensuring uniform texture and consistency throughout the batch.

Acid Value Determination^[17]

The acid value, indicative of the free fatty acid content and formulation stability, was determined according to standard titrimetric procedures. A 10 g sample of the formulation was dissolved in 50 ml of a pre-neutralized (0.1 M KOH) 1:1 ethanol (95%):ether mixture. After complete dissolution, 1 ml of phenolphthalein indicator was added, and the mixture was titrated against 0.1 M KOH until a persistent faint pink endpoint was achieved.

The acid value was calculated using the equation:

Acid Value = 5.61 × (n / w).

RESULT AND DISCUSSION:

A cream scrub was successfully formulated using Aegle marmelos leaf extract and poppy seeds as natural exfoliants. The extract was prepared by macerating 10 g of leaf powder in 100 ml ethanol. The cream base of emulsifying wax, shea butter, coco glucoside, and coconut oil was blended with the extract and exfoliant to produce a smooth, stable formulation with uniform texture, even particle dispersion, and a pleasant herbal aroma. The product showed desirable cosmetic attributes and potential as a plant-based exfoliating skincare formulation.

Fig 2: Body scrub Cream Preparation

Table 2: Comparative Results of Evaluation Parameters of Different Batches of Aegle marmelos Scrub