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Abstract

Natural beauty merchandise is gaining reputation as extra consumers search for safer & greater herbal options to synthetic cosmetics. In compact powders, artificial pigments can every so often motive pores & skin irritation, hypersensitive reactions, dryness & other long-term facet effects. With this in mind, the present observe specializes in the system & assessment of an herbal color-corrective compact powder made using herbal pigments extracted from Butterfly Pea Flower, Turmeric, Neem, Carrot & Beetroot. The pigments had been acquired using suitable extraction strategies which includes maceration & solvent extraction with Ethanol & Acidic Media. The extracts have been then standardized using UV-seen spectrophotometry to estimate Anthocyanins, Curcumin, Chlorophyll, Carotenoids & Betalains to enhance stability, lessen degradation & extend shelf life, the extracts had been micro-encapsulated the usage of Gum Acacia & Maltodextrin. The compact powder base became prepared using Rice Starch Powder, Kaolin Clay, Multani Mitti & Zinc Oxide, numerous batches had been organized by way of varying the pigment concentrations to achieve the great shade-corrective impact for issues along with uneven skin tone, dullness, redness, pigmentation & dark spots. The final formulation was evaluated for organoleptic properties, particle length, pH, drift houses, spreadability, oil absorption ability, colour uniformity, pores & skin tone adaptability, washability, irritancy & stability. The product confirmed a easy texture, proper spreadability, suitable oil absorption, a pleasant appearance & powerful correction of skin tone. Balance testing also confirmed only minimal changes in shade, odour, texture & pH.

Keywords

Butterfly pea, Curcumin, Chlorophyll, Carotenoids, Beetroot pigment & Micro-encapsulation.

Introduction

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Cosmetic powders are extensively used internationally to beautify facial look, manipulate extra oil & deliver the pores & skin a clean, even finish. Conventional powders normally rely on mineral pigments along with titanium dioxide, talc & iron oxide blends to cover imperfections. However, recent dermatological findings advocate that extended use of synthetic pigments may result in skin sensitivity, touch allergies & moderate infection[5,10,16]. In addition, conventional powders frequently create a fixed, heavy-searching opacity that may appear unnatural & can also cover the pores & skin’s natural vitality[2,3]. To deal with these obstacles, the cosmetic enterprise is an increasing number of turning to inexperienced chemistry & shade science[14,18]. Colour correction works by the usage of complementary sun shades to stability skin tone variations in a greater herbal way as opposed to sincerely masking them with a thick layer of pigment[20]. As an instance, green tones help reduce the arrival of redness, lavender can neutralize yellow or stupid undertones, orange can help hide hyper-pigmentation & yellow can brighten dark regions[20,66]. Natural plant-derived compounds such as Anthocyanins, Curcumin, Chlorophyll & Carotenoids can play a vital role in these corrective results[17,21,30,35]. At the same time, the use of uncooked botanical extracts immediately in topical powders comes with several challenges. Herbal pigments are often risky & can lose their colour fast when exposed to moisture, mild or warmness[26,29,116]. They will additionally have an effect on the feel of the powder, clump during garage or leave robust stains in remote regions, all of that can reduce patron acceptability[20,76]. To triumph over those problems, this formula makes use of micro-encapsulation era[40,41]. In this procedure, the natural pigment fractions are enclosed inside a protecting shell fabricated from Gum Acacia & Maltodextrin[42,45]. This allows protect the lively molecules from environmental damage, reduces degradation & helps greater even distribution all through the cosmetic base[43,95]. The formula also uses bio-polymers that reply intelligently to skin conditions. Anthocyanins from Clitoria ternatea act as a herbal pH-touchy ingredient, allowing the product to adapt slightly to the skin’s micro-surroundings & supplement person undertones[21,23].

MATERIALS & METHODS :-

  • Materials –
  • Ingredients :

Butterfly Pea Powder, Neem Powder, Turmeric Powder, Beetroot Powder, Carrot Powder, Gum Acacia, Rice Starch, Zinc Oxide, Kaolin Clay, Multani Mitti, Maltodextrin & Sandalwood Oil.

  • Chemicals : HCl.
  • Solvent : Water & Ethanol.
  • Apparatus :

Weighing Balance, Beakers, Glass Rod, Conical Flask, Measuring Cylinder, Water Bath, Cuvette, Mortar & Pestle, Amber Coloured Containers & Funnel.

  • Instruments :

UV Spectrophotometer, pH Meter, Hot Air Oven, Homogenizer, Sieving Machine & Bulk Density Apparatus.

  • Methods -
  1. Extraction of Anthocyanins from Butterfly Pea :

Fig.1 :- Extraction of Anthocyanins from Butterfly Pea.

  • Procedure :

20 g of butterfly pea powder was transferred in a clean beaker.

Then, 100 ml of ethanol & 20 ml of distilled water had been added, followed by 1 ml of HCl, making the combination of overall 121 ml [21,24,55].

The combination was stirred properly with a stirrer rod & kept in the dark for 24 hours [119].

It was then filtered using filter paper & the filtrate was concentrated at 40°C [56,131].

The final extract of overall 50 ml was saved in an amber-colored container to protect it from light [29,116].

  1. Extraction of Curcumin from Turmeric –

Copy of IMG-20260512-WA0082.jpg Copy of IMG20260515114028.jpg

Fig.2 :- Extraction of Curcumin from Turmeric.

  • Procedure :

22 g of turmeric powder was taken in a beaker. A mixture of 30 ml ethanol & 70 ml acetone was introduced , making the combination of general 100 ml & the contents were stirred very well [30,56].

The mixture was kept in dark for 24 hours before filtration. The solvent was then evaporated at 40°C, & the final extract of overall 50 ml became gathered [86].

  1. Extraction of Chlorophyll from Neem –

WhatsApp Image 2026-05-30 at 1.18.19 AM.jpeg

Fig.3 :- Extraction of Chlorophyll from Neem.

  • Procedure :

20 g of neem powder was combined with 60 ml ethanol & 120 ml acetone, making the combination of overall a 180 ml [55,119].

The mixture was stirred well & kept in dark for 24 hours.

It was then filtered, & the extract was concentrated at 40°C. The very last extract of general 40 ml turned into stored in an amber bottle to maintain its stability [29].

  1. Extraction of Carotenoids from Carrot –

Copy of IMG20260515102353.jpg

Fig.4 :- Extraction of Carotenoids from Carrot.

  • Procedure :

20 g of carrot powder was taken into a clean beaker & blended with 22-25 ml ethanol & 42-45 ml ethyl acetate, observed through 100 ml of acetone [35,56].

The combination was stirred nicely & allowed to face for 24 hours.

After filtration, the extract became concentrated under 40°C, & the carotenoid-wealthy fraction of general 43 ml became accumulated [88].

  1. Extraction of Betalains from Beetroot -

 

20260513_121800PMByGPSMapCamera.jpg 20260515_110428AMByGPSMapCamera.jpg 20260519_105804AMByGPSMapCamera.jpg

Fig.5 :- Extraction of Betalains from Beetroot.

 

  • Procedure :

To extract betalains from beetroot, 22 g of beetroot powder was placed in a beaker, & 35 ml ethanol & 35 ml acetic acid were added [27,38].

The mixture was stirred thoroughly & kept in the dark for 24 hours [39].

The final mixture of total 40 ml was then filtered, concentrated below 40°C & stored in an amber-coloured container [116].

STANDARDIZATION OF EXTRACTS :-

  • Materials required –

Butterfly Pea Extract, Turmeric Extract, Neem Extract, Carrot Extract & Beetroot Extract.

  • Solvent – Ethanol.
  • Apparatus –

Glass Beakers, Measuring Cylinder & Quartz Cuvette.

  • Instrument – UV-Visible Spectrophotometer (Shimadzu Software).
  • Procedure -

 

The extracted pigments were standardized using UV-visible spectrophotometer to confirm their identity & check their absorbance behavior [57,130].

For each extract, a diluted solution was prepared first. The instrument was calibrated using the blank solvent, after which the sample solution was placed in a separate cuvette & its absorbance was recorded [58].

After every reading, the cuvette was washed with distilled water to avoid contamination [63,132].

This procedure was repeated for all the pigment extracts.

  • Wavelengths used for standardization -
  1. Anthocyanins : 520 nm [21,24].
  2. Curcumin : 425 nm [30,86].
  3. Chlorophyll : 645 nm [55,119].
  4. Carotenoids : 450 nm [35,88].
  5. Betalains : 538 nm [27,39].

MICROENCAPSULATION OF EXTRACTS :-

  • Materials Required -
  • 10% gum acacia solution.
  • Maltodextrin solution.
  • Pigment extract.
  • Procedure -

IMG20260519101405.jpg

Fig.6 :- Gum Acacia Solution & Maltodextrin Solution.

First, 10 ml of pigment extract was taken in a suitable container.

Then, 10 ml of gum acacia solution & 5 ml of maltodextrin solution were added gradually [42,45].

The mixture was stirred well using a glass rod & homogenized at 1000–1500 rpm for 15 minutes to ensure uniform blending [93,94].

 

20260519_105804AMByGPSMapCamera.jpg 20260519_113423AMByGPSMapCamera.jpg 20260525_22643PMByGPSMapCamera.jpg

Fig.7 :- Homogenization Process.

 

After homogenization, the mixture was poured onto butter paper & dried in a hot air oven at 40°C [44].

Once completely dry, the material was scraped off, ground gently using a mortar & pestle, & collected as a fine encapsulated powder [46].

 

IMG20260520145932.jpg IMG20260520145942.jpg

Fig.8 :- Hot Air-Drying Process.

 

 

The final product was stored in an amber container to protect it from light & maintain stability [43,95].

IMG20260519135913.jpg

Fig.9 :- Transfer of Pigments Process.

FORMULATION OF HERBAL COLOUR CORRECTIVE COMPACT POWDER :-

  • Sieving –

All powder ingredients were first passed through a #80 sieve at least 3 times [47,48].

This helped ensure a smooth texture & a more uniform particle size [67].

IMG20260528104245.jpg

Fig.10 :- Sieving Process.

  • Mixing the base powders –

The base ingredients, including rice starch, kaolin clay, multani mitti & other powder components, were mixed thoroughly to form a uniform base [65,74].

20260525_22643PMByGPSMapCamera.jpg

Fig.11 :- Mixing of Base Ingredients.

  • Addition of encapsulated pigments –

The encapsulated pigment powders, such as butterfly pea, turmeric, beetroot, neem & carrot, were then added slowly to the base mixture [40,45].

They were incorporated little by little during mixing to ensure even distribution [69].

IMG20260526104219.jpg

Fig.12 :- Addition of Encapsulated Pigments.

  • Geometric mixing & Grinding –

The pigments were blended gradually with the base powders using a mortar & pestle [48,69].

This method helped achieve uniform colour distribution & prevented patchy areas in the final product [66].

 

The mixture was ground properly to break up any lumps & improve the overall smoothness of the powder [74,75].

20260525_103444AMByGPSMapCamera.jpg

Fig.13 :- Geometric Mixing & Grinding.

  • Final sieving –

The final blend was once again passed through a #100-120 sieve [47].

This step helped produce a smooth, uniform & lump-free powder [137].

The final product was a smooth herbal compact powder with good colour-corrective properties & better blending ability [7,81].

IMG20260526102007.jpg                Fig.14 :- Final Sieving.

FORMULATION OPTIMIZATION BATCHES :-

Procedure –

All the powders were first passed through sieve #80 to ensure a fine & uniform texture [47,48].

 

The base powders were then mixed thoroughly until well blended [67].

Next, the pigments were added slowly using the geometric dilution method so that they could disperse evenly throughout the mixture [69,101].

Fragrance was added at the final stage to give the formulation a pleasant scent [73].

The mixture was ground well using a mortar & pestle to remove any lumps & improve smoothness [74].

After that, the final blend was sieved once again to ensure consistency [137].

Finally, the finished compact powder was filled into the compact container [64,133].

 

Table no.1 :- Formulation Optimization Batches.

SR.NO

BATCH NO.

PURPLE PIGMENT

YELLOW PIGMENT

GREEN PIGMENT

ORANGE PIGMENT

PINK PIGMENT

BASE POWDER

1.

F1

0.20 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

9.40 g.

2.

F2

0.35 g.

0.15 g.

0.15 g.

0.15 g.

0.15 g.

9.05 g.

3.

F3

0.25 g.

0.15 g.

0.15 g.

0.15 g.

0.15 g.

9.15 g.

4.

F4

0.40 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

9.20 g.

5.

F5

0.20 g.

0.10 g.

0.30 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

9.20 g.

6.

F6

0.20 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

0.10 g.

0.30 g.
    1. .

 

RESULT & DISCUSSION :-

  1. Extraction of Natural Pigments –

 

Table no.2 :- Extraction of Natural Pigments.

HERBAL SOURCE

QUANTITY

SOLVENT USED

EXTRACTION CONDITIONS

EXTRACT OBTAINED

PURPOSE

Butterfly Pea (Clitoria ternatea).

20 g.

100 ml Ethanol + 20 ml Distilled Water + 1 ml HCl.

Macerated for 24 hrs, filtered & concentrated below 40°C.

50 ml.

Anthocyanin extraction.

Turmeric (Curcuma longa).

22 g.

30 ml Ethanol + 70 ml Acetone.

Macerated for 24 hrs, filtered & concentrated below 40°C.

50 ml.

Curcumin extraction.

Neem (Azadirachta indica).

20 g.

60 ml Ethanol + 120 ml Acetone.

Macerated for 24 hrs, filtered & concentrated below 40°C.

40 ml.

Chlorophyll extraction.

Carrot (Daucus carota).

20 g.

22–25 ml Ethanol + 42–45 ml Ethyl Acetate + Acetone.

Macerated for 24 hrs, filtered & concentrated below 40°C.

43 ml.

Carotenoid extraction.

Beetroot (Beta vulgaris).

22 g.

35 ml Ethanol + 35 ml Acetic Acid.

Macerated for 24 hrs, filtered & concentrated below 40°C.

40 ml.

Betalain extraction.

 

  1. Standardization of Extracted Pigments by UV–Visible Spectrophotometry –

 

WhatsApp Image 2026-06-02 at 10.33.03 PM (2).jpeg

Fig.15 :- Standardization of Anthocyanins.

 

Fig.16 :- Standardization of Curcumin.

 

Fig.17 :- Standardization of Chlorophyll.

WhatsApp Image 2026-06-02 at 10.33.03 PM.jpeg

Fig.18 :- Standardization of Carotenoids.

WhatsApp Image 2026-06-02 at 10.33.04 PM.jpeg

Fig.19 :- Standardization of Betalains.

 

Table no.3 :- Standardization of Extracted Pigments by UV–Visible Spectrophotometr

 

PIGMENT EXTRACT

MARKER COMPOUND

Λ MAX (NM)

OBSERVATION

Butterfly Pea Extract.

Anthocyanins.

520 nm.

Characteristic absorbance peak observed.

Turmeric Extract.

Curcumin.

425 nm.

Characteristic absorbance peak observed.

Neem Extract.

Chlorophyll.

645 nm.

Characteristic absorbance peak observed.

Carrot Extract.

Carotenoids.

450 nm.

Characteristic absorbance peak observed.

Beetroot Extract.

Betalains.

538 nm.

Characteristic absorbance peak observed.

 

  1. Micro-encapsulation Process –

 

Table no.4 :- Micro-encapsulation Process.

PARAMETER

 

DETAILS

Pigment Extract Used.

 

10 ml.

Gum Acacia Solution.

 

10 ml.

Maltodextrin Solution.

 

5 ml.

Homogenization Speed.

 

1000–1500 rpm.

Homogenization Time.

 

15 min.

Drying Temperature.

 

40°C.

Drying Method.

 

Hot Air Oven.

Final Product.

 

Fine Micro-encapsulated Pigment Powder.

Storage Condition.

 

Amber-coloured airtight container.

 

  1. Evaluation parameters –

 

Table no.5 :- Evaluation Parameters.

EVALUATION PARAMETERS

RESULT

DISCUSSION

Appearance.

Uniform & smooth.

Acceptable.

Colour.

Light beige/skin tone colour.

Aromatic fragrance due to sandalwood oil.

Odour.

Mildly pleasant.

Characteristic sandalwood fragrance.

Moisture Content.

MC =  2 –1.94 x 100

2

=   0.06 x 100

2

= 3%

Low moisture content means good stability & low chances of microbial contaminant.

Bulk Density.

BD = 10

19

= 0.52

The final value is 0.52 which means that the powder has good packing properties & uniformity.

Tapped Density.

TD = 10

15

= 0.66

The final value is 0.66 which means the powder has good packing properties & uniformity.

Carr’s Index.

CI = 0.66 – 0.52 x 100

0.66

= 0.14 x 100

0.66

= 0.21%

The final value was found to be 0.21% which means the powder showed good flow property.

Hausner’s Ratio.

HR = 0.66

0.52

= 1.26

The final value was found to be was found to be 1.26 that means that the powder showed good flow property.

Angle of Repose.

AR = tan-1 (2)

(4.0)

= tan-1 (0.5)

= 26.56°

The final value was found to be 26.56°  indicating free flowing powder.

Spreadability.

The formulation showed excellent spreading ability, spreading uniformly on the application surface without any lump formation, producing a smooth & consistent texture.

Easily spreadable & uniform on skin.

Oil Absorption Capacity.

OAC= 2.1 – 1 x 100

1

= 1.1 x 100

1

= 110%

The final value was found to be 110% indicating good sebum-binding ability & suitability for controlling excess skin oil .

Colour Uniformity.

Colour Uniformity was done on skin.

Uniform colour.

pH Responsiveness Test.

pH Responsiveness Test was done by using pH meter.
  • pH = 4 buffer (3.91 & Pink-red colour).
  • pH = 7 buffer (6.80 & Purple colour).

Skin Tone Adaptivity Study.

Skin Tone Adaptivity Study was done on human volunteers with different skin tone & different skin concerns.

Suitable for every skin tone.

Patch Test.

Patch Test was done on a human volunteer.

No irritation, redness or inflammation was observed.

Stability Testing.

Stability Testing was done at 25oC for 15-30 days & then at 38OC-42OC in closed cupboard for another 15-20 days.

Stable.
 

CONCLUSION

The present study successfully developed a herbal colour-corrective compact powder using natural pigments obtained from butterfly pea, turmeric, neem, carrot & beetroot. The formulation showed good cosmetic performance, with a smooth texture, pleasant appearance, satisfactory spreadability & suitable oil absorption capacity, making it practical for everyday use.

Micro-encapsulation played an important role in improving the stability, protection & handling of the pigments. By enclosing the natural colourants in a protective matrix, the formulation was better able to resist degradation caused by light & temperature, while also maintaining more uniform colour distribution throughout the powder.

The evaluation results showed that the compact powder was stable, non-irritant & effective in correcting visible skin concerns such as dullness, redness, uneven tone & dark spots. Its ability to blend well with the skin while still providing a natural finish suggests that it can meet both functional & aesthetic requirements in cosmetic use.Overall, the study indicates that herbal colour-corrective compact powder can serve as a safer, skin-friendly & environmentally preferable alternative to synthetic compact powders. It also highlights the potential of natural pigments in the development of innovative cosmetic products that combine beauty benefits with improved tolerability & stability.

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  146. Pavithra G, et al. Herbal cosmetic formulations: A review. Int J Pharm Sci Rev Res. 2018;52(1):45–50.

Ali A, Akhtar N. Natural ingredients in cosmetic science. Pak J Pharm Sci. 2015;28(5):1713–1718.

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  140. Jyothi NVN, et al. Micro-encapsulation in pharmaceutical industries. J Micro-encapsulation. 2010;27(3):187–197.
  141. Desai KGH, Park HJ. En-capsulation technologies for stability enhancement. Drying Technol. 2005;23(7):1361–1394.
  142. Draize JH. Dermal irritation & safety evaluation techniques. J Pharmacol Exp Ther. 1944;82:377–390.
  143. Indian Standard IS 6608. Skin Safety Evaluation Methods for Cosmetics. BIS; 2004.
  144. Mitsui T. New Cosmetic Science. Elsevier; 1997.
  145. Kumar S, et al. Herbal cosmetics & future perspectives. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20(11):3375–3384.
  146. Pavithra G, et al. Herbal cosmetic formulations: A review. Int J Pharm Sci Rev Res. 2018;52(1):45–50.
  147. Ali A, Akhtar N. Natural ingredients in cosmetic science. Pak J Pharm Sci. 2015;28(5):1713–1718.

Photo
Dr. Ashwini Chandane
Corresponding author

Associate Professor at Abhinav Education Society’s College of Pharmacy, Narhe, Pune

Photo
Shruti Ware
Co-author

Abhinav Education Society’s College of Pharmacy, Narhe, Pune

Photo
Ayush Badade
Co-author

Abhinav Education Society’s College of Pharmacy, Narhe, Pune

Dr. Ashwini Chandane, Shruti Ware, Ayush Badade, Development & Evaluation of Ph-Responsive, Skin-Adaptive Herbal Colour Corrective Powder Using Microencapsulated Natural Pigments, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2026, Vol 4, Issue 7, 3922-3938, https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.21453461

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