Formulation and Evaluation of Anti-Oxidant Herbal Face Cream by using Pomegranate Leaves Extract

In today’s world, there is a growing desire among individuals—regardless of age, gender, education, or profession—to maintain a youthful and attractive appearance. This aspiration has significantly increased the demand for cosmetic products. Within the cosmetic industry, the anti-aging segment represents one of the fastest-growing markets, driven by consumer interest in products and treatments that address the visible signs of aging. Modern consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the ingredients used in cosmetic formulations. Natural ingredients derived from plants, minerals, and other biological sources are perceived to be safer, healthier, and gentler on the skin compared to synthetic compounds. Consequently, the demand for natural and organic cosmetics has risen considerably. Against this backdrop, the present study focuses on the formulation of an anti-aging cream derived from herbal sources.  

Aging of the Skin and the Role of Herbal Cosmetics in Skin Aging

Oxidative stress plays a central role in the process of skin aging. It arises from an       imbalance between the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the body’s ability to neutralize them. These ROS are produced both endogenously, such as within mitochondria of   skin cells, and exogenously, due to factors like ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pollution, and smoking. Excessive ROS can damage cellular components—including proteins, lipids, and DNA—leading to inflammation, reduced collagen synthesis, and the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers. These structural proteins are essential for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. Over time, the cumulative damage from oxidative stress manifests as fine lines, wrinkles, and other visible signs of aging. The use of anti-aging skincare products containing antioxidants, combined with lifestyle modifications, can help minimize oxidative stress and support healthier, more youthful-looking skin. Herbal cosmetics are products formulated using various naturally derived ingredients that enhance skin health and appearance. These formulations harness the therapeutic properties of herbs to protect, nourish, and rejuvenate the skin, providing a safer and more sustainable alternative to synthetic cosmetic preparations.

Anti-Aging Herbal Cream

Creams are semisolid biphasic preparations that consist of two immiscible liquids, where one phase is dispersed as fine globules within the other. They are broadly classified into two categories: aqueous creams (oil-in-water emulsions) and oily creams (water-in-oil emulsions). To ensure stability and prevent microbial contamination, creams often include appropriate antimicrobial preservatives, unless the active components or the base materials possess inherent antibacterial and antifungal properties. Aqueous creams are particularly prone to bacterial and mold growth; therefore, the addition of preservatives is essential in their formulation. In the present study, an herbal anti-aging cream is proposed to be formulated using the peel extract of Punica granatum (commonly known as pomegranate) belonging to the Punicaceae family. Beeswax and almond oil will serve as the cream base, while sandalwood powder will be incorporated as a natural skin-brightening agent.

Literature survey

1. Masaki (2010): ROS cause skin aging; antioxidants prevent damage and maintain elasticity.
2. Kaur & Kapoor (2001): Pomegranate rich in polyphenols and vitamin C—strong antioxidants.
3. Jurenka (2008): Pomegranate leaves contain bioactive  compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.
4. Sharma et al. (2015): Pomegranate peel cream reduces UV induced collagen damage.
5. Kauretal.(2012): Polyherbal cream showed strong antioxidant and stability results.
6. Saxenaetal.(2019): Pomegranate peel cream effective; leaf extract remains unexplored.
7. Teenage acne vulgaris mainly impacts the facial areas. Arora et al. (2011) depicted a correlation between adolescent acne severity and increased sebum production and hormonal fluctuations.
8. Smoking habits are also correlated with the intensity of acne, as per Schäfer et al. (2011).
9. Additional factors include anxiety, types of food, study pressure, drug intake, and environmental conditions (McDowell et al., 2005, Naghdi and Ghane, 2017, Wei et al., 2010).
10. Herbal and fruit extracts were chosen to treat acne for their potential safety compared to allopathic drugs known for side effects (Ali et al., 2019).
11. For instance, Rahimian et al. (2013) tested ethanolic extracts of Azadirachta indica (neem), Ocimum sanctum (tulsi), and other herbs in disc diffusion assays to examine their inhibitory effects on Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, similar to the methodology of this study.
12. The essential oil of Rosmarinus officinalis was also assessed for its impact on P. acnes by (Rafieian-Kopaei et al., 2014), who noted significant antibacterial properties and morphological changes in the bacteria.
13. A comparable disc diffusion assay was conducted using ethanolic leaf extracts of Eucalyptus species by Alajeel et al. (2020), which reported strong inhibition zones against gram-positive acne-related bacteria by the current study.
14. Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) essential oil has been shown to possess both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activities, typically evaluated in vitro (Carson et al., 2006)
15. In contrast, liquorice root extract exhibited the least activity, resulting in smaller zones of inhibition. Additionally, turmeric extract ranked as the second most significant finding in the study (Abdulhadi et al., 2023).
16. The lemon extract had a notably weak inhibitory effect on acne strains. The finding is consistent with Khan and Hanee (2011), who highlighted the potential of pomegranate peel against acne strains.
17. Lemon juice has been shown to suppress bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis, which are isolated from acne sores (Chaudhari et al., 2016).
18. The bacterial species that cause acne vulgaris, Propionibacterium acnes, is highly susceptible to Citrus limon (Shinkafi and Ndanusa, 2013).
19. both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria have demonstrated resistance to the antibacterial effects of sweet lime juice (Hindi and Chabuck, 2013).
20. Butyric acid, which is detected in the ethanolic extract of Cassia fistula, helps in soothing skin ulcerations and in the mitigation of UV-induced skin damage (Keshari et al., 2019).
21. It has anti-microbial properties against the bacteria, i.e., Cutibacterium acnes (linked to acne vulgaris) (Keshari et al., 2020).
22. These biofilms are inhibited by butyric acid. The inhibition of biofilm formation prevents persistent skin infections and antibiotic resistance (Blaskovich et al., 2019).
23. In studies involving human skin fibroblasts, Amaltas (C. fistula) was found to have significant anti-aging effects, making it suitable for cosmetic products aimed at whitening and anti-aging (Limtrakul et al., 2016).
24. The extract of Daru Haldi demonstrated greater inhibition compared to the neem extract (Daud et al., 2013), ensuring that these two have the potential to be used against acne.
25. Emerald et al. (2016) found that naturally produced preservatives are preferred over chemical ones, and herbal facial creams often have shorter shelf lives than their chemically derived counterparts.
26. Hydroxymethyl furfural, detected in both pomegranate and tulsi, exhibits similar beneficial effects, helping to combat inflammation and oxidative stress (Niu et al., 2018, Türky?lmaz et al., 2023, National Center for Biotechnology Information, 2025).
27. It can be used either by itself or with topical retinoids and antibiotics to treat mild to moderate acne and can help prevent the development of resistant strains of Propionibacterium acnes in cases of severe acne (Takma and Korel, 2024).
28. Another phytocomponent detected in neem is mahmoodin, which is a tetranortriterpenoid, more specifically known as a 3,4-seco-ursane derivative, and was previously seen to have significant results against gram-negative and gram-positive organisms.
29. Acne vulgaris is a prevalent skin disease, affecting around 85% of the population and leading to various psychological consequences, including anxiety, depression, and in extreme cases, suicidal tendencies (Keshari et al., 2019).
30. The colonization and growth of P. acnes, but the exact ways in which P. acnes contributes to acne are not fully understood (Zhu et al., 2019). Antibiotics, like clindamycin and tetracycline, are frequently utilized to manage acne vulgaris,
31. Treatments with herb combination Dang Gui-Yi Mu can improve reproductive performance sows by prevent abortion through regulating T helper (Th)1/Th2 cells (Bi et al., 2021).
32. The high chlorogenic acid content in Eucommia ulmoides Oliv. (Clifford et al., 2017) was found to mitigate clinical-type endometritis caused by the co-stimulation of lipopolysaccharide and exotoxin from Streptococcus pyogenes by lowering the inflammatory response, uterine damage, and purulent exudate (Gao et al., 2021).
33. Olivil possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, mediating anti-inflammatory actions by inhibiting tumor necrosis factor (TNF)α, interleukin (IL)-1β, and other inflammatory mediators (Yamauchi et al., 2005).
34. Medicarpin is similar to 17β-estradiol and inhibits TNFα-induced upregulation of IL-6 (Tyagi et al., 2010), while glabridin induces proliferation of endometrial epithelial cells and reduces the occurrences of endometrial cancer (Su Wei Poh et al., 2015) and recurrent miscarriage (Pan et al., 2014).
35. Glabridin also reduces the release of inflammatory factors, such as IL-6 and IL-1β (Kang et al., 2005) by inhibiting nuclear factor-κB (NFκB) and the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway (C. Zhang et al., 2020).
36. The Process induces endothelial cell proliferation, chemotactic migration, and formation of vascular lumina, eventually leading to the functional maturation of neocapillaries, which represent the completion of angiogenesis (Gourvas et al., 2012).

Need of Work

1. Background Context:

Skin care products today increasingly use natural and herbal ingredients due to consumer preference for safer, biocompatible, and eco-friendly formulations.

Pomegranate (Punica granatum) is widely known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, primarily attributed to its rich polyphenolic and flavonoid content.

However, most research and cosmetic formulations have focused on pomegranate fruit, peel, or seed oil, while pomegranate leaves remain underexplored despite containing bioactive compounds such as tannins, phenols, and flavonoids with proven antioxidant and antimicrobial effects.

2. Identified Gap:

Limited studies have investigated topical formulations using pomegranate leaf extract, particularly in the form of face creams.

There is a lack of standardized formulation methods and data on stability, physicochemical characteristics, and skin compatibility of such creams.

The comparative efficacy of pomegranate leaf extract versus other plant-based antioxidants in cosmetic formulations also remains insufficiently explored.

3. Justification for the Study:

Exploring pomegranate leaf extract can add value to agricultural by-products, promoting sustainability and waste reduction.

Developing a face cream formulation could demonstrate the practical applicability of the extract in skincare, targeting oxidative stress, acne, and early signs of aging.

The study may contribute to scientific validation and standardization of herbal cosmetic formulations.

4. Expected Outcomes:

Development of a stable, effective, and consumer-acceptable herbal face cream containing pomegranate leaf extract.

Establishment of baseline data on the extract’s cosmetic potential, encouraging further pharmacological and dermatological research.

Chemical Constituents of Pomegranate (Punica granatum) Leaves

Pomegranate leaves are rich in various bioactive phytochemicals that contribute to their pharmacological and cosmetic properties. The key classes of active constituents and their representative compounds are as follows:

1. Flavonoids (Polyphenols) – Quercetin, Kaempferol, Luteolin

Function: These compounds exhibit strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. They effectively scavenge free radicals and help prevent collagen breakdown, thereby protecting the skin from premature aging.

2. Tannins / Ellagitannins – Punicalagin-like compounds, Hydrolyzable tannins

Function: Known for their potent antioxidant and astringent actions, tannins also possess antimicrobial properties that help in maintaining skin health and preventing infections.

3. Phenolic Acids – Gallic acid, Ellagic acid and their derivatives

Function: These acids demonstrate significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. They also contribute to skin brightening and protection against oxidative stress.

4. Anthocyanins – (Present in trace amounts depending on cultivar and season)

Function: Act as natural pigments with antioxidant benefits. Though more abundant in pomegranate fruits and flowers, small quantities may also occur in the leaves.

5. Terpenoids and Sterols – Minor triterpenes and plant sterols

Function: These compounds support anti-inflammatory activity and contribute to strengthening the skin’s natural barrier.

6. Alkaloids and Other Minor Constituents – (Trace amounts depending on plant source)

Function: Present in small concentrations, these compounds may contribute to the overall bioactivity of the extract through various mechanisms.

Extraction of Pomegranate for Face Cream Preparation

1. Collection and Preparation of Plant Material

Source: Fresh pomegranate (Punica granatum) fruits and leaves are collected from a reliable source.

Cleaning: The collected material is washed thoroughly with distilled water to remove dust and impurities.

Drying: The cleaned material (peel, seeds, or leaves—depending on desired extract) is shade-dried for 7–10 days to preserve active compounds.

Powdering: The dried material is finely powdered using a grinder and sieved to obtain uniform particle size.

2. Extraction Process

A. Solvent Extraction (Common Method)

Solvent Used: Ethanol, methanol, or hydro alcoholic mixture (ethanol: water, 70:30).

Procedure:

1. Take the powdered pomegranate material (e.g., 50 g).
2. Add solvent in a ratio of 1:5 (w/v).
3. Macerate for 48–72 hours with occasional shaking or stir on a magnetic stirrer.
4. Filter through muslin cloth followed by Whatman filter paper.
5. Concentrate the filtrate using a rotary evaporator or water bath at 40–50 °C.
6. Dry the extract and store it in an airtight container at 4 °C until use.

Ingredients

Method of Preparation

The cream is prepared by the emulsion method (oil-in-water type).

Step 1: Preparation of Extract

• Fresh or dried pomegranate parts (peel/leaves) are powdered.
• Extraction is done using ethanol or hydro alcoholic solvent through maceration or Soxhlet extraction.
• The extract is filtered and concentrated under reduced pressure to obtain a semi-solid mass.

Step 2: Preparation of Oil Phase

• Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, beeswax, and oil (coconut/almond/mineral) are melted together at 70–75°C.

Step 3: Preparation of Aqueous Phase

• Glycerin, methyl paraben, and distilled water are heated separately to 70–75°C until dissolved.

Step 4: Emulsification

• The aqueous phase is slowly added to the oil phase with continuous stirring until a uniform emulsion is formed.
• The mixture is stirred continuously while cooling to room temperature.

Step 5: Addition of Extract and Perfume

• The pomegranate extract is added with constant stirring.
• Perfume (optional) is added when the mixture reaches room temperature.
• The cream is stored in airtight containers.

Evaluation Parameter

1) Organoleptic Evaluation:

The physical characteristics of the formulated cream were assessed through visual inspection to analyze organoleptic properties such as color, odor, appearance, and homogeneity after storage.

2) Homogeneity:

The homogeneity of the prepared cream was evaluated by visual observation immediately after formulation. A small amount of the cream was placed between the thumb and index finger to assess its uniformity and consistency, determining whether the preparation was homogeneous or not.

3) Dye Test:

To determine the type of emulsion, the ruthenium red dye test was performed. A small quantity of cream was mixed with the dye, and a drop of the mixture was placed on a microscopic slide, covered with a cover slip, and examined under a microscope. If the dispersed globules appeared red with a colorless background, the formulation was identified as an oil-in-water (O/W) type cream. Conversely, if the background appeared red and the globules were colorless, it indicated a water-in-oil (W/O) type emulsion.