Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Hair Mask

Fig No.1:- Structure of Hair

Hair grows from the follicle, or root, underneath the skin. The hair is 'fed' by blood vessels at the base of the follicle, which give it the nourishment it needs to grow. Between starting to grow and falling out years later, each hair passes through four stages: anagen, catagen, telogen and exogen. Another stage kenogen, has been recently realised. Every hair is at a different stage of the growth cycle. Over time, the length of the anagen stage decreases. Therefore, the hair may become weaker and thinner after each cycle. That is why it is important to ensure diet rich in specific nutrients to maintain normal, healthy hair growth. If hairs enter the resting phase too early, excess shedding and noticeable thinning of the hair can occur.^[2]

Fig No.2 :- Stages of Hair Growth

1. 1. PROBLEM RELATED TO HAIR^[3]
   2. Dandruff :- It is mainly caused by the overgrowth of a yeast-like fungus called Malassezia on the scalp, leading to irritation and flaking.

Dry hair :- Dry hair is caused by insufficient moisture or natural oils in the hair shaft due to factors like environmental damage, excessive heat styling, or reduced sebum production.

Oily hair :- Oily hair is caused by overactive sebaceous glands producing excess sebum on the scalp, leading to greasy hair.

Frizzy hair :- Frizzy hair is caused by a lack of moisture in the hair cuticle, leading it to absorb humidity from the air and swell unevenly.

Grey hair :- Grey hair is caused by a reduction in melanin production in hair follicles, often due to aging, genetics, or oxidative stress.

1.2 Importance of Herbal Cosmetics and Their Demand in the Market

In the history of cosmetics, Egyptians were known to recognize the benefits of cosmetics in the early days. Earlier natural and herbal products were predominantly used to enhance skin tone, radiance, hair growth, fragrance, and various dermatological conditions.^[6] Later in the 19th century, the chemical formulation known as cosmetics became popularover time since it was proven to give the same effect as that of natural products for improving beauty and appearance.^[7] The Discovery of hydroxyl acids used against wrinkles marked the rapid expansion of the cosmeceutical industry. Raymond Reed, the founder of the United States Society of Cosmetic chemists coined the term cosmeceuticals. Albert M Kligman in 1970, used retinoic acid in a formulation to improve the appearance of skin damaged by ultraviolet (UV) radiation and wrinkles.^[8,9] Although the cosmetics improved the appearance, their extensive use leads to severe side effects such as endocrine disorders, cosmetic‑linked melanoma, stillbirths, birth defects, even severe lung diseases,^[10] which led to change over from chemicals to natural or herbal extracts.^[5] Considering these side effects, the cosmeceutical industries started working on a stable formulation containing natural and herbal extracts (ingredients) in place of chemicals that had mere side effects compared to cosmetics, hence herbal cosmeceuticals became a current trend again in the market.^[4] The zero or mere side effects from the herbal cosmeceuticals gained the trust of customers and hence boomed in the market.^[11] Now the herbal cosmeceuticals used are in more demand worldwide compared to synthetic cosmeceuticals.^[12]

1.3 Herbal Hair Mask

Herbal hair mask formulations are designed to cleanse, change the texture, change the colour, revitalize stressed hair, nourish hair, and give hair a healthy appearance are all considered hair cosmetics. Hair types vary from person to person and include dry hair, greasy hair, as well as normal hair. Nowadays, people don't have time to think about how they look problems relating to hair, such as split ends, dandruff, white hair, hair loss, etc. Hair issues are brought on by stress, infections of the scalp, hormone imbalances, inadequate consumption of vitamins, food, and minerals, and overuse of chemical shampoos. ^[13-14] Products that are used for cleaning, texture modification, color change, revitalizing stressed hair, nourishing hair, and giving hair a healthy appearance are referred to as hair care products. Dandruff is a significant and prevalent issue these days that is brought on by these products used in daily life. The main purposes of hair care formulas are to enhance the physical characteristics of the hair fiber, including its strength, and texture. The enhancement of sensory qualities like brightness, frizz reduction, and hair film development are the secondary purposes. ^[15] It has cultural and aesthetic value in addition to being crucial in protecting the scalp from the elements such the sun and cold. These days, maintaining a clean scalp and hair is one of the most important parts of one's personal life. The hair is the most important part of the body. We therefore created a hair mask, hair shampoo and hair serum formula, to take care of them. The advantages of the herbal hair mask's ingredients for Hair are well-known. Vitamin E, coconut oils are also included in the hair mask, hair serum and shampoo and are applied to the hair. These herbal hair products are made without the use of any chemicals. Since it only contains natural ingredients, it doesn't harm your hair. Hair is a sign of excellent health and a sensitive organ. We might use an herbal hair mask to help hydrate our hair. They are extremely beneficial for dry and damaged hair. Adopting a healthy lifestyle and selecting products containing these elements support the general health of hair. ^[16] Our scalp's health and the strength of our hair can both be enhanced by a hair mask. These hair products are made at home, are very beneficial, and have no side effects. Many materials can be used to create these products. These products are very beneficial for persons whose hair is severely damaged or extremely thin. Our personalities are more attractive when we have nice hair. Although there are many different types of masks available, many of them contain chemicals. Thus, we produced a product using herbs. The process of creating hair mask, shampoo and serum is very easy. Herbs are widely used as therapeutic agents due to their affordability, accessibility, and safety. The global market is seeing an increase in demand for herbal formulations. The main objective of our study was to fully resolve this difficulty. For hair care, we therefore developed a multifunctional herbal anti-dandruff, conditioning, and anti-hair fall mask. ^[17]

2. PLANT PROFILE OF INGREDIENT

2.1 Flax Seeds

Biological Source: Linum usitatissimum Linn.

 Family: Liliaceae.

 Kingdom: Plantae (Plants).

 Subkingdom: Trophobiont (Vascular Plant).

 Subdivision: Spermatophyta (Seed Plant).

 Division: Magnoliphyta.

 Class: Magnoliopsida (Dicotyledons).

 Subclass: Rosidae.

 Genus: Linum L.

 Species: Usitatissimum L.

Constituents

The flax seeds contain 35-45% oil which contain 9-10% of saturated fatty acids (palmitic and steric) about 20% monosaturated fatty acids (mainly oleic acid), and more than 70% alpha-linolenic acid fatty acid. The protein content in the seed of flax varies from 20-30.

Uses

Flax seeds is the power house of nutrients, vitamins and

healthy fats, all of which may help to:

Teart The Scalp

Prevent The Hair Loss

Promote Hair Growth^[18,19]

2.2 Aloe Vera

 Family: Asphodelaceae

 Biological Source: Aloe perryi

 Subfamily: Asphodelodeae

 Kingdom: Plantae

 Class: Liliopicida-Monocotyledons

 Order:Liliales

 Genus: Aloes

Constituent

The gel of Aloe vera contains polysaccharides like acemannan that provide moisturizing and healing effects. It is rich in vitamins A, C, E, and B-complex, along with enzymes such as amylase and lipase. Anthraquinones like aloin offer antimicrobial action, while saponins provide cleansing properties. It also contains lignin for better penetration, salicylic acid for anti-inflammatory effects, and minerals like calcium, magnesium, and zinc.

Uses

Aloe vera is most beneficial for our hair.

It helps to stop the hair fall.

It repairs dead skin cells on the scalp.

It gives shine to our hairs and it act as great conditioner and

leaves our hair all smooth and shiny.

It promotes the growth of hairs.

Aloe vera prevents itching on the scalp and reduces dandruff

and conditions our hair.^[20]

2.3 Hibiscus

Fig No.5:- Hibiscus

 Biological Source: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis

 Family: Malvaceae

 Kingdom: Plantae

 Division: Tracheophyte

 Class: Magnoliopisida

 Genus: Hibiscus L

 Species: Rosa Sinensis L

Constituents

The leaves and flowers of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis contain flavonoids and anthocyanins with strong antioxidant activity. It is rich in mucilage, which provides moisturizing and conditioning effects. Tannins offer astringent properties, while saponins aid in gentle cleansing. The plant also contains organic acids like citric and malic acid for pH balance, along with vitamins (C and A) and minerals such as calcium and iron that support scalp and hair health.

Uses

Promotes hair growth

Reduces hair fall

Prevents dandruff

Acts as a natural hair conditioner

Delays premature greying^[21]

2.4 Fenugreek Seeds

Fig No.6:-Fenugreek Seeds

Botanical Name: Triglmellafoenum-graecum

Family:Fabaceae

Kingdom: Plantae

Division: Magnoliophyta

Class: Mangnoliopsida

Family: Fabaceae

Genus: Trigonella

Species: Foenum-gracecum Linn

Constituents

Fenugreek seeds contain a rich variety of bioactive constituents, including alkaloids (trigonelline), steroidal saponins (diosgenin), flavonoids, and glycosides. They are also high in dietary fiber, proteins, and essential amino acids like lysine and tryptophan. The seeds contain vitamins such as vitamin A, B-complex, and C, along with minerals like iron, calcium, and phosphorus. Additionally, mucilage compounds contribute to their soothing and moisturizing properties, especially in hair and skin applications.

Uses

Promotes hair growth and strengthens hair

Reduces dandruff and conditions dry scalp

Helps control blood sugar levels

Aids digestion and relieves constipation

Lowers cholesterol levels^[22]

3. AIM AND OBJECTIVE

Aim:-Formulation and evaluation of herbal hair mask

Objective:- The objective of formulating and evaluating a herbal hair mask is to develop a safe, effective, and natural alternative to synthetic hair care products using plant-based ingredients. The formulation aims to promote hair growth, reduce dandruff, nourish the scalp, and improve hair texture and strength. Evaluation parameters include physical appearance, pH, consistency, spreadability, stability, and microbial safety. Additionally, the study assesses its effectiveness in conditioning, and enhancing overall hair health, ensuring the product is stable, user-friendly, and suitable for regular use without adverse effects.

4. MATERIALS AND METHOD

Fig No.7:-Chemicals

4.1 Extraction of Hibiscus Mucilage:

Flow Chart: Extraction of Mucilage from Hibiscus rosa-sinensis

Collection of fresh leaves & petals
↓
Washing with water (removal of dirt)
↓
Shade drying (10 days)
↓
Grinding to fine powder
↓
Soaking powder in water (10 g in 100 ml)
↓
Release of mucilage
↓
Filtration through muslin cloth
↓
Collection of filtrate (mucilage extract)

4.2 Preparation of Flaxseed Mucilage:

Added the flaxseeds to the water.

Boiled this water for around 10 min. and keep stirring to avoid flaxseeds from sticking to the                 base.

Let the gel cooled down.

Put the muslin cloth in a glass measuring cylinder to strain it.

4.3 Preparation of Fenugreek Mucilage:

Soak the fenugreek seeds in hot water.

Allow to soak for 3-4 hours or overnight.

Heat the soaked mixture gently for 5-10 minutes to enhance mucilage release.

Grind the soaked fenugreek seeds into a smooth paste.

Filter through muslin cloth to extract smooth mucilage, if a clearer gel is desired.

Table no.2:- List of Instrument used

Table no.3:- List of apparatus used

                Table no.4:- Composition of batchs

4.4 Formulation Method of Herbal hair mask

Step 1: Preparation of Gel Base ^[24]

Take a required quantity of distilled water in a clean beaker.

Add Carbopol 940 (0.5–1%) slowly with continuous stirring using a glass rod to avoid lump formation.

Allow it to hydrate for 1–2 hours until a uniform dispersion is obtained.

Step 2: Addition of Humectant and Preservative ^[23]

Add glycerin (5–10%) to the hydrated Carbopol dispersion and mix thoroughly.

Dissolve sodium benzoate (0.2–0.5%) in a small amount of distilled water and add to the mixture with continuous stirring.

Step 3: Incorporation of Herbal Mucilage ^[23]           

Add the following gels one by one with continuous stirring:                   

Flaxseed mucilage

Fenugreek seed mucilage

Aloe vera gel

Hibiscus mucilage

Mix using a homogenizer to obtain a smooth and uniform consistency.

Fig No.8:- Homogenizer

Step 4: Neutralization and Gel Formation ^[23]

Add Triethanolamine (TEA) dropwise while stirring.

Continue until the formulation thickens and forms a clear gel.

Adjust pH to 5.5–6.5 using a pH meter.

Step 5: Final Mixing

Stir the formulation continuously to ensure uniform distribution of all ingredients.

Remove any entrapped air by allowing the gel to stand undisturbed.

Step 6: Filling and Storage 

Transfer the prepared gel into clean, airtight containers.

Store at room temperature away from direct sunlight.

5. EVALUATION PARAMETERS

5.1 Organoleptic Properties

In this test, the hair mask was observed for colour, odour, texture, etc.

Colour: Reddish

Odour: Pleasant, characteristic lavender odour

Apperance:Gel

5.2 pH test

The pH of the herbal hair mask formulations was measured using a calibrated digital pH meter. A 1% aqueous solution of each formulation was prepared using distilled water, and the pH was recorded at room temperature. The pH values were found within the range of 5.5–6.5, which is suitable for scalp application and helps maintain the natural balance of hair and scalp.

Fig No.9:-pH Meter

5.3 Spreadability Test

The Spreadability was expressed in terms of time in seconds taken by two glass plates to slip off from the formulation, placed in between the plates, under certain load lesser the time taken for separation of the two glass plates better the Spreadability. Two sets of glass plates of standard dimension were taken. Then one plates of suitable dimension was taken and the formulation was placed on that plate. Then other plate was placed on the top of the formulation. Then a weigh of 20g was placed on the upper plate so that the formulation between the two plates was pressed uniformly to form a thin layer.

Fig No.10:- Spreadability Test

5.4 Stability Studies

The formulation was stored for some time under different temperatures (35°c to 40°c) and humidity conditions and the change in the physical properties was not observed.

Table No.5:-Stability studies

5.5 Skin irritation test

Mark the area (1cm) on left hand surface, then the mask was applied to the area and the time was noted. This is checked for irritancy, erema if any for an interval up to 24 hr and reported.

Fig No.11:- Skin irritation test

5.6 Comparative Study of Formulation Batches

A comparative evaluation of all formulation batches (F1–F5) was carried out to identify the optimized herbal hair mask formulation. Variations in the concentration of flaxseed mucilage, fenugreek mucilage, aloe vera gel, and hibiscus mucilage influenced the physicochemical characteristics of the formulations.

F1 showed good stability and acceptable performance but comparatively lower spreadability and consistency than F2. F3 demonstrated very good texture and overall performance; however, its spreadability and acceptability were slightly lower than F2. F4 exhibited a thicker consistency and moderate spreadability, which affected ease of application and overall acceptability. F5 showed satisfactory stability and performance but did not match the uniform texture and ideal consistency observed in F2.Among all batches, F2 demonstrated the most balanced formulation with excellent spreadability, smooth and uniform texture, ideal pH, superior stability, pleasant odor, and better washability. Therefore, F2 was selected as the optimized formulation for the herbal hair mask preparation.