We use cookies to ensure our website works properly and to personalise your experience. Cookies policy
Seth Govind Raghunath Sable College of Pharmacy, Saswad, Pune
Mushrooms are macrofungal widely recognized for their nutritional, medicinal, and therapeutic properties. In recent years, edible and medicinal mushrooms have attracted significant attention in the cosmetic and cosmeceutical industries due to their rich content of bioactive compounds such as polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, terpenoids, peptides, vitamins, and antioxidants. These bioactive constituents exhibit several dermatological benefits including anti-aging activity, antioxidant protection, skin brightening, hydration, anti-inflammatory effects, and antimicrobial properties. Various edible species such as Agaricus bisporus, Pleurotus ostreatus, Lentinula edodes, and Morchella esculenta, along with medicinal mushrooms like Ganoderma lucidum, Hericium erinaceous, Inonotus obliquus, and Trametes versicolor, have demonstrated promising potential in skincare formulations. The presence of compounds such as beta-glucans, ergothioneine, kojic acid, and polyphenols contributes to improved skin health by protecting against oxidative stress, enhancing moisture retention, and regulating pigmentation. In addition, mushroom extracts have been incorporated into various cosmetic products including creams, serums, lotions, masks, and hair care formulations. This review highlights the chemical constituents, identification methods, and cosmeceutical applications of important edible and medicinal mushrooms. Furthermore, it discusses the advantages and limitations of mushroom-based ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Overall, mushrooms represent a sustainable and natural source of functional ingredients for the development of effective cosmeceutical products.
Mushrooms are macrofungi that have been consumed for centuries as both food and traditional medicine due to their rich nutritional value and therapeutic properties. They contain a wide range of bioactive compounds such as polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, terpenoids, peptides, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that contribute to various biological activities. In recent years, mushrooms have gained increasing attention in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries because of their potential to improve skin health and protect against environmental damage. The growing consumer demand for natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients has further promoted the use of mushroom-derived compounds in cosmeceutical formulations.
Several edible and medicinal mushroom species have been investigated for their dermatological benefits. Edible mushrooms such as Agaricus bisporus (button mushroom), Pleurotus ostreatus (oyster mushroom), Lentinula edodes (shiitake mushroom), and Morchella esculenta (morel mushroom) are rich sources of antioxidants, vitamins, and bioactive metabolites that contribute to skin hydration, anti-aging effects, and protection against oxidative stress. Medicinal mushrooms including Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi), Hericium erinaceus (Lion’s Mane), Inonotus obliquus (Chaga), and Trametes versicolor (Turkey Tail) have been reported to possess immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Previous studies have shown that compounds such as beta-glucans, ergothioneine, kojic acid, and polyphenols present in mushrooms can enhance skin barrier function, reduce pigmentation, and support collagen synthesis. As a result, mushroom extracts are increasingly incorporated into cosmetic products such as creams, serums, lotions, face masks, and hair care formulations.
Despite the growing interest in mushroom-based cosmetic ingredients, there is still a need to compile and evaluate available information regarding their chemical constituents, identification methods, and applications in cosmeceuticals. A comprehensive understanding of these aspects is essential for the development of safe, effective, and sustainable cosmetic products derived from natural sources.
The primary objective of this review is to provide an overview of edible and medicinal mushrooms with potential cosmeceutical applications. The study aims to summarize their major bioactive compounds, discuss their identification techniques, and highlight their benefits in skincare and cosmetic formulations. Additionally, the review evaluates the advantages and limitations of mushroom-derived ingredients in modern cosmeceutical development.
Classification of Mushrooms
Edible Mushrooms
Edible mushrooms (EMs) are the fruiting bodies of certain species of fungi that are safe for human consumption and are valued for their nutritional content, Flavors, and health-promoting properties. They are rich in proteins, vitamins, minerals, dietary Fiber, and bioactive compounds, which contribute to their use as both food and functional ingredients in medicine and nutrition Out of more than 14,000 known mushroom species, around 700 species are considered edible, and several of them are cultivated commercially worldwide. Edible mushrooms are highly nutritious foods with significant medicinal value. They contain proteins, vitamins, minerals, and several bioactive compounds that provide numerous health benefits, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticancer, and antidiabetic activities. Due to their nutritional richness and therapeutic potential, edible mushrooms are considered an important functional food and sustainable resource for future nutrition and healthcare(1).
The edible mushroom Agaricus bisporus is an important fungal species that acts as a secondary decomposer in nature. It plays a significant role in the breakdown of organic matter in environments rich in humus, such as temperate forest soils and pastures. These environments contain large amounts of decomposed plant material, and fungi like Agaricus bisporus help recycle nutrients by degrading complex organic compounds. Because of this ability, A. bisporus is considered a valuable model organism for studying fungal adaptation, growth, and persistence in humic-rich ecosystems.
The edible mushroom Agaricus bisporus belongs to the Agaricaceae family and is one of the most widely cultivated mushrooms in the world. It is grown commercially in more than 70 countries. By the early 1990s, global production of this mushroom had reached approximately 1.5 million tons, highlighting its economic and nutritional importance. The first documented information about its commercial cultivation was reported in 1707 by the French botanist Joseph Pitton de Tournefort . Later, the French agriculturist Olivier de Serres observed that transferring mushroom mycelium to a fresh substrate could increase the production of fruiting bodies(2).
Chemical Constituent’s
The edible mushroom Agaricus bisporus contains a variety of chemical constituents that contribute to its nutritional and medicinal value. It is rich in carbohydrates (about 41.6%) and proteins (about 39.84%), making it an important dietary food source. It also contains crude fiber (8.6%), ash (8.23%), and a small amount of fat (1.73%).
In addition to these nutrients, Agaricus bisporus contains several important bioactive compounds, including flavonoids, phenolic compounds, free amino acids, saponins, alkaloids, and tannins. These compounds are responsible for many biological activities such as antioxidant and antimicrobial effects. The mushroom also contains vitamin C, which helps in protecting the body from oxidative stress caused by free radicals.
Furthermore, Agaricus bisporus is a good source of essential minerals such as potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, and calcium. Because of these chemical constituents, this mushroom is considered a valuable nutritious food and potential medicinal resource(3).
Identification Test
Physical Identification (Morphological Characteristics)
The mushroom Agaricus bisporus can be identified based on its distinct physical characteristics. It typically has a smooth, round cap that may appear creamy white or brown, depending on the variety and stage of growth. The cap gradually expands as the mushroom matures. Under the cap, the gills are initially pink in young mushrooms but gradually turn dark brown as the spores mature. The stalk (stipe) is cylindrical, firm, and centrally attached to the cap. Another important identification feature is the spore print, which is dark brown, a characteristic typical of this species.
Molecular Identification (DNA Barcoding)
Modern identification methods use molecular techniques to ensure species authenticity. DNA barcoding, particularly sequencing of the Internal Transcribed Spacer (ITS) region, is widely used for confirming the identity of Agaricus bisporus. In this process, fungal DNA is extracted and the ITS region is amplified using polymerase chain reaction (PCR). The resulting DNA sequence acts as a unique molecular barcode, helping distinguish the species from other mushrooms and preventing contamination with toxic or unrelated species.
Chromatographic Standardization
To ensure quality and consistency, High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) is used for chemical standardization. This technique helps quantify important bioactive compounds such as ergothioneine, a strong antioxidant present in the mushroom. Measuring these compounds ensures batch-to-batch consistency, especially when the mushroom is used in pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, or cosmeceutical products(4)
Cosmetic uses of Agaricus bisporus (Button mushroom)
Skin aging is a multifaceted process driven by intrinsic factors like genetics and hormonal shifts, which progressively diminish skin elasticity, hydration, and structural integrity, and extrinsic influences, primarily UV radiation. UV exposure generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) and reactive nitrogen species (RNS), activating transcription factors such as activator protein-1 (AP-1). This upregulates matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes that degrade vital collagen and elastin Fibers, resulting in wrinkles, loss of firmness, and reduced tensile strength. Additionally, ROS/RNS promote chronic inflammation by boosting inflammatory mediators and enzymes including collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase, exacerbating damage and hyperpigmentation.
Natural ingredients in cosmeceuticals are gaining traction for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and enzyme-inhibiting prowess. Mushrooms stand out due to their rich bioactive profiles. Agaricus bisporus (white button mushroom) is packed with phenolic acids and ergosterol, which neutralize oxidative stress, inhibit MMPs and tyrosinase, safeguard collagen/elastin, improve hydration, and mitigate pigmentation—ideal for anti-aging creams and serums. Lentinula edodes (shiitake) offers l-ergothioneine and lentinan, delivering potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects alongside UV protection and collagen synthesis enhancement. Pleurotus ostreatus (oyster mushroom) provides polysaccharides, proteins, vitamins, and minerals for superior moisturizing, antimicrobial defense, and immunomodulation, promoting plump, resilient skin.
Ethanolic extracts of these mushrooms are increasingly incorporated into cosmetic formulations like creams, serums, and masks. These multifunctional products deliver antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and anti-tyrosinase benefits, yielding measurable improvements in hydration, firmness, brightness, and overall youthful vitality(5).
Agaricus bisporus represents the mature stage of one of the most widely cultivated edible fungi, progressing from button to cremini and finally to the portobello stage with large, flat caps and exposed gills. This maturation enhances its bioactive composition, making it valuable in cosmeceutical applications.Portobello mushrooms are rich in ergosterol, which converts to vitamin D? upon UV exposure, supporting skin repair and immunity. They also contain phenolic acids such as p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, and cinnamic acids, which provide strong antioxidant and antimicrobial activity. These compounds help neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS), inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), and prevent collagen degradation, thereby reducing wrinkles and improving skin firmness.
Additionally, polysaccharides and B vitamins enhance hydration, support barrier function, and promote healthy skin metabolism, making portobello extracts effective in anti-aging skincare formulations(6).
Chemical constituents
Ergosterol, a sterol abundant in fungi like Agaricus bisporus, serves as a precursor to vitamin D2 upon UV exposure, supporting bone health, immune modulation, and skin cell regulation in anti-aging formulations. Phenolic acids, including p-hydroxybenzoic and protocatechuic acids found in mushrooms, act as potent antioxidants, scavenging ROS to prevent collagen breakdown and inflammation, enhancing skin firmness and hydration. Cinnamic acid bolsters these effects with additional antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, inhibiting tyrosinase to reduce hyperpigmentation while protecting against bacterial degradation in topical products.
Polysaccharides from Pleurotus ostreatus form a moisturizing matrix, boosting skin barrier function, immunomodulation, and wound healing for plumper, resilient complexion. B vitamins, particularly riboflavin (B2) and niacin (B3) in Agaricus bisporus (including portobello variants), drive energy metabolism in skin cells, promote ceramide production for barrier integrity, and mitigate UV-induced damage, contributing to even tone and vitality.Integrating these compounds via ethanolic mushroom extracts into creams and serums yields synergistic benefits: ergosterol and phenolics neutralize oxidative stress, cinnamic acid fights microbes and pigmentation, polysaccharides hydrate deeply, and B vitamins energize repair. This natural arsenal counters intrinsic genetic aging and extrinsic UV assault, preserving collagen/elastin, reducing wrinkles, and fostering youthful radiance(7).
Identification Test
Identifying Agaricus bisporus, commonly known as the portobello mushroom in its mature form, involves a systematic, multi-tiered approach combining macroscopic (morphological), microscopic, and molecular techniques to ensure precise species verification, crucial for sourcing high-quality material for anti-aging cosmeceuticals rich in ergosterol, phenolics, and polysaccharides. Macroscopic examination serves as the initial, accessible step, focusing on the fruiting body's external and structural traits: the cap (pileus) is large, broad, and distinctly flat with a rich brown hue, typically spanning 10–15 cm in diameter; the gills (lamellae) display dark brown to chocolate coloration, remaining free from attachment to the stipe; the stipe (stem) appears thick, cylindrical, white to light brown, and features a prominent ring (annulus) remnant of the partial veil; the overall texture feels fleshy and firm, evoking a robust quality; and a spore print, obtained by placing the cap gills-down on paper for several hours, yields a dark brown deposit. These features collectively distinguish portobello from potentially toxic wild mimics, safeguarding extraction processes for skincare actives that combat ROS-induced collagen degradation.
Microscopic identification builds on this foundation for cellular-level confirmation, involving free-hand thin sections from gills or cap tissue mounted on slides and examined under a compound light microscope or scanning electron microscope (SEM). Key observations include club-shaped basidia, the spore-bearing cells clustered on gill surfaces; smooth, elliptical, brown-pigmented basidiospores measuring about 6–8 µm long; and septate hyphae, the branched filamentous structures forming the mycelial framework with visible cross-walls (septa). These intricate details affirm the basidiomycete fungal identity, correlating structure with bioactive potency like B vitamins and cinnamic acid for skin barrier enhancement and antimicrobial protection in creams and serums.
For ultimate accuracy, especially in commercial cosmeceutical production, molecular identification employs DNA analysis: fresh or dried tissue undergoes DNA extraction using kits targeting fungal polysaccharides, This was followed by amplification of the internal transcribed spacer (ITS) region using polymerase chain reaction (PCR), a highly variable segment of ribosomal DNA that is well suited for species identification.The resulting amplicon is sequenced and queried via the Basic Local Alignment Search Tool (BLAST) against the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI) GenBank database, yielding matches exceeding 99% identity to Agaricus bisporus reference sequences. This gold-standard method mitigates misidentification risks amid morphological variability due to growth conditions, ensuring extracts deliver consistent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase benefits to counter intrinsic hormonal aging and extrinsic UV damage, preserving elastin, boosting hydration, and promoting radiant, firm skin(8).
Cosmetic uses of Portobello mushrooms (Agaricus bisporus)
Agaricus bisporus is widely recognized for its rich composition of antioxidants such as ergosterol, phenolic acids (p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, gallic), cinnamic acid, polysaccharides, and B vitamins. These bioactive compounds contribute to its strong anti-aging potential in cosmeceutical formulations by neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS), reducing inflammation, and protecting skin structure.
In anti-aging creams, portobello extracts inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and tyrosinase, thereby preserving collagen and elastin while reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. The presence of polysaccharides enhances hydration, while ergosterol conversion to vitamin D? supports skin repair and regeneration.Serums formulated with portobello extracts improve skin radiance by evening out complexion, fading dark spots, and strengthening the skin barrier. Moisturizing lotions provide long-lasting hydration and protect against environmental stressors, maintaining soft and supple skin. Additionally, cleansing masks containing these extracts help detoxify the skin, remove impurities, and nourish it with essential B vitamins.
Overall, its multifunctional properties and sustainable cultivation make it an excellent natural ingredient for eco-friendly, effective skincare products(9).
Pleurotus ostreatus is the second most widely cultivated edible mushroom after Agaricus bisporus. It grows efficiently at 10–30°C and pH 6–8 on agricultural wastes such as straw, corn cobs, and sawdust, making it an eco-friendly and sustainable food source. Nutritionally, it is rich in proteins, essential amino acids, vitamins, minerals, fiber, and unsaturated fats, while being low in calories. It also exhibits antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory activities. In cosmetics, its polysaccharides provide deep hydration, improve skin elasticity, and soothe irritation. When combined with Agaricus bisporus extracts, it enhances anti-aging effects by reducing wrinkles, improving skin tone, and promoting a healthy, youthful appearance.(10)
Chemical constituents
Oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus) boast a rich profile of bioactive compounds that enhance their value in nutrition, medicine, and skincare, complementing Agaricus bisporus (portobello) for potent anti-aging cosmeceuticals. Primary metabolites like proteins, carbohydrates, dietary fiber, vitamins, and minerals provide essential nourishment, while secondary metabolites—phenolic compounds, flavonoids, alkaloids, tannins, saponins, terpenoids, glycosides, anthocyanins, and betacyanins—drive antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects by neutralizing ROS, inhibiting free radicals, and soothing oxidative stress linked to wrinkles, collagen loss, and UV damage.
Phenolics and flavonoids, abundant in chloroform and aqueous extracts, scavenge ROS to protect elastin, reduce inflammation, and fade pigmentation via tyrosinase inhibition, yielding brighter, firmer skin. Alkaloids and saponins bolster antimicrobial defence against acne bacteria, while tannins amplify antioxidant power for resilient barrier function. Terpenoids and glycosides add anti-inflammatory benefits, calming redness and promoting repair.
Ethanolic, methanolic, or hexane extracts vary in potency—chloroform often maximizes flavonoids/phenolics—enabling tailored serums, creams, lotions, and masks. Paired with portobello's ergosterol and B vitamins, oyster's polysaccharides hydrate deeply, creating synergistic, eco-friendly formulations that plump, even tone, boost glow, and combat intrinsic hormonal aging plus extrinsic aggressors for youthful, nourished skin(11).
Identification test
Pleurotus ostreatus contains a wide range of bioactive pigments and phytochemicals that can be analyzed using advanced spectroscopic, microscopic, and chromatographic techniques to evaluate their cosmeceutical potential. Spectroscopic analysis begins with drying and powdering of fruiting bodies, followed by extraction using solvents such as methanol, ethanol, or water. UV–Visible spectroscopy (200–800 nm) reveals characteristic absorption peaks of melanin (280–300 nm) and phenolic compounds (250–370 nm), indicating strong antioxidant capacity. Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy further identifies functional groups such as hydroxyl (O–H), carbonyl (C=O), and aromatic (C=C), confirming the presence of polysaccharides, phenolics, and glycosides responsible for free radical scavenging and enzyme inhibition.
Electron microscopy, including Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM), provides detailed structural insights. SEM reveals surface morphology such as hyphal networks and spore structures, while TEM shows intracellular components like melanin granules and polysaccharide vesicles. These features correlate with hydration, barrier protection, and antimicrobial properties.
High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) enables precise separation and quantification of compounds such as gallic acid, protocatechuic acid, and flavonoids. This technique ensures accurate profiling and standardization of antioxidant constituents for formulation use.Overall, these analytical methods confirm that Pleurotus ostreatus possesses strong antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, hydrating, and anti-inflammatory properties, supporting its application in sustainable anti-aging skincare products for improved skin health, elasticity, and radiance(12).
Cosmetic uses of Oyster Mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus)
Pleurotus ostreatus has gained significant attention in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications due to its rich content of bioactive compounds such as phenolics, flavonoids, and ergosterol. One of its key benefits is strong anti-tyrosinase activity, which helps reduce melanin synthesis, thereby improving hyperpigmentation and promoting an even skin tone.
Its antioxidant properties neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS), protecting the skin from UV-induced damage and preventing collagen degradation, which reduces wrinkles and maintains skin firmness. Additionally, polysaccharides present in the mushroom enhance hydration and improve skin elasticity.Pleurotus ostreatus also exhibits antibacterial activity against organisms like Staphylococcus aureus, making it effective in acne control and skin protection. Overall, it serves as a multifunctional natural ingredient in eco-friendly skincare formulations for brighter, smoother, and healthier skin(13).
Morchella esculenta is an edible, honeycomb-shaped fungus belonging to the Morchellaceae family, commonly found in forests during spring. It is nutritionally rich in proteins, vitamins, minerals, and healthy fats. Morels also contain bioactive compounds such as phenolics, polysaccharides, and vitamin E, which provide strong antioxidant and anti-aging benefits. These compounds help neutralize free radicals, protect collagen from UV damage, and improve skin hydration and elasticity.In cosmetic applications, morel extracts are used in creams, serums, and masks to reduce wrinkles, enhance skin tone, and promote a healthy glow, supporting natural and eco-friendly skincare formulations(14).
Chemical constituents
Morchella esculenta is valued for its rich profile of bioactive compounds, making it a promising ingredient in anti-aging cosmeceuticals. It contains polysaccharides composed of sugars such as mannose, galactose, and glucose, which enhance skin hydration, improve elasticity, and support barrier function. Proteins and amino acids contribute to collagen synthesis, promoting firmness and reducing signs of aging.
Phenolic compounds, including p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, and p-coumaric acids, provide strong antioxidant activity by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS), thereby inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and tyrosinase. This helps reduce wrinkles, prevent collagen degradation, and improve skin tone. Additionally, organic acids such as citric, malic, and fumaric acids contribute to antimicrobial activity and maintain pH balance. Tocopherols (vitamin E) and carotenoids like beta-carotene protect cell membranes from oxidative damage, while fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic acids nourish and soothe the skin.Other constituents, including flavonoids, terpenoids, and minerals, further enhance its anti-inflammatory and protective effects, making it suitable for natural skincare formulations aimed at improving skin health and radiance.
Identification test
Identifying morel mushrooms (Morchella esculenta) combines hands-on morphological checks with precise molecular techniques, ensuring accurate sourcing for potent anti-aging cosmeceuticals alongside portobello and oyster mushrooms. Collection starts in natural habitats like moist forest soils or farms, where fresh samples undergo sterilization: cut stipe pieces (1–3 cm²) wash in distilled water, dip in 75% ethanol (30 seconds), rinse repeatedly in sterile water, pat dry with filter paper, then plate on nutrient media (PDA or MEA) in Petri dishes. Incubate at 25°C for 7–14 days to grow white, cottony mycelium, subculture for purity, confirming macroscopic traits—honeycomb pitted cap, hollow stipe—before extract prep rich in phenolics, polysaccharides, and beta-carotene.
Molecular identification elevates accuracy: extract genomic DNA from pure mycelium via fungal kits (CTAB or commercial), amplify barcoding genes—ITS (universal fungal ID), RPB1/RPB2 (multi-locus precision), EF1-α (phylogenetic depth)—using primers like ITS1/ITS4 via PCR (95°C denaturation, 55°C annealing, 72°C extension; 35 cycles). Purify amplicons, sequence bidirectionally (Sanger), and analyze in MEGA: align with ClustalW, detect SNPs/indels, build phylogenetic trees via Maximum Likelihood under Kimura 2-parameter model (1000 bootstraps). Monophyletic clustering with >99% NCBI BLAST identity to M. esculenta references confirms species, distinguishing yellow morels (esculenta clade) from black (elata) or others amid cryptic diversity.
This dual approach safeguards bioactive integrity: morphological scouting spots prime specimens, lab culturing scales extracts, DNA verifies purity for ROS-scavenging phenolics that inhibit MMPs/tyrosinase, polysaccharides hydrating like oyster's, linoleic acid soothing inflammation. Reliable ID fuels sustainable serums, creams, masks—morel firms and glows, portobello protects collagen, oyster moisturizes—for wrinkle reduction, even tone, and resilient youth against UV/hormonal aging(16).
Cosmetic uses of Moral Mushroom’s
Morchella esculenta offers significant potential in skincare due to its rich composition of bioactive compounds, making it a valuable ingredient in anti-aging cosmeceuticals. It works synergistically with Agaricus bisporus and Pleurotus ostreatus to enhance overall skin health and appearance.Morel mushrooms are abundant in antioxidants such as beta-carotene, linoleic acid, phenolic acids (p-hydroxybenzoic and protocatechuic acids), and tocopherols. These compounds effectively neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS), inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), and protect collagen and elastin from degradation. As a result, they help reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and skin sagging, promoting a firmer and youthful complexion.
Their anti-inflammatory properties play a crucial role in soothing irritated skin by reducing redness, swelling, and inflammatory skin conditions such as acne and eczema. Morel extracts also support skin barrier repair and enhance resilience by regulating inflammatory mediators.Additionally, polysaccharides present in morels act as natural humectants, retaining moisture and improving skin hydration, elasticity, and smoothness. Their antimicrobial activity against pathogens like Staphylococcus aureus further supports acne management by preventing bacterial growth and maintaining skin balance.
Furthermore, essential nutrients such as B-complex vitamins, zinc, and copper promote collagen synthesis, tissue repair, and antioxidant defense. Overall, morel mushrooms contribute to brighter, healthier, and well-protected skin, making them ideal for natural and sustainable cosmetic formulations(15).
Lentinula edodes is a widely cultivated edible fungus known for its nutritional and medicinal value. It contains proteins, dietary fiber, B vitamins (riboflavin and niacin), essential minerals like potassium and zinc, and bioactive compounds such as lentinan and phenolics. As a white-rot fungus, it can degrade lignocellulosic materials, making its cultivation sustainable and environmentally friendly.In cosmeceutical applications, shiitake demonstrates strong anti-aging properties due to its antioxidant profile. It is rich in L-ergothioneine, a sulfur-containing antioxidant that neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS), protects skin cells from oxidative stress, and inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), thereby preventing collagen breakdown and reducing wrinkles.
Lentinan contributes anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effects by reducing cytokines like IL-6 and TNF-α, helping to soothe irritation and improve skin healing. Additionally, shiitake contains phenolic compounds with tyrosinase-inhibiting activity, which helps reduce hyperpigmentation and promote an even skin tone.It also exhibits antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, supporting acne management. Overall, shiitake extracts are effective in enhancing hydration, improving elasticity, and promoting healthy, radiant skin in natural cosmetic formulations(17).
Chemical constituents
Shiitake mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) stand out as a nutritional powerhouse and functional food, prized for their diverse bioactive compounds that extend beyond culinary use into medicinal, nutraceutical, and cosmetic realms. Their chemical makeup features polysaccharides like β-glucans, which dominate research for their immunomodulatory, antitumor, antioxidant, and antiviral effects; these soluble fibres bolster immune response and cellular protection in both fruiting bodies and mycelium.
Proteins comprise 26–30% of dry weight, delivering essential amino acids that aid nutrition, enzymatic functions, and therapeutic potential, while fatty acids—saturated and unsaturated, including anti-inflammatory linoleic acid—support cardiovascular health. Sterols such as ergosterol serve as vitamin D2 precursors with cholesterol-lowering and antioxidant roles, complementing the free radical-scavenging phenolics that shield against oxidative stress and aging.
Purines like adenine, guanine, and hypoxanthine fuel metabolism and nucleic acid production, alongside secondary metabolites such as terpenoids, lentinan derivatives, and other small molecules exhibiting antiviral, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Recent findings affirm potent antioxidants in both fruiting bodies and mycelium.
This synergistic profile positions shiitake as a versatile superfood, fuelling applications from immune-boosting supplements to skin-brightening cosmetics, as their compounds neutralize ROS, enhance hydration, inhibit melanin, and soothe inflammation—making them ideal for anti-aging formulations previously discussed(18).
Identification test
Morphological identification focuses on the fruiting body. The cap measures 4.5–25 cm, initially hemispherical, later becoming convex to flat with a reddish-brown surface and whitish scale-like patches. The flesh is firm, white, and does not change upon bruising. Gills are white to grayish, adnate to slightly decurrent, and may develop brownish stains with maturity. The stipe is central to slightly eccentric, fibrous, and white to brown with a thicker base. A characteristic garlic-like odor may be observed. The spore print is white to pale buff, serving as a key diagnostic feature.
Microscopic confirmation involves observing basidia (club-shaped, 4-spored) and basidiospores, which are smooth, hyaline, and elliptical. Clamp connections are commonly present in hyphae, while cystidia are either absent or sparse.
Molecular verification includes DNA extraction followed by PCR amplification of the ITS region and sequencing. Sequence comparison using databases confirms species identity with high accuracy. These combined approaches ensure reliable identification for research and cosmeceutical applications(19).
Cosmetic use Shiitake mushrooms (Lentinula edodes)
Shiitake mushrooms (Lentinula edodes) are increasingly popular in cosmetics for their potent bioactive compounds like β-glucans, polysaccharides, polyphenols, and kojic acid-like substances, which deliver anti-aging, brightening, and protective benefits. Extracted from fruiting bodies or mycelium, they inhibit collagenase and elastase enzymes to prevent breakdown of skin's structural proteins, while stimulating new collagen synthesis for firmer, more elastic skin that resists wrinkles and sagging. As tyrosinase inhibitors, shiitake extracts curb melanin production, effectively fading hyperpigmentation, dark spots, melasma, and uneven tone for a brighter, radiant complexion without the irritation of synthetic whiteners. Their antioxidants—ergothioneine, selenium, and phenolics—scavenge ROS from UV exposure and pollution, shielding cells from oxidative damage and photoaging.
Polysaccharides act as humectants superior to hyaluronic acid in some formulations, bolstering the skin barrier, locking in moisture, and enhancing smoothness for plump, resilient texture. Anti-inflammatory properties soothe redness, calm sensitive or acne-prone skin, and accelerate barrier repair, making them ideal for eczema or rosacea.
In cosmeceuticals, shiitake features in serums for targeted brightening, hydrating creams and lotions for daily moisture, sheet masks for intensive treatment, gentle cleansers that preserve the barrier, and night creams blending with vitamin C or niacinamide. Liquid extracts standardized to polysaccharides ensure stability and efficacy in vegan, clean beauty products, often scented with essentials like ylang-ylang to mask Odor, with pH-balanced at skin-friendly 5.5. Safe for all types barring fungal allergies, they provide sustainable alternatives to chemical actives(20).
Medicinal Mushrooms
Medicinal mushrooms have been widely used in traditional medicine for centuries due to their therapeutic properties. They are rich in bioactive compounds such as β-glucans, polysaccharides, phenolics, and triterpenoids, which contribute to their antimicrobial, antioxidant, anticancer, and immunomodulatory effects. Species like Ganoderma lucidum, Lentinula edodes, Grifola frondosa, and Inonotus obliquus are well known for their health benefits and pharmacological potential.
Recently, interest in medicinal mushrooms has increased due to the need for natural alternatives to synthetic preservatives, especially in food safety applications. These mushrooms produce secondary metabolites capable of inhibiting bacteria, fungi, and spoilage yeasts. However, their antimicrobial activity varies depending on species, cultivation conditions, and extraction methods. Therefore, further research is essential to identify active compounds and explore their applications in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical industries(21).
Ganoderma lucidum is a medicinal fungus belonging to the Ganodermataceae family, widely distributed in subtropical and temperate regions. It is recognized for its glossy, kidney-shaped fruiting body and has been used in traditional medicine for centuries.This mushroom contains over 400 bioactive compounds, including polysaccharides (β-glucans) and triterpenoids (ganoderic acids), which are its primary active constituents. Other components such as ergosterol, fatty acids, amino acids, and nucleosides further enhance its biological activity. These compounds exhibit strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, and hepatoprotective effects.In skincare, Ganoderma lucidum offers significant anti-aging and protective benefits. It scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS), inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6, and protects the skin from oxidative stress. It also suppresses tyrosinase activity, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation and promote an even skin tone. Additionally, it inhibits UV-induced matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), preserving collagen and preventing wrinkle formation. Its ability to enhance skin barrier function and hydration makes it suitable for serums, creams, and other cosmeceutical formulations aimed at improving skin health and appearance(22).
Chemical constituents
Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi mushroom) features a diverse chemical profile rich in bioactive compounds that underpin its renowned medicinal and potential cosmetic applications. Dominating this composition are polysaccharides, particularly β-glucans, which comprise a significant portion of its dry weight (up to 28%) and exhibit potent antioxidant, immunomodulatory, and moisturizing effects; these soluble fibres strengthen the skin barrier, enhance hydration, and scavenge free radicals to combat oxidative stress. Triterpenoids represent another hallmark, with over 170 ganoderic acids (A, B, C, D, and variants) isolated from fruiting bodies, mycelium, and spores, delivering anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and tyrosinase-inhibiting properties that fade hyperpigmentation and preserve collagen integrity for firmer skin.
Sterols like ergosterol act as provitamin D2 precursors, offering antioxidant protection against UV damage while lowering oxidative burden in skin cells. Phenolic compounds and flavonoids bolster free radical scavenging, shielding against photoaging and environmental pollutants for brighter, even-toned complexion. Proteins (7–8% dry weight) and peptides supply essential amino acids such as leucine and lysine, promoting cellular regeneration, repair, and film-forming moisture retention in topical formulations. Nucleotides (adenosine, guanosine) and enzymes like metalloprotease support metabolic vitality.
Minerals including phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, selenium (up to 72 μg/g), zinc, iron, and manganese catalysed enzymatic reactions for anti-inflammatory and regenerative functions, while fatty acids and glycoproteins amplify overall nourishment.This synergistic makeup—echoing shiitake's profile—positions Reishi extracts in serums, creams, and masks as natural cosmeceuticals for anti-aging, brightening, and barrier support, varying by growth stage, part, and cultivation(23).
Identification test
Ganoderma lucidum (Ling-zhi or Reishi) demands rigorous, multi-level testing for accurate identification, distinguishing it from close relatives like G. Sichuanese due to high morphological plasticity and commercial adulteration risks in cosmetic or medicinal extracts.
Detailed Morphological Test
Scrutinize the basidioma (fruiting body) under a dissecting microscope or hand lens: caps measure 5–40 cm across (typically 10–25 cm), fan- or kidney-shaped, often lopsided with lateral stipe attachment; surface glossy-varnished in concentric zones of reddish-orange, purple, yellow, aging to dark brown-black with white marginal growth. Thickness reaches 1–4 cm; stem eccentric, 5–20 cm long × 1–3 cm wide, reddish-brown. Underside features white pores (4–6 per mm) aging brownish, releasing rusty spore deposit. Key differentiator: short clavate cutis elements (club-shaped hyphae, 10–30 × 5–10 μm) in the pilei Pellis—examine razor-thin sections in KOH or Melzer's reagent for these vs. elongated hyphae in mimics. Note substrate (hardwoods like oak), seasonality (summer-fall), and Odor (mild fungal). Variability arises from cultivation; wild specimens show more lactate sheen.
Detailed Microscopic Test
Prepare mounts from cap cuticle, context, tubes, and spores in 5% KOH, lactic acid, or Melzer's: scan at 400–1000× for Bovista-type ligative hyphae—thick-walled (2–5 μm), clamped, interconnected like a net in trama. Basidiospores: ovoid-ellipsoid, truncate base, double-walled, strongly echinulate (fine spines 0.5–1 μm), 7–13.5 × 6–8.5 μm, rusty-brown (amelanistic in KOH); count ≥50 for ornamentation consistency. Context trama golden-brown, dextrinoid; cystidia absent or clavate. These traits reliably separate G. lucidum s.s. from G. tsugae (milder ethynylation) or G. applanatum (white, non-lactate).
Detailed Molecular Test
Extract genomic DNA (CTAB/kit method), amplify via PCR: ITS (universal primers ITS1/ITS4), IGS1 (LR12R/38S1F), rpb2 (RPB2-6F/b7.2R or Ganoderma-specific). Sequence bidirectionally (Sanger/NGS), edit in Geneious/MEGA, BLASTn ≥99% to GenBank vouchers of G. sichuanense (often = Ling-zhi cultivar). Construct Bayesian/ML phylogenies (MrBayes/RAxML) with outgroups (G. meredithiae); ≥0.95 posterior probability confirms clade. Detect adulterants via HRM or qPCR; commercial products often mislabel G. lingzhi (Asian) vs. European G. lucidum. Gold standard for extracts.
Integrate all levels for 100% certainty, complementing Reishi's ganoderic acids/β-glucans for skincare validation(24).
Cosmetic use of Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi or Ling-zhi)
Ganoderma lucidum is a highly valued medicinal fungus widely used in modern cosmeceuticals due to its rich composition of polysaccharides (GLPs), triterpenoids (ganoderic acids, lucidenates), and proteins. These bioactive compounds provide multifunctional benefits for skin health, including anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-brightening effects.Reishi exhibits strong anti-inflammatory activity by suppressing pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6, helping to soothe irritated, sensitive, and acne-prone skin. Its triterpenoids also inhibit tyrosinase and regulate melanin synthesis pathways, making it effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, age spots, and uneven skin tone.
Additionally, Ganoderma lucidum demonstrates potent antioxidant properties by neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), thereby preserving collagen and elastin. This helps reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.It also supports skin barrier repair and wound healing by promoting fibroblast activity and collagen production. Furthermore, its polysaccharides enhance hydration, improve moisture retention, and maintain skin softness. These properties make Reishi an excellent natural ingredient for anti-aging, soothing, and restorative skincare formulations(22).
Hericium erinaceus, commonly known as Lion’s Mane, is an important edible and medicinal mushroom belonging to the family Hericiaceae under the class Agaricomycetes. It is widely distributed in temperate regions and typically grows on dead or decaying hardwood trees such as oak and pine, requiring a moist and well-ventilated environment for optimal growth.This mushroom is easily recognized by its unique appearance, consisting of white to cream-colored, cascading spines that resemble a lion’s mane or a monkey’s head. Traditionally used in Chinese medicine, Hericium erinaceus is valued for both its nutritional and therapeutic properties. It is rich in proteins, polysaccharides, dietary fiber, sterols, and alkaloids, which contribute to its biological activities.
Scientific studies have demonstrated that Lion’s Mane exhibits a wide range of pharmacological effects, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-ulcer, antitumor, and hepatoprotective activities. It is particularly known for its neuroprotective properties, as it stimulates nerve growth factor (NGF) synthesis, supporting brain health and cognitive function(25).
Chemical Constituents.
The fruiting bodies of Hericium erinaceus contain a wide range of bioactive compounds. Major constituents include ergostane-type sterols, which exhibit antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, and aromatic compounds with antimicrobial potential. Additionally, cerebrosides are present, contributing to nerve cell function and brain health. Unique compounds such as hericenones (from fruiting bodies) and erinacines (from mycelium) are particularly important for stimulating nerve growth factor (NGF) synthesis. These chemical constituents collectively support the mushroom’s neuroprotective, antimicrobial, and therapeutic properties, making it valuable in pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and functional food applications(26).
Identification test
Lion’s Mane mushroom (Hericium erinaceus) identification demands meticulous, multi-tiered protocols to distinguish it from lookalikes like H. coralloides (coral-like branches) or H. americanum (shorter spines), ensuring purity for cosmetic extracts rich in hericenones, erinacines, and β-glucans discussed earlier.
Detailed Morphological Identification
Lion’s mane mushroom (Hericium erinaceus) growing naturally on a tree trunk, displaying its distinctive cascading white spines.
Mycelium Culture. Inoculate on potato dextrose agar (PDA), malt extract agar (MEA), or liquid broth (18–26°C, 12-hour photoperiod, 80–90% RH). Mycelium emerges white to cream, cottony-fibrous with rope-like strands and clamp connections at hyphal septa (3–8 μm diameter, observable at 400× in lactophenol cotton blue). Radial growth spans 7–9 cm in 14 days; aerial mycelium dense by day 21. Slower, pigmented growth flags contamination. Optimal: 22–24°C, pH 5.5–6.5. Fruiting triggers at 10–15°C drop with 95% humidity.?
Fruiting Body (Basidioma). Examine on oak/beech substrates: 8–40 cm diameter, globose to turbinate masses of 1–5 cm pendulous, terete spines (initially translucent-white, maturing yellowish-brown, tips thickening). No cap/gills/pores—spines bear basidia; spore print white. Base: short, tough, off-white stipe merging seamlessly. Flesh: hydnoid, rubbery- monomitically hyphal, unchanging on cut. Odor: mild seafood-like. Emerges 18–30 days post-spawning on sterilized sawdust blocks; wild on wounded hardwoods (late summer-fall). Diagnostic: unbranched spine clusters vs. H. ramosum's dichotomous branching.
Detailed DNA Extraction
Harvest 200–500 mg lyophilized mycelium/fruiting spines; pulverize in liquid N? mortar. Lysis: Suspend in 1 mL CTAB buffer (2% CTAB, 100 mM Tris-HCl pH 8.0, 1.4 M NaCl, 20 mM EDTA, 0.5% PVP-40, 0.2% β- mercaptoethanol, 0.1 mg/mL proteinase K); incubate 65°C/1–2 hr with 1 hr RNase A (20 μg/mL). Purification: Triple extract phenol: chloroform : isoamyl alcohol (25:24:1 v/v), centrifuge 12,000g/10 min. Precipitate aqueous supernatant (0.7 vol cold isopropanol, 0.1 vol 3 M NaOAc pH 5.2) at −20°C/1 hr; pellet 13,000g/15 min, wash 70%/95% EtOH, air-dry, resuspend 50–100 μL TE (10 mM Tris pH 8, 1 mM EDTA). Quality: Nanodrop A260/280 1.8–2.0, A260/230 >2.0; 0.8% agarose (5 μL EtBr) shows high MW band sans smear.?
Detailed ITS-PCR Molecular Identification
Primers: ITS5 (5′-TCCTCCGCTTATTGATATGC-3′)/ITS4 (5′-TCCTCCGCTTATTGATATGC-3′) target ~650–750 bp barcode. Master Mix (25 μL): 12.5 μL 2× Taq (Thermo ), 1 μL each primer (10 μM), 2 μL DNA (20–50 ng/μL), 8.5 μL H?O. Cycling (Bio-Rad T100): 95°C/5 min; 35× [95°C/40 s, 55°C/1 min, 72°C/1 min]; 72°C/7 min; 4°C hold. Visualize 1.5% agarose: single sharp band confirms. Purification: ExoSAP-IT or gel-extract (QIAquick), Sanger sequence both directions (Applied Biosystems 3730xl). BLAST: ≥99% identity to GenBank AF397469 (verified H. erinaceus holotype) + E-value <1e−100.?
Phylogenetic Analysis
Alignment: CLUSTAL Omega/MUSCLE 20+ Hericium refs (H. abietis EU118637, H. alpestre DQ117240) + outgroup Tremella mesenterica (FJ845481). Tree: MEGA-X/ RAxML: Kimura-2-parameter NJ/ML (GTR+Γ), 1000 bootstrap replicates. Clade support ≥95% + monophyly with H. erinaceus references (TM194, CBS 487.95) validates.
Species-Specific Diagnostic PCR
HT-U1/HT-L1 Primers (ITS-derived): Forward 5′-GGTACCCGCTGACTAGCGGA-3′, Reverse 5′-GGTCCGTAGTGCTTGAAACTC-3′ amplify 250–300 bp H. erinaceus -unique fragment. Conditions: 95°C/3 min; 30× [94°C/30 s, 58°C/45 s, 72°C/45 s]; 72°C/5 min. Gel: positive = crisp band; negative in H. coralloides /americanum/other Basidiomycota. Sensitivity: 10 pg DNA(27).
Cosmetic Use Lion's Mane Mushroom (Hericium erinaceus)
Hericium erinaceus has gained significant attention in cosmetics due to its rich bioactive composition, including β-glucans, polysaccharides, hericenones, and erinacines. These compounds provide antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, hydrating, and regenerative benefits, making it suitable for clean beauty formulations.
Extracts standardized for polysaccharides act as effective skin conditioners in serums, creams, and masks. They form a protective, breathable film that enhances moisture retention, reduces transepidermal water loss, and improves skin elasticity, resulting in a plump and smooth texture .In anti-aging applications, Hericium erinaceus stimulates fibroblast activity, promoting collagen synthesis and reducing fine lines. It also inhibits melanin production, helping to fade hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.
Hericenones and erinacines contribute to nerve growth factor (NGF) stimulation, supporting cellular repair and accelerating skin healing. Additionally, its antioxidant properties protect against UV- and pollution-induced damage by neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS).Overall, Lion’s Mane is a non-comedogenic, stable, and multifunctional ingredient that enhances hydration, repair, and overall skin health in modern cosmeceutical formulations(28).
Chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) is a fascinating parasitic fungus from the Hymenochaetaceae family, renowned for its striking black, charcoal-like sclerotia that form irregular, cracked masses (10–50 cm) on birch trunks in cold climates across Northern Europe, Siberia, Russia, Northern Canada, Alaska, and parts of Asia. Thriving 10–80+ years within living Betula spp., it causes white heart rot, entering via wounds and producing only sterile outer conks during the host's life; fertile fruiting bodies emerge post-tree death beneath bark.
Traditionally revered since the 16th century in Russian, Chinese, Japanese, and Baltic folk medicine—used for gastrointestinal cancers, diabetes, infections, and liver disorders—modern research validates its rich bioactive profile of polysaccharides (β-glucans, IOPS), triterpenoids (inotodiol, lanosterol), polyphenols (gallic/syringic acids), betulinic acid, sterols, and melanin complexes that drive antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, immunomodulatory, and anti-melanogenic effects.
In cosmetics, Chaga extracts excel as tyrosinase inhibitors downregulating MITF/TYR for whitening hyperpigmentation (melasma, age spots), while bolstering DNA repair (XRCC5/6, RAD51 upregulation) against UVB damage and scavenging ROS for photoaging prevention. This complements shiitake (brightening), Reishi (ganoderic acids), and Lion's Mane (NGF/hericenones) in the mushroom cosmeceutical portfolio discussed throughout our conversation(29).
Chemical constituents
Chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) features a potent chemical profile rich in polysaccharides like β-glucans and acidic heteropolysaccharides (rhamnose, arabinose, glucose, galactose), which comprise ~10% dry weight and drive humectant, antioxidant, and skin barrier benefits for cosmetic hydration and protection. Triterpenoids including inotodiol, trametenolic acid, and lanostane derivatives deliver tyrosinase inhibition and anti-inflammatory action, while polyphenols (gallic, syringic, ferulic acids) and phenolic compounds excel at ROS scavenging to combat photoaging and hyperpigmentation via MITF downregulation.
Sterols such as ergosterol provide provitamin D activity with lipid barrier support, complemented by botulin / betulinic acid (host birch-derived), organic acids (oxalic), lignin-melanin complexes, proteins (~2–3%), and minerals (selenium, zinc) that enhance formulation stability and regenerative effects. This composition varies by sclerotia origin and extraction (aqueous > ethanol for phenolics), fuelling whitening serums that reduce melanin synthesis as discussed previously. Synergizing with Lion's Mane hericenones, Reishi ganoderic acids, and shiitake polysaccharides from earlier exchanges, Chaga positions as a premium natural active for brightening creams targeting melasma and age spots alongside anti-aging efficacy(30).
Identification test
High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis utilized a RStech HECTOR-M C18 column (250 × 4.6 mm, 5 μm) coupled with a Shimadzu HPLC 20A Prominence system, featuring LC-20 AD pumps, SPD-20A UV/VIS detector, SPD-M20A DAD, SIL-20A autosampler, and CBM-20A communication module for precise quantification of bioactive compounds from Chaga mushroom extracts.
The mobile phase comprised water and organic solvents (likely acetonitrile/methanol gradients typical for triterpenoids, phenolics, and polysaccharides), delivered at 1.0 mL/min with 10 μL injections. Detection at 210 nm optimally captures chromophores in inotodiol, betulinic acid, gallic/syringic acids, and phenylethanoid glycosides—key whitening actives discussed earlier—over a 30-minute run time.
This standardized method ensures reproducible fingerprinting of Chaga's melanogenesis inhibitors (tyrosinase/ Mitf suppressors) for cosmeceutical quality control, complementing identification protocols for shiitake, Reishi, and Lion's Mane in whitening serum development. UV/DAD detection at 210 nm targets conjugated systems in polysaccharides and triterpenoids responsible for DNA repair upregulation (XRCC5/6, RAD51) and ROS scavenging observed in UVB-zebrafish studies(31).
Cosmetics use of Inonotus obliquus (Chaga mushroom)
Inonotus obliquus (Chaga mushroom) has surged in cosmetic importance for its multifaceted anti-melanogenic, antioxidant, and protective benefits, making it a cornerstone natural active in skin whitening formulations.
Chaga potently inhibits tyrosinase—the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin biosynthesis—while downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), the master regulator of melanocyte differentiation, resulting in significantly reduced melanin production in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. This translates to effective treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders including melasma, solar lentigo, freckles, post-inflammatory marks, and uneven skin tone, with studies confirming dose-dependent suppression of TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2 expression. Its robust antioxidant capacity, driven by polysaccharides (IOPS), triterpenoids ( inotodiol, betulinic acid), and polyphenols (gallic/syringic acids), scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS) from UV/pollution exposure, preventing photoaging, collagen degradation (MMP-1 inhibition), and DNA damage while upregulating repair genes (XRCC5/6, RAD51) as demonstrated in UVB-zebrafish models.
Anti-inflammatory properties soothe irritated/sensitive skin, bolster barrier function via β-glucan humectancy , and accelerate recovery, positioning Chaga extracts (1–5% in serums, 0.5–3% in creams) across brightening treatments, anti-aging night formulations, post-sun masks, and calming lotions .As a sustainable, low-toxicity alternative to synthetic agents like hydroquinone, Chaga synergizes with shiitake (kojic-like), Reishi (ganoderic acids), and Lion's Mane (hericenones/ acteoside boost) from prior discussions, delivering comprehensive whitening, repair, and protection validated by HPLC standardization and identification protocols(30).
Trametes versicolor is a widely distributed medicinal fungus belonging to the family Ganodermataceae and classified as a white-rot fungus. It is named for its distinctive multicolored, fan-shaped fruiting body resembling a turkey’s tail and is commonly found on decaying hardwood in forests across Asia, Europe, and North America. Ecologically, it plays a vital role in lignin degradation and nutrient cycling. This mushroom is rich in bioactive compounds such as polysaccharides (β-glucans), proteoglycans, phenolics, and terpenoids. Among these, polysaccharide-K (PSK) and polysaccharide peptide (PSP) are well-known for their strong immunomodulatory and antitumor properties. They enhance immune function by activating natural killer cells, stimulating T-lymphocytes, and promoting cytokine production, thereby strengthening both innate and adaptive immunity. Additionally, Trametes versicolor exhibits antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and hepatoprotective activities. It effectively scavenges free radicals and inhibits inflammatory pathways. The presence of ligninolytic enzymes such as laccase and peroxidases also supports its applications in bioremediation. Due to these properties, it is increasingly utilized in nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic formulations(32).
Chemical constituents
Trametes versicolor (Turkey Tail mushroom) boasts a rich chemical profile dominated by high molecular weight polysaccharides—primarily α-glucans and (1→4)-β-glucans (>107 kDa)—where glucose forms the predominant monosaccharide with linear (1→4) glycosidic linkages and low branching, making these the key bioactive carbohydrate fraction for immune modulation and antioxidant activity. Soluble proteins (<3 kDa) and free amino acids abound, especially aspartic and glutamic acids, alongside essential minerals (phosphorus, magnesium, potassium), free sugars, and ash content that support nutritional value. Fatty acids feature prominently as palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids, contributing anti-inflammatory lipid benefits.
¹H/¹³C NMR confirms both α- and β-anomeric configurations (higher α-linkages), while phenolic compounds (p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic acids), flavonoids (20+ aglycones/glycosides), and polysaccharopeptides (PSP/PSK ~100 kDa) drive ROS scavenging and bioactivity.
This composition positions Turkey Tail alongside shiitake, Reishi, Lion's Mane, and Chaga in cosmeceutical whitening portfolios, where β-glucans enhance barrier function/hydration and phenolics complement tyrosinase inhibition for anti-pigmentation synergy(33).
Identification Test
Trametes versicolor (Turkey Tail mushroom) identification leverages PCR targeting conserved copper-binding regions of laccase genes—hallmark ligninolytic enzymes distinguishing it from shiitake (Lentinula edodes) or Phanerochaete chrysosporium. Genomic DNA Extraction & PCR. Extract DNA from fruiting bodies/mycelium using CTAB/phenol-chloroform, yielding high-quality template (A260/280 1.8–2.0). Amplify with laccase-specific primers flanking copper-binding domains: ~200 bp fragment uniquely identifies T. versicolor vs. ~150 bp (shiitake) or ~400 bp ( P. chrysosporium ) .
Gel Electrophoresis. Resolve amplicons on 1.5–2% agarose (EtBr/TBE, 90V/45 min); T. versicolor yields crisp 200 bp band, confirmed by size ladder. Sensitivity spans 1 µg–1 ng DNA, ideal for mixed cultures or extract authentication.
PCR- Molecular identification of Turkey Tail mushroom (Trametes versicolor) was carried out using PCR amplification of the LSU (Large Subunit) rDNA region, which is widely used for fungal identification due to its conserved and species-specific sequences. The PCR reaction was performed in a total volume of 20 µl containing 1X PCR buffer with 1.5 mM MgCl?, 0.2 mM of each dNTPs, 1 µl of template DNA, 0.2 µl of Phire Hot Start II DNA polymerase, 0.1 mg/ml BSA, 3% DMSO, 0.5 M betaine, and 5 pM each of forward and reverse primers. The primers used were LR0R (5′-ACCCGCTGAACTTAAGC-3′) and LR5 (5′-TCCTGAGGGAAACTTCG-3′), which specifically target the LSU rDNA region. The amplification was carried out in a thermal cycler such as the Gene Amp 9700 PCR System under optimized cycling conditions including initial denaturation, followed by 30–35 cycles of denaturation, annealing, and extension, and a final extension step. The amplified PCR products were analyzed by agarose gel electrophoresis using 1.2% agarose gel prepared in 0.5X TBE buffer containing ethidium bromide. The samples were mixed with loading dye and electrophoresed for 1–2 hours, after which the DNA bands were visualized under UV light using a gel documentation system. A distinct band of approximately 800–1000 base pairs confirmed successful amplification of the LSU region. The PCR products were then subjected to DNA sequencing using a DNA analyser from Applied Biosystems. The obtained sequences were edited and trimmed using Bio Edit and aligned using Clustal W. Further analysis was performed using BLAST to compare the sequence with database entries, and a similarity of 97–99% with Trametes versicolor confirmed the identity of the isolate(34).
Cosmetic Use of Turkey Tail
Trametes versicolor is a medicinal fungus valued for its rich content of polysaccharopeptides (PSPs), particularly PSK and PSP, which exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory properties. These bioactive compounds make it a promising ingredient in advanced cosmeceutical formulations. PSPs demonstrate strong free radical scavenging activity, effectively neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protecting the skin from oxidative stress, UV-induced damage, and environmental pollutants. This action helps reduce wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and prevent premature aging.
In addition, Trametes versicolor exhibits anti-inflammatory effects by suppressing cytokines such as TNF-α and IL-6, thereby soothing redness, irritation, and sensitive skin conditions like acne or rosacea. Its β-glucan content enhances skin hydration, strengthens the barrier function, and promotes repair of damaged skin. The immunomodulatory properties further support skin Défense by enhancing innate immunity and preventing microbial invasion. When incorporated into creams, serums, and masks, often in combination with ingredients like vitamin C or niacinamide, it contributes to improved skin tone, resilience, and overall radiance, making it highly valuable in natural anti-aging skincare products(35).
REFERENCES
Sumit Rathod, Vinay Shirsat, Tanvi Chauthmal, Avishkar Jadhav, Pooja Petkar, Different Types of Mushrooms and Its Cosmetical Uses, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2026, Vol 4, Issue 4, 1686-1707. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.19504243
10.5281/zenodo.19504243