Formulation And Evalution of Herbal Peel Off Face Mask Gel Using Shankhapusphi Flower and Beal Leaves

A. Epidermis

The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and functions as the primary protective barrier against physical injury, harmful chemicals, microorganisms, and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This layer is avascular, receiving nutrients and oxygen through diffusion from the underlying dermis. It is mainly composed of keratinocytes, along with melanocytes, Langerhans cells, and Merkel cells, each contributing to skin protection and sensory functions.

The epidermis consists of five distinct layers:

a.StratumCorneum:
The stratum corneum is the outermost layer composed of flattened, dead keratinized cells embedded in lipids. It forms a strong protective barrier that minimizes water loss while preventing the entry of harmful microorganisms and chemicals.

b.StratumLucidum:
This thin, transparent layer is present only in thick skin, such as the palms and soles. It provides additional protection against mechanical stress and friction.

c.StratumGranulosum:
Cells in this layer contain keratohyalin granules that promote keratin formation and contribute to the development of the skin's waterproof barrier.

d.StratumSpinosum:
Known as the prickle-cell layer, the stratum spinosum consists of polygonal keratinocytes connected by desmosomes, providing structural integrity and mechanical strength to the epidermis.

e.StratumBasale(StratumGerminativum):
The deepest epidermal layer contains actively dividing basal cells responsible for continuous epidermal renewal. It also houses melanocytes, which synthesize melanin to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation, and Merkel cells involved in tactile sensation.

B. Dermis

The dermis lies immediately beneath the epidermis and is composed primarily of connective tissue rich in collagen and elastin fibers. It provides structural support, elasticity, and nourishment to the epidermis through an extensive network of blood vessels. The dermis also contains hair follicles, sebaceous glands, sweat glands, sensory nerve endings, lymphatic vessels, and blood vessels that collectively contribute to skin function and repair.

C. Hypodermis (Subcutaneous Tissue)

The hypodermis, also known as the subcutaneous layer, is situated beneath the dermis and, although not considered a true part of the skin, plays an important supportive role. It consists mainly of adipose tissue and loose connective tissue containing fibroblasts, macrophages, and adipocytes. This layer provides thermal insulation, mechanical cushioning, energy storage, and anchors the skin to the underlying muscles and bones.

Types of Skin and Their Characteristics

Normal Skin

• Possesses a balanced level of oil and moisture.
• Appears smooth, soft, and evenly toned with fine pores.
• Generally free from excessive dryness, oiliness, or sensitivity.

Dry Skin

• Produces insufficient sebum, resulting in roughness, tightness, and flaking.
• May appear dull and is more susceptible to irritation and sensitivity.

Oily Skin

• Characterized by excessive sebum production, giving the skin a shiny appearance.
• Enlarged pores are common, along with an increased tendency for acne and blackheads.

Combination Skin

• Exhibits both oily and dry characteristics.
• The T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) is typically oily, whereas the cheeks remain normal or dry.

Functions of the Skin

1. Serves as a protective barrier against physical injury, microorganisms, chemicals, and ultraviolet radiation.
2. Helps regulate body temperature through sweating and changes in blood circulation.
3. Provides sensory perception by detecting touch, pressure, pain, heat, and cold through specialized nerve endings.
4. Prevents excessive loss of body water, thereby maintaining hydration and electrolyte balance.
5. Facilitates the absorption of certain topical medications and cosmetic preparations.
6. Acts as a waterproof barrier that protects underlying tissues and internal organs from environmental damage.
7. Participates in the synthesis of vitamin D when exposed to sunlight, contributing to calcium metabolism.
8. Supports immune defense through the presence of specialized immune cells that recognize and combat invading pathogens.⁶

Peel-Off Face Masks

Peel-off face masks are topical skincare formulations that are applied as a thin layer to the skin and allowed to dry, forming a flexible film that can be removed by peeling. These masks are widely used for facial cleansing and cosmetic care because they effectively eliminate accumulated dirt, excess sebum, dead skin cells, and other surface impurities. The film-forming property of peel-off masks enables close contact with the skin, facilitating the removal of debris while leaving the skin smooth, clean, and refreshed.

In addition to their cleansing action, peel-off masks help improve skin texture, enhance hydration, and provide a temporary tightening effect that promotes a healthy and radiant appearance. The occlusive film formed during application increases the contact time of active ingredients with the skin, allowing better penetration and improved efficacy. Herbal peel-off masks are particularly popular because they incorporate natural plant extracts possessing antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and skin-conditioning properties.

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and environmental pollutants generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals, which accelerate oxidative stress and contribute to premature skin aging, pigmentation, erythema, and loss of skin elasticity. Peel-off masks containing antioxidant-rich herbal ingredients help neutralize these free radicals, thereby protecting the skin from oxidative damage and supporting overall skin health. Owing to their convenience, ease of application, and ability to deliver multifunctional benefits, peel-off masks have become an important category of modern cosmetic and cosmeceutical products.^6,7

Types of Peel-Off Face Masks

a. Peel-Off Masks

Peel-off masks are applied uniformly over the face and allowed to dry until they form a continuous film. Once dried, the film is gently removed in a single layer, carrying away dead skin cells, excess oil, and impurities from the skin surface. These masks provide deep cleansing and leave the skin feeling smoother and revitalized.

b. Sheet Masks

Sheet masks consist of fabric, hydrogel, or bio-cellulose sheets impregnated with concentrated serums. They are designed to deliver moisturizing, soothing, brightening, or anti-aging ingredients directly to the skin while minimizing evaporation and enhancing ingredient absorption.

c. Charcoal and Clay Masks

Charcoal- and clay-based masks are formulated to absorb excess sebum, remove impurities, and unclog pores. Activated charcoal and natural clays possess excellent adsorptive properties that help detoxify the skin and improve complexion, making these masks particularly suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.

d. Leave-On Masks

Leave-on masks are moisturizing formulations that remain on the skin for an extended period, ranging from 15–30 minutes to overnight. They are enriched with humectants, emollients, and nourishing ingredients that provide prolonged hydration and improve skin softness without requiring immediate removal.⁷

Benefits of Peel-Off Face Masks

1. Effectively remove dead skin cells, excess oil, and surface impurities, promoting cleaner skin.
2. Help unclog pores and reduce the formation of blackheads and whiteheads.
3. Improve skin smoothness, softness, and overall texture.
4. Enhance skin hydration and provide a refreshed, healthy-looking complexion.
5. Support skin tightening and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
6. Increase the contact time of active ingredients with the skin, improving their effectiveness.
7. Provide antioxidant protection when formulated with herbal extracts, helping to reduce oxidative stress and premature skin aging.
8. Offer a convenient, non-invasive, and easy-to-use skincare treatment suitable for regular cosmetic care.⁸

Precautions Before Using a Herbal Peel-Off Face Mask

• Perform a patch test before the first application to check for possible allergic or hypersensitivity reactions.
• Avoid applying the mask near the eyes, lips, eyebrows, and other sensitive areas.
• Do not use the product on broken, inflamed, infected, or sunburned skin.
• Discontinue use immediately if irritation, burning, itching, or redness develops.
• Apply a thin and uniform layer to ensure proper drying and easy removal.
• Use the mask only one to two times per week unless otherwise recommended.
• Store the formulation in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and excessive heat.

Keep the product tightly closed and out of the reach of children

OBJECTIVES OF THE FORMULATION

• To formulate a herbal peel-off face mask gel containing Shankhpushpi flower and Bael leaf extracts as herbal active ingredients.
• To incorporate suitable excipients such as PVA, HPMC E15, glycerin, propylene glycol, Thunbergia erecta, benzyl alcohol and rose water to obtain a stable and user-friendly formulation.
• To evaluate the formulated face mask gel for its organoleptic and physicochemical properties such as colour, appearance, consistency, pH, spreadability, drying time, peelability, folding endurance and washability.
• To investigate the phytochemical constituents and antioxidant activity of the herbal extracts incorporated in the formulation.
• To select the optimized formulation based on its overall evaluation results and assess its potential as a natural cosmetic preparation for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging applications.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Materials

Shankhapushpi flowers and Bael (Aegle marmelos) leaves were collected from a suitable local source and authenticated before use. The collected plant materials were cleaned, shade-dried and powdered separately. The powdered materials were used for the preparation of aqueous extracts. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC E15), glycerin, propylene glycol, Thunbergia erecta flower extract, benzyl alcohol and rose water were used for the preparation of the herbal peel-off face mask gel. All other chemicals and excipients used were of laboratory grade.

1. Shankhapushpi flower extract: It was used as a herbal active ingredient because of its reported phytoconstituents and antioxidant potential, supporting the intended skin-rejuvenating and anti-aging activity of the formulation. ^10.11,12
2. Bael leaf extract: It was incorporated as a herbal active ingredient due to its bioactive constituents, particularly phenolic and flavonoid compounds, which are associated with antioxidant and other skin-beneficial properties. ^13,14
3. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA): PVA was used as a film-forming polymer. It forms a uniform and flexible film on drying, providing the characteristic peel-off property of the face mask.^16,17
4. Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC E15): HPMC was used as a thickening and stabilizing agent. It improves the viscosity, consistency and uniformity of the formulation. ¹⁸
5. Glycerin: Glycerin was incorporated as a moisturizing and humectant agent. It helps retain moisture and reduces excessive dryness of the skin. ²¹
6. Propylene glycol: Propylene glycol was used as a humectant and co-solvent. It assists in maintaining moisture and promotes uniform incorporation of the formulation ingredients. ²²
7. Thunbergia erecta flower extract: It was used as a natural colouring agent to impart an attractive natural colour to the herbal peel-off face mask gel. The flower also contains plant-derived phytoconstituents with potential antioxidant activity. ¹⁵
8. Benzyl alcohol: Benzyl alcohol was used as a preservative to protect the formulation from microbial contamination and improve its storage stability. ²⁰
9. Rose water: Rose water was incorporated as a fragrance and cosmetic base component to provide a pleasant odour and improve the sensory characteristics of the formulation. ¹⁹

METHOD OF PREPARATION

• All the ingredients were accurately weighed and measured according to the formulation composition and kept ready for preparation.
• PVA was added to heated distilled water with continuous stirring until a clear and uniform polymeric solution was obtained, followed by cooling of the solution.
• Shankhapushpi flower extract, Bael leaf extract and Thunbergia erecta flower extract were added to the cooled PVA solution. Glycerin and propylene glycol were then incorporated and mixed thoroughly to obtain a uniform mixture.
• The prepared HPMC E15 gel base was gradually added to the above mixture with gentle and continuous stirring until a smooth and homogeneous gel was obtained.
• Finally, benzyl alcohol and rose water were added as preservative and fragrance, respectively. The formulation was gently mixed to obtain a smooth, homogeneous and lump-free herbal peel-off face mask gel and transferred into a clean, dry, airtight container for further evaluation.

Table 01:Formulation of Herbal Peel off Face Mask Gel.

Procedure of Peel off Face mask Application

• Clean the face thoroughly to remove makeup, dirt, and excess oil. Make sure the skin is dry.
• Open the container and take a suitable amount of gel using clean fingers or a brush.
• Apply a thin, even layer on your face, avoiding eyes, eyebrows, and lips.
• Let the mask dry naturally for 15–20 minutes.
• Once dry and firm, gently peel off the mask starting from the edges.
• Rinse off any remaining residue with lukewarm water and pat your skin dry with a clean towel.[7]

EVALUATION PARAMETERS

A.  Organoleptic Evaluation

The prepared herbal peel-off mask was evaluated for basic physicalcharacteristics:

• Color: A small amount was placed on a white surface to check its shade and uniformity.
• Appearance: Examined carefully to ensure the mask was smooth and free of lumps.
• Consistency: A thin layer was applied on the skin to assess smooth spreading.
• Texture: Felt between fingers to confirm it was soft and non-gritty.
• Odor: Mixed with a little water and smelled to ensure a pleasant, mild fragrance.²³

B.  Physiochemical Evaluation

• pH Measurement: A small sample was mixed in distilled water, tested with pH strips, and compared with a standard chart to ensure skin-friendliness.24
• Spreadability Test: 1 g of the mask was placed on butter paper, covered with a glass plate, and pressed with 50 g weight for 2 minutes. The diameter of spread (D) was measured and calculated.^25,26

Formula

Where,

D = Diameter of formulation after compression (cm)

𝜋 = 3.14 (Approximate value)

• Drying Time: A thin layer was applied on the skin, and the time taken to dry completely was noted.²⁶
• Folding Endurance: A dried strip of mask was folded repeatedly at the same point until it broke, the number of folds indicated flexibility.²⁶
• Peelability: A uniform layer was applied on the hand, dried for 10–30 minutes, and peeled; smooth peeling confirmed good film formation.²⁷
• Washability Test: The  dried  mask  was  rinsed  with  plain  water  to  ensure  it  removed  easily  without  leaving  sticky  or  oily  residue.²⁸

C. Phytochemical Screening : Preliminary phytochemical screening of Shankhapushpi and Bael leaf extracts revealed the presence of various bioactive phytoconstituents, including flavonoids, phenolic compounds, alkaloids, triterpenoids, saponins, glycosides, and phytosterols. The presence of flavonoids and phenolic compounds is particularly important due to their reported antioxidant potential. These phytoconstituents may contribute to the biological activity of the herbal extracts. The findings support the selection of Shankhapushpi and Bael leaves as herbal ingredients for cosmetic application. Thus, the phytochemical screening results support their incorporation into the herbal peel-off face mask gel.²⁰

D. Antioxdiant Assay : The antioxidant activity was evaluated using the DPPH radical scavenging assay. The extracts demonstrated free-radical scavenging activity, indicating their potential antioxidant properties. This activity may be mainly associated with the presence of phenolic compounds and flavonoids identified during phytochemical screening. Antioxidant activity may help protect the skin from oxidative stress and support its rejuvenating properties. Therefore, the results support the potential use of the formulated herbal peel-off face mask gel for skin rejuvenation and anti-aging cosmetic applications.²¹

RESULTS

A. Organoleptic Parameters

The Physical properties of the formulated Herbal Peel off mask were evaluated by Colur, Odour, Appearance, Consistency and texture.

Table 02: Result of Organoleptic Properties.

B.Physiochemical Parameters

The physicochemical properties of the formulated herbal peel-off mask were   evaluated based on the following parameters:

• pH,
• Spreadability,
• Drying time,
• Folding endurance,
• Peelability,
• Washability test
• Phytochemical Screening
• Antioxidant Assay

Table 03: pH of Formulation F1 to F4.

Figure 02:pH test

Figure 03:pH of Formulation F1 to F4

Table 04: Spreadabity of Formulation F1 to F4

Figure 04: Spreadability Test.

Figure 05: Spreadability of Formulation F1 to F4.

Figure 06: Peelability Test.

Table 06 :Preliminary phytochemical screening of the extracts

Table 07 :In-vitro anti-oxidant activity of clitorea ternatea flower extract by DPPH radical

scavenging assay.

2² Factorial Design with PVA and HPMC by using Design Expert Software:

Figure 7 :2² Factorial Design with PVA and HPMC

Figure 8: The Line graph showing the effect of PVA and HPMC Concentration on Peelability

Figure 9: The Line graph showing the effect of PVA and HPMC Concentration on Spreadability

Figure 10 : Numerical Optimization/Desirability analysis