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1,4,5 Shree Ambabai Talim Santha’s Diploma in Pharmacy College, Miraj, Maharashtra 416410
2 Adarsh College of Pharmacy, Vita, Maharashtra, 145311
3 Krishna Institute of Pharmacy, Krishna Vishwa Vidhyapeeth, deemed to be University, Malkapur, Karad
Vedic kajal, a traditional ocular cosmetic rooted in Ayurveda, has long been valued not only for its aesthetic appeal but also for its therapeutic properties. Central to its formulation are carrier oils, which influence the stability, efficacy, and safety of the product. This review explores the impact of three prominent carrier oils—castor oil, almond oil, and ghee—on the preparation and application of Vedic kajal. The scope includes historical perspectives, physicochemical characteristics, and modern scientific evidence supporting their roles. Castor oil, rich in ricinolein acid, is traditionally recognized for its cooling, antimicrobial, and soothing properties, making it a preferred base for ocular formulations. Almond oil, abundant in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, contributes to nourishment and antioxidant protection, enhancing both cosmetic and therapeutic value. Ghee, revered in Ayurveda, provides lubrication, soothing effects, and bioavailability of fat-soluble compounds, though its stability and shelf-life pose challenges. Comparative analysis highlights the unique contributions and limitations of each oil, while modern studies validate several traditional claims. The findings suggest that carrier oils are not merely inert bases but active components that determine the holistic impact of kajal. In conclusion, integrating traditional wisdom with contemporary research can optimize formulations, ensuring both cultural relevance and scientific credibility.
Kajal, also known as kohl or anjana, has been an integral part of Vedic and Ayurvedic traditions for thousands of years. Beyond its cosmetic appeal, kajal was historically prepared using soot from medicinal herbs and natural oils, and was believed to promote ocular health, protect against infections, and enhance vision. (1) Ancient Ayurvedic texts such as Sushruta Samhita and Charaka Samhita describe formulations of anjana enriched with herbs and oils, emphasizing its dual role as a beauty enhancer and therapeutic agent (2)
Importance of Carrier Oils in Formulation:
Carrier oils serve as the base medium in kajal preparation, influencing its texture, stability, and therapeutic efficacy. In Ayurveda, oils such as castor, almond, and ghee are not considered inert but active components that deliver nourishment, cooling, and protective properties to the eyes (3). Their lipid composition allows for better solubility of herbal extracts, enhances bioavailability of fat-soluble compounds, and provides lubrication to delicate ocular tissues (4)
Rationale for Reviewing Castor Oil, Almond Oil, and Ghee:
Among the various oils used, castor oil, almond oil, and ghee are most frequently cited in Ayurvedic and modern herbal cosmetic formulations. Castor oil is valued for its antimicrobial and soothing properties; almond oil is rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, offering antioxidant and nourishing effects; while ghee, revered in Ayurveda, provides lubrication and cooling, though its stability poses challenges. Reviewing these oils together provides a holistic understanding of their comparative benefits, limitations, and relevance in both traditional and modern contexts. (1)
2.1 Origins of Kajal in Ayurveda/Vedic Practices:
Kajal, also known as anjana in Sanskrit, has its roots in Vedic and Ayurvedic traditions dating back over 3,000 years. Ancient Ayurvedic texts such as the Sushruta Samhita, Charaka Samhita, and Kashyapa Samhita describe anjana as an eye salve prepared from herbal soot and oils, used both cosmetically and medicinally (4). It was considered part of daily dinacharya (routine) for maintaining ocular health, protecting the eyes from dust, glare, and infections, while also enhancing beauty. In Ayurveda, the eyes are regarded as the seat of Tejas (radiance), making their care central to overall well-being. (5)
2.2 Traditional Preparation Methods:
Traditional preparation of kajal involved burning cotton wicks soaked in ghee or oil in an earthen lamp (diya). The soot collected on a metal plate was carefully scraped and mixed with carrier oils such as castor oil, almond oil, or ghee to form a smooth paste. Additional ingredients like camphor, saffron, or herbal extracts were sometimes incorporated to enhance cooling, antimicrobial, or nourishing properties. This artisanal process ensured that kajal was free from synthetic chemicals and aligned with Ayurvedic principles of purity and balance. (6)
2.3 Symbolic and Medicinal Uses:
Kajal held symbolic significance in Indian culture, often applied to infants to ward off the “evil eye” and to adults as a mark of beauty and auspiciousness (7). Medicinally, it was believed to prevent eye strain, reduce irritation, and protect against infections. Organic formulations enriched with herbs and oils were said to improve vision, soothe ocular tissues, and act as natural lubricants. Thus, kajal functioned as both a cultural ornament and a therapeutic agent, embodying the holistic philosophy of Ayurveda where aesthetics and health are intertwined. (1)
3. CARRIER OILS IN VEDIC KAJAL
Chemical Composition:
Castor oil (Ricinus communis) is composed predominantly of ricinoleic acid (~90%), a unique hydroxylated fatty acid that imparts polarity and bioactivity. Minor constituents include oleic, linoleic, stearic, and palmitic acids. (8)
Traditional Uses in Eye Care:
Ayurveda describes Eranda Taila (castor oil) as cooling and soothing, often used in anjana (eye salves) to reduce irritation and protect against microbial infections.
Cosmetic and Therapeutic Properties
Synergistic: Castor Oil is unique for its ricinoleic acid, which provides strong anti-inflammatory and lubricating properties. Often synergistic with herbal soot in kajal, enhancing Spreadability and antimicrobial action.
Safety Considerations
Chemical Composition:
Almond oil (Prunus amygdalus) is rich in vitamin E (tocopherols), oleic acid (MUFA), linoleic acid (PUFA), and phytosterols. These compounds act as antioxidants and nourish delicate ocular tissues.
Role in Nourishing and Protecting Eyes:
Traditionally, almond oil (Badam taila) was applied around the eyes to reduce dark circles and oxidative stress. In kajal, it improves smoothness and provides a protective layer.
Cosmetic and Therapeutic Properties
Synergistic: Almond Oil is Distinct for its vitamin E content, offering antioxidant protection. Synergistic when combined with castor oil, as it adds nourishment and cosmetic appeal (smooth texture, glossy finish).
Safety Considerations
Ayurvedic Significance:
Ghee (Ghrita) is considered a sattvic substance in Ayurveda, balancing pitta dosha and promoting ocular health. It is frequently used in formulations like Triphala Ghrit for eye care.
Nutritional and Medicinal Properties:
Ghee contains saturated fats, vitamins A, D, E, and K, and conjugated linoleic acid. These compounds contribute to its nourishing and therapeutic qualities.
Cosmetic and Therapeutic Properties
Synergistic: Ghee is Unique as a traditional Ayurvedic base, considered sattvic and spiritually purifying. Synergistic with herbal extracts (e.g., Triphala), as it enhances bioavailability of fat-soluble compounds.
Safety Considerations
Traditional infant kajal use raises hygiene concerns without standardization
Table 1: Comparative Analysis of Carrier Oils in Vedic Kajal (13,14,15)
|
Property / Aspect |
Castor Oil (Ricinus communis) |
Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus) |
Ghee (Ghrita) |
|
Main Constituents |
Ricinoleic acid (~90%), oleic & linoleic acids, antioxidants |
Vitamin E (α-tocopherol), oleic acid, linoleic acid, phytosterols |
Saturated fats, CLA, vitamins A, D, E, K |
|
Traditional Role |
Cooling, antimicrobial, soothing in anjana |
Nourishing, antioxidant, protective for periocular skin |
Lubricating, soothing, balances pitta dosha |
|
Modern Evidence |
Used in eye drops for dry eye; anti-inflammatory |
Antioxidant protection against oxidative stress; supports retinal health |
Improves lubrication, used in Triphala Ghrit for ocular therapy |
|
Limitations |
Risk of contamination; myths about curing glaucoma/ cataracts |
Possible nut allergy; rancidity if not stored properly |
Short shelf-life; prone to rancidity; microbial growth risk |
4.1 Modern Pharmacological Studies on Castor Oil, Almond Oil, and Ghee
Overall, the modern literature for direct ocular pharmacology of these oils is developing; castor oil has the strongest safety dossier in cosmetics, almond oil’s evidence is more dermatologic than ophthalmic, and ghee’s support is largely traditional and product?level rather than clinical trial?based
4.2 Clinical or Experimental Data on Ocular Health
4.3 Gaps Between Traditional Claims and Modern Validation
Castor oil, almond oil, and ghee are widely incorporated into herbal cosmetics due to their emollient, antioxidant, and stabilizing properties. Castor oil is used in ophthalmic lubricants and cosmetic formulations because of its ricinoleic acid content, which provides anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. Almond oil is valued for its vitamin E and fatty acid profile, making it a common ingredient in under-eye creams, kajal pencils, and baby-safe cosmetics. Ghee is traditionally used in Ayurvedic formulations such as Triphala Ghrita for ocular therapy, acting as a soothing and lubricating base. These oils not only serve as carriers but also actively contribute therapeutic benefits, aligning traditional Ayurvedic wisdom with modern cosmetic science.
The global demand for natural and herbal cosmetics has created strong commercialization opportunities: Castor oil is already a major export commodity from India, used in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and industrial applications. Almond oil enjoys high consumer demand in skincare and haircare markets, with cold-pressed variants marketed as premium products. Ghee-based Ayurvedic eye formulations are increasingly available in e-commerce platforms, marketed for their cultural authenticity and holistic benefits. The commercialization potential lies in combining traditional formulations with modern packaging, safety validation, and global marketing strategies.
Sustainability is critical for modern herbal formulations: Castor oil supply chains are increasingly adopting sustainable farming practices, with initiatives ensuring traceability and fair trade for farmers. Almond oil production faces challenges of water-intensive cultivation, making ethical sourcing and organic certification important for eco-conscious consumers. Ghee producers emphasize native sourcing, traditional processing, and quality checks to ensure purity and reduce contamination risks. Ethical sourcing not only ensures product safety but also strengthens consumer trust in Ayurvedic-inspired cosmetics.(17-25)
6.1 Standardization of Formulations
Traditional kajal varies widely in raw materials (herbal soot sources), carrier oils (castor, almond, ghee), particle size, pH, viscosity, and hygiene practices, leading to inconsistent safety and performance. Recent academic work on herbal kajal highlights the need for defined specifications and validated methods for physico?chemical testing (e.g., pH, Spreadability, stability, microbial limits) to enable reproducible outcomes and regulatory acceptance. Establishing pharmacopeial monographs for Vedic kajal and its carrier oils—covering identity, purity, contaminants (heavy metals, PAHs), and shelf?life—would support safer home and commercial production (26)
Core Needs
6.2 Need for Clinical Trials
Despite widespread traditional use, ocular claims (lubrication, soothing, protection from irritation) for kajal prepared with castor oil, almond oil, or ghee lack robust, controlled clinical validation. Dedicated study designs—ophthalmic safety (ISO 10993 eye irritation), tear film metrics (TBUT, osmolarity), meibomian gland function, and patient?reported outcomes—are required to translate cultural practice into evidence?based indications. India’s growing clinical research infrastructure and contract research expertise can enable in vitro, ex vivo, and randomized trials tailored to cosmetic?ophthalmic products, but kajal?specific protocols remain scarce. Given the ongoing clinical use of ghee?based eye therapies (Netra/Netra Basti) in Ayurveda clinics, pragmatic trials comparing traditional methods versus standardized, sterile, oil?based kajal systems could generate real?world evidence and safety data.(28)
Priority trials
6.3 Integration of traditional knowledge with modern science
Bridging Ayurveda and contemporary pharmaceutics requires mapping classical concepts (e.g., anjana, ghrita, dosha balance) to measurable pharmacological and materials?science parameters. Editorial and review scholarship emphasizes using phytochemical profiling, analytical characterization (GC?MS for oils, PAH screening for soot), nano?delivery, and bioavailability enhancement to modernize traditional formulations without losing cultural integrity. Methodological frameworks that combine Ayurvedic doctrine with GMP, risk assessment, and translational research can streamline regulatory dialogue and product development; integrative reviews advocate harmonized protocols, interdisciplinary teams, and knowledge translation from classical texts to lab and clinicIJCRT+1.
Action points
Carrier oils significantly influence the quality, therapeutic efficacy, and cosmetic performance of Vedic Kajal. Among castor oil, almond oil, and ghee, castor oil appears to be the most suitable carrier oil due to its superior viscosity, excellent pigment dispersion, prolonged retention, lubricating properties, and inherent antimicrobial activity. These characteristics enhance both the stability of the formulation and user comfort during application. Almond oil contributes valuable antioxidant and nourishing properties, supporting the health of the delicate periocular skin, while ghee provides traditional Ayurvedic benefits, including soothing and cooling effects on the eyes. However, compared with almond oil and ghee, castor oil offers a more balanced combination of pharmaceutical functionality and cosmetic performance. Therefore, based on available evidence, castor oil can be considered the preferred carrier oil for Vedic Kajal, although combining it with almond oil or ghee may further enhance the formulation by providing additional nutritional and therapeutic benefits.
REFERENCES
Nikita Gidde, Kalyani Gaikwad, Mahek Attar, Randhir Patil, Uzma Muttwali, Review on the Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Significance of Castor Oil, Almond Oil, and Ghee in Vedic Kajal, Int. J. of Pharm. Sci., 2026, Vol 4, Issue 6, 6002-6011. https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.20815387
10.5281/zenodo.20815387