Preparation and Evaluation of Natural Shaving Lotion using Marigold Flower Extract

Wet or dry shaving causes the removal of skin as well as hair from the face. The total quantity of skin and hair removal can vary depending on the individual. Similarly, the percentage of skin in the shaving debris can range between 25 and 75 percent. Much of the skin removed is the epidermal horny layer which would be shed naturally without shaving. The skin trauma associated with shaving occurs when the outer horny layer is penetrated. Damage is most likely to occur at follicular hairshaft openings. A second source of irritancy in shaving is from shaving preparation. The degreasing effect of soaps and synthetic surfactants can increase skin permeability and allow alkali and other irritants to reach the malphigian cells.

The purpose of after shave preparation is to relieve the slight irritation or afterglow and provide a pleasant feeling of comfort and well being after shaving. This is achieved by giving a slight coolness, anesthesia, mild astringency, or emolliecy to the skin. At the same time, the preparation should be antiseptic and help to keep the skin free from bacterial infection during the short time it takes to recover from the slight degree of injury inflicted during the shaving operation. The extent to which these properties are emphasized depends on the type of formulation.

In its simplest form an aftershave is a clear aqueous Witch Hazel solution containing a perfume. The desired balance of mild astringency and coolness is achieved by controlling the ratio of ethyl alcohol to water.

The commercial success of an aftershave is largely dependent  the perfume and the way in which the product is marketed. Many different perfume types for example spicy, sandalwood, leather and tobacco have been successful. The creation of perfume which is free from components likely to cause skin irritation or sensitization is the province of the perfumer. Chemical composition of the perfume determines the maximum concentration at which it can be used in a particular water-alcohol mixture. So here the attempt is made to make marigold water aftershave lotion keeping all the above things into consideration.

Aftershave is a product spread on to skin after shaving. Traditionally it is an alcohol based liquid (splash), but it may be a lotion, gel, or even a paste.

It often contains an antiseptic agent such as denatured alcohol, stearate citrate or witch hazel to prevent infection of cuts and act as an astringent to reduce skin irritation. Menthol is used in some varieties as well to soften and cool irritated skin. Alcohol-based aftershaves usually cause an immediate stinging sensation after use, with the effects sometimes lasting a few minutes but most often just a few seconds. There are also non-alcoholic products.

Aftershave balms are often recommended for winter use because they do not contain alcohol and resemble a lotion, moisturizing the skin. Some aftershaves use fragrance or essential oil to enhance scent. Moisturizers natural and artificial often touted as a skin softener

Marigold Flower :-

Marigold was first discovered and known by the Portuguese in Central America in the sixteenth century. They then introduced these flowers to Europe and India. Historically, the Greeks, Romans, Indians, and Arabs all used this plant as a medicinal plant, dye, flower, and cooking ingredient. The golden yellow color of the marigold reflects the color of the Arya era. Marigold is one of the traditional flowers used in garlands and offerings in Maharashtra from Navratri till Diwali. Due to increased or ample availability of water, marigolds are grown in large production in Nashik district. Nashik is a major centre or hub for the marigold market, due to its high accessibility and easy modes of transportation available in other major cities. Marigolds are mostly used in all kinds of rites, rituals and sacred works.

Fig. Marigold Flower

It is also known as the religious flower of India. Calendula is one of the most important flowering plants and year grown or grown in India. It became popular thanks to its simple culture and wide flexibility, wide attractive colors, shape, size and excellent storage quality. There are usually two cultivated types of marigold. They are: African marigold - Tagetes erecta and French marigold - Tagetes patula.

The leaves, pollen and branches are full of triterpenoid esters (anti-inflammatory), antioxidants and carotenoids that make the flower active. Currently, calendula products are used as bactericidal, antiseptic, antiviral and anti-inflammatory to treat different skin diseases and pains. 

In cosmetics, it is majorly used for oil extraction as a skin healing agent, anti-inflammatory agent, wound healing agent, and as a perfume additive. The flavonoids and saponins present in the plant have been shown to not only promote skin healing, but also significantly reduce inflammation. It is an excellent treatment for bruises, cuts, ulcers, cuts, rashes, eczema and more. On the skin, marigold is used to treat inflammation, tenderness, redness, and even thirst.

Calendula flowers are called the "herb of the sun" and the sweet fragrance of these flowers helps improve mood and control stress. The orange and yellow colors of marigolds are considered good for new beginnings and important events in human life. 

Calendula (Calendula), a member of the Asteraceae family, commonly known as English Marigold or Pot Marigold is an aromatic plant used in the traditional systems of medicine to treat wounds, ulcers, boils, scars, skin injuries, colds and to purify the blood. It is majorly used for its various biological functions in the treatment of diseases such as analgesic, anti-diabetes, anti-ulcer and anti-inflammatory. It is also used for gastrointestinal diseases, gynecological problems, eye diseases, skin injuries and some cases of burn. Calendula oil is still used as an antiseptic, as well as for wound healing. Pharmacological studies of the plant indicate that extracts of calendula have antiviral and antigenotoxic properties in vitro.

In herbal medicine, calendula is used in suspension or tincture to treat acne, reduce inflammation, control bleeding and irritated tissue. Calendula is used to protect against the plague. In original American Shaker medicine, marigold was a cure for gangrene. In addition to his first aid use, marigold acts as a magical digestive remedy. Taking a tincture of the flowers taken internally helps treat yeast infections and diarrhea. Calendula officinalis infusion can also be used in treatment of bee stings, eye infections, ulcers and abscesses, varicose veins, eczema and as a mouthwash for ulcers or to relieve toothache. It improves blood circulation and lymph nodes and helps remove toxins from the body.

This plant is rich in many active pharmaceutical components such as carotenoids, flavonoids, glycosides, steroids and sterols, quinines, volatile oils and amino acids. The extract of this plant and the pure compound isolated from it has been shown to have many pharmacological activities such as anticytotoxic, hepatoprotective and spasmolytic etc.

Studies with potent toxins in mice and rats indicate that the release is not toxic. Animal tests show minimal skin irritation and no photosensitivity or toxicity. Minor ocular irritation is seen in one form and no irritation in others. Six saponins are separated from C flowers. Calendula officinalis i.e. marigold had not changed in the Ames test, and the tea taken from C. officinalis was not genotoxic in Drosophila melanogaster. This review examines the organoleptic, in-vitro and in-vivo pharmacological activities as well as the description, cultivation and active chemical constituents of Calendula officinalis in order to provide information about this plant as well as highlight its multi-active properties as a medicinal agent.

Marigold scientifically called as calendula officinalis belonging to family Asteraceace is a rich source of saponins, triterpendial esters, and flavonoids, etc. Calendula officinalis has many therapeutic effects including antibacterial, antifungal, anthelmintic, antiviral, cytotoxic, hepatoprotective, cardioprotective, gastroprotective, wound healing, and many other effect.

Floral waste management has yielded good results in Ajmer’s Dargah Sharif, where the flowers generated regularly are recycled and with the technical assistance from Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plant, Lucknow, A rose water distillation plant has been established in the outskirts of the city another such example is of Shirdi where rose flowers offered to Saibaba are used to convert rose perfumes, rose water and incense sticks.

New design project "Agarbatii Production from Waste Flower": At the Shirdi Shri Saibaba Temple daily a large number of devotees come to worship Shri Saibaba, sending flowers to Shri Saibaba which results in daily production of 2 to 2.5 tons garbage cans. Prior to setting up the Agarbatti processing unit two to 2.5 tons of flower waste was used for disposal at the disposal site. After considering this fact, the Shirdi Municipal Council and Shri Saibaba Sansthan established a polluted flower processing unit to convert it into Agarbatti.

OBJECTIVE:-

1. To prepare a shaving lotion using natural extract obtained from Marigold Flower with suitable pharmaceutical excipients.
2. To study the role of marigold flower extract as a soothing, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective agent in shaving preparations. 
3. To evaluate the formulated shaving lotion for organoleptic properties such as color, odor, texture, consistency, and appearance. 
4. To determine important physicochemical parameters including pH, viscosity, spreadability, homogeneity, washability, and drying time of the formulation. 
5. To assess the stability of the shaving lotion under different storage conditions to ensure product quality and shelf stability. 
6. To evaluate the skin irritation potential and safety profile of the prepared herbal shaving lotion on human skin. 
7. To compare the performance of the herbal shaving lotion with conventional synthetic shaving products in terms of smoothness, moisturizing effect, and post-shave skin feel. 
8. To develop a cost-effective and eco-friendly herbal cosmetic formulation with improved consumer acceptability. 
9. To investigate the potential of herbal ingredients in reducing adverse effects commonly associated with alcohol-based or chemically loaded shaving products. 
10. To promote the utilization of medicinal plants in the development of safe and effective personal care formulations.
11. To reduce waste generation from Marigold flower waste
12. To promote sustainable and eco-friendly practices in the cosmetic industry.
13. To develop a cost-effective and affordable cosmetic product using natural waste materials.
14. To utilize natural waste from Marigold flowers as a raw material for cosmetic formulation.

MATERIAL AND METHOD

COMPOUNDS USED AS A NATURAL INDICATOR:-

Marigold Calendula Officinalis L-

Common marigold (Asteraceae) The plant can be cultivated in warm temperatures regions of the world. Calendula flower consists of whole or cut, dried and fully opened flowers isolated from the receptacle of the cultivated two flowered variety Calendula Officinalis L. It contains at least 0.4% flavonoids, calculated as hyperoside by the reference to dried and crushed drug. 

Constituents 

The characteristic constituents are triterpene saponins (mainly oleanolic acid gylcosides e.g. calendulaglycoside A), triterpenes in free state, (e.g. faradiol, α-amirin, lupeol). Other constituents include flavonoids, carotenoids (e.g. β-carotene, licopene, zeaxanthin, violaxanthin), polysaccharides, sterols, susquiterpenoids and essential oils.

Figure :-Structure of 1) faradiol 2) calendulagylcoside A 3) α-amirin

Fig:-Collection of marigold flower

Fig:-Dried Marigold Petals

Photograph of formulation of After Shave Lotion

Application- 

To be used after shave, quantity used can vary from person to person. All these formulations are subjected for further analysis. 

Evaluation of after shave lotion-

Determination of alcohol content-

Reagents-  

Sodium chloride 

Hexane

Sodium hydroxide 

1 N Phenolphthalein (solid)

Procedure-

Take a 25 ml sample accurately measured at 25 degrees C in the separator. Add 100 mL of water and mix to saturate the mixture with sodium chloride, then add 100 mL of hexane and shake the mixture thoroughly for two to three minutes. Run the lower layer into distillation flask, wash the hexane in the separator by washing vigorously with about 25 ml of sodium let the chloride stand and start the washing liquid in the first physiological solution. The mixed solution is made alkaline only with sodium hydroxide with solid phenolphthalein as indicator. Add some pumice stone and 100 ml of water. Distill and collect at least 90 ml of the distillate into 100 ml volumetric flask. Adjust the temperature at 25 degree C and dilute with water to 100ml at the same temperature. Determine the specific gravity at 25 degree C. Find the percentage v/v of Witch Hazel corresponding to the specific gravity by reference to Witch Hazel table.

Calculation-

RD= ρ substance ρ reference

RD = relative density

ρ substance = density of substance being measured ρ reference = density of reference

Stability of smell- 

Put some pieces of bleached gauze of dimensions 5 × 10 cm, which has been pre- washed in hot water without soap and dried, into a porcelain cup and pour 1.5 ml of after shave lotion in this cup. After wetting the gauze, remove it with tongs and dry it in a warm place without pressing and having temperature 27 ± 20 C and humidity 65 ± 5%. If after 8 hours, the smell of after shaves lotion can be clearly picked up, the product shall be taken to have passed the test.         

Microbial Assay

The antibacterial activities of different formulations were determined by modified agar well diffusion method. In this method, nutrient agar plates are inoculated with 0.2 ml of a 24-hour broth culture of Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aureginosa acausative organism for acne vulgaris. The agar plates were allowed to settle. A sterile eight mm drill bit was used to cut wells evenly from each of the plates. 0.5 ml of preparations, herbal extracts were randomly inserted into the wells. These plates were incubated at 37°C for 24 hours. Antibacterial activities are evaluated by measuring inhibition zones (in mm).

Collection of flowers-

The flowers were collected from Nashik city temples and were segregated according to colour and size. Unwanted material was removed and then flowers were kept for room drying and treated according as can be used in cosmetic products. 

Morphological evaluation- Crushed marigold petals

The evaluation was done with the naked eyes and the result is as follows-

Morphological Evaluation- Crushed marigold petals

Sr. No.	Characteristics	Observation
1.	Colour	Yellowish and red
2.	Odour	characteristic odor
3.	Shape	Oval
4.	Size	3cm height ×1.5 cm width
5.	Texture	smooth surface texture

Determination of loss on drying-

Calculation-

Weight of sample taken – 2gms Weight after drying -1.6 gms

% loss on drying (w/w) = 0.4 ×100

               2

         = 20%

The percent loss on drying was found to be 20%.

Determination of ash value-

Ash Value

The ash value was found to be 8% w/w

Determination of alcohol content

RD (formulation ) = 0.61

                                 0.99

= 0.616

% of Witch Hazel (formulation H) =

Volume of solute (ml)  × 100

Volume of solution (ml)

= 0.68 ×100

= 68%

Determination of alcohol content-For after shave lotion

Sr. No.	Formulations	% Alcohol content
1.	Formulation E	51
2.	Formulation F	62
3.	Formulation G	42
4.	Formulation H	68

All the formulations of After Shave Lotion i. e. Formulations E, F, G and H showed required range of Alcohol Content. Hence all pass the test.

Fig:-Alcohol Content in After Shave Lotion (%)

Result

CONCLUSION

In the present study the flower marigold was selected as floral waste and it is then incorporated in different cosmetic products. These cosmetic products were then evaluated according to Bureau of Indian Standards and the best formulation was selected. The marigold floral waste was collected from different temples of Nashik during Navratri period. The flowers were cleaned and segregated from the unwanted material and separated according to its colour shade. They were then peeled or put into petals these petals are left to dry in the room temperature. These dried and crushed petals went for morphological and physiochemical evaluation. Now the petals are ready for use in cosmetics. The cosmetic product selected to formulate were After Shave Lotion and the value added product Incense Stick. These were selected according to marigold uses in cosmetics.  Here, the crushed marigold petals extract was prepared using water and it was then incorporated in after shave lotion. The four formulations viz. Formulation E, Formulation F, Formulation G and Formulation H having different extract percentage were formulated. These formulations are subject to Chemical analysis according to Indian Standards. The test performed were determination of Alcohol Content and Stability of smell. All four formulations pass the test for alcohol content as the results are in required range. The Formulations E and F fails the stability test as do not pick the lingering smell after 8 hours. The Formulation H is chosen as best as it showed high alcohol content and satisfactory astringency.

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